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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Cabernet sauvignon may be the most planted grape variety in the world, but we’d argue it isn’t easy to find exciting examples under $50.

You often get what you pay for–at least up to a point. While we’ll never wrap our heads around the stratospheric prices of Napa or Bordeaux, the wines at the other end of the spectrum often end up, well, relatively simple and vinous, veering dangerously close to Welch’s grape juice. 

Unlike pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon isn’t a challenging grape variety to grow. Its thick skins make it relatively resistant to disease and rot. However, due to its late ripening, cabernet sauvignon isn't well suited to all climates – even though you’ll find it just about everywhere. In moderate climates, yields need to be kept in check to ensure the fruit ripens fully and makes it to the finish line. 

The issue with entry-level cabernet sauvignon is often more related to winemaking than the vineyard. The wines can be forced to be something they’re not. The fruit may be ripened within an inch of its life, especially in warm regions. When this happens, the variety’s intrinsic herbaceousness is lost, and what’s left is something that’s, yes, full-bodied and jammy but also monolithic and one-dimensional. The wines can also try to emulate other regions – like Napa and Bordeaux – but with a small fraction of the budget. The result is wines with sweet fruit, sweet oak, and little sense of place or variety. They may as well use just about any red grape at that point. 

This month, we highlight ten wines under $50 that taste like cabernet sauvignon and show that you don’t always need to break the bank to get something ageworthy and delicious. We’re highlighting wines we’ve tasted over the past year, drawing from various countries and regions.

Written By:
Geoffrey Moss MW
Geoffrey Moss MW

Geoffrey Moss MW, a wine reviewer/critic and contributor at Gismondi on Wine, earned his Master of Wine in August 2020. Born in Ontario, with a degree from McGill University in Political Science, Moss' resume includes working for premium brands, including with Don Triggs and family at Culmina Estate Winery, and then as part of the team for the ambitious, 100-million-dollar Phantom Creek Estates project, seeing its brand and winery emerge from scratch to full realization. Moss opened Lithica Wine Marketing in 2019. He runs his wine consulting business from Penticton, British Columbia, in the heart of the Okanagan Valley.