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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Thursday, September 26 2024

Nostalgia in Every Bottle

By: HJ Cha
Gina Harfman’s Journey from Family Roots to Winemaking as an Art

Tucked away in the heart of the Black Sage Bench, Nostalgia Wines was a hidden gem, still flying under the radar compared to its more celebrated neighbours in the unofficial, yet esteemed, sub-GI.

That has ended since the winery was named the third-best performing small winery in Canada, fifth-best in BC, and seventh-best overall at this year's National Wine Awards of Canada. They submitted eight wines, all awarded medals, including a Platinum and three Golds—impressive results for a winery producing just 5,000 cases yearly.

Founded in 2006 by Bruce and Denise Hagerman, the winery was originally known as Oliver Twist before being rebranded in 2021. Gina Fernandes Harfman, the current owner and winemaker, took over in 2012 but chose to keep the original name for nearly a decade out of respect for the previous owners, who served as mentors. It wasn't until the winery's 15th anniversary, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, that Gina renamed the winery, marking both a milestone and a new chapter.

"It's more of an art than a science. For me, it's about creation. As a half-Portuguese, I have a passion for cooking, where flavour plays a crucial role. I taste the wine at every stage, play with it, and try out experiments and trials. Science provides guidance and chemistry tells me when adjustments are necessary, but it's not solely based on that.It's the flavour that truly matters. How the wine feels on the palate is paramount." Gina Harfman, Winemaker

Nostalgia's Home Vineyard

Family Farming Legacy

Gina's roots in farming run deep, tracing back through generations on both sides of her family. Originally from Madeira, Portugal, her maternal grandfather grew banana plants in his homeland before moving to the Okanagan Valley in the 1950s, where he established an orchard in Osoyoos. On her father's side, she is a fourth-generation South Okanagan farmer. In 1999, her father, Ken Harfman, transformed the family orchard into a vineyard, where Gina now sources some of her grapes. Meanwhile, around the Nostalgia property and vineyard, vibrant seasonal flowers bloom, all thoughtfully planted by her mom.

"My playpen was an apple bin," she reflects on her childhood growing up in an orchard. "My parents always made us work on the farm. My mom was a hard worker who ran a fruit stand, and our hands were in the dirt all the time." When asked about the lessons and values passed down through her family's generations, Gina cites: "Attention to detail, hard work, staying on top of things, not giving up, and doing whatever it takes."

Now, as a mother of two, she mainly treasures raising her children on the farm where she lives. She acquired the property when her first child was just a year old. Reflecting on the early days, she recalls, "My kids were in a carrier while I was doing pump-overs and serving customers – they were very involved. Thankfully, I had plenty of support from my family and the previous owners." Guided by her deep family farming roots and dedication, Gina upholds the values of hard work and respect for the land that defines her family's legacy.

Winemaking as an Art
Gina's path to winemaking wasn't typical. After leaving Fine Art school in Kelowna, she pursued airbrushing and pinstriping courses in Las Vegas, applying those skills to classic cars and motorbikes for several years. However, her passion for winemaking was born when she made her first wine using grapes from her father's vineyard for a family event. Eager to learn more, she enrolled in a winemaking course at Okanagan College in 2009. A harvest at Cassini led to her joining Oliver Twist, and soon after, she took ownership of the winery.

Gina believes that her artistic background profoundly shapes her approach to winemaking. "It's more of an art than a science," she explains. "For me, it's about creation. As a half-Portuguese, I have a passion for cooking, where flavour plays a crucial role. I taste the wine at every stage, play with it, and try out experiments and trials. Science provides guidance, and chemistry tells me when adjustments are necessary, but it's not solely based on that. It's the flavour that truly matters. How the wine feels on the palate is paramount." Gina enjoys exploring new coopers and toast levels in her barrel studio. Despite the associated costs, she questions, "How else would I learn?" Throughout the interview, her frequent use of the expression 'playing around' suggests that she genuinely enjoys the process of crafting her wines.

