Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Domaine Labet la Bardette

Domaine Labet la Bardette 2016

CĂ´tes du Jura, Jura, FranceThe Labet family of Rotalier in the area south of Lons-le-Saunier, known as the Sud Revermont, has been making thoughtful wines for generations but it was Alain Labet that elevated the estate to an icon of low-intervention and organic practices, and one that followed the Bourgogne tradition of topping up barrels. His eldest son, Julien, continued and expanded on the minimal intervention track, certifying the old-vine vineyards to organics (2010), and incorporating animals into their vineyard management program. Along with his siblings Charline (a trained oenologist), and Romain (a viticulturist), Julien is directing the next-gen of Labet wines. This beauty chardonnay from the prized limestone-laced, clay-clad La Bardette vineyard needs time to open and reveal itself. After pressing with stems and setting the juice, this native fermented in older wood for ten months with full MLF, before remaining in the vessels for 18 months on lees with light battonage. It was bottled without racking, fining, or filtration. Potent and upfront reduction lures on the nose of this wine, positively vibrating with electricity. Wild herbs, meadow grasses, flake salts, lemon pith, fill a palate chiselled with firm acidity. Serious, youthful, and intellectually and instinctively moreish, this still-young wine appears closed at first opening. Do as we did, and taste over a few hours, to allow the wine to show itself. A real stunner, and one I wish I had in my cellar.Tasted: 14 January 2020Tasted by: Treve RingProducer: Domaine LabetGrape: Chardonnay