Zinfandel for the BBQ and Beyond

The friendly red with the fruity demeanour is the perfect barbecued companion and my guess is, if you are not hosting a barbecue dinner this weekend you will probably be attending one, either way zinfandel will fit the bill of fare.

There are so many styles of zinfandel, from white to black and sweet to dry it pays to be aware of how they might influence the menu, or you could do what zinfandel fans do and just drink the stuff, sans any fuss or muss.

What attracts consumers to zinfandel is its soft textures and aromatic berry fruit flavours, reminiscent of cinnamon, black cherries and plums. It has been euphemistically described as a comfortable old pair of shoes, or like sinking into your favourite armchair no doubt alluding to its soft, pleasing easy-sipping nature and often supple tannins.

We know it pairs well with a wide variety of foods so do not be afraid to experiment. Flank steak can feed a crowd and zinfandel can entertain both. Chicken duck, pastas, sausages and any number of cheeses will all work and if you are clutching a zinfandel, you will be well on your way to the perfect match.

That's not to say there aren't some seriously fine, dry-farmed, head-pruned, old vine (as in over 100 years) zinfandel, that are big, peppery, rich and alcoholic but those listings have become few and far between here in B.C. and frankly they are not designed for the summer mode.

Today we look point you toward a range of styles and prices widely available and ready for duty this weekend.

Painter Bridge Zinfandel 2005 carries the ubiquitous California moniker meaning the grapes could come from anywhere in the state. In this case they must come for a well managed site because the wine has an enticing fruity, blackberry, mulberry nose flecked with mocha oak and peppery, meaty aromas. The entry is soft and round and on the palate, the flavour is a mix of juicy cedar-y blackberry plum with hints of coal and licorice. A better than average, barbecue red at a very fair price. Stock up.

Toney Sonoma County is home to Gallo's Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Zinfandel 2004 yet the price is well in check. Look for a different style here beginning with its smoky, briary, stewed blackberry nose. The entry is very soft and round with stewed, plummy fruit streaked with licorice. Solid everyday zin you can serve liberally around the barbecue and it's completely ready to drink.

Dense plush plummy fruit with plenty of warmth and alcohol is the signature Cline Zinfandel 2004 style. This California blend has fine balance and length supported by sweet fruit and alcohol and will be a favourite for those who like their zin rich and fruity. Its $19.99 price seems like a good buy until you consider the $13.80 price that Ontario residents are paying for the same wine. Could it be anymore obvious that B.C. liquor taxes are completely out of control.

The Michael David Winery blends seven old vine Zinfandel lots from seven Lodi, California growers to come up with 7 Deadly Zins Zinfandel 2004. Look for a super smoky nose streaked with briary, chocolate, blackberry and saddle leather scented fruit. The entry is ultra smooth and satiny the fruit, warm, spicy and crammed with black cherry jam, chocolate and vanilla flavours. Far more interest here on the mid-palate where leather cedar and tobacco give it some welcomed complexity. Delicious drinking zin.

Traditional and perhaps older zin fans who pine for the intense Amador county style zinfandel will be attracted to the Z 52 Clockspring Vineyard Old Vine Amador Zinfandel 2003. Z-52 has a peppery, spicy, sweaty saddle leather nose mixed with barnyard, blackberry jam, licorice and briary, chocolate notes. Slightly astringent on entry and carry light-ish tannins it has tasty almond, black cherry, peppery, menthol, licorice, chocolate/vanilla flavours. Dry but well balanced. Needs 2-4 years more in bottle or some grilled meat.

Today's finale was a new discovery for me. Titus Vineyards Zinfandel 2003 bears the prestigious Napa Valley appellation. There's 15 per cent petite syrah in the mix as well as 85 percent, 25-year old, dry-farmed zinfandel fruit that spits out naturally low yields. It's more Hilfiger than Prada thanks to its ageing in American oak barrels but the petite sirah does help to add interest. Dark fruit and smoke mixes effortlessly with mineral chocolate coffee and licorice. Not your average zinfandel and while it's round and appealing it's also a bit edgy. Rich full-bodied and capable of ageing another few weeks. Well done.

PAINTER BRIDGE ZINFANDEL 2005, CALIFORNIA
Price     $13.99
UPC     089121168523
Score   87/100
Remarks           A better than average, easy-sipping barbecue red at a fair price.

RANCHO ZABACO DANCING BULL ZINFANDEL 2004, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price     $14.99
UPC     085000010181
Score   86/100
Remarks           Clean everyday zin you can serve liberally around the barbecue.

CLINE ZINFANDEL 2004, CALIFORNIA
Price     $19.99
UPC     098652130022
Score   88/100
Remarks           Typical Cline. Dense plush plummy fruit with plenty of warmth and alcohol.

7 DEADLY ZINS ZINFANDEL 2004, LODI, CENTRAL VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
Price     $27.90
UPC     652935100012
Score   89/100
Remarks           Drink all autumn with any number of mushroom dishes.

Z 52 CLOCKSPRING VINEYARD OLD VINE AMADOR ZINFANDEL 2003, AMADOR COUNTY, SIERRA Foothills, California
Price     $34.00
UPC     831822003678
Score   88/100
Remarks           Black cherry, peppery, menthol, licorice, chocolate/vanilla flavours.

TITUS VINEYARDS ZINFANDEL 2003, NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
Price     $39.99
UPC     747505001704
Score   91/100
Remarks           More Hilfiger than Prada but a dash petite sirah helps to add interest.