Tastings: November 2020

20 November 2020

85PTS

Calliope Figure 8 Red 2018

British Columbia, CanadaFigure 8 blends cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot from the southern Okanagan into a warming, smoky, dusky big red. Blocky in structure, with dusty cherry, blackberry housed with powdery tannins to a warming finish. One to crack with grilled burgers or meatballs.Prices: BC 19.98 AB 16.00 MB 26.00 Producer: Calliope Wines

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85PTS

Bartier Bros. The Orchard Row 2018

Summerland, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Orchard Row is an unlikely mix of cabernet franc, merlot, gamay, and pinot noir, with a 15 month stint in neutral French barrels. The unlikely sounding mix doesn't come together any easier on the palate, with green, herbal edged cassis, soft cherry, milk chocolate, plum, and forest floor all jockeying for position. Tannins are powdery and the frame blocky to a warming finish. Try with a slight chill and partnering with grilled veg or beef burgers.Prices: BC 36.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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84PTS

Unsworth Vineyards Symphony 2017

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaA blend of four Vancouver Island grown hybrids (cabernet libre, labelle, 0583, and petit milo), this aged 20 months in French and American oak. The wood is very much up front and present, bashing up against the green-tinged, sour cranberry, red currant, cassis fruit. The palate is quite warming (though only 13.5%) and short, with soft, lightly gummy tannins on the sides. This very hefty bottle comes across more like a wood symphony at this point in time, illustrating why bigger reds and the Wine Islands usually make for an uncomfortable fit.Prices: BC 24.25 Producer: Unsworth Vineyards ULC

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86PTS

Schell Wines Ruby 2016

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaPencil shavings, cedar staves, hard-press cassis leads this blocky red blend, a 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon aged in French and American oak (40% new). There's a juicy core of black fruit, but the tannins stick out around the edges, coming in for a warming close. Best taken with grilled beef dishes.Prices: BC 33.95 Producer: The Westbury Wine Group Inc.

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88PTS

Château la Grolet Cuvée Classique Rouge Côtes de Bourg 2018

Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, FranceChâteau La Grolet is a 17th-century manor house at the bottom of a valley surrounded by its 50-hectare estate, including 38 hectares of vines. The Hubert family acquired the estate in 1997 and began its conversion to biodynamics, with Demeter certification coming in 2000. This blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc comes from vines averaging 50 years in age and off steep gravel/clay slopes. This was native fermented in concrete before a rest in older wood. Ripe cherry plum is woven with leather, espresso, and earth and cut with a red current acidity that keeps this bright. Tannins are moderately grippy and coated with dusty gravels, welcoming partnering with lamb or pork.Prices: ON 24.95 Producer: Chateau la Grolet

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87PTS

Mar de Lisboa Atlantic Coast Vinho Tinto 2015

Central and Southern Portugal, PortugalThis blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Syrah comes from Portugal's coastal Lisboa region. The red and white stripes on the capsule mimic the lighthouses dotting the Lisboa coast. Soft and easy, but held fresh, with ripe black plum, cassis, subtle violets, and cracked pepper. Tannins are raggedy sticky to a shorter finish. A simple red for burgers or roasted eggplant.Prices: BC 19.99 Producer: Quinta de Chocapalha

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0PTS

Oscar's Quevedo Red 2018

Douro Valley, Northern Portugal, PortugalCorked. Try another one.Prices: BC 17.99 Producer: Vinhos Oscar Quevedo

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88PTS

Poplar Grove CSM 2016

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaIt's been several years since I last had a look at this wine. In 2016 the mix was cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and syrah. The nose is almost aromatic with savoury desert scrub notes, cedar, and balsamic spice. On the palate, the fruit is red and fresh with more spice before the soft textures take over and run to a long peppery, espresso, mocha finish. Drink with lamb now or hold for another three to five years in bottle.Prices: BC 30.35 Producer: Poplar Grove Winery

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86PTS

Five Vineyards by Mission Hill Cabernet Merlot 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaAn entry-level cab/merlot drawing fruit from across the Okanagan Valley, it opens with a cedary savoury nose that tumbles onto the palate, mixing dry, rustic tannins with ripe chocolaty, black fruit. The flavours are fresh if a bit choppy but nothing a hamburger or beef taco wouldn't soften up. Simple, ready to drink, mid-week red.Prices: BC 16.99 AB 15.00 SK 17.99 MB 17.00 ON 17.00 QC 17.00 Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate

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89PTS

Chateau Montus 2013

Madiran, Sud-Ouest, FranceAn 80/20 mix of tannat/cabernet sauvignon that comes standard with an opaque colour. The nose is aromatic with a big savoury hit of dried herbs and cherry aromas. It's aged in 80 percent new oak, adding even more power to the mix, but it seems to answer the rich black fruit flavours mixed with cedar and leather notes through the finish. There is fine freshness here, lending some overall balance to the final picture as big as it is. Bst with grilled led lamb or similar big mu items. A giant of a wine.Prices: BC 34.99 QC 29.35 Producer: Vignobles Brumont

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87PTS

Mission Hill Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaA dark, slightly more polished version of the Five Vineyard Cab Merlot, the fruit is just a touch riper here, and the tannins follow the storyline, albeit with softer edges. On the palate, a spicy, cedary, cherry fruited red slides down easily. It delivers in a category that seldom offers much value at the $20 mark. Ready to drink. Try this with beef or pork.Prices: BC 20.99 Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate

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87PTS

Running Duck Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2019

Western Cape, South AfricaDucks apparently play an important role in Stellar Winery's organic viticulture program, roaming for snails and other pests, hence the name Running Duck. This is quite savoury and surprisingly complex for the price. It's laden with smoke and tar alongside fresh, characterful red fruits. Medium-bodied, it's bright and juicy with modest tannins. It's not overly concentrated, but that's clearly not the intended style. Rather, it's a solid everyday pour.Prices: BC 15.99 Producer: Stellar Organic Wines

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87PTS

Therapy Superego 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaSuper Ego is a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. The wine opens with a dark red colour and notes old barrels, smoke, and meat. The attack is round with more earthy, meaty, muddled black fruit mixed with dark chocolate and tobacco. Ready to drink but generally lacking some direction.Prices: BC 34.99 Producer: Therapy Vineyards

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19 November 2020

85PTS

Unsworth Vineyards Allegro 2019

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, CanadaLike last year, the 2019 Allegro is a hybrid blend of sauvignette, petit milo, and amiel, from vineyards in the Cowichan Valley, Westshore, and Saanich Peninsula. This was fermented and aged in stainless on lees. This is a lean and sharp white with tight, piercing lemon, green apple, underripe melon, and subtle white blossoms, with a screeching acidity that leaves even this acid freak gasping. There's a little lactic lees action padding this out, finishing a bit sour and short. Coastal brisk, to be sure.Prices: BC 22.00 Producer: Unsworth Vineyards ULC

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89PTS

A Vita Leukò 2019

Calabria, Italy'A Vita is located in Cirò, on the arch of Italy’s boot tip, nestled between the Ionian sea and Sila mountains. Wine has been made from Cirò since the time of the ancient Olympics. Francesco and his wife Laura de Franco moved back to his native Calabria to make wines sustainably after finishing oenology studies. They purchased 4 vineyards and 8 hectares of vines planted in the historic alberello method, with each vine staked independently to allow for maximum air and light flow. From Frassà vineyard, near sea level, this is a certified organic 70/30 blend of greco bianco and gaglioppo, with the greco receiving a few hours of skin contact before it was native cofermented, prior to 8 months in steel, on lees. It was bottled without fining or filtration. Pouring a deep golden hue, this fills the palate with a grippy, herbal, pitchy scrub of bergamot, apricot, pear, wild herbs and broken stones. Texture is high, and acidity is moderate, finishing with a gentle astringent rinse. Super interesting and detailed taste of history (and tasty too).Prices: ON 30.00 Producer: A Vita

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88PTS

Domini del Leone Veneto Bianco NV

Veneto, ItalyFidora, an organic winery in Veneto, was established in 1974, and has been organic since its inception. This non-vintage white is a cofermented blend of Pinot Grigio, Glera, Chardonnay from across Veneto, aged for 8 months in stainless on lees, with partial MLF. Gentle pear, white blossoms, is fresh and bright on the palate, to a snappy finish. A crisp, light white ideal for apero hour.Prices: ON 15.95 Producer: Fidora

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90PTS

Le Ragnaie Toscana Bianco 2018

Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany, ItalyFrom the highest planted vineyards in Montalcino, this skin contact wine blends the area's traditional white grapes in a 50/50 Trebbiano and Malvasia mix. After a native ferment in stainless for 10 days on skins, this moved into one new 500L French oak barrel for 9 months before bottling unfined, with minimum sulphur. Pouring a glowing light gold hue, this shimmers along the medium palate with tight apricot, bergamot, elderflower, and ample mineral salts. The texture is fine, and acidity is subtle but shining. A well balanced orange wine worth seeking out.Prices: ON 44.95 Producer: Azienda Agricola Le Ragnaie

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92PTS

Suertes del Marqués Trenzado 2019

Tenerife, Canary Islands, SpainFrom Tenerife's volcanic soils, this is based on Listán Blanco, with a mix of 10-150-year-old native grapes Marmajuelo, Guao, Vijariego Blanco, Verdelo, Torrontés and Baboso Blanco sourced across various vineyards 300-700m in the Valle de La Orotava, and predominantly grown in the traditional cordón trenzado training system. After native ferment in a mix of concrete and older French casks, this aged nine months on lees in concrete, foudres, and older 500L barrels. Intrinsically and fantastically marine, with a deep thread of salinity and reduction throughout the slender, medium palate of pear skin, kernel, and meadow herbs. The texture is very grippy fine, and brisk acidity keeps this vibrating along the palate to a lingering finish—such a stunner.Prices: ON 27.95 Producer: Suertes del Marqués

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89PTS

Domaine Martin Jund Edelzwicker NV

Alsace, FranceThis Colmar based family winery can trace their history in grape growing and winemaking in the region back to 1630. This is their modern take on the most historic of wine styles: Edelzwicker. An off-dry blend of pinot blanc, muscat, riesling, and gewürztraminer, this glides the silken palate with gooseberry, starfruit, white peach, and pear, slicked with anise, and finishing with a grapefruit twist. Bonus - only 12.5 degrees, and in a magnum! I only wish BC's ubiquitous aromatic white blends could nail it like this.Prices: BC 30.00 1000 Producer: Maison Martin Jund

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88PTS

The Tea Leaf 2017

Western Cape, South AfricaAs its name alludes to, the grapes used in this wine grow among South Africa's wild native rooibos (red tea) plants protected from removal and yet to be successfully cultivated anywhere else in the world. The winery says Tea Leaf is English rhyming slang for thief, linked to the grapes "stolen" off in the cool twilight hours and delivered to the winery.” The blend is 55/42/3 chenin blanc / palomino / grenache blanc, naturally fermented in old wooden barrels and stainless steel. I love the texture and feel of this wine with its fruity, wet stone nose and mineral, stony mid-palate with a hint of (and we have to agree with locals), tea. Perfect for fishcakes, seafood pasta, or a favourite sushi roll. 2018 is on the way. Most monopolies refuse to list top quality SA wines like this but have little problem buying junk wines from around the world. Too bad. Support your local independent private stores for gems like this.Prices: BC 37.00 AB 27.00 Producer: Boutinot

