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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Tasting Notes

Tastings: December 2018

31 December 2018

Champagne Moët & Chandon Impérial Bruttext
88PTS

Champagne Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut NV

Champagne, FranceMoët Imperial is said to be the most consumed Champers in the world. It is estimated that a bottle of this is popped every 1.3 seconds around the globe. With 20-30 percent reserves, this is a blend based on 30-40 percent pinot noir, followed by pinot meunier and a smaller portion of chardonnay, blended from more than 100 wines, matured 24 months and with 9 g/l dosage. Upfront and short ended, this is lightly toasted, with some lime pith, red apple, dough to a blunt, finish. Formulaic, to be sure, but when you consider the scale and consistency, it's admirable.Prices:
BC$77.99750ml
AB$71.10750ml
SK$85.99750ml
MB$87.99750ml
ON$80.55750ml
QC$77.15750ml
NS$77.99750ml
PEI$79.99750ml
NL$78.99750ml
Producer: Moet & Chandon
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29 December 2018

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
87PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2007

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe first Judge was made in 2007, and at just over a decade it’s barley hanging in there. It was never a fruit bomb, so the leather, soy, coffee, tobacco aromas predominate, and there is an underlying greenness that plagued several BC reds back then. The oak is fading but this one needs drinking now, and preferably with a rustic osso buco to cushion the dryness and tannins. Its best feature, and one that appears through the lineup, is a savoury note that supports the finish. Tasted at the winery on October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 34/33/33/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1500.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
90PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2008

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaLast tasted six years ago, bottle ageing has been kind to the 2008, and it has now cast aside its fairly strong, youthful oak over the last decade in bottle. It was definitely one of the more vibrant older vintages in the vertical, offering up a mix of cassis and leather with cedar and tobacco on the nose and a surprisingly elegant palate with fully mature, soft tannins. A mix of smoke and cranberries with a savoury black pepper finish suggest this may be at its peak. Tasted at the winery on October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 34/33/33/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1450Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
88PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2009

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaPerhaps the least likeable on the nose, ’09 with low fruit and more resiny notes reflects a cool vintage that required a lot of attention in the vineyard. Leaf-dropping and bunch thinning were mandatory. In the end, the crop was small, and at this point the best part of this wine is the texture, but unfortunately the wood (vanilla) is dominating. No need to wait if you are cellaring this one. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 42/32/26/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1630.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
90PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2012

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe '12 is a bit of conundrum; the vintage was excellent, but the cabernet content jumped up, leaving the wine with an herbaceous twinge. The palate is all about texture, texture, texture at this point, plus smoky, green olive, peppery, red/black fruit. It’s ageing gracefully and beginning to speak to its origins. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 28/34/38/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1550.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
91PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaAfter eight years, the 2010 remains slightly lifted on the nose, with aromatic peppery black cherry notes, and with the oak and vanilla fading into the background. It was a super cool year, but often these are the wines that can go the distance. It’s at a lovely stage now with plenty of dense mouth filling fruit, and only a vestige of tannin at the back end. It’s the first to show some mineral, chalky notes that always helps these big New World reds. Time has been kind to this wine and it still has a few years left to go. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 45/33/22/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1430.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
90PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2011

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaVintage five was another cool one, but a spectacular fall tuned this wine form ordinary to good. It was the old vines that benefitted the most. This was a fresher version of The Judge, with richer tannins suggesting it will really need more time to reach its peak. There is a bit of greens, trademark of many early Okanagan red blends that is much less common today. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 46/25/29/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1380.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
93PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2013

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2013 was the second in a series of remarkable vintages in BC, perhaps only surpassed now by the very fine 2016, and this was the best Judge of the day. Packed with ripe fruit, it's cleaner and darker than its predecessors, yet with a savoury elegance that holds it all in check. Still just coming into its own, this will live a full decade or more in bottle before it peaks. All three grapes were macerated separately in Italian Ganimedes fermenters to obviously fine effect. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 31/34/35/ merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1630.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
90PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2014

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2014 is all hedonistic with a mix of smoked meats, toasted oak, spice and black fruit on the nose that spills onto the palate with more floral, mineral black fruits. There is less complexity here and it finishes shorter but will appeal for its immediacy. You can drink this now through 2021. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 39/38/28.5/2/2 merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1700.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
BC$110.001500ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judgetext
91PTS

Hester Creek Limited Edition The Judge 2015

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2015 growing season was the warmest ever at Hester Creek. This wine is fully ripe and the texture long, soft and persistent. Despite the warm year the minerality and chalky notes noted in some earlier versions were poking through the ripe, plummy fruit. This needs time to express its full glory and rich New World style. Tasted October 16, 2018 at a ten-year vertical at the winery. Aged 24 months in a mix of 75/25 French/American oak. The blend is 29.5/38/28.5/2/2 merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. Growing Degree Days (GDD) 1764.Prices:
BC$45.00750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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28 December 2018

Luigi Bosca Gala 4text
89PTS

Luigi Bosca Gala 4 2016

Las Compuertas, Vistalba District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, ArgentinaFive percent malbec is added to this franc, destemmed and with a 5 to 7-day cold soak. Post ferment the franc is aged in new oak barrels for 14 months. Winemaker Pablo Cúneo is excited about the potential of cabernet franc in Argentina. This wine is a blend of Luján de Cuyo vineyards, over 90 years old, grown on sandy loam over stones at 1100 metres. It was a very cool year yielding delicate aromatics, intense juicy red fruits and bright acidity. Dry aged beef with rocket and parmesan sounds perfect to me.Prices:
AB$34.00750ml
Producer: Luigi Bosca
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Clos du Soleil Winemaker's Series Cabernet Franctext
89PTS

Clos du Soleil Winemaker's Series Cabernet Franc 2016

Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, CanadaOnly 68 cases of this estate cab franc were produced, its scarcity noted by the craft coloured embossed label. The estate is certified organic, and farmed with select biodynamic practices. After destemming the grapes were native fermented with 26 days on skins before being gently pressed into used French oak barrels where it remained for 15 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. There's a elegant lift to this gentle, fuller wine, one that feels slender for its 14 degree frame. Delicate purple florals scent plum, wild blueberry, thorns, dried thyme. Tannins are finely stone grained and long, running the tall length of the wine. Edges feel properly authentic, and will soften with a couple of years in bottle, as intended. A shier glimpse at naked cabernet franc.Prices:
BC$35.90750ml
Producer: Clos du Soleil Winery
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Free Form Cabernet Franctext
89PTS

Free Form Cabernet Franc 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFree Form is now a standalone label put out by the folks at Haywire Winery. The philosophy, strictly enforced, makes low, to no intervention winemaking, to merely express an unadulterated, authentic view of the Okanagan. This franc comes off Esther Vineyard, a certified organic site in Kaleden, just south of the city of Penticton on the west side of the valley. It was whole bunch pressed into three young, large (3600L) barrels and two amphoras where it fermented with native yeasts until the following spring. After eight months of skin contact, the wine was pressed off and blended into a concrete tank where it settled naturally before bottling unfined and unfiltered in August 2018. The result is an inviting, juicy, pure red with strong links to plums dressed in dried herbs and licorice with a dry, leafy, fresh finish. There’s a minimum of tannin here that should melt away by late 2019. A mushroom burger would be an excellent match.Prices:
BC$44.90750ml
Producer: Haywire by Okanagan Crush Pad
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Catena San Carlos Cabernet Franctext
91PTS

Catena San Carlos Cabernet Franc 2016

San Carlos, Central Region, Mendoza, ArgentinaThis 100 percent franc is grown at San Carlos, Mendoza at 1090m over sandy/loamy soil with thick calcareous layers and rounded rocks below. The alcohol is a modest 13.5 percent and you can sense the elegance beginning with its spicy, savoury red fruit with cedar and cassis in the finish. The attack is fresh, and that acidity carries through the finish together with some licorice and resin. It’s bottled after a year in French oak of which just over one third is new. This is a quiet, more Euro version of franc that is very food friendly. Grilled meats, mushroom dishes or cheese all work.Prices:
BC$25.90750ml
AB$22.05750ml
ON$20.95750ml
QC$20.95750ml
Producer: Bodega Catena Zapata
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Robert Mondavi Cabernet Franc Oakvilletext
90PTS

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Franc Oakville 2015

Oakville, Napa Valley, California, United StatesWe know Napa is the kingdom of cabernet, though we're primed to think sauvignon, over franc. This Oakville red is franc forward, with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon firming up the rear. The blend is quite seamless, even at this young stage, with stony black cherry, dark plum, graphite, charcoal dust, all wrapped with a generous, though well-handled frame of tuggy, fine-grained tannins. Destemmed into French oak, this spent 32 days in contact with skins across maceration and fermentation before heading to new French oak for MLF and aging for 20 months. Obviously very polished, though toothsome at this youthful state, best mitigated with a rare steak or fleshy roasted mushrooms. Or better yet, cellar this for a few years as was intended.Prices:
BC$59.99750ml
Producer: Robert Mondavi Winery
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Fort Berens Cabernet Franctext
87PTS

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc 2016

British Columbia, CanadaThe white label cabernet franc from Fort Berens is mostly Lillooet estate fruit topped up with 21 percent franc from the Similkameen. The complexity comes from blending two clones, 327 and 214, two vineyards, and ageing it in a mix of French and American oak. The nose is reduced upon opening under screw cap, so be sure to give it a swirl or two or 15 minutes of air in a decanter to let the fruit come through. The style is New World, soft and round with lower acidity and more mouth weight, the ripe fruit ending with a spicy finish. It’s ready to drink and would be best served with grilled meats.Prices:
BC$24.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reservetext
89PTS

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve 2016

British Columbia, CanadaThe cork finished, reserve tier of cabernet franc is 70 percent Lillooet estate vineyard mixed into 30 percent Blind Creek Vineyard fruit from the Similkameen Valley. This is a barrel selection (American and French), with an attack full-bodied with pure black cherry that runs long into a strawberry jam mid-palate all laced with a savoury desert sage dust. The tannins are richer than in the regular version, suggesting a bit more bottle age or a medium rare beef tenderloin. A good start.Prices:
BC$31.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Screaming Frenzy Cabernet Franctext
88PTS

Screaming Frenzy Cabernet Franc 2014

Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFragrant is the optimum description of this wine, clean and fresh under screw cap. The nose is reminiscent of many youthful New World reds encountered over the years. The attack is equally appealing with soft lush blueberry and mulberry, with lashes of sweet oak and coffee. I would wait for this wine to mature in bottle, say three years, but if this was on the counter at a kitchen party it would not have a chance of making it past the ten minute mark.Prices:
BC$27.99750ml
Producer: The Hatch
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The Hatch The Smokeshowtext
88PTS

The Hatch The Smokeshow 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Smoke Show refers to the 2015 wildfires that were a major issue in the Okanagan Valley, creating some very smoky conditions at exactly the wrong time. At The Hatch they liken the smoke effect to an added layer of intensity to the wine, with notes that remind of a peaty Scotch. Rather than fight it, the team chose to embrace the smoke, citing it to be an authentic reflection of their plot of land, and thus a climat of that time. It’s rich and dark with a healthy dose of tannins and a strong mix of lifted black cherry and fireplace ash. You can drink this now with a steak, grilled rare.Prices:
BC$23.99750ml
Producer: The Hatch
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Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franctext
90PTS

Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis wine is the polar opposite of Haywire or TH Wines but I can’t say enough about what is going on at Black Sage, where the wines are beginning to find their place. In a picture perfect 2016 vintage, a 14.5 percent alcohol in one of the warmest vineyard sites in the Okanagan is to be commended. The style is hedonistic, expressing all the aromas of cabernet franc with a softer edge than you get with cabernet sauvignon. There is plenty of sweet black fruit but the savoury sagebrush ameliorates the ripeness and the tannins are all in line. The finish is long and pleasing and will gather a following. Another two to four years in bottle would be useful, but grilled lamb or slow cooked mushroom dishes would be equally welcomed as a match.Prices:
BC$24.99750ml
Producer: Black Sage Vineyard
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TH Wines Cabernet Franctext
89PTS

TH Wines Cabernet Franc 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe trend to dial back active intervention at Okanagan wineries is in full force at TH (Tyler Harlton) Wines. This 2017 was picked early to keep the alcohol in check and to offer up more red than black fruit. This has a bit more of the Loire spice and thorny notes and much less of the lush black fruit we saw in the 2015 offering, one that dealt with a super warm growing season. It’s a touch reductive upon opening but that works its way out as the wine aerates in the decanter or your glass. Otherwise, expect a floral spice cover over fresh, red fruit and silky tannins. Lamb chops with rosemary baked potatoes would be a fine match.Prices:
BC$30.00750ml
Producer: TH Wines
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Culmina Family Estate Cabernet Franctext
89PTS

Culmina Family Estate Cabernet Franc 2014

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaLovely cedar scented and red fruited, with toasty cherry, sagebrush, hints of anise and ample cracked clove spicing. Acidity is bright and green peppercorn laced, keeping the body medium and sprightly, even at 14 degrees. Tight now in youth, this structural cab franc blends Loire with Bordeaux to equal the Golden Mile Bench. This came from their estate Arise Bench, and matured for 16 months in a combination of new (15 percent) and 1-year old French barrels.Prices:
BC$38.00750ml
Producer: Culmina Family Estate Winery
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Mission Hill Terroir Collection No. 32 Vista's Edge Cabernet Franctext
91PTS

Mission Hill Terroir Collection No. 32 Vista's Edge Cabernet Franc 2016

Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaOnly the top 3 percent of estate fruit makes it into the Terroir Series wines, a selection that best expresses the specific microclimate of special sites. This came from Osoyoos east and is clone 2014. Post-ferment, this spent 18 months in French oak (25 percent of which was new). Perfumed blueberry, plum, cherry and ample peppery notes filter through this long wine, one lined with firm, grippy, graphite sides. All are held up with a lovely raft of freshness, much more than 2015, keeping this bigger wine lively on the palate.Prices:
BC$50.00750ml
Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate
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Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reservetext
88PTS

Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve 2016

British Columbia, CanadaThis is a new release reserve tier of cabernet franc, mainly from Fort Berens' estate Lillooet vineyard, plus 30 percent from Blind Creek Vineyard in Similkameen Valley. This is a barrel selection that spent ten months in a mix of French and American oak. Full, soft, downy with cherry, strawberry jam, black raspberry, perfumed violets, dried thyme to a warming, lightly sticky finish, one that would benefit from roasted beef. A lot of a lot here in this young wine. Sometimes, less can be more.Prices:
BC$31.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Free Form Cabernet Franctext
88PTS

Free Form Cabernet Franc 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFree Form is Haywire's stand alone, low / no intervention line of wines, intended as an honest, unadulterated view of the Okanagan. This cabernet franc is from Esther Vineyard in Kaleden, was whole bunch pressed into three young, large (3600L) barrels and two amphorae where it fermented with native yeasts until the following spring. After eight months of skin contact the wine was pressed off and blended into concrete tank where it settled naturally prior to bottling unfined and unfiltered in August 2018. Juicy, youthful, and raw with downy plum, pitchy grip, and a sapid, green edge that rides to a snappy, balsamic finish. Tightly hugging that concrete texture, this fresh red is best taken with a chill.Prices:
BC$44.90750ml
Producer: Haywire by Okanagan Crush Pad
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27 December 2018

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Franc Oakvilletext
92PTS

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Franc Oakville 2015

Oakville, Napa Valley, California, United StatesLess and more is the story of Napa Valley cabernet franc = less tannin, less structure, more aromatics, more lush textures. This is extremely attractive on the nose and palate with a whack of juicy black fruit and only a tug of tannins from the addition of 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. The 2015 harvest was one of the earliest ever due to summer heatwaves that play into the hedonistic franc style. The clusters are gently destemmed into traditional French oak tanks for a cold soak and fermentation/maceration that totalled 32 days. The new wine ended up in new French oak to give it the finesse it deserves. Polished, serious and brooding this would work with roasted meats now. My advice is lay it away for a decade.Prices:
BC$59.99750ml
Producer: Robert Mondavi Winery
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Sunrock Vineyard Shiraztext
88PTS

Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaSunrock is a unique site: established in 1999, 180 acres on the Osoyoos Lake Bench, with vines tucked up against a granite rock face, facing Osoyoos Lake, and planted on loamy, silky sands. The shiraz is sourced from the top of the vineyard, absorbing the long sun hours, and transforming it into a rich, smooth red lined with tobacco, and filled with baked plum pudding, cherries and raspberry jam. Tannins are sticky and moderate, and the grape's characteristic peppercorns prominent. This aged in a mix of French and American oak for 14 months, all of which is felt, but not overwhelmed. A big wine style, well handled.Prices:
BC$27.49750ml
Producer: Arterra Wines
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Road 13 Jackpot Syrahtext
87PTS

Road 13 Jackpot Syrah 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaJackpot indicates the big time, and that's exactly what you get with this giant, rich red. Lush chocolate cherries, overripe plum inflate this big, plush palate, warmed with alcohol and framed by spiced oak and brown spices. Tannins are dubbed smooth and almost negligible. There's a swig of fernet and mint on the boozy (14.7 declared) back end that warms the throat. This uses 2.8 percent viognier, the skins of which were cofermented with part of the syrah. After thrice daily punch downs over ten days, the wine was pressed off to wood where it remained until bottling in August 2018.Prices:
BC$40.00750ml
Producer: Road 13
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Falernia Syrah Reservatext
90PTS

Falernia Syrah Reserva 2012

Valle del Elqui, ChileThis wine is a winner year in and year out. From its big, black liquorice, black pepper, poultry spice nose to its sweet, smoky, meaty, cherry flavours. The texture is soft and round, the tannins mild, and the finish a pleasant mix of more cherries with savoury chocolate, coffee grinds, black pepper and juicy acidity. Really a workhorse red for just about any meats coming off the barbecue. Fine value too.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
Producer: Viña Falernia
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Laughing Stock Vineyards Amphora Syrah +13/10text
91PTS

Laughing Stock Vineyards Amphora Syrah +13/10 2017

Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Laughing Stock Amphora release is syrah grown at Perfect Hedge Vineyard on the East Osoyoos Bench, tickled early by the rising sun. It has 9 percent viognier in the mix, fanning the aromatics and softening the palate. The syrah grapes go into two 500L terracotta containers as whole berries and are left to ferment undisturbed for eight months. The native ferment lasted over five weeks producing an extraordinarily supple palate, giving this giant mouth-filling red a chance to win you over. Post amphorae the contents are basket pressed and the final juice is run into bottle. There are no additives save for a small amount of sulphur before it's bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is a knockout on the palate with a strong blueberry undercurrent reminiscent of great Down Under shiraz, with a dusting of brown spicing and violets. Impressive to say the least, it will be interesting to see how it ages. You can drink it now though no problem. Roast duck comes to mind.Prices:
BC$49.99750ml
Producer: Laughing Stock Vineyards
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8th Generation Vineyard Syrahtext
87PTS

8th Generation Vineyard Syrah 2016

Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis opens with a savoury, smoky, deli meats nose mixed with peppercorns and a fresh floral underscore. This is cool Summerland syrah, offering up more meaty notes and earthy, savoury, roasted root veg before a slightly skinny, juicy finish at a very modest 12.5 percent alcohol. It spends year in French oak which is plenty given how light the fruit is. This is a fun syrah, ready to drink and not too overpowering, but one that could be amped up a bit with riper fruit. For Wine Club members only.Prices:
BC$23.49750ml
Producer: 8th Generation Vineyard
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Ex Nihilo XXX Single Vineyard Syrahtext
88PTS

Ex Nihilo XXX Single Vineyard Syrah 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe XXX comes in a heavyweight, oversized bottle that suggests heft from the front end to the back end. The fruit originates from a single vineyard site in Naramata, the sweet spot for growing temperatures in the Okanagan Valley and certainly one of the cooler syrah sites. The wine was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for 22 months and bottled with minimal filtration. The mocha and espresso aromas preview a sweet, round palate of black fruits, licorice, dried figs, and cinnamon. It fits the hedonistic Ex Nihilo style forsaking a bit of complexity for more immediate reward on the palate. Ready toi drink now or though 2020. Best with a leg of lamb or roasted meats.Prices:
BC$80.00750ml
Producer: Ex Nihilo Vineyards
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De Bortoli Woodfired Heathcote Shiraztext
88PTS

De Bortoli Woodfired Heathcote Shiraz 2017

Heathcote, Victoria, AustraliaThe Woodfired is all about a food match, such as pizza or chargrilled rib eye, and not all about the oak which is pleasantly handled here. The attack is fresh and lined with red and black peppered fruit, with moderate tannins and a fresh level of acidity. The palate is smooth, the textures soft and fleshy, with a smoky, plummy, licorice, resin finish. Impressive, easy-drinking, dry style that is ready to drink. Fine value.Prices:
BC$18.99750ml
Producer: De Bortoli Wines
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Mayer Yarra Valley Syrahtext
91PTS

Mayer Yarra Valley Syrah 2017

Yarra Valley, Victoria, AustraliaPlum, thistles, salt and cassis flow through this Yarra Valley syrah, scented with pine needles and finishing with a pop of bright acidity and a wash of fine pepper. Tannins are slight and furry, blurring into the vivid fruit. This was sourced from Bloody Hill Vineyard's broken sandstone and steep 200m elevation. Timo Mayer utilizes whole bunch and native ferment for his wines, and this spent 11 months in French hogsheads before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is an elegant, medium bodied (12.5 degrees), cool climate syrah, and a striker from Yarra.Prices:
BC$80.00750ml
Producer: Timo Mayer
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Luke Lambert Syrahtext
92PTS

Luke Lambert Syrah 2017

Yarra Valley, Victoria, AustraliaMassive cracked peppercorns course through the entire flow of this medium bodied, syrah from Yarra. Dusky blueberry, cassis, plum intermingled with shepherds pie meatiness and softly grippy, structural tannins frame the duck down palate. The finish is lingering, salty, moreish. This is sourced from one of the coolest areas of Yarra, the south-west sloping Tibooburra Vineyard, and has one of the most interesting soil cocktails of the region : black volcanic topsoil over yellow clay with a smattering of granite within. This was wild fermented, aged in neutral, very large format oak, and 80 percent whole bunch fermented, with the wine left unsulphured until just bottling, unfined and unfiltered. This wine grows with time, both in the glass, and in the bottle (if you can wait).Prices:
BC$60.00750ml
Producer: Luke Lambert
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Black Swift Vineyards The Long Road Syrahtext
89PTS

Black Swift Vineyards The Long Road Syrah 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThere’s better acidity and less chocolate up front in the 2015, giving Long Road a more serious demeanour in the glass. Look for black licorice, black pepper, a whiff of leather and deli meats with a super fresh finish. It will need some time in bottle for all the components to meld but it should be worth the three to five year wait. Grilled lamb or beef is in order for the moment. The wine spends 16 months in a 50/50 mix of new and older American oak. Long Road is a 100-acre vineyard at the northern extent of the Osoyoos Bench. It was planted in 1999 to clones 99 and 100 and is sustainably farmed at 3 tons to the acre.Prices:
BC$54.99750ml
Producer: The Hatch
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Jason Parkes Customs Crown + Thieves Broken Barrel Syrahtext
90PTS

Jason Parkes Customs Crown + Thieves Broken Barrel Syrah 2014

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe fruit comes off the warm East Osoyoos Saddle Ridge Vineyard, notable for its prime location on the Black Sage Bench near Black Hills and the dump. Look for rich, lifted, spicy, black fruit aromas. The entry is sweet-ish with intense blackberry and peppery notes akin to Barossa syrah. Expect a warm, rich, dense red with lifted blue fruit and a vanilla, American oak finish. Unlike its truly broken barrel predecessors, this wine was aged three years in new and used American oak barrels and puncheons before bottling.Prices:
BC$69.68750ml
Producer: The Hatch
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Black Sage Vineyard Shiraztext
88PTS

Black Sage Vineyard Shiraz 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaAnother tasty 2016; it seems this vintage can do no wrong. Totally ripe with sweet black fruit aromas and plenty of black pepper. The attack is similar with smooth, juicy blackberry/blueberry, dark floral notes and slightly dry tannins but with enough acidity to keep it vertical and vibrant. Very New World but this will have many fans especially given how easy it is to drink already. Grilled lamb chops would be a perfect match.Prices:
BC$28.89750ml
Producer: Black Sage Vineyard
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Black Hills Syrahtext
88PTS

Black Hills Syrah 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis year 2/3 of the fruit is coming from east Osoyoos, with the remainder estate. As we've come to recognize in this wine this is big with blue fruit, ripe plums and lavender-lined. Violets line the soft, plush mouthfeel, causing a bit of muddle around the sides at this youthful stage. That said, this has lovely freshness that emerges with air time. Best with meats to round out those sticky edges.Prices:
BC$39.90750ml
Producer: Black Hills Estate Winery
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Hester Creek Syrah Viogniertext
88PTS

Hester Creek Syrah Viognier 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaA fine improvement here, especially in texture and weight. The nose is fragrant, sporting floral and cracked pepper notes with more liquorice and less of those meaty notes. It has a certain softness that is becoming a part of the Hester Creek style, giving it some of the New World weight and heft. The attack is soft and supple and this one, under screw cap, is very easy to like. Expect a ripe, smoky, entry of black fruits and sweet, smoked berry with a smoky oaky undertone. You can drink this now, but I would wait a year or two. Barbecue chicken would be a fine match and so would lamb osso buco. A generous, easy-sipping style.Prices:
BC$28.95750ml
Producer: Hester Creek Estate Winery
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26 December 2018

Blomidon Crémant Méthode Traditionelletext
91PTS

Blomidon Crémant Méthode Traditionelle 2016

Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaThe Crémant is a cornerstone of the Blomidon portfolio, and the base from which the Blanc de Noirs, Blanc de Blancs, and Brut Reserve sprung. 2016 blends 61 seyval blanc, 24 l'acadie blanc and 15 chardonnay, with one year on the lees before bottling. Lovely, as ever, with searing, stony acidity tempered by green apple, pear skin, lemon, on a tight, bright palate, with a dosage of 8 g/l, which barely keeps pace with the natural Atlantic acidity. A chalkiness grips the lingering finish. Savoury, serious and smashable fizz.Prices:
NS$25.00750ml
Producer: Blomidon Estate Winery
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Gigglewatertext
87PTS

Gigglewater NV

Veneto, ItalyGigglewater speaks to a market I am unfamiliar with, although I recognize the wine. A pale straw yellow colour precedes this flowery, exuberantly fruity, light bubble. Apples lemon and fun mark the palate and not necessarily in that order. This Glera fizz is ready to party.Prices:
BC$16.99750ml
Producer: Cà di Rajo di Cecchetto Bortolo
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Luis Pato Baga Vinho Espumante Brutotext
89PTS

Luis Pato Baga Vinho Espumante Bruto NV

Bairrada, Northern Portugal, PortugalLuis Pato’s family has been producing wine since the 18th century, with his father João the first to bottle wine in Bairrada DOC after it was officially demarcated as an appellation. This is a dry (bruto) fizzy medium-rose rosé of baga, from chalky clay soils. This undergoes light pressure in a vacuum to obtain a light juice which is fermented in stainless before a second ferment in the bottle, and up to nine months on the lees. Plum, scented wild cassis, red apple on the bright, earthy palate, with piercing limey acidity, fine, light bubbles, a ripple of baga's raging tannins around the edges, and a twist of balsamic on the finish. This is a perfect food foil for tiny fried / salty bites. Deliciosa.Prices:
BC$20.00750ml
Producer: Luis Pato
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Champagne Gremillet Brut Selectiontext
89PTS

Champagne Gremillet Brut Selection NV

Champagne, FranceThis small grower champagne is coming off a 35ha property on the southern outskirts of the Aube. You can feel a bit of the south in the wine, pleasingly soft on the palate with pure but ripe fruit flavours you seldom encounter in Champagne. The blend is 70/30 pinot noir/chardonnay but the key to its style is the mix of 20 percent reserve wines from 4 or 5 vintages that spend a minimum of 22 months on lees. The style is elegant, the texture creamy, and the attack a mix of brioche, toast, almonds and ripe red apples. Delicious and ready to drink. Very fine value.Prices:
BC$70.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Gremillet
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Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut Méthode Classiquetext
89PTS

Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut Méthode Classique 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis wine has been consistently well made for some time and the combination of the bright 2016 vintage continues the string. This bubble is now razor sharp, with a wonderful freshness that runs from the front to the back of every sip. The mix is riesling, pinot blanc and chardonnay, a strange combination, yet it yields a bright green apple and lemon pith white, flecked with salty, lemon-soaked nuts. It’s fizz for your favourite sushi. Fine value.Prices:
BC$21.79750ml
Producer: Gray Monk Estate Winery
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Parés Baltà Blanca Cusine Gran Reserva Brut Naturetext
90PTS

Parés Baltà Blanca Cusine Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2011

Penedès, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), SpainCava Blanca Cusiné is a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir where the chardonnay is fermented in stainless steel and the pinot noir in barrel. The colour is medium yellow, and the attack is gentle, sporting rich, creamy textures with oatmeal and almonds signalling a bit of age. The palate is similarly gentle with apples, hazelnuts and cream flecked with orange. A delicious sparkling that is completely ready to drink. Think butter and seafood.Prices:
BC$55.90750ml
AB$43.99750ml
QC$36.00750ml
MB$55.95750ml
Producer: Parés Baltà
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21 December 2018

Tom Gore Cabernet Sauvignontext
87PTS

Tom Gore Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, United StatesThis massive, brooding wine benefits from some age, here the four years since harvest softening the heavy black fruit as well as some of those big toasted oak tannins to leave a full, knit and smoothed red. Tobacco, mocha, thick cassis jam fills the very ripe palate, leaving a stickiness on the finish that is well absorbed by beef tenderloin.Prices:
Producer: Tom Gore Winery
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Tom Gore Cabernet Sauvignontext
84PTS

Tom Gore Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

California, United StatesTom Gore Vineyards was founded in 2014 by grape grower Tom Gore. This carries sweet, over-ripened and sunned black and red fruit along a very cushy palate, one strangely lavendar and amply tannic. Dark brown spicing and oak rule the mid, while mocha closes out the finish of this 13.5 degree declared (!) giant wine.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
Producer: Tom Gore Winery
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14 December 2018

Chateau Arnauld Haut-Médoctext
88PTS

Chateau Arnauld Haut-Médoc 2016

Haut-Médoc, Médoc, Bordeaux, FranceBlack cherry, blackberry, leather fills the juicy core of this humble Haut-Médoc, a blend of 57/43 cabernet sauvignon / merlot. Medicinal cherry leather plays a strong role, as do a high amount of grippy / furry tannins that prop up the fruit, the latter a result of 18 months in new French oak. A wine that welcomes roast beef tenderloin. This wine comes from a 10-acre estate that is run by the same team as the larger Château Larose Trintaudon, a key to its quality.Prices:
ON$65.00750ml
Producer: Château Arnauld
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LaStella Espressivotext
92PTS

LaStella Espressivo 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis is the second vintage of this Tuscan-inspired wine, which in 2015 turned into 55 cab franc, 20 cab sauv, 20 merlot, 5 sangiovese, all 17 months in French and Slavonian oak barrel. Savoury olives, brambled thorns, espresso texturing wild blackberry, black cherry across a structured, very textural palate. Looking forward to watching this wine develop over the years to come, though hard not to drink it now. Well done.Prices:
BC$39.99750ml
Producer: LaStella
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11 December 2018

