Wolf Blass Leads the Nation

Those numbers represent eight per cent of the volume (and nearly 11 per cent of the value) of all wines purchased in government liquor stores, and they B.C. sippers the leading consumers of Down Under wine in Canada. So the local importers of Australian wine should be in a mood to celebrate next Friday, Jan. 25, when the second annual Australia Day tasting is staged at the Westin Bayshore. Starting time is 6:30 p.m. The importers, along with the Australian Wine Bureau, the Australian consul-general, and the Australian Wine Appreciation Society of Vancouver invite interested consumers to drop by and sample more than 150 labels they will be pouring. Familiar names such as Rosemount, Penfolds, Hardys, Wolf Blass and Tyrrell's will be represented, but the obvious attraction will be the many newcomers. Pipers Brook is one. This cool-climate Tasmanian winery will pour pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. From the Coonawarra region, look for Riddoch Estate, and from the Clare Valley, seek out Jim Barry. Haselgrove (pronounced Hazel-grove) is another newcomer - check out its catchy labels, including "Bentwing Wrattonbully Shiraz." The debut of Peter Lehman Barossa Shiraz should not be missed, nor should the D'Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz. There is a Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache to be compared to an Eldredge New Age Grenache, and many, many more shirazes from the likes of Charles Cimicky, Langmeil and Punters Corner. Tickets, which include a bite to eat, are $45 and available through TicketMaster at 604-280-4444. The event will benefit the Heart and Stroke Foundation of B.C. & Yukon. In preparation for Australia Day, today's column looks at one of the driving forces behind the success of the category and one of the biggest selling Oz names in the country, Wolf Blass. The winery's 2001 Chardonnay has a big, buttery nose mixed with a typical floral/perfume aromas and a strong whiff of lanolin, smoke and wax. It tastes drier than expected, with lots of melon/orange, spicy lees and floral/citrus-blossom flavours. It has the all the weight and bluster of a typical Aussie chardonnay, but with a slightly drier bent in the finish. The 2000 Premium Selection Chardonnay mirrors some of regular version's melon fruit, with added peach, a lot more vanilla spice and leesy bread dough flavours adding to the mouth feel. The textures are rich, buttery and viscous. The finish is marked by a dry, citrus rind and buttered popcorn flavour. This is a busy, full-flavoured chardonnay. I'm not sure the world needs any Australian merlot, but if it does the 2000 by Wolf Blass is a respectable choice. The nose is particularly intense with sweet, vanilla/cherry jam and smoked, shoe-polish aromas. Similar flavours assault the palate, but its smoky, cedar finish is too dry. If you reds that are like big and boisterous on the nose this will please, but I'd recommend having it with food - a fairly fatty piece of meat to tame the dryness. The Green Label Shiraz is a workhorse that sports spicy sausage, rootsy aromas mixed with dark plum and jam fruit. Textures in the mouth are soft and round (perhaps a touch lightweight), but the acidity and structure are good. Plenty of plum, blackberry and licorice flavours set off the acidity and dry finish. Solid if unspectacular. What does one say about Yellow Label except what consumers who only refer to the wine as "Yellow Label" may not know: that it's made with cabernet sauvignon and produced by Wolf Blass. The nose that everyone can't seem to get enough is all oak and smoke, with elements of pencil lead, cedar and rich saddle leather. It's surprisingly leaner in the mouth than its nose suggests, and much fruitier, with big blackberry and cassis flavours. It's smooth and round on entry, and there's just a bit of dry tannin in the finish. Just about perfect for the price. To conclude, the Wolf Blass 1999 Premium Selection. Look for a rich, open, creamy vanilla/cola nose with blackberry jam and lots of smoky, leather aromas in the background. It's rich, round and concentrated, with more of the classic Oz flavours - ripe blackberry and mocha fruit. Soft tannins and smooth styling make it ready to drink now, but it should improve over the next three years. Not complex, but fun to drink. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Wolf Blass, South Australia Wine 2001 Chardonnay Price $17.95 Stock No. 226860 Score 14.5/20 Remarks Melons and orange spice. Wine Premium Selection 2000 Chardonnay Price $22.45 Stock No. 394908 Score 14/20 Remarks Rich vanilla/peach flavours. Wine 2000 Merlot Price $18.95 Stock No. 538637 Score 13.5/20 Remarks Big nose, dry flavours. Wine Green Label 1999 Shiraz Price $17.95 Stock No. 506691 Score 14.5/20 Remarks Plum, blackberry, licorice. Wine Yellow Label 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Price $17.95 Stock No. 251876 Score 14/20 Remarks Cedar, pencil lead, blackberry, cassis. Wine Premium Selection 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Price $29.95 Stock No. 321927 Score 15/20 Remarks Blackberry/mocha fruit.