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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Officially, there's still three weeks of summer to come, but few would argue Labour Day all but marks the end of summer on the coast.

It doesn't mean the warm days will vanish completely, but it's the coming cool nights of autumn that are grabbing my attention.

Staying with the long weekend's "labour" theme, I have come up with six "workhorse" reds for today's column that should be on your to-drink list all fall. Do not interpret their moderate price as some sort of low quality statement, because each wine delivers far more in the glass than its price would suggest and beyond that, they will appeal on many levels to the senses of the curious, thoughtful drinker.

Four of the labels hail from Spain, where red wine under $20 has been widely transformed from bland to respectable and entertaining over the last decade. The other two come from Chile and Australia. Chile should be doing better at this price point, but we can't seem to get the right wines into our market.

Australia has mostly vacated the under $16 category, at least when it comes to value, leaving little for consumers to choose from.

That said, from among hundreds these are six of the best reds under $16 I've tasted this summer.

This is the second vintage of Castillo de Monseran Garnacha 2005 that has impressed me. It's made with 100 per cent garnacha grapes that are 50 to 100 years old. Look for a fruity aromatic nose spiked with meaty, spicy, floral bits. The textures are soft and supple, making this an easy sipping red with black cherry, plum and licorice flavours. Terrific value in a workhorse hamburger red.

The Bajoz Cano Tinto de Toro 2004 will never win any prizes for its ease of pronunciation, but it's no problem for the Spanish. Tinta de Toro means tempranillo and it makes up roughly 75 per cent of this blend -- the remainder is garnacha. I love the fragrant floral nose and its fresh, bright demeanour, and its savoury, fragrant, plummy black cherry fruit flavours spiced with licorice are worth getting to know. Another solid workhorse that would be perfect with grilled sausages. Good value.

Oh no, not the Yellow Tail Shiraz 2005. Yes, why not? Look for a lifted, floral-jasmine nose with compost and flecks of pepper. Big soft, simple, round textures with fruity cherry/chocolate flavours. It's a bit bigger and smoother than previous editions, which should continue to attract a crowd. Yellowtail has stayed the course when it comes to its ripe, sweet, attractive, fruity-style wine, and this effort will no doubt be rewarded by its legions of fans.

The find of the month has to be Vina Casablanca Syrah Coleccion Privada 2004, from the Maipo Valley in Chile. At $14, this wine delivers gobs of black berry, smoky, roasted pepper aromas and a dry supple palate laced with minty, smoky, plum, earthy, meaty flavours with a touch of vanilla and clove. Perfect for hearty fall and winter meals. Very fine value syrah.

Borsao Seleccion Tinto Joven 2005 is mostly garnacha with bits of tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon from Campo de Borja, in the north of Spain. The winery has moved from natural cork to synthetic in 2005, and the results are favourable. Black fruit dominates the mid-palate with licorice, spicy undertones and good acidity -- an almost youthful, grapey finish. It should be very appealing to consumers wanting to move away from the simple, sweet, introductory red wine.

My final pick is Finca Luzon Jumilla Organic 2005 from Jumilla. It's one of the best (and most affordable organic wines in the market) and, just for fun, the '05 vintage is better than last year's edition. I love the rich gamey, savoury, chocolate, black-fruit nose; the round, ripe textures -- all with just enough acidity to hold your interest. This finish is warm, with peppery, fruit flavours with more cherry chocolate and earth. Impressive organic wine.


CASTILLO DE MONSERAN GARNACHA 2005, CARINENA, SPAIN
Price: $9.85
UPC: 3378630306227
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Terrific value in a workhorse, hamburger red.

BAJOZ CANO TEMPRANILLO - GARNACHA 2004, TORO, CASTILLA-LEON, SPAIN
Price: $12.37
UPC: 8425146000042
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fragrant plummy, black cherry fruit flavours with a spicy, licorice spin.

YELLOW TAIL SHIRAZ 2005, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $12.86
UPC: 839743000011
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Bigger and smoother than previous editions, which should attract a crowd.

VINA CASABLANCA SYRAH COLECCION PRIVADA 2004, VALLE DEL MAIPO, CHILE
Price: $13.99
UPC: 07804350002126
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Good solid red for the richer dishes of fall and winter. Great value.

BORSAO SELECCION TINTO JOVEN 2005, CAMPO DE BORJA, ARAGON, SPAIN
Price: $14.99
UPC: 8412423120470
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Should appeal to consumers moving away from simple, sweet-ish reds.

FINCA LUZON JUMILLA ORGANIC, JUMILLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA, SPAIN
Price: $14.99
UPC: 8436005760014
Score: 88/100
Remarks: One of the best and most affordable organic wines in the market.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.