Château de Panigon Cru Bourgeois Médoctext
88PTS

Château de Panigon Cru Bourgeois Médoc 2016

Bordeaux, FranceChateau de Panigon began in 1868, and has made wine continually until today. This blend of 50 merlot, 45 cabernet sauvignon, 5 petit verdot comes from gravels and clay, vinified in both stainless and barrel, and ages up to 18 months before blend and bottle. Grippy and assertive, with smoked berries, cedar, medicinal clove, potent leather on a firm palate. Ripe and structural, this is best served up with Sunday roast beef dinner.Prices:
QC$24.00750ml
Producer: Château de Panigon
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Château Argadens Bordeaux Supérieurtext
88PTS

Château Argadens Bordeaux Supérieur 2014

Bordeaux, FranceParts of Chateau Argadens date back to the 12th century, so when the Sichel family purchased the property in 2002, they underwent extensive renovations and investment to highlight and preserve the 45ha under vine, almost entirely red. Quite dense and firm on the graphite-lined palate, but tight in its framework. Much energy underneath the drying, dusty tannins. Requires beef to mitigate. 63 percent merlot, 32 sauvignon, 5 franc. No herbicedes, not pesticides used, thisPrices:
BC$21.99750ml
Producer: Famille Sichel
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Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Rougetext
86PTS

Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Rouge 2017

Cotes de Gascogne, Sud-Ouest, FranceReductive swung red, this is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, tannat, syrah, malbec and pinot noir, tight and stainless fresh, with soft tannins framing cherry, dark raspberry and black plum. This requires airtime to blow off some of the bottle stink. Bitter dark cocoa espresso on the snappy finish.Prices:
BC$17.00750ml
Producer: Domaine de Pellehaut
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Beringer Quantum Red Blendtext
90PTS

Beringer Quantum Red Blend 2014

Napa Valley, California, United StatesHalf of the 2014 Quantum fruit comes off Howell Mountain, with the balance from vineyard sites down on the valley floor. The blend is 74 percent cabernet sauvignon, 12 percent merlot, 7 percent cabernet franc, 5 petite sirah, 2 percent malbec from what many have called a dream vintage. I notice the wine is drier and firmer this year, and much more serious. The colour is opaque, and the nose a mix of classic black fruits, tobacco and dried leaf. The balance and textures are already in sync, but there is some tannin to disperse. Best with grilled meats at this point but should aged well through 2022.Prices:
BC$71.99750ml
AB$70.00750ml
ON$79.95750ml
NS$68.00750ml
MB$70.00750ml
Producer: Beringer Napa Valley Vineyards
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Clos du Soleil Bétan Merlot Cabernet Franctext
89PTS

Clos du Soleil Bétan Merlot Cabernet Franc 2016

Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBéton is a brand new small lot release, and the result of experimenting with concrete fermentation on red Bordeaux varieties. This blend of single vineyard merlot and cabernet franc was destemmed, lightly crushed into concrete tanks to native ferment on skins for 23 days prior to basket pressing into tank, where it settled, finished ferment, and clarified naturally. At that point, the wine was racked back into the original concrete tank where it remained until bottling. Wild blackcurrant, pencil lead, sapid thorns and a lick of mint is cloaked with ample dusty tannins and riding a swell of juicy acidity right to the sticky finish. I appreciate the authenticity of this wine, less polished and more naked than Clos du Soleil's classic range, and a welcome addition to the family.Prices:
BC$60.00750ml
Producer: Clos du Soleil Winery
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Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve Redtext
91PTS

Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve Red 2014

Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe estate wines, noted by their white label, are seen as the pinnacle of their portfolio, and reflective of their Keremeos estate vineyards. The 2014 Estate Reserve is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc, malbec, aged for 18 months in French oak. You definitely feel the 45 percent merlot in the plush, velveteen plum, with blackberry compote, violet waves, cedar spicing and anise dusted, warming finish. Tannins are dusky, tuggy, but appropriate for the heft of the fruit, and support to the sweetly perfumed plum that lingers on the finish. More chisled acidity would take this to the next level, though this is drinking very well right now.Prices:
BC$60.00750ml
Producer: Clos du Soleil Winery
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10 December 2018

Martin's Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard Rieslingtext
92PTS

Martin's Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard Riesling 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFritzi's Vineyard, named for owner Anthony von Mandl's 101-year-old mother, is a small vineyard at the base of West Kelowna's Mt. Boucherie, also the home site of Mission Hill. The riesling from Fritzi's, clos 21B and planted in 1999, is the first parcel picked by Martin's Lane winemaker Shane Munn every year. Forty percent of this was fermented in stück (1200L barrels) with nine months elevage on lees, and sees minimal sulphur. Textural, savoury and expansive on the bold, 14 degree palate, with flicks of brown butter and a slight grip around the side, finishing with a lick of flintiness. This harmonious wine is not about the fruit, but all about the texture and site. Serious wine, and an age worthy one. 8.4 TA, 2.79 pH.Prices:
BC$75.00750ml
Producer: Martin's Lane Winery
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Martin's Lane Simes Vineyard Rieslingtext
90PTS

Martin's Lane Simes Vineyard Riesling 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaSimes Vineyard is a steep, north-facing site in East Kelowna, based on granite soils. It is the first riesling release from the site, all clone 49, native fermented and with nine months on the lees. Unlike the savoury and textural Fritzi's Riesling, this is all about buzzy, tight fruit: cool perfumed pear, lime pith, green apple, lemon verbena and a nimble aromatic lift. Lovely now in youth.Prices:
BC$55.00750ml
Producer: Martin's Lane Winery
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09 December 2018

Champagne Deutz Brut Classictext
0PTS

Champagne Deutz Brut Classic NV

Champagne, FranceCorked try another one.Prices:
BC$75.00750ml
AB$65.00750ml
QC$60.99750ml
NS$65.00750ml
NB$65.90750ml
Producer: Champagne Deutz
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Champagne J-M Sélèque Solessence Rosétext
91PTS

Champagne J-M Sélèque Solessence Rosé NV

Champagne, FranceSélèque began in 1965, when Henri Sélèque planted his first plots of vines with the help of his father-in-law, Jean Bagnost, president of the Pierry wine cooperative. Henri's son Richard moved the winery into the modern era, and since 2008 third gen Jean-Marc oversees the estate, based in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay. Since Jean-Marc arrived, no herbicides have been used at the estate. The Rosé blends 45% chardonnay, 40% meunier and 15% pinot noir, from seven villages. The majority of the wine is fermented in stainless with full MLF, though 10 percent is fermented in oak barrels and without MLF. For the rosé, they add 10 percent pinot meunier (infused after two days with skins) as well as five percent Coteaux Champenois sourced from Les Gayères. The 40 percent reserve wines are stored in a perpetual reserve (mix of tanks and barrels) that dates back to 2000.Prices:
BC$76.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Jean Marc Sélèque
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Champagne J-M Sélèque Solessence Extra Bruttext
90PTS

Champagne J-M Sélèque Solessence Extra Brut NV

Champagne, FranceSélèque began in 1965, when Henri Sélèque planted his first plots of vines with the help of his father-in-law, Jean Bagnost, president of the Pierry wine cooperative. Henri's son Richard moved the winery into the modern era, and since 2008 third gen Jean-Marc oversees the estate, based in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay. Since Jean-Marc arrived, no herbicides have been used at the estate. For this wine, the grower house sources fruit from seven villages across the Marne Valley and the Côte des Blancs, namely Pierry, Moussy, Epernay, Mardeuil, Dizy, Boursault and Vertus, half of which are farmed biodynamically. With minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery, this is a blend of 50/40/10 chardonnay/pinot meunier/pinot noir, based on the 2016 vintage. The majority sees stainless and full MLF, though ten percent is fermented in oak and sees no MLF. The 30 percent reserve wines are stored in large tanks and wood casks as a perpetual reserve dating back to 2000. The whole spends 18 months on the lees before a dosage of 3 g/l and was bottled without fining or filtration. Yellow, red apples, melon, tropical fruit fill out a full, fleshy palate. This opens and carries a punch of fruit and swing of weight to a snappy finish.Prices:
ON$84.00750ml
Producer: Champagne R et JM Sélèque
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Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Rosé Extra Bruttext
92PTS

Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Rosé Extra Brut NV

Champagne, FranceChampagne Lelarge-Pugeot is an eighth-generation winery in the 1er cru village of Vrigny, in the northern Val de Reims, where the family has been growing since 1799 and producing since 1930. They moved to organics in 1985 and became certified biodynamic in 2017. They own 8.7 ha of vineyards carved into 42 distinct parcels, all on calcareous clay loam and sand. This pinot noir rosé is from 30-year-old vines, fermented and rested for six months in a tank and blended with 7 percent Coteaux Champensois 2011 before being bottled in April 2012 before three years en tirage. This was disgorged in July 2016. The medium pink-hued fizz is imbued with strawberry, wild cherry, raspberry brioche and red/pink florals that dart around the mouth buoyed by brisk acidity. There's a gentle padding on the palate, resulting from three years on the lees. An offset dosage of less than five g/l is necessary to balance the high acidity. As with all of the Lelarge Pugeot wines, a riff of meringue lingers on the finish. Impressive.Prices:
BC$75.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Lelarge Pugeot
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Pol Roger Brut Reservetext
91PTS

Pol Roger Brut Reserve NV

Champagne, FranceElegance and refinement has always been the hallmark of this multi-vintage Champagne, made with equal parts pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay from 30 different crus. The key is 25 percent reserve wines added to the mix to bring complexity and the ability to balance off the vagaries of any single growing year. The wine spends four years in the cellars. Inviting warm, brioche notes, hazelnuts and red apples and tangerine spill across its delicate, chalky palate. A favourite for the price with this writer. Available in 3, 6, 9, and 12-litre bottles.Prices:
BC$73.99750ml
ON$66.00750ml
QC$63.00750ml
NF$72.00750ml
NB$65.00750ml
BC$39.99375ml
NS$67.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Pol Roger
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Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Les Meuniers de Clemencetext
92PTS

Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Les Meuniers de Clemence NV

Champagne, FranceChampagne Lelarge-Pugeot is an eighth generation winery in the 1er cru village of Vrigny, where the family has been growing since 1799, and producing since 1930. They moved to organics in 1985, and became certified biodynamic in 2017. They own 8.7 ha of vineyards, which are carved into 42 distinct parcels, all on calcareous, clay loam and sand. It's rare to find a 100 percent meunier champagne, and even rarer to find an entirely drinkable, interesting one. AND even more improbable is to find is one that is organic / biodynamic / family owned and operated. Lovely red fruit driven wine, though more suggestive, rather than overtly so. Wild cherries, red currant, white peach, wafts of cherry blossoms, all riveted by green apple acidity, bound by raspy sides, and cushioned comfortably by a thin cushion of lees. This skips along the palate with an easy energy, finishing on a pillow of salted meringue. Wow. Highly unique, highly impressive.Prices:
BC$95.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Lelarge Pugeot
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Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Tradition Extra Bruttext
92PTS

Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Tradition Extra Brut NV

Champagne, FranceChampagne Lelarge-Pugeot is an eighth-generation winery in the 1er cru village of Vrigny, where the family has been growing since 1799 and producing since 1930. They moved to organics in 1985 and became certified biodynamic in 2017. They own 8.7 ha of vineyards carved into 42 distinct parcels, all on calcareous, clay loam and sand. The vines used for this rendition of Tradition are an extra brut blend of 65% meunier, 20% pinot noir and 15 chardonnay, averaging 25 years. This bottle was based on the 2011 vintage with 30 percent reserve wines, spent six months in the tank (fermented naturally with their pied de cuve), underwent natural MLF, before 3-4 years on lees in bottle and disgorgement in March 2016, with a dosage of 5 g/l. Red apple, orange, white cherry, and apricot scone are lifted with grapefruit pithy acidity and a white tea grip to a bright, snappy, lingering finish. There's a pad of lightly earthy lees to authenticate and ground the medium-bodied palate, one still sharpened by the extra brut dosing. It is impressive, especially considering the biodynamic nature of such a challenging fringe area.Prices:
BC$70.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Lelarge Pugeot
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Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Nature et Non Dosétext
91PTS

Champagne Lelarge Pugeot Nature et Non Dosé NV

Montagne de Reims, Champagne, FranceChampagne Lelarge-Pugeot is an eighth generation winery in the 1er cru village of Vrigny, where the family has been growing since 1799, and producing since 1930. They moved to organics in 1985, and became certified biodynamic in 2017. They own 8.7 ha of vineyards, which are carved into 42 distinct parcels, all on calcareous, clay loam and sand. As the name implies, Nature is a natural wine, with zero dosage and no sulphur added. The 50 percent meunier, 25 each pinot noir / chardonnay is from vines 35 years old, and taken from the 2014 harvest. After a six month ferment and rest split equally between tank and barrel, this heads to bottle where it spends 16 months on the lees. It was disgorged in November 2016. This is a tight and chiseled wine, led by green apple and lemon, and followed by red apple and white cherry. There's a riffing, grippy jolt of acidity that vibrates along the length of this slender form, finishing with a satisfying, salty snap. Impressive.Prices:
BC$100.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Lelarge Pugeot
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Champagne Marie-Courtin Condordancetext
91PTS

Champagne Marie-Courtin Condordance 2011

Champagne, FranceDominique Moreau created the Cote des Bar estate, named for her grandmother, in 2005 with the sole goal to produce single-vineyard, single variety, single vintage Champagnes from biodynamically-grown grapes. These vines are 35-40 years in age from a single, 2.5 hectares parcel located in Polisot, my bottle harvested in 2011 and disgorged in 2014. This was native fermented (for both ferments) in tank before resting on the lees for three years before being bottled without dosage or sulphur. This is one of, if not the only (?) sans souffe (meaning please) Champagne available. Burnished and textural, with wild mushroom, sweet/savoury dough, lees, bitter bergamot kisses and fine smoked salts on the textural finish. There's a lovely controlled wildness and power here which is alluring and interesting, inviting glass after glass. Impressive and memorable bottle.Prices:
BC$110.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Marie-Courtin
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Vouette & Sorbée Blanc d'Argile Extra Bruttext
87PTS

Vouette & Sorbée Blanc d'Argile Extra Brut NV

Champagne, FranceThe Demeter-certified Vouette & Sorbée has made an impact in a very short amount of time. The Aube-based grower house has only been releasing their own wines since 2001; Founder Bertrand Gautherot used to sell grapes to other producers, including Anselme Selosse. He farms 5 ha of Kimmeridgian marls and Portlandia limestones in the village of Buxières-sur-Arce. This is near as natural as Champagne gets, native fermented, sulphur-free until bottling, no dosage... The wines aren't vintage dated since they only spend 20 months on the lees (vs the minimum 36 months required by the AOC for vintage declaration), though he lists the base wine year and disgorgement date on the label. My bottle of chardonnay was based on 2010, and disgorged December 2012. Earthy, meadow grass, cider apples are gripped with grapefruit pithiness and a swing of orange balsamic. Acidity is racy, pulsing this forward to a buzzy finish. Sharp, raw and real. If you're looking for an earthy, natural Champagne, here you go. Bottle variation is a big thing with this producer, and this one wasn't shining.Prices:
BC$115.00750ml
Producer: Vouette & Sorbée
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Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Bruttext
93PTS

Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Brut NV

Champagne, FranceThis is sourced from the five grand cru vineyards of the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger, and is a blend of two years. 33-40 percent reserve wines, 4-5 years on lees, and a dosage of 8 g/l provides a very cushioned base to support the layers of shortbread, lemon sherbet, green apple, pear, vanilla wafer, white blossom, rafted by a fine, pixellated acidity that finishes firmly and with ample chalkiness. In 1818, Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon were married, and founded Maison Billcart-Salmon, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, where they were based.Prices:
BC$133.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Billecart-Salmon
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Champagne Henriot Rosétext
89PTS

Champagne Henriot Rosé NV

Champagne, FranceFounded in 1808, Henriot is one of the few remaining independent family houses with over two hundred years of history in the region. This is entirely from Montagne de Reims, a cepage of 50/40/10 pinot noir/chardonnay/pinot meunier, with 35 percent reserve wines (inducing a small amount of their perpetual reserve) and three years on lees. Lightly toasted brioche beds the cherry, strawberry, red currant fruits, infiltrated with hearty black peppery spice and tightened with a pink grapefruit tension and black tea rinse. 8-9 g/l dosage.Prices:
BC$90.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Henriot
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Champagne Moutard Pere et Fils Brut Grande Cuvéetext
89PTS

