Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Soalheiro Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhastext

Soalheiro Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhas 2019

Vinhos Verde, Northern Portugal, PortugalSoalheiro is, and should be, regarded as the epitome of Vinho Verde production. Luis Cerdeiro, along with his brother Joâo and sister Maria, have taken over the northern VV estate that their father Joâo planted in 1974, making them the 4th wine producer in VV at that time making and bottling their own wines to sell. Soalheiro is Portuguese for 'sunny', as their site, in the priced subregion of Moncão e Melgaço, is protected from the harsh Atlantic winds by a range of mountains. Thus, they are wamer and less humid than their neighbours just across the divide, in Spain's Rias Baixas region. Their 15 estate hectares are rooted in granitic soils between 100-400m, including one small parcel of own rooted vines. They also have one experimental 2 ha parcel planted at 1100m on pure schist, preparing for climate change. This, their 'entry' alvarinho was fermented and aged in stainless, to preserve the crisp, pure fruit. And crisp and pure it is, ringing with Atlantic salinity, and leading with crisp pear, green apple, bright lemon, with a slick of fine lees, and a very lengthy citrus and mineral finish. So well knit and complex in youth, and this has a few years ahead. Drink this to understand the top tier of Vinho Verde, and then go find their more premium releases.Tasted: 20 December 2020Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: QC 28.00 SAQ Producer: Quinta de SoalheiroGrape: Alvarinho