Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Thursday, August 20 2020

Argiano - Bernardino Sani

By: Anthony Gismondi
Argiano is evolving its style embracing a more elegant version of Brunello di Montalcino

There’s a lot of talk about the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino wines.

Growers were no doubt thrilled to put the challenging 2014s behind them quickly. But the hype about the 2015s is mostly well deserved. Yes, it was a warm year, but it also wasn’t excessively hot. The growing season extended into late September and early October, which allowed the sangiovese to ripen gradually and maintain freshness. 

It is a vintage that is well suited to the stylistic approach at Argiano, which prizes elegance above all else. These are real, terroir-driven wines from a winery that has come to understand its terroir in new ways, even after 440 years. It starts, of course, with renowned soil scientist Dr. Pedro Parra. The talented Chilean identified eight unique terroirs at the winery that includes Argiano’s oldest vineyard, now a single-vineyard Brunello di Montalcino labelled Vigna del Suolo.

There have also been changes in vineyard management since 2012 when Argiano began the transition to farming organically. Biodiversity is a convenient buzz word for many in the wine industry, but it means something at Montalcino. The majority of the region remains covered by forest, with viticulture only one of many agricultural activities.

Talking to Bernardino Sani, Argiano’s CEO & Winemaker, you get the impression that the vineyard is front and centre. And the wines tell the same story, with the elegance and balance characteristic of winemaking consultant Alberto Antonini. Their 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, available now at BC Liquor Stores, is a fabulous introduction to the property.

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Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.