Champagne Moutard Pere et Fils Brut Grande Cuvée NV

Champagne, FranceThis blanc de noirs (100 percent pinot noir) was entirely sourced from the clay-limestone soils of the Côte des Bar and the villages of Buxeuil and Polisy. There's a lovely tension between tight lemon peel and rich cherry brioche which welcomes investigation, and a second glass. Three years on the lees, and a 10 g/l dosage reveals itself in the proliferation of roasted almonds and hazelnuts, bread dough, toasty ginger spice, all nipped tight with prickling acidity. Fantastic price for a Champagne ready to match grilled / spiced chicken or roasted winter squash. The Moutard family have been making wine since the seventeenth century, and this is their flagship wine.Prices:
BC$47.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Moutarde Pere et Fils
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Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Bruttext
92PTS

Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut NV

Champagne, FranceChampagne Jacquesson was founded in 1798 by Memmi Jacquesson, and was a house favourited by Napoleon, who bestowed it a gold medal for its cellars. The winery has been innovative from the beginning, instituting the radical notion of training vines in rows with the collaboration of Dr. Guyot, and patenting the muselet, the wire cage that holds the cork in place. The real innovation, however, began in 1978, when the Chiquet family purchased the house, and brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent spend the next ten years campaigning to their father to do something radically different, from the structure of the company to vineyard management. In 2000 they took a bigger risk and announced the 700 series. This numbered, vintage-based cuvée began with ‘728’, represented by the 2000 vintage. Rather than making a consistent NV wine every year, they aim to make the best possible blend each vintage. Each year, a new-subsequently numbered-cuvée is released, meaning this current release 741 is from 2013, harvested from Aÿ, Dizy, Hautvillers, Avize and Oiry, along with reserve wines. The cepage is 52 chardonnay 22 pinot meunier and 21 pinot noir, vinifiied and rested on lees in oak foudres before bottle, and disgorged with 2.5 g/l with no filtration or fining in November 2017. Earthy and savoury up front, with burnished lemon, yellow apple, hazelnuts, red currant, kisses of quince and ample filigreed acidity that streaks along the medium+ palate, one bound by pink grapefruit pith. Rock salt lingers on the finish. Lovely intensity and depth now, and one that will only build with cellaring.Prices:
BC$100.00750ml
AB$80.00750ml
NS$81.50750ml
Producer: Champagne Jacquesson
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Champagne Moêt & Chandon Grand Vintagetext
91PTS

Champagne Moêt & Chandon Grand Vintage 2012

Champagne, FranceThe 2012 Grand Reserve is the 74th release of the vintage wine, one that the winery has been producing since 1842. This year's blend is 41 Chardonnay, 26 Pinot Meunier and 33 Pinot Noir, with a dosage of 5 g/l. The red fruits are centre stage, with a deep bed of cherry, raspberry brioche and ample spice cut with a stream of acidity. Doughy and cushy, this is a luxurious styled Champagne for richer food pairings.Prices:
BC$93.99750ml
QC$89.25750ml
ON$84.00750ml
AB$87.99750ml
MB$87.98750ml
Producer: Moet & Chandon
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Champagne Castelnau Réservetext
88PTS

Champagne Castelnau Réserve NV

Champagne, FranceThis reserve from Castelnau spent six years on the lees, and is a blend of 40 chardonnay and 20 percent each pinot meunier and pinot noir. This has twenty percent reserve wines and a dosage of eight grams / litre. This is produced by the cooperative CRVC, and is a very good example. Dough, cream, red apple, over a doughy bed of lees. Acidity is lifted to carry the heft.Prices:
BC$62.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Castelnau
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Champagne Moêt & Chandon Grand Vintagetext
91PTS

Champagne Moêt & Chandon Grand Vintage 2009

Champagne, FranceAfter a run of chardonnay-led vintages, pinot noir stole back the spotlight in 2009, filling half the blend, while chardonnay steps back to 36 percent and pinot noir takes the remainder. Though Moêt vintage has been made since 1842, this is only the 73rd time a vintage has been declared and released. Vintage Moêt represents only 5 percent of the house's overall production. As with all the recent vintages, this aged seven years in the cellars, followed by a six month settling after disgorgement and 5 g/l dosage, prior to release in 2017. Unlike the slender/sharper 2006 and 2008, this has a breadth to the palate reflective of 2009, with ripe pear, vanilla brioche, baked apple and orange/ginger spicing on the finish.Prices:
BC$82.99750ml
QC$89.25750ml
ON$84.00750ml
AB$87.99750ml
MB$87.98750ml
Producer: Moet & Chandon
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Champagne Ruinart R de Ruinart Bruttext
91PTS

Champagne Ruinart R de Ruinart Brut NV

Champagne, FranceIf you know champagne, you know Ruinart. The house was founded in 1729 by Nicolas Ruinart in the city of Reims, the year after Louis XV gave his consent for sparkling wines to be shipped in baskets about Europe. That helped Ruinart, today the oldest House in Champagne. Ruinart’s rotund bottle (always a hit with guests) contains 40 percent chardonnay and 60 percent pinot noir with 40 percent reserve wine from the previous two years. I love the mix of finesse and complexity from a wine that goes through full malolactic, yet remains fresh and vibrant on the tongue. The fruit is pristine with green apple, lemon pith and a lovely chalky toasty affair that wraps up the finish. As it is most years, persistent and elegant.Prices:
BC$76.99750ml
QC$81.00750ml
AB$78.99750ml
MB$82.43750ml
Producer: Ruinart Champagne
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Champagne Veuve Clicquot Rosé Bruttext
91PTS

Champagne Veuve Clicquot Rosé Brut NV

Champagne, FranceIt’s sometimes hard to imagine a wine with 50 to 60 moving parts, but this rosé comes from that number of crus, and just to keep it VC-like, the blend is more or less the same as its Yellow Label cousin at 44 to 48 percent pinot noir, 13 to 18 percent meunier and 25 to 29 percent chardonnay. Now get ready for more: there is 25 to 40 percent reserve wines from up to five harvests to keep the VC house style in place. La Cuvée Rosé, one of the bestselling rosé champagnes in the world, and one of the few still made using the saignée method, completes the blend with 12 percent of red wine using red grapes specially raised and selected to give a marvellous balance and colour to this wine. Again, bright fresh red fruits with a strong citrus, leesy, biscuit undertone with swirls of tea, cherries and strawberries. This rosé is all about food and we loved it with tuna sashimi.Prices:
BC$91.99750ml
AB$85.99750ml
ON$89.80750ml
QC$87.50750ml
NS$85.00750ml
SK$83.99750ml
MB$90.76750ml
NL$98.48750ml
Producer: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin
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Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut Extra Oldtext
91PTS

Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut Extra Old NV

Champagne, FranceTasted again a year and a half after this was first released, and this is coming along very nicely in the bottle. Extra Brut Extra Old is a blend of reserve years, namely the 1988, 1996, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages, and the mix is 47 pinot noir, 27 percent chardonnay and 26 pinot meunier. This spent three years on lees in vats (5 percent oak), before being bottled November 2013 and spending an additional three years on the lees en tirage. This was disgorged June 2016, at a 3 g/l dosage. Think of this as classic Veuve x 10. In addition to the double aging (3x3), this is more floral perfume, more biscuity brioche, more broad shouldered, more richly spiced with candied ginger. Yellow apple, pear, toast fills in the gaps in between, all sharpened with a wallop of acidity. This is powerful, almost assertive in the mouth, and much better suited to pairing with foods (meat pastries, quail, duck) than solo sipping. A special treat for fans of the classic.Prices:
BC$105.99750ml
AB$117.99750ml
ON$123.00750ml
QC$0.00750ml
Producer: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin
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Champagne Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperialtext
90PTS

Champagne Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperial NV

Champagne, FranceBright fruitiness is the Moët goal, and they have it in this 40/50 percent pinot noir (with 10 percent red wine), 30/40 pinot meunier and 10/20 percent chardonnay that contains 20/30 selected reserve wines. The colour is peachy orange, the attack soft and round with a nine g/l dosage. Three years on lees provides a creamy, toasty structure that effortlessly holds the explosive raspberry, cherry, and cranberry with a citrus undercurrent. The freshness and acidity seal the deal, along with flecks of brown spice. Built for food, you could start with grilled salmon, but don't be afraid to serve this with grilled lamb or pork.Prices:
BC$93.99750ml
AB$99.99750ml
MB$104.99750ml
ON$99.65750ml
QC$95.50750ml
Producer: Moet & Chandon
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Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra Bruttext
92PTS

Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra Brut NV

Champagne, FranceMaison Bruno Paillard is relatively new in Champagne, the house founded in 1981 by Bruno Paillard. From the beginning, their strategy has been on purchasing vineyard land. They now have 90+ parcels in 14 crus, covering the majority of their needs. My bottle of Première Cuvée Brut is sourced from 30 vineyards, was disgorged in December 2019, and was a blend of 25 vintages since 1985, with 50 percent reserves. This is a blend of 45/33/22 pinot noir / chardonnay / pinot meunier, 20 percent of which was barrel fermented, with the cepage spending 36 months sur lie, plus six more months in bottle, and with a dosage under 6 g/l (extra brut). Meringue, marshmallow, fine patisserie on a tight, yet cushioned palate. Finely textured with chalky dust, this feels every inch a millefuille, with layers of pastry layered with cherry vanilla cream and kissed with lemon essence, raspberry blossom and white florals. There's a bitter white cherry skin that rasps on the finish. Many layers of complexity here. In 1983, Bruno Paillard became the first to put the disgorgement date on every single bottle, not only on his prestige cuvée.Prices:
BC$85.99750ml
AB$80.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Bruno Paillard
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Champagne Dom Pérignon Millésimé Rosé Bruttext
95PTS

Champagne Dom Pérignon Millésimé Rosé Brut 2005

Champagne, FranceWinemaker Richard Geoffroy refers to this label as a “great wine that happens to be pink.” It’s an informed comment that makes a lot of sense. The blend is a mysterious, okay undisclosed, mix of pinot noir / chardonnay of which 25 percent is still pinot noir. As spectacular as the bottle looks, the contents are equal to the packaging, but this wine is now mature and its cherry-orange colour suggests it’s not getting any younger. Look for intense floral overtones with a strawberry, blood orange palate and notes of cranberry in the long, persistent, mineral finish. Rich enough to serve throughout a meal, or just as an aperitif to excite your guests.Prices:
BC$300.00750ml
ON$356.00750ml
Producer: Dom Perignon
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Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche Côte Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Bruttext
94PTS

Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche Côte Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2005

Champagne, FranceThough the name Bérêche may be a familiar one to you, seeing as they're five generations deep growing and making Champagne, you're most likely familiar with the biodynamically farmed grower family estate of Champagne Bérêche et Fils. Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche (or R&V Bérêche for short) is the name of the current generation and brothers' relatively new négociant business, producing Champagnes from purchased fruit. The have chosen to run this business under a slightly different name in order to not have to change the status of their family operation from grower (RM) to négociant (NM). This chardonnay is from mid-slope Grand Cru Avize, and the 2005 vintage. It went into bottle in 2006 and remained there until its disgorging in December 2016 (!!), dosed with 4 g/l. Exceptional finesse and complexity, with layers of wet and dry chalk, lemon peel, green apple, fresh filberts, crispy meringue on a finely textured palate. A wave of savoury salts kissed with brown butter rides throughout, providing an alluring interest. There's a natural restraint, yet palpable intensity in this graceful, characterful wine, one that stood out amongst the rest. 4000 bottles produced.Prices:
BC$134.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Bérèche et Fils
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Champagne Nicolas Maillart Brut Platinetext
91PTS

Champagne Nicolas Maillart Brut Platine NV

Champagne, FranceThis intense negoc champagne is an 78/16/8 pinot noir/chardonnay/meunier cuvee sourced entirely from grand and premiers crus in the Montagne de Reims, and based (35 percent) on the 2014 vintage. Traditionally, the whole is plumped with 30-40 percent barrel aged reserve wines, spends a period rounding three years on the lees, and finishes off with 6 g/l dosage. My bottle was disgorged in January 2018. In contrast to type, this is a energetic and tighter wine, with skippy lemon driving the toasted brioche, red apple, red liquorice kissed palate. Acidity is crunchy, welcoming both solo sipping and partnering with prawns through pork.Prices:
BC$67.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Nicolas Maillart
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Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Crutext
93PTS

Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Pierre Peters Estate, situated in the heart of the Cote des Blancs in the village of Le Mesnil sur Oger, has been producing Grand Cru Champagne since 1919. Rudolphe Peters is currently in charge of the estate. The vines for this wine are nearing 30 years, sourced from mainly from Le Mesnil sur Oger (70 percent), and with supplementing fruit from Oger, Cramant and Avize. 75 percent go through MLF, and all are aged in a series of steel, wood, and concrete, which is mirrored with the reserve wines (40 percent), though those have entered a solera cuvée more than 20 vintages deep. After two years aging in the bottle this was disgorged with an dosage under 7 g/l. As per the Pierre Peters style, this is pure finesse and elegance. The chiseled palate is greyhound sleek, with chalk, lemon, green apple skipping along the lees-lined palate, buoyed by acidity to a lingering, vanilla meringue, lemon pith finish. They always pack so much into so little; impressive.Prices:
BC$90.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Pierre Peters
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Champagne Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Bruttext
91PTS

Champagne Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Brut NV

Champagne, FranceLa Cuvée is a shiny and new revamped version of Brut NV, updated thanks to the house's acquisition of very good chardonnay vineyards back in 2004. Now that those wines have woven into the system, LP have revised their flagship to be chardonnay dominant. The LP La Cuvée is 55 percent chardonnay, 35 pinot noir, and 10 pinot meunier, from 110 growers. This is based on the 2012 vintage, with 30 percent reserve, and with four years on the lees. They've also lowered the dosage from 12.5 to 9 g/l, a hefty and welcome plummet. White florals, lemon biscuit, vanilla wafer and lightly toasted almond / hazelnut on a medium-bodied, finessed palate. There's a tight line of potent lemon peel that lingers on the finish. Acidity is lifted and the palate is bright, much more effortless and finessed than the NV of past. A lovely change, and reflection of the house.Prices:
BC$78.85750ml
ON$69.99750ml
QC$65.60750ml
Producer: Champagne Laurent-Perrier
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Champagne Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Bruttext
93PTS

Champagne Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV

Champagne, FranceThe LP La Cuvée Rosé is a highly sought after pink fizz and one of the few still made using the saignée method. It was first released in 1968 and is made with pinot noir picked from 10 different crus in Montagne de Reims. Three days of skin contact set the colour and tannin required to sustain 60 months en tirage. In the end it’s the attractive cherry, raspberry, citrus that appeals. Fresh, and as bright as it is, there’s enough structure and acidity to take on a variety of menu items. Think wild salmon lox or grilled turkey. I often cellar this wine three to five years for even better results.Prices:
BC$119.99750ml
AB$119.99750ml
ON$119.99750ml
QC$117.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Laurent-Perrier
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Louis Roederer Brut Vintage Champagnetext
92PTS

Louis Roederer Brut Vintage Champagne 2007

Champagne, FranceRoederer is an amazing accomplishment: progressive, classic, innovative and traditional, with very high quality on a very large scale. This is the largest independent, family-owned and managed house (founded in 1776), managing more than 235ha of prime vineyards which supply 75 percent of its needs. Of that, more than two-thirds are Grand Cru fruit. Their vintage wines are solely from their estate properties. Though 2007 was not the greatest vintage, Roederer has produced one of the best wines of the year. Such a lovely nod to the Roederer style: elegant, unhurried, complexed, and proper. The 2007 blends 70/30 pinot noir/ chardonnay, 30 percent of which is aged in wood sans MLF. After blending and bottling, this spends four years in the cellar. Toasted hazelnuts, pear brioche, nougat, on a deeply cushioned pillow. Lemon / orange laced acidity lifts the heft, unhurriedly, to a lingering lemony finish. Quite proper, and fitting for a special occasion now, or time in the cellar for later.Prices:
BC$97.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Louis Roederer
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Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagnetext
92PTS

Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne NV

Champagne, FranceRoederer is an amazing accomplishment: progressive, classic, innovative and traditional, with very high quality on a very large scale. This is the largest independent, family-owned and managed house (founded in 1776), managing more than 235ha of prime vineyards which supply 75 percent of its needs. Of that, more than two-thirds are Grand Cru fruit. Their vintage wines are from their estate properties, and this flagship Brut Premier NV (also, their entry level) is also primarily estate fruit. This is a 35/38/28 mix of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, incorporating 25 percent reserve wines dating back to 2006. Said reserve wines rest in oak casks for 2-8 years before incorporation into the blends, one of the keys to the house style. This spends three years on the lees, and undergoes 40 percent MLF (but never MLF for Chardonnay). You can use the code on the back of the label to look up the dates on your particular bottle. Mine was based on 2013, bottled in 2014, and disgorged in 2017. Elegant, as ever, with toasted hazelnuts, brioche, Meyer lemon pith, salted lemon peel and an upright backbone of acidity that runs the long length of the palate. This lingers with an alluring shimmer, welcoming glass after glass, solo or with food. Legendary NV for a reason.Prices:
BC$77.99750ml
MB$75.00750ml
ON$66.95750ml
QC$72.50750ml
NF$79.20750ml
AB$74.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Louis Roederer
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Champagne Gardet Millesime Extra Bruttext
88PTS

Champagne Gardet Millesime Extra Brut 2012

Champagne, FranceGardet has been an active negociant in Champagne since 1895, and this is their new vintage release. It's 2/3 pinot noir, and 1/3 chardonnay, with almost four years on the lees and with an extra brut dosage of 4g/l. Bright, tight brioche, light pear, yellow and red apple, with crunchy Asian pear acidity and fine apple / ginger spices and men's musk. A welcome extra brut offering.Prices:
BC$75.95750ml
Producer: Champagne Gardet
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Champagne Gardet Brut Traditiontext
89PTS

Champagne Gardet Brut Tradition NV

Champagne, FranceGardet has been an active negoc in Champagne since 1895, and this is their mainstay wine. The predominant red grapes (90 percent equally split between pinots noir and meunier) are expressed through raspberry, strawberry brioche, toasty spice on a creamy, generously smooth, medium bodied palate. A puff of raspberry perfume lingers on the finely spiced finish. This spends 24-36 months on the lees, and has a dosage of 8 g/l.Prices:
BC$55.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Gardet
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Champagne Taittinger Collectiontext
92PTS

Champagne Taittinger Collection 2008

Champagne, FranceA portion of Taittinger's vintage wines fall under the limited edition Collection Series, with each label featuring the work of an international artist. For the 2008, the 14th edition of the Collection Series, Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado is highlighted, as is his interpretation of this special wine. Salgado was the first photographer selected for the commission. 2008 is equal parts pinot noir and chardonnay, 70 percent of which is grand cru and the remainder premier cru. It is bottled with 8 g/l dosage. Powerful and complexed, with nougat, marzipan, dried peach and deep and fine spicing that fill the expansive palate. This finishes with a slight vanilla / lemon curd note, which lingers long. Drinking beautifully now.Prices:
BC$399.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosétext
94PTS

Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2006

Champagne, FranceComtes Rosé is made from Grand Cru grapes and produced only in exceptional years. 70 percent pinot noir is accented with chardonnay, with 12 percent Bouzy pinot noir blended in as still red wine. Once in bottle, the whole spends spent ten years on the lees, and my bottle was disgorged in 2016. Earthy, fresh and dried mushroom infiltrates the potent cherry, cranberry and raspberry that fill the palate, one infused with fine black tea and textured with smoked stones. Orange peel lingers on the finish. This has intensity and bravado, while still holding its elegance. Lovely drinking now, but will cellar smartly.Prices:
QC$276.25750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancstext
96PTS

Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006

Champagne, FranceOne of the top wines of the year, again, and still, and same (current) vintage we've been tasting since 2013 - though I've seen the 2007 released in the UK... What a treat to track the evolution of the '06 Comtes, one of my favourite in recent history. Pristine and stunningly so, this graceful wine is showing quite a bit of power in this bottle, with chalky potency, grippy sides, energy and drive. Lovely lemony note and uncharacteristic energy in my bottle, disgorged in late 2017. Comtes is only produced in exceptional years, and spends a minimum of eight years on lees (this bottle was ten). The 2006 was sourced from Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil, and Le Mesnil sur Oger, though more than half came from Avize and Le Mesnil. Five percent of the Chouilly spent time in 225 Burgundy barrels for added emphasis. This bottle was less gossamer and more intense than normal, though all 2016 will make for brilliant cellaring wines. Iconic.Prices:
AB$245.00750ml
QC$459.251500ml
NS$200.00750ml
BC$256.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Nocturne Sectext
89PTS

Champagne Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV

Champagne, FranceNocturne uses the same base as Taitt's NV, but sees a higher dosage (17.5 g/l) and one additional year on the lees. The additional bottle development is a good partner with the higher dosage. That said, this is on the very light end of the Sec spectrum. Punchy, potent in the mouth with some pear kissed sweetness and sweet toasted ginger spices on the finish. The name suggests what time to drink this wine; it is nightclub ready, and designed for when you may want to reduce the acidity of the wine and up the smashability factor. Instead of pairing with nightclubs, you can also partner this with a fine tuna belly sashimi.Prices:
BC$93.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Prélude Grands Crustext
92PTS

Champagne Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV

Champagne, FranceThis richer, riper, doughier Taittinger is equal parts Grand Cru pinot noir (Montagne de Reims) and Grand Cru chardonnay (Côte des Blancs), aged for five+ years on the lees, and with a 9 g/l dosage. This utilizes 2 or 3 villages each for the GC pinot (Ambonnay, Maiy with northern exposure, and Verzenay) and chard (Avize and Le Mesnil and some parts of Chouilly). Powerful, with ample minerality, light smoked stone, kisses of flint and light toasty notes, lingering with lemon. This is powerful, but streamlined, with a lovely streak of acidity to match heft. Regal. My bottle was disgorged in December 2017, and this is from the 2012 vintage.Prices:
BC$120.00750ml
AB$115.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rosétext
90PTS

Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV

Champagne, FranceTaittinger Rosé is a gently deeper pink hue, afforded by the 15 percent still pinot noir in the blend. The cuvée is 50/35/15 pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier from nearly 45 crus, including some reserve wines. Pretty florals, raspberry wrap around a pure strawberry core, one that runs the palate with a fine texture and brisk crunchy acidity. Nine g/l dosage, which is common across the house. Lovely freshness here, with evident pinot character, which is welcome. My bottle was based on the 2014 vintage, which is encoded in laser on the base of the bottle.Prices:
BC$106.99750ml
AB$104.99750ml
SK$93.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Taittinger Brut Reservetext
91PTS

Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve NV

Champagne, FranceTaitt NV is one of those instantly recognizable champagnes for me. Their classic, chardonnay driven house style is drawn from nearly 40 crus in the Marne, Sézanne and Aube and with minimum three years on the lees before cellaring in Reims. Full MLF, with a dosage is 9 g/l. In the NV blend the mix is approximately 40 percent chardonnay 45 pinot noir and rest meunier. In every bottle nearly 50 percent of grapes are from owned vineyards. Juicy, bright, lemon-led, with a chalky texture and fresh, brisk rinse of acidity on the finish. This bottle was based on 2014; you can see the disgorgement date engraved in laser on the base of the bottle. There are 5M of this cuvee produced annually. Alexandre Ponnavoy is Taittinger's new winemaker as of spring 2018, and I'm looking forward to his handling of this iconic house.Prices:
BC$76.99750ml
AB$69.99750ml
SK$76.99750ml
Producer: Champagne Taittinger
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Champagne Baron-Fuenté Grande Réserve Bruttext
88PTS

Champagne Baron-Fuenté Grande Réserve Brut NV

Champagne, FranceThe Baron family has owned and cultivated vineyards in Charly sur Marne since the 17th century. When Gabriel Baron married Dolores Fuenté in 1967, they named the negoc house Baron-Fuenté. Today they own 35 ha of vineyards in the Marne, and purchase the same amount of fruit sur pied (they pick the grapes, not just manage the vin clairs or bottled wine). Fermented cool in stainless and with full MLF, this uses approximately 40 percent reserve wines, and spent three years on the lees prior to disgorgement at 9 g/l. This is a rarer seen meunier-led wine (60 percent), with 30 percent chardonnay and 10 percent pinot noir. Yellow apples, ripe pear, white flowers, light honey fill the doughy, richer frame, one with fine fruity spices and a hearty shake of acidity to brighten. Tidy entry-level champers.Prices:
BC$55.00750ml
Producer: Baron-Fuenté
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H. Billiot Fils Brut Grand Cru Brut Réserve Champagnetext
90PTS

H. Billiot Fils Brut Grand Cru Brut Réserve Champagne NV

Champagne, FranceThis small family house, active since the early 20th century, owns five, well-located, mid-slope Grand Cru hectares in Ambonnay. Forth gen Laetitia Billiot oversees the estate and winemaking, and has been a leading force in Champagne for younger, woman winemakers. The Reserve is a blend of 75 percent pinot noir and 25 percent chardonnay with 36 months on the lees. Wines are fermented in stainless with no MLF, are unfined and unfiltered, and disgorged to order. May bottle wine was disgorged on 31 Oct 2017, with a dosage of 11 g/l/, and was based (75 percent) on the 2014 vintage. This creamy, ample wine opens with apricot biscuit, dough and toasted cereals, with red fruits from apples through raspberries reflecting the predominance of Grand Cru pinots. Acidity is brisk and well placed, sweeping along the heft with an easy flow to a vanillin imbued finish. I always find Billiot wines rustic around the edges, though this release is showing plump elegance. A generous wine best enjoyed with sizeable scallops.Prices:
BC$65.00750ml
Producer: Champagne H. Billiot Fils
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Champagne Delamotte Bruttext
91PTS

Champagne Delamotte Brut NV

Champagne, FranceChampagne Delamotte was one of only five Champagne houses in the mid 1700's, and remains located in the heart of the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil- sur-Oger. Delamotte is the sister house and contiguous to the regaled Champagne Salon, with which it shares the same viticultural, winemaking and management crew. Delamotte Brut is a blend of approximately 55 percent chardonnay, 35 percent pinot noir from south-facing slopes on the Montagne de Reims, and 10 percent meunier from the Valle de la Marne. The whole spends 36 months on the lees, and is dosed with 7 g/l. Tight, finessed lemon, chalk, on a lemon brioche palate, one kissed lightly with the freshest, salted hazelnuts and nervy with energetic acidity that nips at the sides and hums on the lingering finish. Quite precise and taut, without feeling any constraints, this is a lovely, brisk, detailed NV.Prices:
BC$65.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Delamotte
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Champagne Drappier Carte d'Or Bruttext
90PTS

Champagne Drappier Carte d'Or Brut NV

Champagne, FranceThe Drappier family vineyard holdings are remarkably large, covering 100 hectares. It's taken the negoc family a long time to amass such an impressive holding in Champagne, where they're been actively buying vineyards since 1808. Drappier brought pinot noir to the Aube in 1930s. Vineyards are primarily located around Urville, in the heart of the Côte des Bar, where pinot noir is king and soils are limestone-centric. The Carte d'Or is their trademark wine, a cool-fermented blend of 75 pinot noir, 15 chardonnay and 10 pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines, and 5 percent of the blend matured in oak for one year. Wines go through full MLF, and have very little sulphur added. The disgorgement date is etched on the back of each bottle; mine was disgorged in May 2018. You can feel the nimble vibrancy of the soils here, basing the light cherry, wild raspberry, plum, apple that fills the shouldered, medium body, all imbued with lovely perfumed florals and light toast. Highly suited to pairing with roast squash / partridge / salmon.Prices:
BC$59.99750ml
ON$55.00750ml
QC$50.50750ml
Producer: Champagne Drappier
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Pierre Paillard Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru Extra Brut XIIItext
93PTS

Pierre Paillard Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru Extra Brut XIII NV

Champagne, FranceLes Parcelles is sourced entirely from Bouzy, and from 22 plots of the Paillard family's sustainably-farmed vines, now averaging 25 years. As noted by the XIII on the label, this is based on the 2013 vintage (80%) along with 2012 (14%) and 2004 (6%). A blend of 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay (the latter an anomaly in red-wine-centric Bouzy), this spent four years on the lees. Chisled lemon, nougat and meringue leads this tight, energetic and extra brut (3.5 g/l dosage) Champagne. The palate pulses with energy, drawing green apple, cream, spice along a creamy, lighter palate and through a very lengthy finish. The chalk bedrock is evident through the driving hum of minerality, and lingering chalk finish.Prices:
BC$63.00750ml
Producer: Champagne Pierre Paillard
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08 December 2018

Blomidon Brut Réservetext
92PTS

Blomidon Brut Réserve 2011

Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaThis new release is from estate grown chardonnay, with no MLF, and with 60 months on the lees before degorgement. Eventually this will evolve into the house's NV, and become their flagship wine of maritime terroir. Brilliant move. Slightly deeper in hue, this is showing the entrance of autolysis, with layers of orange rind, marmalade, chalk, light toast and salt-crusted stones. Though this has ample citrus acidity, it feels quite expansive and cushioned across the palate, thanks to the extended time on lees. The length continues to vibrato chalky, saline citrus. Very impressive.Prices:
NS$45.00750ml
Producer: Blomidon Estate Winery
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Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve Methode Classiquetext
93PTS

Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve Methode Classique 2012

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaThe Brut Reserve is only released in exceptional years when the winery deems the fruit worthy of the program. Reserve wines come from the top barrel selections and oldest estate plantings. It has only happened before in 2004, 2008, 2012, and the unreleased 2016. This year blended 65 Chardonnay, 25 Pinot Noir, 10 Pinot Meunier, with a requisite dosage of 12 g/l and five years on the lees. This wine was the very last to be assembled by Champagne oenologist Raphaël Brisbois before his death just a few weeks after blending this wine. It's an opus tribute. If you're familiar with the Brut (2013 is new release), think of this as similar but with the volume cranked up. Pulsing with energy, this streams lemon, oyster shell, green apple along a chalky palate. Tannins are ringed with white grapefruit pith and the finish lingers long with a marine rinse, anise kiss, and that chalky tug. Layers of complexity even now in youth, this will only build with time in the bottle. Thrilled to taste Nova Scotia in this bottle.Prices:
NS$75.00750ml
Producer: Benjamin Bridge
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Benjamin Bridge Brut Méthode Classiquetext
92PTS

Benjamin Bridge Brut Méthode Classique 2013

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaThe 2013 Brut, newly released, is a blend of 71 chardonnay and 29 pinot noir, spent four years on the lees, and was disgorged in June 2018 with a dosage of 8 g/l. Unlike the 2012, this removes meunier and ups the chardy quotient. White florals with kisses of young violets, white cherry, pithy white grapefruit, green apple rides an upright brisk palate. There's a hum of acidity that lends a vibrato to this light / medium bodied wine, one that is nimble in the mouth at 11.5 degrees, but feels generously cushioned on the palate. The finish grips with a chalky drying rasp and lime pith that lingers on the palate and invites another glass. Very impressive.Prices:
ON$50.00750ml
NS$44.50750ml
AB$50.00750ml
Producer: Benjamin Bridge
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Lightfoot and Wolfville Blanc de Blancs Brut Naturetext
92PTS