Nostalgia and the Portfolio

Nostalgia Sign in the Tasting Room

Reflecting on the name Nostalgia and the rebranding process, Gina's passion for classic cars, 1950s and '60s music, her family's roots, and all things nostalgic inspired her to rebrand the winery with a retro theme. Parked in front of the tasting room is a rustic 1938 Chevy truck, its weathered frame bursting with vibrant pink petunias lovingly planted by Gina's mom and carrying a wine barrel in its bed. Step inside, and the first thing you see in the tasting room is the Nostalgia sign, displayed on a wall of reclaimed wood from the farmhouse where Gina's father and his three brothers grew up. The farmhouse, built in the 1930s, stood on the Osoyoos property her grandfather purchased in 1946. Her family still lives there, and they source grapes from the Harfman Vineyard. These objects perfectly encapsulate the things Gina treasures and the sense of nostalgia that shapes her vision.

Nostalgia's 14.5-acre Home Vineyard, sitting on the west side of Black Sage Road, features a top third with rocky clay soil that transitions into well-draining sand. The vineyard is home to 10 varieties, including chardonnay, viognier, pinot gris, kerner, merlot, cabernet franc, syrah, malbec, petit verdot, and, most recently, pinot noir. Nostalgia is self-sufficient, with cabernet sauvignon sourced from her father's vineyard. They excel in producing syrah, merlot, cabernet franc and red blends, notably their flagship Meritage.

Producing around 12 SKUs annually – perhaps a bit excessive for a winery of this size – reflects Gina's experimental approach and desire to play around with different lots. Their portfolio is divided into three tiers: the Family Collection, Nostalgia Series, and Pin-up Series. The Family Collection, distinguished by its black and gold label, represents their top wines, carefully selected during final blending before bottling. The Nostalgia Series, with bronze on blue-green labels for reds and bronze on white labels for whites, forms the core lineup, primarily showcasing single-varietal expressions from the South Okanagan. The Pin-Up Series showcases labels featuring 'mischievous' pin-up girl illustrations by San Diego artist Ralph Burch, paying tribute to Gina's previous career in pin-striping and airbrushing. Though the labels are fun and playful, don't judge a book by its cover – these are serious wines with distinct personalities, especially Rockabilly and Girls Red.

Winter Freezes and Plans

Like nearly all wineries in the valley, Nostalgia was affected by the recent consecutive winter freezes. They lost 35% of their vines to winter frost in late 2022 and another 30% in the January 2024 freeze, resulting in no grapes for both vintages. Despite this, they remain optimistic, viewing the challenges as opportunities to improve future preparations. The entire block of pinot gris in their Home Vineyard was removed, which they see as a chance to regrade the vineyard to eliminate frost pockets by adjusting the slope.

In response to the limitations of their propane wind machine, which required frequent refuelling and was costly, Gina implemented a one-of-a-kind electric frost fan. Combining a Californian body with South African technology from AGI Frost Fans, this unique machine is 97% efficient and automated with a weather sensor and app. It covers a 22-acre radius, three times larger than the previous one, and operates quietly, benefiting neighbouring vineyards.

For the 2024 vintage, while they are considering importing a small amount of juice for white wine from Washington State, they feel confident they have sufficient inventory to sell for the next couple of years. Notably, they released their 2021 wines before the highly acclaimed 2020 vintage. So, watch for the release of their 2020 vintage reds. With Nostalgia open year-round and less busy during this period, with minimal winemaking tasks required, there are even more reasons to visit the Okanagan this fall.

Here are my notes from a recent visit to the property:

Written By:
HJ Cha
HJ Cha

HJ (Huijeong) Cha is a certified Sommelier and WSET Diploma holder pursuing her wine studies as a Master of Wine candidate. She holds an MA in English Literature and counts brand marketing, hospitality, production and journalism in her decade-long experience in the wine industry in Korea, California and Canada. She is based in the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia.