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This month, in anticipation of the upcoming French theme at the Vancouver International Wine Festival, we take a look back at a classic French cheese, Epoisses.
Epoisses is renowned in the cheese world as one of France's most potent washed rind cheeses. Regardless of its ripeness, it always boasts a rich flavour and has a relatively strong aroma. When it is quite ripe—which is common when buying it in Canada—it can become runny and develop a notably strong smell. Epoisses is not for the faint-hearted. If you know someone who claims to love cheese but really only loves cheddar, this isn't for them!
That said, like most washed rind cheeses, the aroma and appearance tend to be more intimidating than the actual taste. Although Epoisses is intense, it often proves less startling than its scent suggests. The flavour is usually earthy with a woody undertone and a faint fruity note at the finish, possibly due to the Marc used during the washing process. As with most washed rind cheeses, it has a salty element, but it's not unpleasant.
Epoisses is renowned in the cheese world as one of France's most robust washed-rind cheeses. Regardless of its ripeness, it remains full-flavoured and has a relatively strong aroma. If quite ripe—which isn't unusual if you're buying it in Canada—it can be quite runny and intensely fragrant. Epoisses is not for the faint-hearted. If you know someone who claims to love cheese but only truly loves cheddar, then this isn't the cheese for them!
Having said all that, like most washed rind cheeses, the aroma and appearance of the cheese tend to be more intimidating than the actual flavour. Although Epoisses is strong, it is often much less overpowering than the nose might suggest. The taste is usually earthy with a woodsy note and a slightly fruity finish, perhaps due to the Marc used during the washing process. Like most washed rind cheeses, it does have a characteristic salty presence, but it's not unpleasant.
Cheese Name: Epoisses AOP
Origin: Burgundy, France
Milk Type: Cow's Milk
Style: Washed Rind
Description: Epoisses is a soft, washed-rind cheese produced in Burgundy, specifically in the village of Epoisses. It has been crafted there for nearly 500 years. Since 1991, it has held AOP/AOC status, which means a governing body oversees the use of the name, ensuring it is from Burgundy and made using traditional methods. Epoisses is made from cow's milk and can be either unpasteurized or thermized. Thermized milk—heated to 140 degrees for 15 seconds, compared to pasteurized milk heated to 145 degrees for 30 minutes—is still considered unpasteurized but helps make the cheeses slightly more stable for shipping.
The wheels of Epoisses are brushed with Marc de Bourgogne during ripening, forming a wrinkly orange rind that resembles a brain. When very young, the rind may be somewhat dry and powdery, and it will turn into a darker, damp-looking rind as it fully ripens. The centre of the cheese is pale straw-coloured and tends to be very runny or oozy.
There are four makers of this unique treasure still in the area, and the fight to keep this cheese alive through challenging times over the past century has been led by maker Berthaut. You will see their version of Epoisses in a two-hundred-and-fifty-gram wheel, packed in a handsome wooden box, or in a larger format to be cut by your cheese monger into saleable-sized pieces. The smaller version is self-contained, making it safer for travel and presentations, but it will likely be riper, as it is smaller and ripens more quickly than the larger wheels.
Pairing: Rye bread or a good crusty baguette is perfect as a vessel for your Epoisses; honestly, it doesn't need much else. I would even go so far as to recommend you serve it as a one-cheese cheese course. So commit, and let it be the star.
GOW suggested wine pairings: The creamy texture of Époisses pairs well with a round, mineral Chardonnay. Acidity keeps things fresh while subtle nuttiness echoes the cheese's sweetness.
