Wines That Tax The Pocketbook

Two weeks of traveling across southern Ontario, including a week in Niagara wine country, has left me flabbergasted at the high prices we pay for wine in B.C.

Frankly, we are being hosed and it doesn't take more than a single trip into the vanilla looking, plain-Jane LCBO government liquor stores to understand just how much more we are asked to pay.

In Ontario, most wines under $20 sell for as much as $2 to $3 per bottle less and there is a wide range of very drinkable wine listed at considerably less than $10 (a price category with quality) all but non-existent in B.C.

The short explanation for the bargains is that the tax levied at the cash register is significantly lower in Ontario.

Not every wine is a bargain. National brands tend to sell at similar prices across the nation and not surprisingly the Ontario price tends to mirror the much higher levels paid in Quebec and B.C., in this case leaving Ontario distributors a very healthy profit.

The downside for local wineries is there are no VQA-only outlets in Ontario, and only a modicum of restaurants support local wines, so Ontario-estate wine prices tend to be quite low by B.C standards.

For now, low prices would appear to be enough to maintain the status quo in Ontario. Certainly Premier McGinty's government would agree after quickly rejecting any notion of change as recommended by the Beverage Alcohol System Review, the first major look at the province's beverage alcohol system in 75 years.

This week we look at some big time Ontario bargains that are also available in B.C. A quick glance at price differential makes one wonder why we continue to put up with restrictive monopoly systems that prevents us from shopping for wine anywhere but in our home province.

We begin in South Africa with Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2003. This is fun sipping juice with just enough varietal character and a lemony peppery finish to entertain even the keenest oenophile. The price is attractive in B.C and a steal in Ontario. 

The Sacred Hill 2004 Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc mixes smoky flinty, guava and green melon aromas with grapefruit, mineral, smoky green apple and guava fruit flavours. This is classy New Zealand sauvignon that works best with shellfish.

The Stump Jump Red 2004 is a southern Rhone-like blend of grenache/shiraz/mourvèdre that is built for fun. Look for peppery mineral notes and tell-tale black raspberry (grenache) on the nose and palate. A dry red that pairs well with the likes of prime rib or sausages.

The Argentine Trumpeter Merlot 2003 hails from Tupungato and has an attractive smoky earth nose and round sweet blackberry and cedar fruit flavours. Perfect for most grilled meat dishes. Very good value in Ontario.

The Argento Malbec 2003 is another Argentine red with flair. It's not sold in Liquor stores but can be found in select private wines shops. Look for rich aromas of compost and plum fruits mixed with coffee/mocha flavours. The textures are rich but soft and the body fuller than you might expect for the price.

The Mezzomondo Negroamaro 2003 comes out of Apulia, Italy and delivers a whack of spicy southern fruit with meaty, smoky prune and black cherry aromas. The tannins are a bit rustic but the meaty chocolate cherry flavours will win you over. A solid barbecue red. Great value.

Long Weekend Wines

Wine   Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Western Cape, South Africa
Price   $9.99; ON $7.95
UPC   6001108004079
Score   86/100
Remarks         Clean fresh correct sauvignon with touch a residual sugar.

Wine   Sacred Hill 2004 Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand
Price   $19.95 private wine shops; ON $14.95
UPC   9416623330348
Score   86/100
Remarks         A classy sauvignon with kiwi, jalapeno notes and fine intensity.

Wine   The Stump Jump Red 2004 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, South Australia
Price   $14.99; ON$12.99
UPC   9311832314007
Score   87/20
Remarks         Easy-drinking, peppery, black raspberry red.

Wine   Trumpeter Merlot 2003, Mendoza, Argentina
Price   $17.95 to 19.95 private wine shops; ON $13.95
UPC   089046333037
Score   87/100
Remarks         Smoky earth with sweet blackberry flavours.
 

Wine   Argento Malbec 2004, Mendoza, Argentina
Price   $18.95 (Earls Wine List); ON $9.95
UPC   7794450008800
Score   86/100
Remarks         Full-bodied earthy meaty red that is perfect for the barbecue.

Wine   Mezzomondo Negroamaro 2003, Apulia, Italy
Price   $9.95; ON $7.95
UPC   8032610311346
Score   86/100
Remarks         Smoky warm rustic red with chocolate and black cherry flavours.