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I've just returned from the Rhône Valley, France's second-largest wine-growing region, producing nine percent of the country's wines.
While it's full of Old World charm, there is a progressive nature among the latest generation of winemakers grappling with how to sell wine to a world of wine drinkers whose priorities are shifting faster than US tariff rules.
Perhaps the most surprising news for Rhône wine drinkers is the rise of white wine production in a region traditionally making 74% red, 14% rosé and only 12% white wines. Globally, white wine is on a roll with younger and older generations because it's lighter in alcohol, fresher than red wine, and more versatile regarding food pairings. It is also cheaper than red wine. It has not gone unnoticed that younger drinkers imbibe many beverages served cool, giving white wine a clear series of underused advantages.
One of the Rhône villages leading the white wine charge is the little-known Laudun. The village of Laudun achieved a significant milestone on September 11, 2024, becoming the 18th cru of the Rhône Valley, some eleven years after the commune first applied for the elevated status. This new status, a 'cru,' represents the pinnacle of the region's quality production, closely linked to their terroir. It was a crucial achievement for Laudun, moving it up from its 1967 status as a Côtes du Rhône Villages with geographical designation.
Today, Laudun is ranked equally with other well-known Rhône appellations, such as Hermitage, Gigondas, Vacqueras, St. Joseph, Côte Rôtie and its famous neighbour just across the Rhône River, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The new AOP/AOC Laudun will produce only reds and whites; no rosé is permitted under its new appellation status. The authorized Laudun red varieties are similar to those of other Rhône appellations, namely Syrah and Grenache, joined by various secondary grapes led by Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise, and Vaccarèse. Still, the white grapes are destined to be the story shortly.
At nearly 30 percent, the production of Laudun white is leading the charge in the Rhône Valley's attempt to bring more balance to its overall output of red, white and rosé wines. The rules governing Laudun whites say they must have Grenache Blanc and Clairette as principal varieties, with lesser contributions for nuance and complexity with Roussanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc. Rolle or Vermentino, and others will follow.
The push to white wines makes much sense to this writer, given the quality of white Rhône wines and the region's appeal globally to wine drinkers.
We are experiencing many of the same shifts here in B.C., and with any cooperation from the weather gods, we may be able to duplicate the success the Rhône is experiencing with most of the same grapes.
Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier are already established here. We only need a lighter, fresher white to complete the mix, giving us another blend option to join our success with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Albarino. Laudun whites are few and far between currently, but other Rhône whites are available in government, private retail, and restaurant locations.
Here are our latest notes on Rhone whites, but we expect they will expand throughout the year as the the move to white wines continues.