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92PTS

Vignoble du Reveur Un Instant sur Terre 2018

Alsace, FrancePouring a deep, hazy orange hue, this is 50% Pinot Gris, 40% Gewurztraminer, 10% Riesling, macerated for 8 months in amphora on skins, with an additional 3 months in amphora without skins. This was bottled without filtration or sulphur. Intense and full in the mouth, but with an amazing salinity and freshness, this dry wine teems with bergamot, white tea, mineral salts, honeycomb, and apricot. There's a firm, fine stencilling of tannins housing this to the lengthy finish. Beautiful harmony throughout.Prices: ON 54.95 Producer: Vignoble du Reveur

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91PTS

Vignoble du Reveur Singulier 2019

Alsace, FranceThis dry Alsatian orange is a carbonic maceration coferment of Riesling and Pinot Gris, with 10 days on skins prior to a native ferment in large oak barrels, without any additions. The wine aged for one year on fine lees prior to bottling with a very low level of sulfites. Pouring a slightly hazy, deep gold hue, this medium bodied wine streams grippy apricot and peach skin, orange blossom, and exotic florals along the sleek, saline palate. Very textural and savoury through to the dry finish.Prices: ON 39.95 Producer: Vignoble du Reveur

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91PTS

Fitapreta a Laranja Mecânica 2019

Alentejo, Central and Southern Portugal, PortugalThis is a new orange wine release from Antonio Maçanita, his Clockwork Orange. Arinto, Roupeiro, Verdelho, Antão Vaz, Alincante Branco, Trincadeira-das-Pratas, Fernão Pires make up the Alentejo coferment blend, from various vineyards and vines 15-50 years old, on granite soils. After the first whole bunch pressing, 10-15% of the remaining juice macerated on the skins for a week, and then was pressed again and reunited with the whole, where it native fermented. It remained in stainless on lees until it was bottled, unfiltered, the following fall. Pouring a hazy golden hue, this orange wine is teeming with alluring bergamot, quince, and stencilled with finely grippy tannins and that characteristic granitic hum. Fantastic texture, salinity, and moreishness in this medium bodied wine.Prices: ON 31.95 Producer: Fitapreta

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89PTS

Papantonis Winery Metron Ariston 2019

Peloponnese, GreecePapantonis Winery was established in 1993 in Nemea by siblings Antony and Kallie Papantonis. The vineyards, are situated just outside of the village Malandreni. Metron Ariston (meaning ‘moderation is best’) is a blend of Roditis (65%) and Chardonnay (35%), planted on their estate's sandy clay soils. Creamy and full in the mouth, with acacia, fragrant florals, lemon blossom, pear, offset by a bright, lifted acidity. This concentrated white tastes of the Mediterranean, but remains fresh throughout, making it particularly food-friendly.Prices: ON 21.95 Producer: Papantonis Winery

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87PTS

Lunessence Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis full, rich MRV comes from Oliver, and is filled with the southern Okanagan sunshine. The marsanne and roussanne was native cofermented in stainless, before going into French oak for 6 months (25% new). Slow and waxy on the palate, with rich honeysuckle, apricot paste, ripe peach, and ample orchard spicing on the sweeter finish. The RS feels higher due to the low acidity here, welcoming a brisk chill.Prices: BC 27.99 Producer: Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

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86PTS

gPG Garganega Pinot Grigio 2017

Garda, Verona, Veneto, ItalyAraldica is a third-generation, family operated cooperative based in Piedmont, but have expanded beyond their home region, working with local growers across Italy. This comes from garganega and 15% pinot grigio, from the Garda DOC, in between Lake Garda and Vicenza. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless (3 months on fine lees), this is a crisp, simple, snappy white with subtle melon, pear, and lemon notes. Clean (almost clinically so), this will suit simple salads or shellfish dishes.Prices: BC 14.49 Producer: Castel Boglione

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86PTS

Blue Grouse Quill Dry White 2019

British Columbia, CanadaQuill is an off-dry, aromatic Island blend of contract fruit from Cowichan and Comox, and in 2019 is made up of 35% schönburger, 26% pinot gris, 22% gewürztraminer, 17% sieberrebe, each fermented separately in tank prior to blending. Only the gris underwent MLF. There's some gentle sweetness here, made more apparent by the lowish acidity. There's a bracing passionfruit / guava bite that pierces this slight wine, pulling along pithy grapefruit, mandarin, melon to a snappy, shorter, somewhat ascerbic finish. Needs a brisk chill and some veg / seafood canapés to meet.Prices: BC 18.00 Producer: Blue Grouse Estate Winery

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89PTS

Ciù Ciù Oris Falerio 2019

Ascoli Piceno, Marche, ItalyOris is a blend of Trebbiano, Pecorino, and Passerina, grown in the towns of Offida and Acquaviva Picena, in Ascoli Piceno province at 300m. This was native fermented in stainless, and left to settle for 4 months. Shining, pale yellow, this medium bodied white leads with subtle honeysuckle, lychee, lemon, white peach, wild spearmint, fresh almonds, and a hearty shake of white pepper on the finish. Very versatile and food friendly, from green veg dishes (including artichokes) through calamari.Prices: ON 15.95 Producer: Ciù Ciù

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89PTS

Filipa Pato & William Wouters Dinamica DNMC Bical 2019

Bairrada, Northern Portugal, PortugalThis biodynamic blend of 80% Bical and 20% Arinto was grown in Bairrada's calcareous clay soils, and native fermented (10% in 500L casks; the other 90% fermented in tank), with the final blend and bottling in spring after 5-6 months’ aging. Tight and fresh, this is stencilled with pear skin and teeming with lemon blossom, elderflower, subtle melon, crystalline acidity, and the buzz of limestone minerality. This rings of the Atlantic.Prices: ON 23.95 Producer: Filipa Pato

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90PTS

Free Form White 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaRevisiting this wine now two years after first glimpse, and it's pouring a beauty slight golden hue. Super grippy, with a saline marine note, this streams apricot skin, grapefruit pith, green apple, bergamot, dried thyme and sage along a sleek, textured palate. Primarily Secrest pinot blanc, this is splashed with chardonnay and viognier, from two other vineyards in the Okanagan, all organically farmed. After destemming and a native ferment (pinot blanc in concrete, the others in neutral French oak), these remained on skins for 8 months before being pressed off and blended in a large concrete tank. It rested there for 6 weeks before bottling in Mid August 2018. Another proof positive how winemaker Matt Dumayne's wines are built for aging.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

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90PTS

CedarCreek Amphora Project 2019

East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe last time I saw this wine it was in a large amphora, topped with a thick cap of skins, Winemaker Taylor Whelan reached down through the cap and drew some of the cloudy amber wine for us to taste. It was delicious then, and it remains so now. Inspired by Edelzwicker, this is a certified organic Home Block blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, all from vines 20+ years old. They were all destemmed and wild fermented together, in the aforementioned amphora, where they remained on skins for 6 months prior to gentle foot treading. Cloudy peach in hue, this slight wine is chiseled by tangerine pulp, pith, and peel, and flooded with perfumed apricot, wild lime, peach fuzz, all tightened with a slight tannic riff, and rinsed with a grapefruit astringency on the pristine finish. Really lovely first attempt, and one I hope they'll continue with.Prices: BC 34.99 Producer: CedarCreek Estate Winery

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92PTS

Manuel Pulcini Marròca 2018

Tuscany, ItalyYoung winemaker Manuel Pulcini grew up in the vineyards and winery of his parents, which imprinted into him a passion for the lands. After oenology school in Pisa, he turned his focus to biodynamic winemaking, and began renting and resting abandoned vineyards. He now is caretaker of approximately 2.5 hectares of vineyards, primarily around San Macario a Monte in the province of Lucca. His goal is simple: to make minimal-intervention, honest wines to celebrate the ancient viticultural traditions of this region. This rising naturalist producer has won the respect of the local elders, earning him the nickname of 'amico dei nonni,' or friend of the grandpas. Manuel sees himself as a generational link, thankfully for us, and our future. This blend of trebbiano, malvasia, vermentino, and others is as mesmerizing as its singular blue label of Marròca, an aloof but dangerous mythological being who lurked in nearby wells, and was rumoured to snatch children who came too close. Stunning, and striking, with wild lemon, grapefruit pith, hay, pine nut, wild herbs shimmering along the vibrant palate, with streaking acidity and a lengthy, mineral salted finish. There's a slight grip to the sides, hemming in the slight 12% frame. Lovely fine balance in this harmonious, characterful, moreish wine.Prices: BC 45.00 Producer: Manuel Pulcini

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88PTS

Pulpoloco Sangria White NV

SpainA ready to pour sangria mix already bottled, the instructions are to add fruit and ice to a glass and pour this in. The wine is made using a traditional Spanish recipe mixing airen with extracts of orange peels, spices, Mediterranean lemons, and grapes. I have to say it is very intoxicating and would be fun to sip on a hot afternoon. They say it goes great with guacamole and empanadas, so let's stop there. Great value and big fun too.Prices: BC 13.99 Producer: Spanish Story

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91PTS

Domaine Rolet Côtes du Jura Tradition 2012

Côtes du Jura, Jura, FranceThough it doesn't say Tradition on the Canadian label, this is an equal part chardonnay / savagnan, where the latter has aged under veil for 4 years, while the chardonnay was aged in barrels for 4 years. It was blended 3 months before bottling. A glowing golden hue, this shows distinct oxidative notes of dried apple, dried apricot, overtop of intense minerality, lemon pith, concentrated wild mushrooms, and honeysuckle. The finish is super saline, and incredibly long. Very savoury, and distinct, this powerful wine feels more than its 13.5 degrees.Prices: ON 44.95 Producer: Domaine Rolet Père & Fils

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18 November 2020

90PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Ariel Premier Cuvée Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2000

