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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Thursday, March 20 2025

Raclette de Compton au Poivre

By: Allison Spurrell
A timely look at a Canadian cheese classic.

In light of all the talk about supporting local products moving forward, we look at a Quebec cheese you can proudly buy and serve to your Canadian and foreign friends.

In light of all the talk about supporting local products moving forward, we look at a Quebec cheese you can proudly buy and serve to your Canadian and foreign friends.

Cheese Name: Raclette de Compton au Poivre 

Milk Type: Organic raw cow's milk 

Style: Semi-firm washed rind cheese 

Raclette de Compton au Poivre is made by Fromagerie la Station in Compton, Québec. They make a wonderful selection of primarily firm and semi-firm cheeses. All the cheeses made by la Station are made with milk produced on their farm, with cows grazing on organic pastures whenever possible, weather dependent. 

All the milk used for their cheese is certified as organic and used raw. They also have Farmstead certification in Québec, which means they raise the animals and produce the cheese on their property. It is harder to do in Canada than it should be, so La Station is to be commended. 

In 2024, thanks to some help from the University of Guelph, many Canadian cheese makers entered their cheeses into the American Cheese Society's Competition and Judging. Fromagerie la Station was one of the farms that participated. The logistics of getting cheeses across the border for a competition of this kind is complex, so getting someone to assist the cheesemakers with shipping was key to getting lots of Canadian representation at last year's judging. 

The ACS had 1,596 entries in 133 categories. Whew! Each category has a first and second-place winner. Once the winners are chosen using a complex scoring system and done blind, of course, all the different teams of judges meet up and try all the winners. With another round of secret voting, the Best in Show is chosen. Just like at Westminster, the top dog is the winner that tops all the other category winners. 

For the first time in 2024, the Best in Show award went to a Canadian entry! Fromagerie la Station's delicious Raclette de Compton au Poivre won both best in its category and best in show. The second runner-up was also Canadian. It was a banner year for Canadian entries. 
Raclette de Compton au Poivre is a healthy three-kilo wheel of washed rind, semi-firm cheese. Its center has a line of pink peppercorns, so every piece you cut looks as beautiful as it tastes. If you have it as a raclette, it has a lovely buttery taste and a slightly floral note when the cheese and pink peppercorns are heated. Raclette always has a washed rind, but that can mean many different things depending on the maker. This version has a milder rind than some types of Raclette, making it great as a table cheese or for heating and cooking. Aged for 60 – 90 days, it is the perfect age for a cheese with the correct texture for melting, as older cheeses can separate when cooked. Remember, you don't need to serve this cheese as a traditional raclette dinner over boiled potatoes, grilled sausages and cured meats. Try using a few slices on some leftover chicken and veggies, heated slightly, then finishing them in the oven. What a way to make leftovers sing. 

I find washed-rind cheeses work better with white wine, but in the case of this Raclette, I think it would be suitable for white or red wine, depending on how you were serving it. If you are heating it, it would depend on what else is in the dish, and if you are serving it on a cheese plate, then whatever other cheeses you have chosen may tip the balance. I say something fruity, and light will complement the richness and the interesting addition of the peppercorns. 

Written By: Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell

Allison Spurrell stocks the larders of the city’s finest restaurants and your fridge alike, through les amis du FROMAGE, cheese shops in the Kitslano and Strathcona neighbourhoods in Vancouver which she runs with Joe Chaput. Their shelves are filled with 400 cheeses, including local, raw milk French, Italian and other specialties. They also sell foie gras, pâtés, crackers, biscuits, varietal olive oils, vinegars and other specialty food items and their kitchen in Strathcona prepares popular frozen taken away meals. Les amis du FROMAGE has received Vancouver Magazine's Restaurant Award as a top food supplier to Vancouver’s best restaurants and hotels. Allison is a proud member of Confrerie les Chevalier du Taste Fromage de France. To buy cheese visit: les amis du FROMAGE in Kitslano - 1752 West 2nd Ave | Tel (604) 732-4218 or Strathcona - 843 East Hastings St | Tel 604-253-4218 | www.buycheese.com.