Lightfoot and Wolfville Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2012

Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaA hugely impressive inaugural release from one of Canada's most exciting wineries, this is estate chardonnay from Annapolis Valley. Fermented (70 percent MLF) in neutral French oak, this then spent five years on the lees before being disgorged with no dosage in January 2018. Very precise and focused, with fine chalky textural notes, light smoked stone, alluring saline, lemon pith / peel and lemon verbena. This linear wine has energy that hums along a lengthy finish and a lightness of being which belies expectations. Feels entirely maritime Nova Scotian, and will soon be an icon winery for Annapolis.Prices:
NS$65.00750ml
Producer: Lightfoot and Wolfville
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Hinterland Les Etoilestext
92PTS

Hinterland Les Etoiles 2013

Prince Edward County, Ontario, CanadaFrom one of Canada's leading sparkling houses, the 2013 Les Etoiles is one of my favourite wines they produce. This year's was a 60/40 chardonnay/pinot noir blend, with 4.5 g/l RS to balance off the riveting acidity. Tight and nimble, with verbena, crystalline orange and lemon and a candied, salted ginger snap lingering on the humming finish. Quite textural, and finessed; this is building weight and gravitas with age, and while drinking beautifully now, will reward even further with time in cellar.Prices:
ON$40.00750ml
Producer: Hinterland
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Hidden Bench Blanc de Blancstext
91PTS

Hidden Bench Blanc de Blancs 2013

Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, CanadaWow. This was the winery's inaugural blanc de blancs, and it's fantastic. Organically certified and estate grown chardonnay from the Locust Lane and Felseck vineyards were whole cluster pressed, fermented in neutral oak with seven months on the lees and then spends four years on lees in bottle prior to a zero dosage and release. Tight, racy form, with yellow, red, green apple, an alluring lick of anise, lightly toasted almonds and lemon pithiness on the finish. Great persistence and sleek form. I can't wait to see where this project is going to go in future.Prices:
ON$48.00750ml
Producer: Hidden Bench Vineyards & Winery
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Concerto Reggiano Lambruscotext
88PTS

Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco 2016

Emilia-Romagna, ItalyThere was a time when the mention of lambrusco would send me in the opposite direction at tastings, now I stop, listen and taste. The name refers to a wine made from the eponymous Italian grape grown in eight DOC regions across Emilia Romagna. The Concerto is the perfect wine to speak to the renaissance of this variety. The nose and palate are a mix of balsamic, savoury, wild, red berries with some tartness to counterbalance any natural sweetness. It’s single-vineyard, traditional method sparkler that is lightly effervescent and best serve chilled. Grilled sausages, cured meats, turkey or a favourite vegetarian lasagne recipe all work here.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
ON$19.95750ml
QC$19.95750ml
Producer: Medici Ermete
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Meiomi Sparkling Winetext
87PTS

Meiomi Sparkling Wine NV

North Coast Region, California, United StatesExpect a pleasant sweet floral nose flecked with apples and yeasty lees. The attack is soft and round with ripe pears, honey and citrus. There’s no denying the sweetness at 16 grams of residual sugar, but this wine is well made, and should have wide appeal, especially for the Meiomi crowd who seem to prefer the sweet side of wines. Try this with spicy appetizers, pepper cheese or a for dessert with fresh mixed berry tart. The blend is 60/40 chardonnay and pinot noir.Prices:
US$24.00750ml
Producer: Meiomi Wines
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Dopff & Irion Blanc de Blancs Bruttext
88PTS

Dopff & Irion Blanc de Blancs Brut NV

Alsace, FranceBright lemon, chalky texture on this zero dosage pinot blanc / auxerrois fizz, from the biodynamically farmed Dopff & Irion. Now farmed by giant co-cp Pfaffenheim, this streams lemon balm, verbena, pear skin, green apple pith across the bright, tight palate. Amazing value at 14.50 in the UKPrices:
UK$14.50750ml
Producer: Dopff & Irion
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Plumpton Brut Rosétext
88PTS

Plumpton Brut Rosé NV

EnglandThis South Down, East Sussex estate grown pinot noir is produced by students studying wine production at Plumpton College. I'd say studies are going very well. Ripe raspberry, red apple, cherry, is gritted with giant spices and riffing pink grapefruit-lined English acidity, gripped with red apple skin texture. Dosage is ample, and necessary to offset the sharp acidity. Lovely balance between generous fruit and tightrope acid. Tasted in the UKPrices:
Producer: Plumpton
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Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Bruttext
91PTS

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Brut 2015

North Coast Region, California, United StatesAlways one of America's top sparkling wines, and the 2015 is on par. A blend of 54 percent Napa and 46 percent Sonoma fruit, 18 percent of which fermented in barrel, and with more than two years on lees. This is lemon crisp, with an ample blanket of toast, dough bedding the medium bodied palate, with crispy citrus buffering around the edges. Acidity is high through the vibrating finish. The Blanc de Blancs was the first wine Schramsberg produced in 1965 and was America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine. It gained international recognition in 1972 when President Nixon served the wine at the historic "Toast to Peace" in Beijing, China.Prices:
ON$45.00750ml
BC$40.00750ml
Producer: Schramsberg
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Gusbourne Blanc de Blancstext
92PTS

Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2013

EnglandThere are rare few places where sparkling wines can meet the quality of Champagne. England is one. And Gusbourne is one of her top traditional method producers. Riveting lemon-laced and filigreed acidity lifts the chalky, stony, green apple and meringue base. Acidity skips this sleek wine along a vibrating palate to a lingering lemon pith finish. A small proportion of this was aged in oak barrels, went through full MLF, and spent 36 months on the lees before bottling. Dosage is 9 g/l, and barely felt at all. Precise, lengthy, memorable, and impressive.Prices:
BC$90.00750ml
Producer: Gusbourne
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Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura Bruttext
89PTS

Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura Brut NV

Jurançon, Sud-Ouest, FranceCrisp, chalky and bright, with a swath of green apples, vibrato of acidity, zippy lemon zest, and a thin layer of autolytic lees on the medium body, this traditional method sparkler could only be chardonnay. It's not from Burgundy, or Champagne, however, which is a natural selection. This is from Jura, and an excellent representation of the high quality fizz coming from there (at an excellent price). The finish lingers with wet chalk and mouthwatering acidity. Moreish.Prices:
BC$26.49750ml
Producer: Philippe Michel
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Acquesitext
88PTS

Acquesi NV

Piedmont, ItalyThis beautiful etched floral bottle hints at the delicate florality inside, with all the pretty peaches, pear blossoms, orange and lush melon fruit. There's a cold cream lavender base of this off dry and lifted fizz. At a cloud-like seven degrees, this is ideal for brunches or light fruit desserts.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
Producer: Acqui Terme
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Noble Ridge The One Sparklingtext
89PTS

Noble Ridge The One Sparkling 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2014 grabbed our attention and the 2015 is similarly solid. The Okanagan Falls bubble is a 70/30 mix of chardonnay and pinot noir that opens with a whiff of lees and smoke before a salty, citrus, green apple, stony profile takes over. The acid is showy and the fizz well managed. It lacks that creamy palate finish but I’m sure with age and/or a few more vintages this will come. It’s all pressed whole cluster and aged 28 months on the lees, and at only 2.0 g/l RS, significantly drier than the 2014. This could use two more years in the bottle to really settle into its final form.Prices:
BC$47.90750ml
Producer: Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery
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Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling Sauvignon Blanctext
88PTS

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, CanadaA sauvignon blanc sparkling wine makes a rare appearance in our market, and it's from the Niagara Peninsula. The attack is a touch foamy but otherwise this brut is Methode Classique bottle-fermented and aged for in oak for a few months before spending extended time ageing on its lees. The aromas are fresh with herbal, aromatic, citrus biscuit and pink grapefruit notes, and solid pineapple, apple flavours that finish clean. Made for sushi rolls, oysters or seafood appetizers, or even a favourite pâté.Prices:
BC$28.99750ml
ON$24.29750ml
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
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Blue Mountain Brut Rosé R.D. Méthode Traditionelletext
89PTS

Blue Mountain Brut Rosé R.D. Méthode Traditionelle 2014

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe rush to rosé has invaded the sparkling wine market but fortunately this wine remains true to its origins. The mix is 68/32 pinot noir/chardonnay. It’s whole cluster pressed and fermented in stainless steel. The ageing sur lie lasts about 30 months prior to disgorgement, in this case, August 2016, and then left another year in bottle. The residual sugar at 10 grams per litre will appeal to those who prefer their rosé round and soft. Expect an off-dry palate featuring strawberries and cherries with a twist of rhubarb. There is plenty of acidity to offset the RS and keep this fresh and on track. It has the structure to work with bigger dishes like duck, pork, or a favourited root vegetable dish. At this time of the year it also shows well alongside an oven-roasted turkey.Prices:
BC$32.90750ml
AB$39.95750ml
Producer: Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
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Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. Méthode Traditionelletext
91PTS

Blue Mountain Reserve Brut R.D. Méthode Traditionelle 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe '10 RD is an equal mix of estate-grown pinot noir and chardonnay. The wine went to glass in the spring of 2011 and remained there some 6.6 years on its lees until it was disgorged in August 2017. The finished brut spent another year in bottle before this release. It is as complex as it gets at Blue Mountain, and it's not too heavy-handed. The attack is desert dry with a nutty lees character on the nose and palate. The acidity dances down the side of your mouth, framing the wine while the lemon, apple, dried apricot and tangerine flavours persist through the finish. It is fun to drink now, but you could easily hold this through 2020. That's a tribute to the winemaking and the fruit available to make this wine.Prices:
BC$39.90750ml
AB$49.95750ml
Producer: Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
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Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs R.D. Méthode Traditionelletext
91PTS

Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs R.D. Méthode Traditionelle 2010

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis has become my Blue Mountain favourite and it begins with finesse and styling of this eminently drinkable 12.5 percent fizz. Not sure why we are just seeing this wine this fall, but no matter, it's delicious all the same. It was recently disgorged (RD) in August 2016 and then spent another year in bottle before release. Our sample has almost 30 months under its belt in the bottle, post its disgorgement. I love the freshness of the subtle, leesy, autolytic notes of extended lees ageing on the nose, along with bits of toast, salt and seawater before the citrus, red apple nervous fruit fill your palate and linger for ever on the palate. So pure. This is special. Serve with delicately prepared dishes.Prices:
BC$39.90750ml
AB$49.95750ml
Producer: Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
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Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Bruttext
88PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Brut NV

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaStones, yellow apple, with riffing green apple acidity wrapped around a lovely applesauce core. Nice generosity but still tight and riveting with freshness. This organic riesling, chardonnay, pinot blanc traditional method sparklier is a BC classic, first released in 1992. It spends nine months on the lees and is dosed with 12.8 g/l RS, making it accessible and welcoming. Plus, pyramid power!Prices:
BC$27.99750ml
Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery
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Averill Creek Charme de L'iletext
90PTS

Averill Creek Charme de L'ile NV

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaPinot gris and pinot noir are branded under the Charme de L'ile name, signifying Charmat method fizz, from Island grapes. This is a shining example of the high potential for fizz on the islands. Brisk, fresh, racy and severely tight - laced with lemon and orange pith texturing the sides. The body is light and the flow is lively. Best Charme de L'ile I've tasted yet; tastes of the island.Prices:
BC$28.00750ml
Producer: Averill Creek Vineyard
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Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L'ile Rosétext
84PTS

Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L'ile Rosé NV

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaOur first look at this eye of the partridge dyed, island sparkler made in the prosecco way, opening with an earthy rhubarb and red fruit nose with a whiff of oxidation. The attack is a touch foamy with more oxidative notes mixed with cherry berry, lees and earth. Drink now. The grapes are grown on clay over gravel in the cool climate Cowichan Valley. Not quite on pointe.Prices:
BC$23.39750ml
Producer: Unsworth Vineyards ULC
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Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L'iletext
88PTS

Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L'ile NV

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaThe Charme de L’ile from Unsworth is on point with a fresh, clean, fruity nose. The blend is 43 pinot noir, 42 pinot gris and 15 sauvignette, the latter bringing vibrancy to this delicious sparkler. Packaged under the Vancouver Island-shared Charme de L'ile branding, it is crisp, with taut, citrus, wet stone aromas and similarly tight, green apple, lees flavours, with modest size mousse. Well done with food-friendly acidity to take on any bites with a bit of fat.Prices:
BC$29.90750ml
Producer: Unsworth Vineyards ULC
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Bench 1775 Brut Rosétext
88PTS

Bench 1775 Brut Rosé NV

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe newest Brut Rosé has moved to a NV wine, but remains a blend of Naramata Bench young chardonnay and pinot noir vines. Toast, smoked red fruit, candied raspberry is lively in the mouth, juicy with acidity, and closes with a sharp bitter cherry bite. Best with smoked salmon canapés, lox-livened brunches or earthy patés.Prices:
BC$22.00750ml
Producer: Bench 1775 Winery
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Blue Grouse Paula Methode Traditionaltext
88PTS

Blue Grouse Paula Methode Traditional 2014

British Columbia, CanadaThis is a BC designated sparkler with a 42.4/42.5/10/5 mix of muller-thurgau, ortega, pinot auxerrois and riesling (the latter two Okanagan-based) which helps explain the fresh lemon, green apple and a whiff of almonds. The attack is clean and vibrant with a refined mousse and an undercore of bright acidity. This is a food sparkler and I can’t think of a better start then with smoked salmon, goat cheese or fresh shucked oysters. Promising start; next up more complexity.Prices:
BC$18.00750ml
Producer: Blue Grouse Estate Winery
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Evolve Pink Effervescencetext
86PTS

Evolve Pink Effervescence NV

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe latest version of Evolve's pink frizzante (they have a blanc gew-only blend this year as well) blends pinot blanc, merlot and chardonnay into a slightly soft, off-dry fizz, full of pink florals, strawberry jam, candied peach and sharpened with a frame of raspberry leather and pink grapefruit. Easy, fun, festive, and balanced for brunch, now.Prices:
BC$21.99750ml
Producer: Time Family of Wines
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Evolve Frizzantetext
87PTS

Evolve Frizzante 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis year's white frizzante (there is a pink version as well) is entirely gewürztraminer for the first time; a welcome change. Lively and fun, with apricot blossoms, candied lime and peach on a bright, just off-dry palate. For drinking now, with friends and fêtes. Nicely handled.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
Producer: Time Family of Wines
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Dr. Loosen Sparkling Rieslingtext
87PTS

Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling NV

GermanyAmply frothy, amply sweet sums up this charmat method riesling from German's famous Loosen Bros. Though this is labelled Sec (dry) it rides a wave of residual sugar that carries candied peach, pear, candy necklace, pink grapefruit and perfumed melon to a snappy finish. Acidity is shining, which is welcome. Needs be chilled well, and might find its best use in cocktails.Prices:
BC$19.00750ml
Producer: Weingut Dr. Loosen
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Maeli Dilátext
86PTS

Maeli Dilá 2014

Veneto, ItalyDilà means rising above challenges. This wine is the first moscato giallo (yellow muscat) made in the medoto classico (traditional method), spending 13 months on the lees prior to release. Organically-farmed, and naturally-bent, with no additions or deletions, the grapes come from the high altitude volcanic Luvigliano Hills, in Padua, within the DOC of Colli Eugani (though sparkling wines are not permitted use of the DOC). Ample meadow herbs, toasted pine nuts, yellow fruits and citrus, this reminds me of a witbier in bitterness and body (very fine mousse), but carries the brightness of lemon, and the perfumed quince of moscato. Light in body and persistent in flavour, this is a lovely, delicate pour as an aperitif. Best well chilled.Prices:
ON$79.95750ml
Producer: Maeli
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8th Generation Vineyard Confidence Petite Frizzantetext
86PTS

8th Generation Vineyard Confidence Petite Frizzante 2017

Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaSo cute! Frosted glass, etched, pink, 375ml, and this perfectly picnic and pocket-sized pour is around $15. This frizzante pink is mostly pinot noir, with a 10 percent tip of pinot gris, and sourced from Naramata, Summerland and Okanagan Falls. CO2 from fermentation is trapped and injected back into the wine to create the big froth and creamy mousse. Sweet strawberry jam, cherry cordial, pink grapefruit pops on a well-chilled palate, finishing snappy with rose petals lingering. Best with spicy bites, well chilled.Prices:
BC$13.99375ml
Producer: 8th Generation Vineyard
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Bella Sparkling Blanc de Blancs Oliver East Side Reservetext
89PTS