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaCertainly the most distinctive packaging for a sparkling wine in BC, from the most unique winery, and probably the most memorable wine story as well. A misplaced lot in the cellars was rediscovered a couple of years ago, resulting in the release of this ultra-premium 1998 cuvée. The 2000 is the follow up, a blend of 68/30/2 pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, disgorged in small batches since September 2019. Quite oxidative, with some vegemite notes woven amongst the hazelnut, burnished lemon, popcorn, dried apple, ample toast, and flake salts. Bubbles are still present, though this wine is ready to drink now, and on the gentle fade.Prices: BC 100.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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86PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Organic Vegan 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis Demeter certified biodynamic GV comes off 2011 planted estate vines, and was native fermented, half in stainless without skins, with the other half fermented on skins, and a very minimal amount of sulphur was used. Quite natural, with a swing of VA and some acetone leading into almonds, lemon, and dried green apple. There's a flush of warmth on the finish, along with some mineral salts.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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86PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis Demeter certified biodynamic GV comes off 2011 planted estate vines, and was native fermented, half in stainless without skins, with the other half fermented on skins, and a very minimal amount of sulphur was used. This pours a deeper yellow hue, showing potent white pepper, oxidative orchard fruits, dried apple, and an earthy hay note on the salted finish.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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87PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada2019 sees fresh, smart new packaging for Summerhill winery, with this grüner in an appropriate tall, slender bottle, and a new label highlighting both the Demeter biodynamic certification, and the iconic pyramid. This comes off 2011 planted estate vines, and the 2019 was fermented in stainless, without skins (unlike the two previous vintages). Intense and spicy, with rafts of white pepper seasoning an exotic floral bouquet, star anise, musk melon and a mid-sweet palate (17.7 g/L). Much fresher than the previous incarnations. Now if they could just make this dry again...Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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87PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe 2019 Grüner makes a strong right turn with a new bottle, new label, and a dramatically different style. The fruit comes off the original 2011 estate plantings, and it was fermented in stainless steel without any skins. The result is a fresher, cleaner wine with bright floral, peppery fruit and a surprising sweet mid-palate thanks to 17.7 g/L of residual sugar. It should be excellent with spicy Asian foods. Can we get a dry version of this too?Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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86PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaTasted alongside the 2017 and 2019, 2018 comes with a deep yellow colour, the trio's darkest. It is Demeter certified biodynamic from seven-year-old vines grown on the estate in south east Kelowna. It was native fermented in stainless steel, 50% with skins, and with minimal sulphur, explaining the early dark colour. The nose opens with tired green apple peel, and pepper, while the palate delivers an oxidative orchard fruit vibe with a grassy almond mineral finish. It is a natural wine, although I would like just a bit more freshness and purity. My advice is to drink it now.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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87PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Organic Vegan 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaA cou[le of years down the road, this wine shows some oxidation but frankly not much more than we saw in 2018. Biodynamically certified, it has a deep yellow colour with notes of volatility, grated almonds, and dried lemons. About as natural as you could want, and ready to drink. A curiosity that is hanging in there. Sablefish is still a good match. The grapes come from estate vines planted in 2011.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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90PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom the estate plantings of clone 21B, over 40 years old, this biodynamic riesling is native fermented in stainless steel before being super cooling halts the ferment leaving it an off-dry offering of significant merit. In 2018 the numbers were 31 g/L RS, with 6.3 TA, and 10.3% alcohol. It's pretty delicious right out of the gate and similar to last year with a slightly greener streak of sweet pear and juicy ripe red apple. The finish is clean and fresh, and amazingly youthful. This is a buy-to-hold recommendation this year, and we like the value here too.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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90PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom the estate plantings of clone 21B, now over 40 years old, this biodynamic riesling is native fermented in stainless. It is eventually halted by super chilling at the desired residual sugar / acid level. In 2018 the numbers were 43 g/L RS, 8.7 TA, and 10.8% alcohol. This is a terrific wine, packed full of sweet pear and ripe lime flavours cut by green apple and a peppery finish. It doesn’t quite have the elegance of a Mosel riesling, but it is getting very close. Bright, juicy, and ready to drink, it will age forever. Fine value.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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90PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaOld vines (riesling clone 21B planted in 1978) and certified Demeter biodynamic vineyards are at the heart of this riesling, fermented outdoors with the ambient vineyard yeasts in the Summerhill Vineyard in 2017. The fruit is whole cluster pressed and fermented cold and left with a healthy dose of sugar (25.9 g/L RS) to counter its naturally crisp acidity (9.8 TA). I’m impressed with how this wine has evolved in bottles putting on a little weight and intensifying its bright, stony, lime. It is a real treat, and at 11.4 alcohol, you can almost gulp it. Use the sugar to tame a favourite savoury, spicy curry dish. Well done.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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91PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Ariel Premier Cuvée Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2000

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaTasted twice this year, 2000 spent 17.5 years on it lees and the mix is 68/30/2 pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. It has been disgorged in small batches since September 2019. The nose is mature, with complex scents of toasted nuts, ginger, and leesy umami. The palate is creamy and showing age, but with citrus, gout Anglais, brioche notes throughout the middle, to a mineral finish. At this point, this wine is best drunk before it begins the long slide into oblivion. Try this with the ultimate match: caviar.Prices: BC 100.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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17 November 2020

90PTS

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2018

Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States2018 has given us very pure pinot noir packed full of black cherry. The textures are similarly inviting, with just enough structure to channel all the mouth filling fruit along the palate to an even more impressive 13.5 alcohol content. Seriously pinot like, this was once thought unattainable in California. Delicious and friendly, you can serve it with duck, mushrooms, root vegetables, soft cheeses and pork. La Crema Sonoma Coast oversees a large production of estate and grower vineyards, all within the cool, marine swept boundaries of Sonoma County. The parcels are kept separate until the final blend to capitalize on the best lots. Clones include 23, 37, 115, 667, 777, 828, Pommard, Calera, Swan, and Martini. The fermentation is done with 70 percent whole berries placed into open-top fermentation tanks. Post ferment, it's aged nine months in 98 percent (20 percent new and dwindling) French oak. Bravo.Prices: BC 38.99 AB 38.10 ON 34.95 QC 28.85 NFL 41.99 NB 39.99 Producer: La Crema

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88PTS

Murphy-Goode Pinot Noir 2018

California, United StatesA California wine shop staple, this pinot noir hits all the pinot varietal buttons from its bright red fruits, mouthfilling, earthy, cran-cherry, and soft tannins. Fresh, mouthwatering acidity balances the ripe fruit before ending in a savoury, smooth finish. Ready to drink.Prices: BC 27.49 NB 26.99 MB 21.99 Producer: Murphy-Goode

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88PTS

A to Z Pinot Noir 2017

Oregon, United StatesA to Z Wineworks was started in 2002 by Oregon wine industry veterans Deb Hatcher (Eyrie), Bill Hatcher (Domaine Drouhin Oregon), Sam Tannahill (Archery Summit), and Cheryl Francis (Chehalem). This larger volume, entry-tier wine comes from more than 50 vineyards throughout the state, though this is classic Willamette on the nose, with pretty perfumed plum, tight raspberry, green herb note that carries through to the silken palate. Tannins are slight, and the finish is snappy. Best taken with a light chill and simple fare.Prices: ON 27.95 Producer: A to Z Wineworks

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88PTS

Cirro Pinot Noir 2018

Marlborough, South Island, New ZealandCirro is a classic Marlborough pinot: soft, round, and juicy. On the nose it has a strong mossy note mixed with spicy cherry, raspberry, red currant. Brown spices and bitter cherry previews an earthy, spicy finish. Serve with any mushroom dish.Prices: BC 27.99 Producer: Viscosity Ltd.

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88PTS

Undurraga Sibaris Pinot Noir Gran Reserva 2018

Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, ChileAs the years tick by, it is clear the world is catching up to Burgundy when it comes to pinot noir. It's not that they are creating Côte d'Or reds that rival the French standard, but they are making wines that respect the grape, and they seem to be getting the most out of their terroir. Case in point, Sibaris 2018. This Leyda Valley pinot noir opens with earthy, forest floor that underlies a sweet pinot entry full of ripe, cherry before finishing with a touch of poultry spice. Clean, fleshy and at 13.5 percent alcohol, very drinkable. Good value at $18.Prices: BC 17.49 Producer: Viña Undurraga

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89PTS

Erath Pinot Noir 2018

Willamette Valley, Oregon, United StatesThis wine had me at $24, given the madness in pricing that accompanies pinot noir, but I'm happy to report tasting it is equally satisfying. If you are in the US, you can find it for $14-$15 at Costco. The wine is crafted to be ready to drink based on its juicy, plummy, cherry fruit and soft, slippery tannins. Uncomplicated, with a hint of earth, spice, and forest floor, this wine is perfect for chicken fajita or pork lettuce wraps.Prices: BC 32.00 AB 27.95 PEI 29.99 NB 29.99 NS 27.99 NFL 30.99 Producer: Erath Vineyards

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88PTS

Lake Sonoma Pinot Noir 2018

Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United StatesThe Stewart Family, pioneering third-generation West Coast winemakers who founded BC's Quails' Gate Winery, owns Lake Sonoma Winery. We tasted earlier this year, and seven months down the road, it remains a solid bottle of pinot full of bright cherry, baking spices, and vanilla. Soft, mouth filling and ready to drink, you can serve it with duck, pork, and chicken.Prices: BC 29.50 AB 31.99 MB 32.95 Producer: Lake Sonoma Winery

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88PTS

Château d'Antugnac La Closerie des Lys Pinot Noir 2018

Limoux, Languedoc, South of France, FranceThis comes from higher altitude vines. After 3 days of cold soak, half the destemmed fruit is native fermented and raised in steel while the other half undergoes its élevage in wood (10% new). Bright and fresh, this shines with cranberry, red currant, fresh raspberry, running along a sleek, salted palate. Certainly high in acidity, and delightfully so, enjoy this youthful pinot with wild mushrooms, and wild salmon. Fantastic value.Prices: BC 22.99 Producer: Collovray & Terrier

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88PTS

Rodney Strong Russian River Pinot Noir Estate Vineyards 2016

Russian River, Sonoma County, California, United StatesThis is a big, bold pinot noir from Russian River Valley. Expect ripe, jammy fruit that's awash in cinnamon and sweet spices from aging 14 months in French oak (35% new). At this level of ripeness, and 14.5% abv, it's a bit flat and lacking freshness, with a smattering of chalky tannins. Moderate length. Best enjoyed with a slight chill.Prices: BC 28.00 AB 27.00 US 19.00 ON 25.00 Producer: Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards

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16 November 2020

87PTS

Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United StatesFrom the Santa Lucia Highlands and 5th generation winemaker Charlie Wagner comes this Cali stalwart chardy. Full, sweet, and ripe, with vanilla, baked pears, lemon, white peach, floral honeysuckle, on a plump palate. The finish sticks and stops slightly short, with sweet ginger spicing. Enjoy now with richer crab cakes.Prices: BC 34.99 AB 35.00 MB 35.00 ON 34.95 Producer: Mer Soleil Vineyard

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89PTS

Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay Couvent des Jacobins 2018

Burgundy, FranceYou seldom find any white Burgundy that delivers like this label at $32. Traditionally a mix of fruit from the Côte Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, but lately, Jadot has added a portion of Côte d'Or to improve the quality significantly. Look for toast, baked apple, pear that tumbles onto the palate where they mix with citrus and a creamy undercarriage. Pair with citrus seafood dishes. Well done.Prices: BC 31.99 Producer: Maison Louis Jadot

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86PTS

Sterling Vineyards Collection Chardonnay NV

California, United StatesAvailable in a slick 375ml aluminum cylinder, a modern presentation for a more classic style of California chardonnay. The nose is a mix of honey and baked apple. The palate similar, with round, smooth vanilla, citrus, butter baked apple, and light mineral notes. Simple and ready to drink. A format that is perfect for hikers and beachgoers.Prices: BC 10.49 375 AB 7.99 375 MB 9.50 375 ON 9.95 375 YK 11.45 375 Producer: Sterling Vineyards

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86PTS

Lindemans Chardonnay (Can) 2018

South Eastern Australia, AustraliaAt $9 equivalent bottle price, the 250ml can chardonnay overdelivers. The style is fresh with aromatic notes of peach and citrus. A touch of butter smooths out the fresh peach and lemon that coats the palate. Juicy and flavourful, this is a terrific picnic wine. Simple, well made, and ready to drink.Prices: BC 2.97 250 AB 4.99 250 SK 4.99 250 MB 4.40 250 ON 0.00 250 QC 4.50 250 NS 3.99 250 NFL 5.99 250 Producer: Lindemans Wines

