Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Bruttext

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Brut 2008

Champagne, FranceThe widow (Veuve), Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot, is a legend in Champagne, taking over the winery after her husband's death in 1805 at the age of 27. La Grande Dame was launched on the winery's 200th anniversary in 1972 to pay homage to Madame Clicquot’s tireless work during trying times for Champagne, and no doubt, women. In 2008, the wine was a surprising blend of 92% pinot noir, 8% chardonnay, from near 70% estate vineyards. The pinot was predominantly sourced from the cooler Northern Montagne, for elegance and freshness, while the chardonnay comes from the powerhouse Le Mesnil. Traditionally La Grande Dame is fermented in stainless tanks, but from 2008 small portions have been aged in large oak foudres to add further complexity. Both the blend and oak use is a bold move by chef de caves Dominique Demarville, not unlike the audacious moves the widow pioneered herself. This is a powerful, muscular wine, rich with nougat and brioche. Blackcurrant and cherry reflect pinot's dominance, but chardonnay's rigid backbone holds this taut and upright. The palate layers patisserie with lemon curd, toasted hazelnut, and the aforementioned vanilla nougat and buttery brioche. This bottle was disgorged in January 2018, with 6 g/L RS. Opulent, yet balanced, take this alongside equally powerful dishes, like roast quail, sablefish, or butter-drawn lobster.Tasted: 01 November 2020Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
AB$349.95750mlselect private retailers
Producer: Veuve Clicquot PonsardinDistributors: Charton-Hobbs
Blend: Pinot Noir - ChardonnayCSPC: 354779UPC: 3049614176814