Bella Sparkling Blanc de Blancs Oliver East Side Reserve 2014

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaPart of Jay Drysdale's Reserves programming (as noted by the black label). We're tasting this four years along from first view, now with 46 months on the lees, providing a totally different view of Cerqueira Vineyard and this Oliver East Side. The 2014 is round and softer on the palate, with yellow apple and pear, housed with a light, tight frame, holding the acid well. There's an earthy, savoury textural component throughout this wine, not noted in the 2013 Reserve. This was the first time Jay worked with less sulphur / no inputs.Prices:
BC$24.00750ml
BC$15.00375ml
Producer: Bella Wines
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Bella Sparkling Blanc de Blancs Oliver East Side Reservetext
91PTS

Bella Sparkling Blanc de Blancs Oliver East Side Reserve 2013

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaPart of Jay Drysdale's Reserves programming (as noted by the black label). We're tasting this four years along from first view, now with 58 months on the lees, and obviously a very different, more mature version of Oliver East Side. Chalky, fine lemon, lees wrap around a searing, sharp tight lemony core. Licks of butterscotch on the nose lead, and bitter lemon notes linger in the back end. This was from Cerqueira Vineyard, along Oliver's Black Sage Bench.Prices:
BC$65.00750ml
Producer: Bella Wines
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Bella Wines Reserve Brut Nature Oliver Eastside Chardonnaytext
92PTS

Bella Wines Reserve Brut Nature Oliver Eastside Chardonnay 2012

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaNow with 70 months on lees. Singularly sourced from Oliver's calcium carbonate-laced Cerqueira Vineyard, this chardonnay was bottled with no dosage, and sulfured only after first ferment. Broken stones bed the tight, chalky core, based with quince, kissed with caramels, and tightened with energetic lemon lined sides. Much more knit and refined than the last time I tasted, and an exciting show for the future.Prices:
BC$55.00750ml
Producer: Bella Wines
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07 December 2018

Tenuta Luce della Vitetext
95PTS

Tenuta Luce della Vite 2015

Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany, ItalyLuce was born a collaboration of the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi Families with the idea of matching the roundness and softness of merlot with the elegance and structure of sangiovese in the revered home of the sangiovese-only Brunello di Montalcino. At 350 to 420 metres, the Luce estate is among Montalcino's highest. Sangiovese likes the heights while the merlot is better placed in the clays of the lowest elevations. Since 2002, Lamberto Frescobaldi has been entirely responsible for the Luce project keeping a close, watchful eye on the Super Tuscan red with a worldwide reputation. At 15 percent alcohol, 2015 comes calling in a big way with ripe fruit and power. Uncharacteristically showy right out of the gate, the style is rich and powerful but still with enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. Think black cherries, dark plums and a plethora of brown spicing. It is a fruitful year and a rich wine that should be popular with those who love the more lavish New World style. At only 35 hectolitres per hectare, the yields are low and well-controlled. Luce spends two years in hand-split oak barriques, of which 85 percent are new.Prices:
BC$135.00750ml
AB$101.00750ml
ON$100.00750ml
QC$99.00750ml
MB$99.00750ml
Producer: Tenuta Luce
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Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezionetext
89PTS

Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2014

Tuscany, ItalyReserva Ducale Oro Riserva has its mystique beginning in 1927 as Ruffino’s top Tuscan red, but it's only produced in outstanding years. Most of the fruit comes off the Gretole estate with some lesser parts from Santedame both are Chianti Classico sites. The fermented wine is aged in oak, stainless steel and concrete vats for 36 months and spends additional time in bottle before release. About 85 percent of the fruit is sangiovese with additions of colorino, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Look for a full on earthy, forest floor, nose of red fruits and mushrooms. The attack is rich and round with red/black fruit flavours carrying drying tannins that will need some more bottle time to disperse. Traditional Italian pairings include pasta Bolognese, wild boar ragu, or eggplant Parmesan. New plantings and clonal work done almost two decades ago are paying off at Ruffino’s many estates; The appearance of the Gran Selezione tag on Chianti labels (retroactive to 2010) marks each Chianti producer’s best effort.Prices:
BC$46.99750ml
ON$47.95750ml
QC$45.00750ml
NS$50.00750ml
Producer: Tenimenti Ruffino
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06 December 2018

Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcinotext
94PTS

Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany, ItalyTwenty years ago there was no Brunello at Luce because it wasn’t in the initial vision of the Frescobaldi’s or the Mondavi’s to produce a Super Tuscan with merlot and sangiovese. Today the incredibly well-tended and positioned 217-acre estate vineyard yields a small amount of Brunello from a select block within the estate. The quantity is small, and it comes off some the higher, cooler sites planted to sangiovese over sandstone and limestone. The Brunelli aged a year in mostly old Slavonian oak, with only ten percent new to best reveal its impressive fruit and terroir. The style is modern, with a red fruit demeanour and that savoury, balsamic, Mediterranean countryside aroma. In the mouth it has a sophisticated, polished mix of cherries and cacao dust, with just enough tannin to suggest a structure that will age through 2025. This wine is now a different level than its early years. Try this with a favourite steak cut.Prices:
BC$93.00750ml
AB$98.00750ml
ON$120.00750ml
QC$119.00750ml
MB$98.26750ml
Producer: Tenuta Luce
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Tenuta Luce La Vite Lucentetext
91PTS

Tenuta Luce La Vite Lucente 2015

Tuscany, ItalyA wet winter replenished the vineyards and set up 2015 to be a good year. A dry summer and a touch of rain in the first week of August set the stage for an excellent vintage. In this perfect harvest, the sangiovese was picked in the first week in September while the merlot was harvested during the third week. Lucente is a selection of fruit from the same vineyard as its sister cru, Luce. The difference is the style: Lucente is fruit forward and its made to be consumed earlier but in years like 2015 it can be larger than life. The wine opens with a touch of cedar (old chest drawer) before the fruit busts through. On the palate, ripe black cherries and wild strawberries rush from front to back with a whack of spice and Mediterranean garrigue. This is fun to drink now but will age well for a decade. For Lucente the fermentation is in stainless steel vats for 12 days with a total of 22 days of skin contact. Ageing is divided between 55 percent new French oak, 5 percent new American oak and the remainder is aged in reused French barriques for twelve months. Lucente production is 31,000 cases.Prices:
BC$34.99750ml
AB$31.00750ml
ON$30.00750ml
QC$37.50750ml
QC$90.00750ml
MB$41.00750ml
NS$40.00750ml
ON$90.001500ml
NF$42.00750ml
Producer: Tenuta Luce
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Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcinotext
92PTS

Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany, ItalyPian comes off one of the warmest sites in Brunello that can be blessing in most years. The vineyard is lovingly tended by Fabio Ratto and the wine is consistently ripe. Pian delle Vigne is quietly aged in 3000 to 8000 litre oak casks long free from any oak influence in the flavours. Its clay over limestone soils are riddled with small stones yielding purity of fruit and spice on the nose with bright floral, eucalyptus notes and black cherry, plum, liquorice aromas. The attack is generous, almost weighty, with impressive fine-grained tannins and rich dark plum, licorice and raspberry jam flavours that finish long and silky with flecks of brown spice. A perfect blend of the old and the new that will easily cellar thorough 2023 and beyond.Prices:
BC$70.99750ml
AB$70.00750ml
ON$61.95750ml
QC$53.75750ml
NB$65.00750ml
PEI$65.00750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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Castello di Ama San Lorenzo Chianti Classico Gran Selezionetext
92PTS

Castello di Ama San Lorenzo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2013

Siena, Tuscany, ItalyCastello di Ama comes out of Gaiole, near the southern edge of Chianti Classico. The wine is made from a mix of ten year and older vineyard blocks. The style is Italian rustic elegance. Pipe tobacco and ripe cherries greet the nose with earthy forest floor notes. There’s an obvious density of red fruit on the attack. The tannins are rich and fine-grained, and the palate is at first sweet but quickly subdued by a savoury, plummy/cherry fruit. Well balanced and poised to live in the bottle for more than a decade. Selezione rules state all grapes must be produced by the winery itself and the wine cannot be sold before 30 months after harvest.Prices:
BC$53.99750ml
Producer: Castello di Ama
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Cervaro della Salatext
93PTS

Cervaro della Sala 2016

Umbria, ItalyWinter rains led to a vigourous start in the vineyards in 2016 that pulled back in July when warm days and cool nights restored order among the vines. The picking began with chardonnay in late August followed two weeks later by the grechetto. The winery experience is all gravity and after a short four hours of skin contact the must goes into stainless steel tanks before heading to barrel where the primary and the malolactic fermentation take place. Some three months later the chardonnay goes back to tank to be blended with 10 percent grechetto that is fermented separately in stainless steel. Post bottling, the wine spends several months resting at Castello della Sala. The wine has a light straw yellow colour. The aromas are bright with citrus, stony, pear, notes and spicy lees. The attack is dry and fresh evoking quince, butter, lime and grapefruit within a tight framework of oak with a dusting of hazelnuts. Try it with crab cakes, squash ravioli, or mushroom risotto. We love the leaner, cooler evolution of this wine, you can confidently age from four to six years. Cervaro takes its name from the Monaldeschi della Vipera family which owned the Castello della Sala in the 14th century. The Antinori family acquired the property in 1940 and the first release of Cervaro della Sala was in 1985.Prices:
BC$66.00750ml
ON$68.95750ml
QC$59.75750ml
Producer: Castello della Sala
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Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riservatext
92PTS

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2015

Tuscany, ItalyIn 2015, warm days and cool nights were a steady pattern during the growing season, leading to a vintage to remember. For some the quality is reminiscent of the fabulous 1997s. I tasted this wine alongside the 2015 Tignanello because the fruit for both comes off the same site and the Riserva more than held its own. The nose is a fruit bomb mixing wild black red fruit sprinkled with spice and tobacco. The attack is vertical and vibrant with savoury, salty, mineral notes mixed with pure cherry fruit. The label is historic, issued first in 1928, but with the inauguration of the Antinori nel Chianti Classico cellars, the family sought to revive and reinterpret the Tuscan classic with a Riserva offering and some offering it is. Keep three to five years before you begin to open this gem.Prices:
BC$58.00750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riservatext
90PTS

Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2015

Tuscany, ItalyIn 2015, warm days and cool nights were a steady pattern leading to a vintage to remember. For some, the quality is reminiscent of the fabulous 1997s. The label is historic, issued first in 1928 and brought back to coincide with the new Antinori nel Chianti Classico cellars at Bargino. The family sought to revive and reinterpret the Tuscan classic with a Riserva offering, and some offering it is. The final blend of sangiovese, cabernet and merlot aged mostly larger casks and a few smaller barrels for some 20 months. The nose opens with meaty, black fruit notes showing some of the intensity of 2015. The attack is as rich and as powerful as it gets for sangiovese. The combination of earthy, forest floor notes and intense black cherry, black raspberry fruit is impressive as is the long persistent finish, Cellar or drink now with full-flavoured dishes.Prices:
BC$31.99750ml
AB$31.00750ml
MB$33.00750ml
ON$30.00750ml
QC$30.00750ml
NB$36.00750ml
PEI$28.00750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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Antinori Tignanellotext
97PTS

Antinori Tignanello 2015

Tuscany, ItalyThis is a great Tignanello and definitely one to lay away if you are a collector. As chief winemaker Renzo Cotarella so aptly says, the place penetrates the wine. In 2015, warm days and cool nights were a steady pattern during the growing season, leading to fully ripe, dense, almost sweet black fruit with fine acidity. It delivers the vibrancy and verticality you expect from Tignanello (and sangiovese) with licorice and minerality. The tannins are highly polished and would suggest you could drink this now, but I say wait a few years to give this wine a chance to really show off. Undervalued, to say the least.Prices:
BC$125.99750ml
AB$119.00750ml
ON$115.00750ml
QC$114.00750ml
MB$117.00750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classicotext
90PTS

Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2015

Tuscany, ItalyThe move to Bargino and the new Antinori winery signals a significant commitment by the family to raise up Chianti Classico. Peppoli is one of several Antinori estates making top-flight Chianti Classico. 2015 is a fine vintage and with a little extra heft Peppoli looks particularly attractive. Floral and fresh, there is plenty of earthy, black cherry fruit running down the middle of this lengthy, complex red. This elegant reserve wine should age effortlessly through 2025.Prices:
BC$24.99750ml
AB$23.00750ml
ON$20.00750ml
QC$24.00750ml
NF$26.00750ml
MB$26.00750ml
NB$30.00750ml
NS$31.00750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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Villa Antinori Toscana Rossotext
89PTS

Villa Antinori Toscana Rosso 2015

Tuscany, Italy2015 is one of those years when the lesser labels can shine given the quality of the fruit. That’s the case with this Toscana IGT, a mix of mostly sangiovese with small quantities of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. The attack is richer, the fruit darker than the norm but still with enough red fruit brightness to keep it fresh. Juicy black cherries, dark plums and spicy vanilla notes give it a touch more heft in 2015 which should have wide appeal. That said, the textures remain supple and eminently drinkable. A good year to stock up on. The wine is aged in a mix of French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels for twelve months before it gets a further eight months in bottle. Try this with a lamb sausage tomato sauced pasta. Interestingly, ‘Villa Rosso’ was first produced in 1928 by Niccolò Antinori, father of Piero Antinori and was revived by Piero Antinori in 2001 as an IGT wine made from estate fruit.Prices:
BC$25.49750ml
AB$25.00750ml
MB$27.00750ml
ON$25.50750ml
QC$25.50750ml
NB$31.50750ml
NS$32.50750ml
Producer: Marchesi Antinori
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05 December 2018

Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Blanctext
87PTS

Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Blanc 2017

Cotes de Gascogne, Sud-Ouest, FranceThe property is planted to Seven vareties each of white and red, producing a number of different cuvees, Sichel doesn't own, but works with this property. This is a blend of every white on the property: sauvignon blanc, colombard, ugni blanc, chardonnay, gros manseng, petit manseng and folle blanche. Fresh, fruity accessible with youthful pear, yellow and green apple on a tighter, steely frame. This carries 4 g/l RS to offset the bracing acidity, and make it a suitable pour for white fish or clams.Prices:
BC$18.00750ml
Producer: Domaine de Pellehaut
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Bodegas Toro Albala Eléctrico Fino 3 Fasestext
90PTS

Bodegas Toro Albala Eléctrico Fino 3 Fases NV

Sherry Jerez - Manzanilla, SpainBone dry and awash with hints of large flake sea salts, almond skins along a gently plump, sweet stone palate, this subtle, pale yellow fino has both generosity and freshness. Less overtly salty than its coastal Jerez counterparts, this is content with its nuttiness, citrus and meadow grass notes. This is a solera that began 65 years ago, though the wine is no more than ten years old (averaging five) meaning it's a fino with extended time under flor, adding to its complexity. As with all finos from Montilla, no fortification is needed for the flor to thrive. The shining packaging, and name Fino Electrico reflects the winery's past existence as the original power plant in Aguilar de la Frontera.Prices:
ON$36.95750ml
Producer: Bodegas Toro Albala
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M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanctext
88PTS

M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc 2017

Côtes du Roussillon, Roussillon, Sud de France, FranceI hadn't tasted this wine in years, so was great to come across a bottle of this Roussillon blend of grenache blanc, roussanne, marsanne and macabeu. Chapoutier's familiar braille labels and biodynamic beliefs trickled down to southern France and the stony soiled terraces of Côtes du Roussillon, imparting a watery white of lemon blossom, pear skin, underripe melon and white grapefruit pith along a lean palate. The finish is clipped and bright, with a slight flush of warmth and a rise of sour citrus and lemon thistle. Chill this and pour with Thai scented curry or seafood.Prices:
BC$17.99750ml
Producer: M. Chapoutier
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Terravista Fandangotext
91PTS