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87PTS

Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United StatesThe Santa Lucia Highlands, located within Monterey County, is the foggy, windy, cool home of this chardonnay made by 5th generation winemaker Charlie Wagner of Caymus fame. I can honestly say it's fresher, with better acidity, in 2018, which is good, but it remains buttery and intense with vanilla, baked apple, brown spicing that is more of a throwback style than new wave. Serve with fresh cracked crab or lobster.Prices: BC 34.99 AB 35.00 MB 35.00 ON 34.95 Producer: Mer Soleil Vineyard

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88PTS

Louis Latour Chardonnay Bourgogne 2018

FranceThanks to their vast array of vineyards to choose from, the mega-negoc Louis Latour can easily piece together a very well knit and layered Bourgogne chardonnay from the region's clay and limestone soils. With an average vine age of 30 years, this was fermented in stainless with partial MLF, before aging there for 8-10 months. Creamy and lemon-led, with green apple, green pear, and lemon blossoms, to a gentle finish. Simple, classic, and identifiably Bourgogne, this is a great choice for the price.Prices: BC 25.99 AB 18.99 SK 25.49 MB 23.99 ON 22.95 QC 19.40 NB 29.99 NS 28.98 NFL 16.95 YK 29.95 NWT 16.95 Producer: Maison Louis Latour

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92PTS

Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais Blanc Vinification Bourguignonne 2018

Beaujolais, Burgundy, FranceTerres Dorées is land of the golden (clay-limestone) slopes, and where leading Beaujolais non-interventionist elder statesman, Jean-Paul Brun, owns 39ha. He makes two Bojo Blancs: this wood-rested one, and another completely inox wine. From 30-40 year old vines, this was long and slowly barrel and foudre fermented, with 5% new wood, and with full MLF. Fortunately the soils here keep this wine bright and shining, bed by a finely creamy, leesy mid, laced with fine lemon pith and peel. This lingers with a saline rinse. Earlier this year Brun told me he's seeing a big rise in Beaujolais Blanc because people are planting chardonnay for crémant. Drinking beautifully now, and with short term cellaring.Prices: BC 31.00 Producer: Jean-Paul Brun

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87PTS

Lake Sonoma Chardonnay 2018

Russian River, Sonoma County, California, United States45% of this Russian River Chardonnay is barrel fermented in 30% French oak (15% neutral barrels), with the remainder fermented in stainless steel. 75% of the juice goes through a softening malolactic fermentation during its one year of ageing. The result is a fresh wine with notes of pear, pineapple, butter, and vanilla. The palate is similar with more ripe peach, pear, melon, and mandarin. A New World chardonnay that pairs well with grilled scallops, buttered clams, Dungeness crab, and seafood pasta.Prices: BC 26.99 AB 22.50 SK 23.97 MB 24.96 ON 28.00 QC 27.95 NB 26.49 PEI 27.23 YK 26.65 Producer: Lake Sonoma Winery

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91PTS

Domaine des Deux Roches Macon-Villages Tradition 2018

Mâcon-Villages, Mâconnais, Burgundy, FranceThis wine was a great reminder of how far French winegrowing has come in the past 20 years, aided and abetted by the next generation. Mâcon-Villages was a simple appellation when I was young, but this wine has so much more verve and character. The property is run by brothers Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, along with their wives (who are sisters). In 1986, they joined forces to manage the family vineyard first planted in 1928 by Collovay’s grandfather. The vines are intertwined between the ancient massive rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, hence the Deux Roches. In the end, the rolling limestone hillsides with pockets of clay are the energizer for this delicious drinking, stony, mineral chardonnay, with some perfectly ripe red fruit to juice up the finish further. Seafood, chicken, vegetarian dishes all fit here. Good value.Prices: BC 29.99 Producer: Collovray & Terrier

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13 November 2020

92PTS

Mamete Prevostini Nebbiolo Botonero 2018

Valtellina, Lombardy, ItalyAlpi means Alps, the mountanous chain in the North of Italy. Retiche means Rheatic, the portion of the Alps in Valtellina close to the Swiss border. The Prevostini family planted vines here more than 70 years ago, and still are hands-on in the vineyards and winery. The appellation IGT Alpi Retiche indicates that these nebbiolo (called chiavennasca locally) grapes come from terraced vineyards in the province of Sondrio. From altitudes up to 700m and a mix of sand, silt, limestone, and granite soils, this was done entirely in stainless, where it remained for 8 months post-ferment. Here you are seeing nebbiolo naked, as it were, without the structuring cloak of oak. Though, certainly if any grape has the intrinsic structure and tannins to stand rigid without oak, nebbiolo would be it. Black cherry, wild cassis, medicinal red currant, perfumed wild strawberry, rose petals stream through the pure, slender, medium-bodied palate, propped by firm, tightly grippy tannins. Acidity is alpine brisk, and the finish lingers. An alluring and finessed approach to this brilliantly belligerent grape.Prices: BC 36.00 Producer: Mamete Prevostini

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90PTS

Bruna Grimaldi Nebbiolo d’Alba Bonurei 2018

Serralunga, Cuneo, Piedmont, ItalyThe Grimaldi Nebbiolo d'Alba is crafted to be elegant, and a red wine you can drink sooner than any of its big brother cousins Barbaresco or Barolo. The fruit comes off several sites ranging from southeast to southwest exposures at altitudes between 250-450m. The classic ferment is aged 12-15 months in 500 and 700 litre tonneaux. The colour is pale orange-red, the nose earthy with some of those tarry red cherry aromas the spill on to the palate. Here the dryness and the acidity kicks in, so you know you're drinking Italian red wine from Piedmont, and you begin to think about pasta all'uovo, pasta with rich sauces, grilled meats, raw beef, and mature cheeses.Prices: BC 29.99 Producer: Bruna Grimaldi

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91PTS

Albino Rocca Dolcetto d'Alba 2019

Alba, Cuneo, Piedmont, ItalyAlbino Rocca's Dolcetto d'Alba is drawn from a 40+ year old single vineyard in Barbaresco, with a mostly east to south-east exposure. At this age, the yields are self-limiting, offering high quality fruit in most years, and something special in a year like 2019. In some ways, the reputation of Dolcetta d'Alba does this wine little credit. The fruit is all stainless steel fermented and aged, releasing the purity of its fruit. The nose and attack are all about cherries and cranberry set against a floral background. Youthful, exuberant, and fun to drink, it works with a variety of classic northern Italian dishes, including anything with mushrooms and truffles, be it risotto or pasta or pizzas.Prices: BC 29.70 Producer: Albino Rocca

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92PTS

Albino Rocca Rosso di Rocca Langhe Nebbiolo 2019

Langhe, Cuneo, Piedmont, ItalyThe death of Angelo Rocca in 2012 reshaped the winemaking team at Albino Rocca, with Angelo's son-in-law Carlo Castellengo, and Angelo's daughters Paola, Monica, and Daniela taking over. The Rosso di Rocca is a blend of nebbiolo and a dash of cabernet franc. The source stems from a 2016 acquisition of a vineyard south in Magliano Alfieri, on the left side of the river Tanaro, plus a few parcels in East Barbaresco. The style is very much Albino Rocca, offering up a fragrant softish red, plenty of flavour and concentration, and an uncanny drinkability factor, especially when paired with traditional but simple Italian regional dishes. The wine sees no wood and is finished at 13.5 percent alcohol. The sample I tasted was under cork; it is also bottled under screwcap.Prices: BC 32.60 Producer: Albino Rocca

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89PTS

Giovanni Rosso Nebbiolo Langhe Rosso 2017

Piedmont, ItalyIt was unusually warm in Piedmont in 2017, although calling warmer vintages unusual is becoming as dodgy as some of the wines that come from them. In this case, a bit of warmth might be welcomed in the vineyards, but it’s the elegance of this nebbiolo that is harmed, so unlike 2016, it sings a little less. That said, many will like this California-like vintage that leaves the fruit softer and rounder and more fun drink now. It’s a matter of style, and it will have its champions. Sticking to what’s normal or authentic, this is less so, at least for the moment. On that note, buy, drink, and enjoy it now through the next five years. Certainly, it would be a good bet with turkey this holiday season.Prices: BC 28.99 ON 30.00 Producer: Giovanni Rosso

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12 November 2020

88PTS

Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2019

Verona, Veneto, Italy2019 continues the Tommasi reset of its grigio, starting with a screwcap closure. There has been a 180 change in direction here since the cork was dropped, leaving mineral, clean, bright white wine from front to back that will attack your palate with fresh pear and lees and a light dusting of honey. Ready to drink. Any west coast shellfish dish will work here.Prices: BC 19.99 ON 16.95 QC 17.00 AB 18.00 MB 17.00 NB 16.00 Producer: Tommasi Viticoltori

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89PTS

Painted Rock Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaAn overall cooler vintage that finished late and included a long period of smoke-filled skies has given BC an excellent harvest of ripe fruit, free of sugar bomb bunches. The picking began in October and finished up in early November. The blend is 77/23 syrah/cabernet sauvignon, where each variety is fermented separately before ageing in 30 percent new French oak barriques. It is a classic Australian mix made in a Bordelais style on Skaha terroir: full-flavoured and boisterous upfront, with a whack of blue fruit and meaty flavours flecked with black pepper and vanilla. Long, silky, warm, and showy, this will have a wide appeal to those who prefer a hedonistic style of red wine. Steak anyone?Prices: BC 39.99 Producer: Painted Rock Estate Winery

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87PTS

Langmeil Steadfast Shiraz Cabernet 2017

Barossa Valley, South Australia, AustraliaSteadfast is 54/46 shiraz/cabernet sauvignon matured in seasoned American and French oak for six months. It’s all Barossa and multi-regional with fruit from Dorrien, Light Pass, and Eden Valley. Interestingly, the Lindner family of Langmeil Winery has been immersed in Barossa’s culture of farming, food, wine, and community for six generations. 2017 marked a return to a more normal harvest with perfect rain additions, few if any heat spikes, and a much later ripening, thanks to cooler temperature. The wine is medium dark in colour and awash in ripe juicy red and black fruits, flecked with leafy savoury notes. The finish is a sweet and sour affair with soft tannins. Best served with smoky barbecue ribs.Prices: BC 27.99 AB 22.00 ON 22.00 MB 27.00 Producer: Langmeil Winery

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86PTS

Front Row Shiraz/Mourvedre/Viognier 2018

Swartland, Coastal Region, South AfricaThe second time around, Front Row remains a soft, ready to drink red with all the hallmarks of a commercial, South African red. It is a mix of shiraz, mourvèdre, and viognier from Swartland. The fruit is purchased on long-term contracts to create a value for money blend. The style is light and fresh, with peppery, meaty mocha and a touch of salt in the finish. A straightforward red wine that delivers for its price point.Prices: BC 12.99 Producer: Stefan Basson

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11 November 2020

88PTS

Tenuta Civranetta Pinot Grigio 2019

Veneto, ItalyFidora was established in 1974 in Veneto, and has been organic since its inception. This single vineyard pinot grigio pours a deeper yellow hue, and is full in the mouth with white florals, white peach, lemon blossom, and tangerine, through to a spiced finish. There's a pad of lees plumping this out and upping its food-friendliness. Easy to enjoy with numerous salads or white fish. Great value.Prices: ON 16.95 Producer: Fidora

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89PTS

Attems Pinot Grigio 2018

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, ItalyScared of Italian pinot grigio? Give this a whirl. From Friuli's low laying Gorizia hills and their marls, sandstone and clay, and near 20 year old grigio vines, this was fermented in steel and 10% barriques, prior to a four month rest in the vessels on lees. The lees is very much felt here on the round, plumped palate, cushioning pear, honeysuckle, white peach, and yellow plum on the 12.5 degree palate. There's a delicate fine spicing on the finish. Lovely ease and freshness to this substantial wine; would be ideal with fresh halibut or sablefish.Prices: BC 25.99 AB 21.95 ON 19.95 QC 18.95 NB 18.80 Producer: Conti Attems S.r.l.

