Wines That Talk Turkey

It bears repeating for all you bird roasters that, with the exception of its darker hindquarters, most of the turkey is just another white meat and, as such, its flavours are easily manipulated by whatever you put into it. The number one method of "injecting" flavour into a turkey is through the stuffing. So pay particular attention to the ingredients going into the cavity of the turkey.

Now, before you rush off to the store in search of any of today's six picks, please read on. There's only room for six photos each week but I have added a number of back-up suggestions to help you find something suitable. All have been selected to complement a particular flavour but you could take a chance and pair any of the following with your bird.

Bread and sage is my idea of the classic bird stuffing and it's a combination that calls for chardonnay. In particular, it is the softer, buttery style with hints of green apple and herbs that really sets off the savoury dressing flavours.

CedarCreek Chardonnay Estate Select 2004 is our local pick. Winemaker Tom Di Bello has released an attractive, buttery melon-and-honeysuckle white with fine mid-palate richness and creamy butterscotch notes in the finish. There's also enough acidity, freshness and complexity to hold your interest. A solid value B.C. chardonnay.

Other top value chardonnays to look for are Calona Artist Series 2004, Okanagan ($13) and Errazuriz Wild Ferment 2002, Casablanca, Chile ($23). From California, Cuvaison 2003 or 2004, Napa Valley ($35) and Sebastiani Chardonnay 2003, Sonoma County ($23). My Oz picks would be Willowglen 2005 ($12) or the Grant Burge Barossa 2004 South Australia ($20).

If turkey with a meat stuffing is your thing, the trick is to deal with the strong seasoning led by fennel, paprika, chili, clove, ginger, garlic, peppercorn and sage. To counter such fiery flavours, apply cool, fruity, aromatic whites such as riesling, ehrenfelser and or gewürztraminer.

Our pick is the lengthy named Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett 2004 form the Nahe region of Germany. Crisp, ripe, round and succulent, it's lashed with honey, orange, nectarine, pear and floral flavours. Perfect to cope with a big savoury bird.

Other aromatic choices include the Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Dry Classic 2004 ($12), Sumac Ridge Gewurztraminer 2003/2004 ($14) or, from Alsace, Hugel Gewurztraminer 2004. Riesling fans have a wide choice led by the Dr. L and Lingenfelder Bird Series labels, both from Germany and both $17; or, if you prefer a more upscale version, choose the Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese 2003 ($29) or Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2003 ($30).

Turkey with oyster and breadcrumb stuffing, sometimes described as oysters Rockefeller in a pouch, calls for a crisper, drier white. Un-oaked sauvignon blanc would be my choice and even if its lightly oaked it should be fine.

Since all wine stores are closed on Christmas Day, you will want to have a bottle you can rely on and that usually means one without a cork. The Palandri Boundary Road Sauvignon Blanc 2004, under screwcap from Western Australia, fits the bill. Its round, elegant, fresh and packed full of tangy mineral, grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. Fine value.

Other sauvignon blanc possibilities include, Trio 2004, Casablanca, Chile ($15), Geyser Peak 2004, California ($16), Mission Hill Five Vineyards 2004 ($16), Pepi 2003, California ($20) or the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from South Africa ($27).

Pinot noir is the match for earth, mushroom-and-bread stuffing but unfortunately, the movie Sideways has made good pinot more scarce than it already is. Top picks on the shelf from California include Saintsbury Garnet 2004, Carneros, and the Rodney Strong 2004, Sonoma County. New Zealand is also an option, certainly the Stoneleigh and the Matua are worth seeking out.

One of the best pinot labels in the market is the La Crema Pinot Noir 2003 from Sonoma Coast. It's fruity and lively with silky tannins and a touch of tea leaf in the finish. You won't find it in government stores but it is widely available in private wines shops.

Finally, turkey with fruit stuffing, be it plums, figs, apples, cranberries, prunes, or raisins, screams for big, fruity, peppery wines such as syrah or shiraz.

A new label from Chile worth checking out is Viu Manent Secreto Syrah 2004. This is a big peppery red with black cherry jam, sweet-vanilla and gamey, savoury, minty flavours. On the cooler side of the spectrum is Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz 2003 from Barossa Valley, Australia. Woodcutters commemorates winemaker David Powell's lumberjack days in the Scottish Highland. The wine has peppery, savoury, licorice root aromas with black cherry and plum jam flavours flecked with sausage. Both are perfect wines for the bird.

TURKEY WINES

CEDARCREEK CHARDONNAY ESTATE SELECT 2004, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $19.99
UPC: 778913051043
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Attractive buttery melon honeysuckle aromas and flavours with freshness and complexity.

KRUGER-RUMPF MUNSTERER KAPELLENBERG RIESLING KABINETT 2004, NAHE, GERMANY

Price: $26.95

UPC: 4024831130008

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Succulent and fruity.

PALANDRI BOUNDARY ROAD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Price: $18.99

UPC: 83602300010

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh sauvignon with lemon, mineral, gooseberry flavours.

LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2003, SONOMA COAST, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Price: $33.99

UPC: 049331002307

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Excellent New World pinot noir. In private wine shops only.

VIU MANENT SECRETO SYRAH 2004, VALLE DEL COLCHAGUA, CHILE

Price: $16.99

UPC: 7804314945612

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Big peppery, meaty red with licorice and black cherry notes. Good value.

TORBRECK WOODCUTTERS SHIRAZ 2003, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Price: $32.99

UPC: 9333343000316

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Supple and warm on the palate with roasted pepper and tobacco. Cool syrah.