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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
1 Mill Road Pinot Noir
89POINTS
16¼/20

1 Mill Road Pinot Noir 2018

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada1 Mill Road is the second incarnation of the Enns family, David and Cynthia, post Laughing Stock Estate, located a few kilometres south of the new venture. Cynthia Enns grows the fruit, while David is responsible for making the wine — in this case, a 2018 mid-Okanagan Naramata Bench pinot that appears to be well-suited to its lone 115 pinot noir clone. The fruit is grown just north of the village centre and is part of what the Enns hope will be a revitalization of the Naramata town centre, first founded in 1907. The vineyard was initially planted by the Enns in 2012 and used at Laughing Stock, but after today's tasting, I can safely say the style of the 2018 pinot bears little resemblance to anything we have seen before. The site planted on abandoned pear orchard overlooks the original village of Naramata, now enjoying a renaissance of sorts led by the Enns and a small band of locals. Heavier silty soils appear to help with the density and mouthfeel of this silky red-fruited wine that is located almost on the lake. Yet because it faces southwest, the Enns can let it hang most years to up the intensity but not the alcohol. Handpicked, hand-sorted and aged in oak tanks, year one is surprisingly fresh and nimble if not a touch Oregon/Burgundy-like. A 2019 barrel sample, tasted alongside, is even more impressive, with slightly darker ripe fruit tones that take us to Sonoma Coast/Central Otago. One to watch.Tasted: 09 May 2020Tasted by: Anthony GismondiPrices: BC 40.00 winery online Producer: 1 Mill Road VineyardsDistributors: Winery Direct
Grape: Pinot Noir