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86PTS

Lindemans Pinot Grigio (Can) 2018

South Eastern Australia, AustraliaThere are no surprises in Lindeman’s Bin Series wines, meant to be fresh, clean, ready-to-drink, and varietally-correct. Like all other Lindeman offerings, you may not know that it is mothered by Lindeman’s Bin 65 Chardonnay, which was first launched in 1985 as wine made to meet a price point in Canadian monopolies. Bin 65 went on to be a bestseller for decades. The pinot grigio, shaped after its Italian cousin, is leaner, fresher, and mixes lemon and green apple notes with a hint of grapefruit acidity. Simple, affordable, and highly desirable in 250ml cans, perfect for the beach.Prices: BC 2.49 250 AB 4.79 250 SK 4.99 250 MB 4.40 250 ON 4.45 250 QC 5.95 250 NB 4.95 250 PEI 5.49 250 NS 3.99 250 NFL 5.95 250 Producer: Lindemans Wines

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90PTS

Attems Pinot Grigio 2018

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, ItalyTasted first at the property and now a year later, this pinot gris is as good as it gets on this market, and is still full of life. From the famed Fruili DOC, it is grown on three distinct terroirs of sand, clay, and compressed sand. The differences allow the fruit to express itself in unique ways, adding just enough complexity to the mix to make it highly enjoyable on the palate. The acidity is fresh, and the combination of almonds, melons, juicy pear, and honey invite you to finish the bottle. Simply prepared fish is a good bet, but why rush? It is getting better in the bottle.Prices: BC 25.99 AB 21.95 ON 19.95 QC 18.95 NB 18.80 Producer: Conti Attems S.r.l.

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90PTS

CedarCreek Platinum John Simes Vineyard Pinot Gris 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis 0.5-hectare north-facing vineyard is the coolest, latest ripening site on the eastern shores of Okanagan Lake, and the perfect source for this electric pinot gris. The fruit is certified organic, as are the yeasts fermented in a mix of stainless steel, concrete, and oak. The wine is fragrant with a reductive, leesy, citrus note that excites aficionados, and leaves casual drinkers less than enthused. Be that as it may, it is a terifffic bottle of wine offering bright citrus, lemon, lime, and stony minerality with texture and length. Complex and thought-provoking, this is more like Fruili and amen to that. Nice touch to name this wine after John Simes, recognizing his role in laying the foundation for all of Anthony von Mandel's wines. Kudos to Taylor Whelan.Prices: BC 29.99 Producer: CedarCreek Estate Winery

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88PTS

CedarCreek Platinum Block 7 Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2019

British Columbia, CanadaA better version of Block 7 appears in 2019, spurred on by “not to warm days and not too cool nights,” says winemaker Taylor Whelan. An extra cool September and October added hangtime to intensify the flavours. The underlying stony-ness in 2019 and what seems like a more reductive, leesy style has given the wine better balance, but make no mistake; the wine is riper and sweeter than the normal spectrum of pinot gris in the market with 8.1 g/l of residual sugar. Many will be attracted to its honeysuckle nose and full flavoured baled pear, ripe melon, flecked with salted caramel. Serve well-chilled.Prices: BC 29.99 Producer: CedarCreek Estate Winery

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89PTS

Hillside Heritage Series Pinot Gris 2019

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Heritage Gris is all Naramata fruit grown at Umoya and Davies Vineyards, although some Hungarian oak seems to have given this wine a touch of Hungary on the palate. The nose is floral and full of orchard fruit with orange blossoms and vanilla for support. Winemaker Kathy Malone says the “ Vineyard blocks were chosen for tropical characters to complement the spicy, floral oak flavours of Tokay wood.” I like the wine and the twist of richness that suggests this would be a fine wine for the dinner table. Think creamy pesto dishes, most vegetarian casseroles, and a BC favourite, grilled halibut. The wine is made with free jun juice, two days skin contact, 58% Tokaj barrels, (15% new) with sur lie ageing for six months.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Hillside Winery

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88PTS

Township 7 Reserve Benchmark Series Pinot Gris Naramata Estate Vineyard 2019

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Benchmark Gris is made in limited amounts for ClubSeven members. The fruit is specially chosen from select Naramata sites and grown sustainably. It is fully barrel-fermented in neutral oak, lending richness and depth with no obvious oak overtones. Lemons, peaches, desert scrub, and minerality all conspire to make this a pinot gris you can sip before or during dinner.Prices: BC 26.97 Producer: Township 7 Vineyards and Wineries

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86PTS

Tightrope Winery Pinot Gris 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe grapes are all Naramata Bench, sourced from the Tightrope vineyard and the vineyards owned by the Madsen, Riccio, and Rubis families. The winemaking is simple: it is all whole-cluster pressed, cold settled for three days, racked off the solids, and cool-fermented at 14°C in stainless steel for about 30 days. The result is easy-sipping pear and apricot, with a bump of residual sugar to attract a vast crowd of wine drinkers. Serve well chilled and with spicy appetizers.Prices: BC 20.00 Producer: Tightrope Winery

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87PTS

River Stone Pinot Gris 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaMostly dry and a touch tart with floral, tropical aromas, with a mix of green melon, green apple, and peach. The palate is fresh, the acidity bright, with a nice touch of minerality. This wine is better suited to simply prepared seafood dishes like buttered clams or steamed mussels. The grapes for this 17-year-old single vineyard estate Pinot Gris were picked before the September rains.Prices: BC 20.90 Producer: River Stone Estate Winery

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10 November 2020

90PTS

Le Colombier Vacqueyras Cuvee G 2017

Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, FranceIt’s Vacqueyras in structure, with plenty of dense tannins to carry it through the next decade, but it has a softer side that makes it amazingly attractive to those who would decant and serve it now with lamb or beef. The blend is 50/50 grenache/syrah, and the style is surprisingly Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Concentrated savoury black fruits with a twist of cola, and smoky, meaty notes carry the back end before melting into a long, persistent, warm finish flecked with mint. A lot of wine for $39, and one that will improve through 2025.Prices: BC 39.99 Producer: Les Vignobles Mourre

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91PTS

Perinet Merit 2016

Priorato, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), SpainMerit is a 35/30/169/16 blend of merlot and syrah with small amounts of garnatxa and carinyena to add some classic Priorat complexity and structure to the mix. The grapes are handpicked early, reflecting their southern exposure and hot summer temperatures. That said, it is not cooked, and after a five-day cold soak, they are fermented in stainless steel tanks using carbonic maceration for 20 days. The result is a fruity style that sees no oak, and winemaker Antoni Sanchez nailed it. The palate is a mix of earthy, iron, slatey mineral notes with sour and sweet black cherry, licorice, and a savoury chocolate finish. The tannins are dense but soft, allowing you to drink this now or hold it for a decade. It's bottled unfined and unfiltered after one year in stainless steel. The Perinet Priorat DOQ wines are available at Coal Harbour Liquor Store, Sutton Place Liquor Store, Viti Liquor Store Vancouver, New District Liquor Store and Stablehouse Restaurant.Prices: BC 41.00 Producer: Perinet

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94PTS

Perinet 2016

Priorato, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), SpainPerinet is classic Priorat, combining a 31/26/20/18/5 mix of garnatxa, carinyena, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot in stainless steel. The various varieties ripen at different times across the estate vineyards and are picked and sorted by hand. Each lot goes through a 1-2 day cold soak before fermentation. Perinet uses a gas rumbling technique to break up the cap during fermentation, and the macerations often last beyond 30 days. The ferment is racked into 40% new and 55% 1-year old French oak barrels, In 2016, 5% of new American oak is added for toasty/spicy notes. The opening is slightly lifted with juicy, ripe, perfumed black raspberry streaked with balsamic and sweet baking spices. The long palate is stony and mineral with licorice and iron notes that persist. A giant wine that is almost elegant, from an excellent vintage that invites you into its world and its sophisticated but showy style. Decant for an hour now or cellar for a decade. The Perinet Priorat DOQ wines are available at Coal Harbour Liquor Store, Sutton Place Liquor Store, Viti Liquor Store Vancouver, New District Liquor Store and Stablehouse Restaurant.Prices: BC 108.00 Producer: Perinet

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87PTS

Terra Ventoux 5 Terroirs Vielles Vignes 2018

Ventoux, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, FranceTerra Ventoux comes off five different geological terroirs spread across a 600 hectare vineyard. Terra Ventoux Les 5 Terroirs is made with grapes grown on all five of the individual terroirs, including Burgundian limestone very fragmented by erosion, white clay with limestone pebbles, sandy hills with red clay with pure broken quartz, and iron-rich red acidic soils. The blend is 60/40 grenache/syrah from 30+ year old vines. The nose is fragrant with hints of savoury garrigue, the attack soft and round with juicy fruity black plum that easily slips down. Good value and ready to drink. Serve with grilled meat and the classic Mediterranean tomato dishes.Prices: BC 16.99 Producer: Terra Ventoux

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90PTS

4 Monos Cien Lanzas 2017

Vinos de Madrid, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain4 Monos (4 Monkeys) is a project started in 2010 by 4 wine savvy friends: Javier García, Laura Robles, David Velasco and David Moreno. They work 4 hectares of their own in the Sierra de Gredos mountains, west of Madrid, as well as 10 hectares with other growers, all located in the villages of San Martín de Valdeiglesias, Cadalso de los Vidrios, and Cenicientos. Their mission is to capture the purity of the local old vine Albillo and Garnacha on these granitic soils, through the lens of organic viticulture and natural winemaking. This is 60-100 year old bush vine garnacha, along with a 5% tip of garnacha blanca and cariñena, growing on pink, white, and grey granite at 830-960m in the village of Cenicientos. This was entirely whole cluster, native fermented and with up to 43 days maceration before resting in 500L French and Austrian barrels plus 5000L French foudre for 14 months. It was lightly fined and bottled without filtration. Pouring a lighter, slightly cloudy hue, this is quite textural, with ample buzzy granitic grip woven throughout medicinal-edged plum, fragrant raspberry, darting kirsch, to a swell of heat that fans the finish. Tannins are slight, acidity is elevated, and the mouthfeel is garnacha-generous.Prices: BC 46.00 Producer: 4 Monos Viticultores

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90PTS

Domaine des Escaravailles Les Sablières Côtes du Rhône 2017

Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, FranceIf you're wondering why there's a wee beetle on the label, Escaravailles is the Occitan name for scarab beetles. The word was also used for the black-robed monks who occupied the area’s Catholic monasteries centuries ago. The domaine has been in the Férran family since the 1950s, and today amounts to 65 hectares of vineyards, 40 of which are in the rocky, clay-limestone hillsides of Rasteau. This grenache/syrah blend comes entirely from Rasteau, and from vines between 30-50 years old. This was raised entirely in concrete, where it rested for 11 months prior to bottling unfined and unfiltered. Authentically Rhone, and cloudy by intent, this is layered with resinous scrubby herbs, cassis, black raspberry and finocchiona. There's an alluring dusting of pink pepper floating throughout and lingering on the finish of this charmer.Prices: BC 24.00 Producer: Domaine des Escaravailles

