Wirra Wirra and Kangaroo Red

Both fall into what I would describe as an emerging level of mature New World wineries entering the British Columbia market.

Despite a handful of listings that stretch back to mid-1950s, Australian wine was a minor player among imports until about a dozen years ago. The explosion, led by three major labels, Wyndham's Oak Cask Chardonnay, Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay, and Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon, literally turned the import wine market upside down.

Today, a third generation of Down Under wines, mostly from small and some medium-size experienced producers, are sweeping across the country riding a wave of popularity with consumers that, at least for the moment, remains largely unchallenged by most other wine-producing regions.

Just such a winery is Wirra Wirra, one of the oldest names in McLaren Vale. Established by Robert Strangways Wigley in the early 1920s, Wirra Wirra's early wines were exported by the Emu wine company under the brand Kangaroo Red. Suffice to say, things have changed.

In the early 1970s, cousins Greg and Roger Trott restored the historic building by hand and launched the Wirra Wirra trademark. Today, labels such as The Angelus, RSW, Church Block and Scrubby Rise have captured the imagination of aficionados worldwide, perhaps most important because they reflect the winery's commitment to low-yielding, dry-farmed vineyards that produced elegant wines.

I can't say enough about the Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Viognier 2002. Spice, honey, mineral, green apple, grapefruit aromas all assail the nose from the glass. The textures are round, if not slightly oily, with more grapefruit, honey, mineral and vanilla flavours throughout. A touch of sweetness with very good acidity makes this an attractive blend for Asian dishes and seafood.

The Scrubby Rise Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2001 is a real fruit bomb, offering intense blueberry and boysenberry jam aromas with streaks of spicy white pepper. It is soft, round and supple on the palate with lots of blueberry, black raspberry licorice and spicy pepper flavours. It's a bit high in acidity (tart) but there's great fruit and the price is right. Fun to drink.

The Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2001 makes the best of its two-grape recipe. Look for a smoky, pepper, leather cassis jam and boysenberry flavour in a supple easy-to-sip package. The finish is blend of fresh coffee and vanilla notes. It's a tad dry and young but grilled meats will mellow the tannin, or hold it another year to reveal plenty of fruit.

It's safe to say Peter Lehman is a legend among Australian wine folks. With 13 years at Yalumba, 20 more at Saltram and another two decades running his own winery, Lehman knows everybody who's anybody in the business.

Lehmann should have called his winery "Integrity" back in 1979. After a falling-out with his masters at Saltram, who asked Lehmann to sever the company's long-term relationship with growers due to tough economic times, Lehman said no, quit the winery and open his own facility, where he resumed the relationship with his growers that still exist today.

For the first 15 years he owned no vineyards, buying-in fruit from as many as 200 growers, although in the last decade the company has acquired Stonewall Vineyard, from which they make their finest Shiraz.

We begin with the uncomplicated Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Chardonnay 2002. No wood is used in the wine, hence its bright peach, pear, melon aromas with a touch of mineral and butter. Dry yet elegant, there is plenty of fresh melon, pear, orange citrus flavours and an oily, buttery finish. Good value

The Peter Lehmann Clancy's Legendary Red 2001 is a 53/33/10/4 blend of shiraz/cabernet/merlot/cabernet franc. It has generous spicy, peppery, black raspberry nose laced with licorice cigar and cassis. You'll love the black cherry, black raspberry jam fruit and its gamey, licorice, coffee flavours. Elegance and styling, this is an attractive red for early drinking.

The Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2001 is all Barossa with its spicy, saddle leather, blackberry jam and bacon aromas. It's ripe and soft with intense Christmas pudding, black berry jam and licorice flavours. The finish is spicy and smoky but with plenty of soft fruit. Perfect to drink now.

This week Peter Lehmann Wines were awarded the trophies for Winemaker of the Year and Australian Producer of the Year at the 2003 International Wine & Spirit Competition, held in London. It's a fitting commendation for a winery whose mantra is real values, real wines, made by real people from a real place ... The Barossa, Australia.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: WIRRA WIRRA VINEYARDS, PETER LEHMANN, AUSTRALIA

Wine: Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Sauv. Blanc Semillon Viognier 2002, McLaren Vale
Price: $16.99
UPC: 9315125150990
Score: 15/20
Comments: Round, rich, grapefruit, passion fruit; honey, mineral and vanilla flavours.

Wine: Wirra Wirra Scrubby RiseShiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2001, Fleurieu Peninsula
Price: $16.99
UPC: 9315125901042
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Supple textures: blueberry, black raspberry licorice.

Wine: Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2001, McLaren Vale
Price: $24.99
UPC: 9315125090982
Score: 15/20
Comments: Smoky, pepper, leather, cassis jam, easy-to-sip.

Wine: Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Chardonnay 2002
Price: $13.99
UPC: 032726001665
Score: 14/20
Comments: Round and elegant fresh melon, pear, orange citrus flavours. Good value.

Wine: Peter Lehmann Clancy's Legendary Red 2001
Price: $19.99
UPC: 032726001290
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Black raspberry jam fruit and gamey, licorice, coffee flavours.

Wine: Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2001, Barossa Valley
Price: $29.99
UPC: 032726001221
Score: 16/20
Comments: Delicious Christmas pudding aromas; black berry jam and licorice flavours.