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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnaytext
90POINTS
16½/20

Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2020

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, CanadaTherianthropy is the mythical process of shapeshifting, which is another way to view turning nature into wine. This small collaborative project launched in late 2019. From St. David's Bench's Bock Vineyard, this dry farmed chardonnay is rooted in loamy clays (Tavistock red phase, Toledo loamy phase, Toledo phase), planted 9 years ago. After a whole cluster, native ferment (with 14% seeing 3 weeks on skins) in concrete egg, this remained there for full MLF and 7 months on lees without bâtonnage. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fine lemon pith and peel brighten a lightly creamy palate, lightly textured by the concrete and whispering skin contact. The finish lingers with flax and delicate white blossoms. Impressive move forward from their inaugural 2019 Chardonnay, and certainly one to watch.Tasted: 10 October 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
ON$29.95750mlwinery online/direct
Producer: TherianthropyDistributors: Winery Direct
Grape: Chardonnay