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89PTS

Silvio Carta Serenata 2017

Sardinia, ItalySilvio Carta founded his eponymous company in Baratili San Pietro in the 1950’s, devoting himself to making traditional wines and spirits of the region. Sixty years on, Silvio, together with his son Elio, the latter at the head since 1973, still devote themselves to these aims. Spicy, ripe, sun-kissed red fruits fill the dry, savoury palate of this cannonau. Overripe cherry, raspberry, leather, floods the full palate, with sticky, tuggy tannins reflective of the Sardinian sunshine, and a finish of Mediterranean scrub.Prices: ON 25.95 Producer: Silvio Carta

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09 November 2020

88PTS

Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2017

British Columbia, CanadaCélestiale is the little sibling to Clos du Soleil's Signature red blend. It's also Similkameen based and the blend is similar: 38/33/13/13/3 merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot. However, this is meant to be enjoyed in its youth and is made in a fittingly approachable style. It shows a smoky nose with forward oak spice and vanillin alongside ripe black fruits. Medium-bodied, with warming 14.5% abv, the tannins are fine-grained and smooth, making this a wine to open now while you tuck Signature away in your cellar.Prices: BC 23.90 ON 26.00 Producer: Clos du Soleil Winery

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88PTS

Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2017

British Columbia, CanadaCelestial is a nod to Bordeaux, blending four Similkameen vineyards and five grape varieties: 38/33/13/13/3 merlot / cabernet sauvignon / cabernet franc / malbec / petit verdot, from Keremeos and Cawston in the Similkameen, and Osoyoos in the southern Okanagan. The superheated 2015s were barrel-aged for 15 months in French oak, and while good, it lacks the lift and energy of the 2013 or 2014. This is essentially crafted to be consumed sooner than the flagship Signature blend. The attack is young and juicy with smoky cedar, spicy black cherry, albeit with ripe, silky tannins. There is a touch of forest floor in the finish balancing the ripeness and playing to the savoury aspects of the Similkameen. Anything off the barbecue works here. Eight hundred five cases were produced.Prices: BC 23.90 ON 26.00 Producer: Clos du Soleil Winery

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88PTS

Bartier Bros. The Goal 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaEqual parts merlot and cabernet franc off Cerqueira vineyard, on the Black Sage Bench, this macerated and fermented over 26 days prior to a 17 month stint in neutral French barrels. Big black plum, cassis, blueberries, blackberries, anise rule the compact, silken palate, housed with ragged, powdery tannins, and ringed with smoke. A bigger, potent, powerhouse red that needs a couple of years, or a grilled porterhouse or portabello mushroom now.Prices: BC 36.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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88PTS

Bartier Bros. Illegal Curve 2018

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom Black Sage Bench's Cerqueira Vineyard, this merlot spent 9 days on skins in stainless over ferment, followed by 9 months in tank. It was tipped with a 6.5% barrel-aged cabernet franc before bottling. You can feel the spicy franc up against the lighter, tarter merlot here, mingling the fresh cherry and plum notes with herbaceous cedar staves. There's a smokiness that runs throughout, most likely the result of the wildfires that year. Tannins are long and fine until the warming finish (feeling much more than 13 degrees). A bit awkward solo, but best taken as intended with juicy mushroom or beef burgers.Prices: BC 25.99 AB 21.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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87PTS

Garbo Negre 2018

Montsant, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), SpainThis gutsy, rich, internationally styled Montsant blends the region's increasingly-seen syrah with merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Destemmed grapes were fermented in stainless and then fermented in used French and American oak for 4 months. Ripe and dark fruited, with sweet kirsch, blackcurrant jam, roasted coffee, and sweet baking spice filling a round palate. Tannins are slight and sticky; welcome partnering this now with ribs. Not much sense of place here, sadly.Prices: CDN 19.99 Producer: Freixenet

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88PTS

Garbo Negre 2018

Montsant, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), SpainGarbo Negre involves three non-indigenous grapes: merlot, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon. Each is fermented separately in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged briefly (120 days) in third-year French and American oak barrels for a little polishing. The nose is an intense mix of dark fruits, with a touch of meatiness and dusty, stony undertones. The palate is full-flavoured, the fruit ripe black cherry and blueberry, but at less than 14 percent alcohol, it has a sense of balance and freshness. The tannins are firm but silky, and the finish medium-long. A terrific barbecue red or winter stew companion.Prices: CDN 19.99 Producer: Freixenet

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88PTS

Bartier Bros. Illegal Curve 2018

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaWinemaker Michael Bartier is a big hockey fan, and this merlot with a dash of cabernet franc aged 9 short months in oak, comes off like his favourite hockey team: solid, if not quite Stanley Cup worthy. Spicy, smoky, savoury, fresh red fruit sloshes around on your palate in a youthful, rambunctious way, calling for more time in the bottle or some grilled beef.Prices: BC 25.99 AB 21.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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89PTS

Bartier Bros. The Goal 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaA fifty/fifty mix of merlot and cabernet franc comes with classic Bartier juicy black fruit, perfect ripeness, and balancing acidity. The fruit comes off the home estate Cerqueira Vineyard, on the middle gravel Black Sage Bench. All of the fruit goes into neutral French barrels (leaving no effect other than getting some air into the juice) over a 17 month stop. Black plums and savoury desert scrub scented blackberries finish with a wisp of smoke and stone. A youthful profile calls for a grilled steak, but this wine will settle down in two to three years, adding more nuances.Prices: BC 36.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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87PTS

Narrative Red 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaNarrative Red is a blend of cabernet franc, and merlot. Green edged, with franc's herbal pinch coming through, the cherry, raspberry and cedar is imbued with a persistent smoked wood note. Tannins are ragged and slightly powdery, finishing with a swell of warmth. An Okanagan desert red ready for drinking now.Prices: BC 19.90 Producer: Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

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88PTS

Hillside Merlot - Malbec 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaIt’s been a while since we saw this easy sipping red blend featuring two Bordeaux varieties, namely merlot and malbec. The nose is fragrant, offering up spicy coffee mixed with orange blossom and black cherry. The palate is similar, with soft, fine grained tannins and a fresh juicy finish. A lively red you can pair with roast chicken or a meaty pizza, this light, mini-Bordeaux red is all Naramata.Prices: BC 26.00 Producer: Hillside Winery

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87PTS

Blue Grouse Quill Red 2018

British Columbia, CanadaQuill is Blue Grouse's line of wines from contract fruit. In the case of Quill Red, it is comprised of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Marechal Foch, from Oliver and Cowichan, each fermented separately and aged in neutral French and American oak for 12 months. Easy and soft with black cherry, blackberry, and dark chocolate, with plush, plump tannins. An easy, put-together red for ribs or meatballs.Prices: BC 19.00 Producer: Blue Grouse Estate Winery

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88PTS

Tightrope Winery Vertigo 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaVertigo is an oddball blend of merlot, cabernet franc, and barbera that somehow works. The style is fresh and juicy with savoury, fruit-forward black plum and black cherry, and bright acidity. It’s a perfect pizza red, but it will also work with roast chicken or grilled vegetables. Vertigo is handpicked and fermented in small lots. Drink or hold over the next two to three years.Prices: BC 36.00 Producer: Tightrope Winery

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06 November 2020

92PTS

Upper Bench Riesling Limited Release 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaUpper Bench has unleashed a head-turning and heart-stopping Naramata Bench riesling. Get ready for stimulating aromas of Granny Smith apple, zesty citrus, savoury snipped herbs and a subtle whiff of petrol. It has a rain-water fresh quality that conjures up Mosel rieslings, complete with delicate jasmine fragrance and salty minerals. Laser-like lemon and lime flavours arouse the tastebuds, with a touch of stone fruit and guava. Racy and nervy, it’s bone-crunchingly dry but with a fruity mid-palate that lends terrific succulence. A blade runner of a riesling, harness its electric acidity to some pork belly, smoked salmon pizza, take out Thai, or triple cream cheese on crusty baguette. Naramata’s Upper Bench continues to impress with wines that are precise, pure and expressive, made by the genius hands of owner/winemaker (ex-Poplar Grove and Painted Rock) Gavin Miller.Prices: BC 22.00 Producer: Upper Bench Winery

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88PTS

Tightrope Winery Riesling 2019

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom their Naramata Bench estate, this was whole cluster pressed, with 14 hours of skin contact before pressing, and then ferment in stainless, stopped when the desired level of sugar was balanced. This walks the tightrope between acidity and sugar, with 4.5 g/L RS and TA 9 g/L, and lime peel cutting a sharp swath across ripe pear and Asian pear, finishing with bright lime sorbet. Nimble and high acid, take this dryish riesling with Vietnamese or Thai noodles or salads.Prices: BC 22.00 Producer: Tightrope Winery

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90PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom their estate 1977 planting of clone 21B Riesling, this biodynamic riesling was native fermented in stainless, arrested with chilling when the desired sugar / acid level was achieved. This year was 25.9 g/L RS, 9.8 TA, and 11.4%. Now, with a couple of years' age, is showing beautifully, with pulpy lime, white pepper, pear on a shining, off-dry palate. This finishes with a riffing grip, welcoming another glass or a variety of pairings.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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89PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom their estate 1977 planting of clone 21B Riesling, this biodynamic riesling was native fermented in stainless, arrested with chilling when the desired sugar / acid level was achieved. This year was held to 43 g/L RS, 8.7 TA, and 10.8%. There's a lovely balance here between sweet pear, white pepper, and green apple, with a lime pith tension drawing this along the off-dry palate. Juicy and bright, this is drinking well now.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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89PTS

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Summerhill Vineyard Riesling Demeter Certified Biodynamic 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom their estate 1977 planting of clone 21B Riesling, this biodynamic riesling was native fermented in stainless, arrested with chilling when the desired sugar / acid level was achieved. This year was at 31 g/L RS, with 6.3 TA and 10.3%. A massive infusion of white pepper leads into a sweeter palate of pear, red apple, and a kiss of lime blossom. Juicy and spicy, and very much in youth, this finishes snappy and briskly now, but will settle into itself with time.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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89PTS

Selbach Riesling (Fish Label) 2018

Mosel, GermanyRinse and repeat doesn’t sound all that appetizing, but it perfectly describes this delicious riesling that consistently outperforms the opposition for the price. Expect a crisp, dry riesling picked in the middle Mosel region on steep south-facing slopes. The style is Kabinett-plus in terms of ripeness, meaning red apple, not green. The palate is peachy fresh, and as winemaker Johannes Selbach likes to say, it is crunchy too. Great value and pairs with anything, including your holiday turkey.Prices: BC 19.99 Producer: J & H Selbach

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89PTS

Tightrope Winery Riesling 2019

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaTightrope makes two separate picks about a week apart, searching for maximum ripeness, although in 2019, this riesling is deliciously nervy, so perhaps maximum ripeness is off the table. The nose is clean and fresh, with notes of green apple, oranges, and wet stones. The palate is electric with citrus, mineral, pink grapefruit, and nectarine with a perfectly tart finish. Match with fish tacos, halibut with fruit salsa, lightly spiced sushi rolls, a favourite curry, and well, just about anything you can think about to eat. Well done.Prices: BC 22.00 Producer: Tightrope Winery