Terravista Fandango 2017

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThere are not many wines I would buy without tasting but you could add Fandango to a compact list. This seventh edition is magic, again, thanks to its unique blend of albariño (57) and verdejo (43) grown on Terravista's granitic, sloping upper Naramata Bench home site, Lone Hand Ranch. The nose and palate are super expressive loaded with limes, apricots, pears, licorice and salty, mineral electric acidity. Only just richer than the straight albariño but eminently drinkable. It’s always sold out so get on the list for next year’s release or scour restaurant and private wine shop lists. Quality.Prices:
BC$24.90750ml
Producer: Terravista Vineyards
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Van Westen Vineyards Vivacioustext
89PTS

Van Westen Vineyards Vivacious 2017

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2017 Vivacious is a full-blown pinot blanc with a dash of pinot gris for good measure, and is both barrel and tank fermented. The attack is bright and juicy with honeyed citrus, pear from front to back, a dusting of Okanagan scrubby sagebrush, and grass. Vivacious is from their Home Lot Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. I love this wine with curry, so simply add your favourite protein or vegetable and stir.Prices:
BC$20.00750ml
Producer: Van Westen Vineyards
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04 December 2018

Laroche Chablis Saint Martintext
88PTS

Laroche Chablis Saint Martin 2016

Chablis, Burgundy, FranceSaint Martin was a Monk in the 4th century, and this wine is named for the church started in the 9th century outside LaRoche. This is a lean, tight, sleek form, led by green apple and wet stone, seasoned with tangerine pith and touched with grass. Lacking in concentration, but not in acidity, this would work very well with lemongrass clams.Prices:
BC$28.00750ml
Producer: Laroche
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Domaine Gerard Tremblay Petit Chablistext
88PTS

Domaine Gerard Tremblay Petit Chablis 2017

Chablis, Burgundy, FranceClassic Petit Chablis from its super pale color to its ultra-lean citrus-scented mineral nose flecked with wet stone notes. The palate is equally trim with plenty of crisp refreshing acidity and a strong mineral undercurrent. This wine needs food, and oysters would be the number one pick for me. Simple, fresh, correct. Everything WinePrices:
BC$28.99750ml
AB$21.95750ml
Producer: Gerard Tremblay
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Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillontext
92PTS

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2016

Chablis, Burgundy, FranceSuch a wonderful introduction of freshly squeezed lemon over rock salt and seashells. There’s an appealing hint of struck match, fresh cut green apple and a whiff of carrot top as it spills across your mouth, so dry and clipped before flushing out the long palate with juicy lemon, grass, green apple skin flecked with sea salt, chalk and warm broken stones. The intensity is premier cru, as is the complexity. You can drink this now, especially with freshly shucked oysters, but it will continue to improve in bottle over the next seven years.Prices:
BC$53.99750ml
QC$40.00750ml
MB$40.00750ml
BC$47.20750ml
Producer: Domaine Christian Moreau
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Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmurtext
93PTS

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2016

Chablis, Burgundy, FrancePineapple is not a descriptor I associate with Grand Cru Chablis but this 2016 Valmur offers it up in spades. Its not fat or sweet or ripe but cool and dried and pithy with a wealth of bright citrus to cover it. It's crisp and precise but with an underlying power that is yet to be released. Moreau owns 1.2 hectares in the masterful grand cru and they seem to get a lot out of it. A touch of new oak mixed with older barrels round out bright fruit and intensity of the wine. You could drink this in now, but I suggest waiting five years for the full picture.Prices:
BC$92.99750ml
AB$55.00750ml
MB$58.00750ml
Producer: Domaine Christian Moreau
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03 December 2018

Tantalus Maija Pinot Noirtext
89PTS

Tantalus Maija Pinot Noir 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaMaija, named for Tantalus' owner Eric Savics' daughter (although there are a couple other prominent females at the winery with the same name, albeit with different spellings) used to fall under the Juveniles Pinot Noir label. The wine has now graduated and earned its own striking Dempsey Bob mask on the label. Younger estate Dijon plantings plus fruit from a neighbouring southeast Kelowna vineyard were natively fermented, then into French oak (20 percent new) for 11 months before blending and bottling. It is a lovely, charming and graceful style, with slicked wild raspberry, plum some dusty cardamom spicing, and a siding of leather. Very youthful and tight, drinking well now and with energy to carry for short term.Prices:
BC$21.65750ml
Producer: Tantalus Vineyards
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Fort Berens Pinot Noir Reservetext
87PTS

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Reserve 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Reserve pinot is a 46/54 mix of estate fruit and fruit harvested from The Rise Vineyard in Vernon. Some 25 percent of the wine is whole cluster pressed prior to a carbonic fermentation in search of drinkability and fruit. The rest of the batch was crushed and layered on top. Post-ferment it spends a year in new and seasoned French oak. The attack is tart with fresh acidity lighting up the sides of the palate. Light in colour and texture, there is an elegance here and an underlying black cherry fruit trying to escape the wood. More refined than their regular pinot and drinkable now but I would wait a year for this to settle in and show its true face.Prices:
BC$29.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Fort Berens Pinot Noirtext
86PTS

Fort Berens Pinot Noir 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2016 is a 75/25 mix of Lillooet fruit and Vernon fruit, all aged in French oak (30 percent new) for nine months. For the moment the wood sits firmly on the slightly underripe, sour cherry fruit. There’s a gentle reserved hand here, aside from the oak, but the sweet and sour fruit flavours are less attractive. Give this another year in the bottle to pull it all together before you serve it with grilled salmon.Prices:
BC$25.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Fort Berens Pinot Noirtext
86PTS

Fort Berens Pinot Noir 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaPouring a brownish red hue, this earthy, soft pinot noir is three quarters estate and the remainder from The Rise Vineyard in Vernon. The whole was aged in French oak for nine months, including 30 percent new. The wood is over-evident in its framing of the gentle pinot, one sided with light wood-grained tannins that wrap around a plush palate. Dried cherry, moss, muddy earth, bitter cocoa, sour berries linger on the hot finish, one slightly cloudy due to no fining or filtration. I appreciate the lighter style attempt, but this seems somewhat muddled between the use of oak and ripe fruit and the lighter style, leaving it disjointed.Prices:
BC$25.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Fort Berens Pinot Noir Reservetext
88PTS

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Reserve 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaA step up in price and quality for the Reserve Pinot Noir, this is a blend of estate fruit (46 percent) with the remainder from The Rise Vineyard in Vernon. One quarter of the grapes were whole cluster, which underwent carbonic fermentation, bringing fruity drinkability to the wine. The remainder was crushed and layered on top, fermented traditionally, with native yeast. The whole was aged for one year in French oak, part of which was new. Tannins are rubbed fine, yet enough to house dried and fresh cherry, forest berries, leather, brown spices. Drinking well now, and would be a great partner to pork chops.Prices:
BC$29.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Rocky Creek Pinot Noirtext
86PTS

Rocky Creek Pinot Noir 2016

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2015 growing season was a winner in the Cowichan Valley and this wine is showing some improvement over last year. The colour is pale red with fresh, spicy, forest floor - more terroir, less fruit. The attack is fresh with skinny, sappy cherry, plums and cedar with a film of oak and some drying tannins in the finish. It will need some more time in bottle. Nice to see a natural cork this year. Best now with fatty dishes, like duck liver paté.Prices:
BC$30.00750ml
Producer: Rocky Creek Winery
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Greywacke Pinot Noirtext
91PTS

Greywacke Pinot Noir 2014

Marlborough, South Island, New ZealandIt's nice to see a well done red variety from Marlborough, forever home of savvy. This was planted on the hills of the Wairau in the southern valleys. Darker, concentrated style, with plum, peppery spices, back raspberries, forest berries bedding a supple, silky palate, and with a nice cedar grip of brisk tannins to the finish. From the Southern Valleys, principally from the clay/loam loess of Brancott / Ben Morven ridge, this is predominantly Dijon 115, 777, 667, and was 20 percent whole bunch, native ferment, plunged 2x daily for a couple of weeks before going into oak (40 percent new) where it was left to rest for 16 months prior to blending.Prices:
BC$46.00750ml
Producer: Greywacke
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Bench 1775 Pinot Noirtext
88PTS

Bench 1775 Pinot Noir 2015

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaLovely dusky plum, wild cherry course through this darker shaded pinot noir, with a fine peppery grip and tug of wood siding the darkly perfumed black fruit. There's a bitter cassis / espresso nip on the finish. The wine makes more sense when you know that this had 11.5 percent syrah and a degree of merlot added to the estate pinot noir before some time in French oak (30 percent new). This bigger pinot would be a great pour alongside duck.Prices:
BC$25.90750ml
Producer: Bench 1775 Winery
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Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Noirtext
90PTS

Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Noir 2016

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaIs this best Vancouver Island pinot noir at the moment? I think so. It’s very west coast spicy and wild with a definite vitality and sea air freshness. Darker fruits, wet stone minerality with a slight acidic underbite and floral undertones, this is fresh and bright throughout with a finish suggesting it will age well. The fruit comes off a North Cowichan site, mixing three clones. It’s aged 15 months in barrel and is about as terroir-based as it gets. Salmon grilled on an open fire on the beach is the match.Prices:
BC$26.00750ml
Producer: Unsworth Vineyards ULC
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Blue Grouse Estate Pinot Noirtext
89PTS

Blue Grouse Estate Pinot Noir 2016

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2016 follows on the 2015 mixing 85/15 pinot noir and gamay all from Vancouver Island. The pinot noir clone is unknown although it is said to be one of the last vine imports into Canada from France prior to quarantine regulations in the early 1990s. At 13.8 percent it is almost refreshing, the nose is fragrant and pinot-like. It’s not as dark as last year but it’s spicy and the acidity is bright. The attack is mouth filling with notes of cedar, black cherries and better fine-grained tannins this year. The fruit is hand-harvested; yields sit around 2-tons to the acre. The vines grow on heavy clay-loam soils with minimal irrigation. The pinot noir and gamay is aged separately and aged 18 months in new (16% new) plus two and three-year-old wood. The grapes are blended at the final assemblage and bottled and aged 12 months in neutral French and American oak. Stylish and making a positive Island statement.Prices:
BC$27.00750ml
Producer: Blue Grouse Estate Winery
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Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Noirtext
87PTS

Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Noir 2016

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaThis is honest pinot, made with 50 percent Cowichan Valley fruit and 50 percent from the Okanagan. The attack is surprisingly rich, with warm, peppery, red/black fruit and a touch of tannin. This wine is aged in older barrels of French and American oak that are beginning to fade, leaving a slightly more authentic pinot character. Look for sour cherry, leaf, soya notes that finish clean and proper. An interesting mix of cool and warm fruit that’s showing increasingly more promise. Grilled salmon is the pairing here. Impressive 4000 cases made.Prices:
BC$25.00750ml
Producer: Blue Grouse Estate Winery
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01 December 2018

Benjamin Bridge Rieslingtext
89PTS

Benjamin Bridge Riesling 2016

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, CanadaThe first Riesling from Canada's sparkling sweethearts, Benjamin Bridge, this carves a channel out of honeysuckle, rosewater, cold cream, ripe melon, lemon balm, bitter lime peel, finishing with a kiss of anise. Acidity is shining, and the alcohol is slight (9 degrees). Best enjoyed with a steaming bowl of moules or clams.Prices:
BC$30.00750ml
Producer: Benjamin Bridge
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Greywacke Rieslingtext
88PTS

Greywacke Riesling 2015

Marlborough, South Island, New ZealandFrom certified organic, 20-ish year Ashmore Vineyard, adjacent to the mouth of the Brancott Valley comes this Kiwi riesling, a grape we're not as familiar with from NZ. Driving lime, mandarine, on a softer, off-dry palate, lined with glycerine. Hints of spiced aromatic melon filter through river water, medium-bodied finish. This was whole bunch pressed, 50 percent tank fermented and 50 percent in older oak with native yeast before a 5-7 stint in oak prior to bottling.Prices:
BC$40.00750ml
Producer: Greywacke
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Culmina Family Estate Decoratext
89PTS

Culmina Family Estate Decora 2016

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom Margaret's Bench, this vintage used a bit of sussreserve that purposefully preserves a gentle bump of RS, working to counter the tight, bright acidity that streaks across the palate. Tight, chalky lemon, lemon curd on a lean palate, one that still feels generous through the finish. Decora is Latin for beautiful, and comes from 595m up on Margaret's Bench, the home estate of Culmina.Prices:
BC$21.00750ml
Producer: Culmina Family Estate Winery
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Fort Berens Reserve Rieslingtext
89PTS

Fort Berens Reserve Riesling 2017

Lillooet, British Columbia, CanadaThis brand new Reserve Riesling is sourced entirely from Fort Berens' estate vineyard in Lillooet. After whole cluster pressing, this was cool fermented for seven weeks in stainless before nine months' bottle age prior to release. Juicy, potent pear flesh, mandarin, lime, on a full, fleshy palate, one shaped by limey sherbet to a snappy finish. Off dry and frisky but with perfect balance and a modicum of complexity. Well done; a lovely solo sipper.Prices:
BC$22.99750ml
Producer: Fort Berens Estate Winery
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Evolve Rieslingtext
87PTS

Evolve Riesling 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis is a juicy, fresh, pleasantly ripe, but mostly dry white wine that would be fun to share at a party. A fine mix of lemon, peach and tangerine with a tangy mid-palate and finish. A good partner for seafood bites, sushi rolls and spicy dishes. Fair value.Prices:
BC$19.99750ml
Producer: Time Family of Wines
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Time Rieslingtext
89PTS

Time Riesling 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe house style is evolving at Time as evidence by this refresh, mouthwatering, food-friendly style of riesling. Crisp fresh cut apples, mix with citrus and nectarine skin persist across your palate. A touch of lime rind, minerality and slat wrap up this easy to drink white that will match a lot of foods. The apparent sugar is balanced off by an equal amount of acidity. Try this with a favourite curry or grilled pork.Prices:
BC$24.99750ml
Producer: Time Family of Wines
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Loosen Bros Dr L. Rieslingtext
88PTS

Loosen Bros Dr L. Riesling 2016

GermanyDr. L. is Loosen Bros. introductory riesling, and always consistent and affordable, especially given its all Mosel fruit content. This is a fruit salad of juicy yellow and green fruits: lime, lemon, green apple, gooseberries all crest a juicy, fresh just off-dry palate. Limey sherbet sticks on the side. Food friendly and ready to drink there a tiny bit of fizz keeping it fresh. A perfect spicy sushi wine.Prices:
BC$17.99750ml
ON$14.95750ml
NFL$19.16750ml
SAQ$16.05750ml
MB$18.39750ml
Producer: Weingut Dr. Loosen
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Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Schützenhaus Riesling Kabinetttext
88PTS

Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Schützenhaus Riesling Kabinett 2016

Rheingau, GermanyThis is from the erste lage Schützenhaus, which is the equivalent of a premier cru. The south-southwest sloping vineyard is around 150 meters in altitude, and fortunately protected (in German, "schützen") from cold easterly winds. White peach, stones, pear butter, light honey, yellow apple ride a generously juicy palate, one tightly hemmed and seasoned with fine spicing to create a reserved whole.Prices:
BC$24.99750ml
ON$22.95750ml
QC$20.00750ml
MB$21.95750ml
Producer: Weingut Balthasar Ress
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Rieslingfreak No. 8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer Rieslingtext
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Rieslingfreak No. 8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer Riesling 2017

Polish Hill River, Clare Valley, South Australia, AustraliaLike BC's Synchromesh winery, Rieslingfreak walks a line, both with us, and with nature, pitting the crazy residual sugar 58 g/l with 10.2 g/l acid. A massive swell of acidity rises the palate, filling the mouth far beyond the 6 degrees alcohol would let you believe. Delicate, but with density, this flows with honeysuckle, pear, kiwi and grapefruit, scented with roses. This is sourced from the same few rows every year, planted east/west in the Jaeschke Vineyard in Polish Hill. A true Riesling Freak.Prices:
BC$35.00750ml
Producer: Rieslingfreak
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