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88PTS

Therapy Riesling 2019

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaWinemaker/viticulturalist Jack Kempf continues to turn the Therapy ship around. Look for intense floral, lime blossoms, white flowers flecked with orange. Similar flavours mark the palate from front to back with some underlying mineral poking through the palate, rich in texture and minerals and a touch of complexing oxidation. No rush to drink this. You can use it as a squeeze of lemon now or wait for its full glory to jump forth by 2023-2025.Prices: BC 24.99 Producer: Therapy Vineyards

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05 November 2020

98PTS

Penfolds Grange Bin 95 Shiraz 2016

South Australia, AustraliaAs long as Peter Gago is making Grange, I have little doubt every release will be meaningful. The vintage variation will always have a hand in the outcome, but Gago's passion and his intimate connection with this historical label will likely never let it slip to even just good. In 2016 it is fabulous. Gago has already placed the 2016 Grange into one of the four great vintages in the last fifty years, including 2010, 1990, and 1971. Over the years, he says, “I've seen every variation on the theme. What extreme hasn't happened? In 2011 it was so wet you could shake the vines, and the grapes fell off. In 2008 there were 16 days of a massive heatwave with every ferment stopping in the old open fermenters. In 2020 what haven’t we seen?" 2016 Grange is a rambunctious giant of a young red wine invoking in my mind (with all respect) a note of crushed ants for all you history buffs. Unlike the RWT, this is a brazen shiraz with rich, spicy dark chocolate and blueberry, and even glossier textures. It will outlive the youngest of collectors. Its current price tag is painful, but history had proven it will only go up in price. 2016 is 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon grown across the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and at Magill Estate. It was matured 18 months in American oak hogsheads that were 100% new. Decant for two hours or more if you dare open it.Prices: BC 1000.00 AB 999.95 MB 999.99 ON 995.00 QC 995.00 Producer: Penfolds

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93PTS

Penfolds Cabernet Shiraz Bin 389 2018

South Australia, AustraliaThe most cellared red wine in Australia is 389, and 2018 marks its 60th vintage. It is an intricate blend of fruit that follows the season: cool years are heavily slanted to Barossa and Mclaren Vale, and the warmer years tap southern vineyards. In 2018 physiological ripeness favoured all regions, and winemaker Peter Gago and the squad took full advantage, picking the 57 percent cabernet sauvignon, 43 percent shiraz from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Coonawarra, Robe and Wrattonbully. All the fruit was aged in American oak hogsheads, of which 38 percent were new. That is a new high, signalling the quality of the 2018 fruit. The rest of the used barrels are usually passed down from the Grange program. Gago calls this year backward and one to wait for and less forward than many of its predecessors. Everything deepens to an amazing black forest cake lookalike on the palate (a 2018 marker according to the winemaking team) with more cherry, blackcurrant, and blueberry. Rich, powerful, and showing some oak but in its finest form, supporting not dominating. It will need a decade or more to round into form and begin to express its vast potential. Yes, you can drink it now, but why open your bottles? Drink a friend's first. You can drink this now or for the next 30 years.Prices: BC 99.99 AB 99.95 SK 99.99 MB 99.99 ON 99.95 QC 100.00 NB 99.99 NS 99.99 NFL 99.99 Producer: Penfolds

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94PTS

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2017

South Australia, AustraliaAlways one of the more inviting Penfolds reds, St Henri comes by its nature via older wood. In 2017 the 97/3 shiraz/cabernet sauvignon was harvested across Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Eden Valley, and Port Lincoln before spending a year in 2000 litre vats now over fifty years old. Unlike the warm 2018 growing season, 2017 was comparatively cool and long, playing into St Henri's strength of projecting a savoury, fruity style. The high acidity adds energy to the persistent, spicy red fruitcake, pomegranate, and dried beef notes, supplemented by a garrigue-like finish. Supple and polished, it is approachable now yet has all the hallmarks that will let it age effortlessly for a decade and beyond. Not your typical Australian shiraz, which is the story of St. Henri. A very fine effort and one of the best I have tasted. As drinkable as it is now, this will age into two decades with ease.Prices: BC 149.99 AB 149.99 MB 149.99 ON 149.95 QC 120.00 NB 149.99 NS 149.99 NF 149.99 Producer: Penfolds

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97PTS

Penfolds RWT Shiraz Bin 798 2018

Barossa Valley, South Australia, AustraliaSince its inception, I have been a fan of RWT, now tagged with Bin Number 798. The French oaked version of Grange is simply a standout. In 2018 the oak was 64 percent new, and the rest is from one year old barrels. It is a giant of wine, but it always projects a sense of linear elegance and style that only French oak can achieve. The mix of fruit is so glossy, and so RWT, Gago says they pretty much knew in the vineyard which blocks were going to make it to the final blend. "A wonderful year in a phenological sense, for lush, pure fruited, lovely svelte sort of fruits… something quite magical." Blackberry jam, black plums, white pepper, fruit cake, tobacco, and dried herbs, it is all here and, as mentioned, with an elegance that belies Australia. It's completely on the opposite spectrum of the powerful, assertive nature of Grange. A blend of grower fruit and Penfolds' own vineyards but somewhat unusual in that it is all from Barossa Valley. Gago says the blend was self-evident at the classification tasting. The blend was right, 20 minutes after the classification started. A super red for collectors. A bargain in the face of Grange and a wine that Gago hints itmight be better than the amazing 1998. As for tagging RWT, already perfectly monikered with a Bin Number, open the number dial screen on your cell phone and, well, it's not the company's finest moment. Winelovers should be thankful winemaker Peter Gago wins more than he loses at that corporate table.Prices: BC 249.99 AB 249.95 SK 249.95 ON 249.95 QC 249.50 NS 318.53 NFL 249.99 Producer: Penfolds

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92PTS

Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 2018

South Australia, AustraliaGago refers to the 407 upon reflection and respectfully as "not unlike a youthful and sprightly Bordeaux Right Bank Merlot sourced off clay – all red fruits, cranberry." Indeed, the wine is bright and the acid firm and forward, giving it substantial vitality in the glass. The fruit is multi-regional from Coonawarra, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, and Robe. It spends one year in French oak (21% new) and American oak (9% new) hogsheads. The attack begins with a cedary savoury edge screaming cabernet with a twist of persimmon. The savoury notes continue through the black plummy fruit and the bitter chocolate walnut finish. It is an impressive cabernet at a very young age. Precise and form fitting for the long haul; cellar through 2030 before you start to appraise its real value. The fruit comes from several sources. By percentage, it's Coonawarra 32, Padthaway 27, Wrattonbully 7, Barossa Valley 5, Robe 5, and it goes on. Warm autumn weather ensured phenological ripeness, bringing well-rounded tannins and tremendous varietal flavour. An exceptional vintage for cabernet sauvignon at all levels.Prices: BC 99.99 AB 99.99 SK 99.99 ON 99.95 QC 99.75 NB 99.99 NS 99.99 NFL 99.99 Producer: Penfolds

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90PTS

Penfolds Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 2018

South Australia, AustraliaOnce a single vineyard wine, Kalimna has long been a blend of shiraz from across South Australia. In 2018 the grapes were sourced from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Fleurieu, Robe, Mt Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills, Langhorne Creek before spending a year in used American oak hogsheads. The nose is awash in plummy fruit dappled in brown spice and almond. The attack is super lush and inviting thanks to a rift of savoury dried herbs and surprisingly bright acidity. Australia, you have been busy. Dark berry persists throughout until a streak of creamy milk chocolate finishes off the wine. The tannins are dense and sweet and will only prolong the wine's life without interrupting its drinkability. It's less chiselled and glossier in 2018, which will only broaden its appeal. Great value and mostly ready to drink.Prices: BC 49.99 AB 49.99 SK 49.99 MB 49.99 ON 49.95 QC 49.75 NB 54.99 NS 54.99 NFL 0.00 Producer: Penfolds

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92PTS

Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay 2018

South Australia, AustraliaThe incredibly successful Yattarna program laid the foundation for every chardonnay in the Treasury portfolio to excel and become something more than just the largest selling white variety in the world. Bin 311 is the classic example as it now sits firmly under Yattarna as a huge overachiever. The fruit sources change every year as Gago and company go after the coolest fruit of the year. In 2018 the 311 mix was Adelaide Hills, Tumbarumba, and Tasmania. After ten months in 30% new French oak barriques, the resulting juice was electric with a lemon core of acidity flecked with spicy cashews, pear, and creamy lees to balance its taut, linear styling. Impressive, to say the least, for the price, and a chardonnay style BC winemakers should consider. Get it before the prices take off.Prices: BC 49.99 AB 49.95 ON 49.95 QC 49.75 Producer: Penfolds

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04 November 2020

88PTS

Elephant Island Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThe Reserve Series of wines happens only in particular years when the grapes and vintage prove worthy of putting aside. In the case of this 2018 Reserve Chardonnay, this came from their Naramata estate Sideshow Hill Vineyard and 19-year-old own-rooted vines. This lot aged one year in new French oak, which is noticed immediately upon nosing. Sweet vanillin previews pear custard, apple butter, bright lemon curd and fragrant gardenias, firmly wrapped in that blanket of new wood. The finish trails off with a hint of butterscotch and ample nutmeg spicing. At this point, this is a lot of a lot, but it has the structure and stuffing to age over the short term, so I suggest pouring it alongside butter drawn lobster now or wait a few years when it's refined and ready for crab.Prices: BC 33.00 Producer: Elephant Island Orchard Wines

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90PTS

Elephant Island The Other Way Chardonnay 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaOn Naramata Bench, this chardonnay comes off 19-year-old own-rooted vines from the estate Sideshow Hill Vineyard and saw 3 months ageing in barrel. The purity of Naramata orchard fruit streams through here, with a bright melody of apples, spice, lemon zest, and river stone. The wood plays a backdrop to the fruit, though it will certainly support it for a few years in the cellar. Well done.Prices: BC 25.00 Producer: Elephant Island Orchard Wines

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89PTS

Bartier Bros. Chardonnay Cerqueira Vineyard 2019

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom Black Sage Bench's Cerqueira Vineyard and its calcium carbonate laced glacial till this chardonnay transmits both its vibrant terroir and its 6 months on lees in stainless. Crisp apple, river stone, lemon peel and pith ride a juicy, bright palate, with the aforementioned bed of lees to cushion to a saline laced finish. Drinking well now and will continue easily over the short term.Prices: BC 19.99 AB 23.99 Producer: Bartier Bros.

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89PTS

Tightrope Winery Chardonnay 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom Naramata's Four Shadows Vineyard, this fuller, plumper chardonnay was barrel fermented in both French wood and stainless over 2 weeks, underwent 1/3 MLF, and spent 7 months in French oak on lees. Lemon curd rules, along with apple custard, vanilla, and baked pear. Certainly Cali-leaning, but with that hallmark Okanagan freshness, this is a worthy match for crab cakes or butter chicken.Prices: BC 30.00 Producer: Tightrope Winery

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88PTS

Township 7 Provenance Series Chardonnay Vista Lago Vineyard 2018

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaVista Lago Vineyard in Oliver is the source of this 50/50 French barrique/stainless steel fermented chardonnay. 2018 is a vintage of freshness and elegance, and this chardonnay does not disappoint. The nose is a mix of wet stones and apricot skin, and the palate is similar with more lemon and peach, with a refined texture and mineral notes in the finish. Food-friendly and definitely part of the New Chardonnay market.Prices: BC 21.97 Producer: Township 7 Vineyards and Wineries

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91PTS

Therapy Chardonnay 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaJack Kempf has made a big early impression at Therapy, turning the wine and vineyard program around in a big way, as evidenced by this amazing chardonnay. It's Naramata fruit grown on the 60-acre estate vineyard, entirely whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented in French oak. Some 36 percent of the barrels were new, adding a toasty and complex dimension to the wine. The attack is creamy with a strong reductive leesy note flecked with mineral, stony ripe apricot, honey, and orange blossoms. The winery recommends foie gras over a toasted baguette, pan-seared scallops nestled on a bed of arugula, or salty goat cheese. Our advice is to prepare the food before the bottle is opened, otherwise it will be gone before you get to the food. The profile reminds me of a bit of the outstanding Penfolds chardonnay program. Should have been platinum at the LG Awards?Prices: BC 29.99 Producer: Therapy Vineyards

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89PTS

Mirabel Chardonnay 2018

East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaMatt Dumayne (Okanagan Crush Pad) is the winemaker behind the Kelowna-based Mirabel Vineyards A small amount of chardonnay has been planted on the estate but this fruit for this wine is Naramata grown. The style is lean and linear with bright acidity that allows for a full malolactic fermentation and almost a year of ageing on its lees. Dumayne is a ‘less is more’ winemaker, leaving a very pure expression of BC chardonnay. Look for tropical fruit peeking through the streamlined palate, with lots of pears, apple, and a strong mineral wet stone undercurrent. Give this some time in bottle to blossom.Prices: BC 28.00 Producer: Mirabel Vineyards

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94PTS

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Queen's Advantage Chardonnay 2017

Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaI had the chance to taste the Queen Taken Chardonnay from its inaugural 2013 vintage through the upcoming 2017 release in a recent vertical tasting. Queen Taken is a single vineyard wine located south west of the town of Oliver, beneath Mt. Kobau and the Thompson Plateau on the Golden Mile Bench DVA. It was initially tagged the Heritage Vineyard in 2013, but ever since, it was named the Dekleva Vineyard in honour of the family that first planted the unknown chardonnay clone now more than 40 years ago. The west side valley site is predominantly gravelly and coarse stemwinder, ponderosa, and ratnip soils that became washed down rubble originating from the fluvial fan deposits of the mountain above. Its exposition welcomes a very early warming sunrise. At the same time, it protects the fruit from baking in the late day thanks to the shadow of Mount Kobau, thus extending the ripening season while retaining its bright acidity, an Okanagan Valley signature. Our first look at 2017 is favourable. The fruit was harvested by hand on September 14 after several weeks of smoky skies, but there was no immediate effect with no nearby fires. The inversion layer did ramp up mildew that thrived in the humid air, so you had to be on top of that, and as you might expect, they were at Checkmate. The wine was made in three batches mixing wild ferments and various other percentages of inoculated yeats. The nose is a lovely floral affair with threads of wet stone and mineral mixed with ripe, tropical melons and citrus. The palate is equally intense, with nectarine and orange marmalade, and a dash of exotic litchi fruit. Only 8 barrels were made, all French oak, and 44 percent new; the remainder ranges from one to fourth fills. The texture and mouthfeel are as refined as possible, and bode well for another three to five years of bottle ageing.Prices: BC 85.00 BC 190.00 1500 Producer: CheckMate Artisanal Winery

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91PTS

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Capture Chardonnay 2017

Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaCapture is grown at Border Vista Vineyard on East Osoyoos Bench. It's the warmest site Checkmate pulls fruit from, and it sits just a few metres from the United States border. The single block dates back to a 1997 planting of Dijon clone 76 on finely textured, complex, low-nutrient, sandy soils. The fermentation is all in barrel, and 67 percent involves native yeast. I like how peach and tropical notes jump from the glass, yet as warm as the site can be, it still sits at 49 degrees north, adding a freshness to the wine that easily withstands regular battonage and 16 months of ageing in 46 percent new French oak. Winemaker Phil McGahan employs water bent barrels to keep the toast factor in check, allowing the bright fruit a chance to break through early on the palate. Capture is a texture and weight chardonnay but with restraint. The butter, apples, and pears give way to spice, honey, and tangerine before a lightly saline mineral finish. You can drink this now, but I suggest five years of cellaring for the best results.Prices: BC 90.00 BC 200.00 1500 Producer: CheckMate Artisanal Winery

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90PTS

Haywire Chardonnay Secrest Mountain Vineyard 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom Secrest Mountain Vineyard in Oliver, this was whole bunched pressed, fermented with native yeasts, and then aged in concrete eggs and nico bello. This year Matt used some of the hard press that went into neutral puncheons (8% overall), giving the wine an extra level of creaminess to the palate. In total, it spent approximately 10 months on lees prior to bottling. Green apple, crisp pear finishes with a tight, mineral, savoury spice that lingers on the palate. Super young, this needs time to integrate. Cellar-worthy.Prices: BC 26.90 Producer: Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

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92PTS

CedarCreek Platinum Block 5 Chardonnay 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBlock 5 sits at the top of the estate Home Block Vineyard, high above Okanagan Lake. Year two of organic farming drastically reduced the canopy and aided in developing riper flavours with less sugar, a win-win. It was wild fermented in a mix of puncheons and French oak barrels that includes a portion of texture softening malolactic fermentation over 12 months of ageing. It goes into stainless steel for six months before bottling. An early warm start and a cool finish contribute to a terrific wine under 13 percent alcohol. In the glass, it is attention-grabbing, mixing mineral, wet stones, and a reductive style with lemony, floral savoury fruit that is deliciously complex. Wow, kudos to winemaker Taylor Whelan. Good value.Prices: BC 34.99 Producer: CedarCreek Estate Winery

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89PTS

Gold Hill Chardonnay 2019

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaGold Hill's latest chardonnay release is made with young fruit (clone 96) grown in Peachland at 680 meters above sea level. The northern site has yielded some fresh fruit that was perfectly ripe when picked in late October, demonstrating why a long and slow ripening is a good recipe for chardonnay. The fermentation was relatively cool, never exceeding 18 degrees. The result is a fresh, full-flavoured chardonnay displaying lemon, green apples, mineral aspects, and an enticing wet stone finish. It should have a wide appeal and will work with a variety of foods. Good value.Prices: BC 19.99 Producer: Gold Hill Winery

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03 November 2020

88PTS

Stag's Hollow Teroldego Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard 2018

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaThis unusual Teroldego grape continues to make its mark in the south Okanagan. That is saying something for a grape grown primarily in the northeastern region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy. The colour is deep, and the nose a lovely mix of pepper and fresh black cherry. Like its predecessors, it has a nervous energy. You will find floral, black cherry, black plum notes with vanilla and chocolate dusted in savoury spice among its fresh palate. This will age for a decade, but you can drink it now with poultry dishes. Solid, again.Prices: BC 42.00 Producer: Stag's Hollow Winery and Vineyard

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86PTS

Da Vero Catarratto Vino Rosso Biologico 2017

Sicily, ItalyAraldica is a third generation, family operated co-operative based in Piedmont that remains faithful to a wine growing artisanal approach. Over time it has expanded its reach by working with local farmers and growers throughout Italy to produce authentic wine, enter Da Vero. This cooperative in Sicily has the island’s largest plantings of organic vines, and has been working with Araldica for years. Daverro means really, or naturally, in Italian. The Nero d’Avola comes off organic vineyards converted in 2007. Expect ripe black raspberry and brambleberry with grippy tannins and a dry Italian finish. Best with rustic fares like spaghetti and meatballs, casseroles, or grilled beef.Prices: BC 15.49 Producer: Araldica Vini Piemontesi

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87PTS

Cantina Tollo Mo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva 2014

Abruzzo, ItalyThis montepulciano comes from central Italy's Abruzzo region, and spent 24 months in cask before another 6 months in bottle prior to release. Simple and shorter on the palate, with pasty / sticky tannins housing dusty forest berries, blackberries, and cedar bark, finishing with a swell of warmth. Best met with equally rustic meat / mushroom stews.Prices: BC 24.99 Producer: Cantina Tollo

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91PTS

Tenute N'Anticchia 2016

Sicily, ItalyPaolo Caciorgna is a renowned Italian Oenologist having worked in some of the greatest names in Tuscan viticulture. Along with consulting to many Italian wine producers he has his own label, Pietro Caciorgna named in dedication to his Father Pietro. Paolo acquired plots of ancient ungrafted vines in the Contrada Marchesa. A selection from his three vineyards, this is 100+ year old unrooted vines, aged in stainless, and then rested for 18 months in barrel. Pencil shavings, leather, wild mediterranean scrub open this big wine, imbued with an intense medicinal cherry, cinnamon and raspberry. This is a deeply sun-ripened, wild, big red, with ample chewy, sticky tannins, reflective of the climate and area. Remarkable fresh, though quite warming on the finish, and best suited to wild boar or hearty pork dishes.Prices: Italy 36.00 Producer: Tenute Pietro Caciorgna

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90PTS

Pietro Caciorgna Guardoilvento Etna Rosso 2017

Sicily, ItalyPaolo Caciorgna is a renowned Italian Oenologist having worked in some of the greatest names in Tuscan viticulture. Along with consulting to many Italian wine producers he has his own label, Pietro Caciorgna named in dedication to his Father Pietro. Paolo acquired plots of ancient ungrafted vines in the Contrada Marchesa. Dark, dusky, and herbal, with a massive wild Mediterranean scrub in this full bodied red. Tannins are big, grippy, and wild, and there's a cool mint that runs the length of this. Great presence.Prices: Italy 16.00 Producer: Tenute Pietro Caciorgna

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90PTS

Pietro Caciorgna Ciaurìa Etna Rosso 2019

Sicily, ItalyPaolo Caciorgna is a renowned Italian Oenologist having worked in some of the greatest names in Tuscan viticulture. Along with consulting to many Italian wine producers he has his own label, Pietro Caciorgna named in dedication to his Father Pietro. Paolo acquired plots of ancient ungrafted vines in the Contrada Marchesa. Medium in hue, with ample medicinal cherry, raspberry, infiltrated with a bushel of wild Mediterranean scrub on the medium-bodied palate. Tannins are sticky, and acidity is brisk, reflective of the soils and altitude.Prices: Italy 14.00 Producer: Tenute Pietro Caciorgna

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89PTS

Vino Lauria Scoglitti Frappato 2018

Sicily, ItalyFrom 3rd generation winemaker Vito Lauria, Vino Lauria is based in the northwest corner of Sicily, though fruit for this bottle comes from the eastern island's sandy soils, and an altitude of 600-1000m. After some youthful reduction blows off, the wild, scrubby herbs, sapid cherry, and fragrant raspberry shines, with tight, fine, grippy tannins over a base of concrete. The acidity is lifted, making this authentic, lighter red perfect for a light chill.Prices: ON 24.00 Producer: Vino Lauria

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October 2020