Winemaking at Penfolds Means Inheriting The Style

Being a member of the recent tasting panel reinforced Peter Gago's appreciation that he had become responsible for icons when he took over in 2002 as only the fourth chief winemaker at Penfolds since the legendary Max Schubert after World War II.

The text in The Rewards of Patience, by describing each wine in detail, underlines that the Penfolds winemakers are expected to adhere to well articulated styles. It is desirable to improve the quality of a particular wine. It is not desirable, however, to deviate from style.

"The Grange style is fixed," Gago says about Australia's most famous red wine. "The style is time-honoured."

Considering the responsibility he has, Gago is still relatively young. A 1989 graduate of Roseworthy, Australia's top winemaking school, he spent the first four years of his Penfolds career making sparkling wines. But in 1993 he joined the team making Penfolds red wines, the driving force at the centre of this 159-year-old winery.

Currently, Gago has been presenting Penfolds wines at elite tastings around the world including, most recently, two premier tastings at the Banff Springs Hotel's 12th annual food and wine festival. Consumers packed his tastings to sample trophy wines like Grange, St. Henri and Bin 707 - and to absorb some reassurance that the famous Penfolds style is surviving the corporate storms swirling around Southcorp, the parent of Penfolds.

Gago is frank about how the winemakers feel about the business decisions that devastated Southcorp. "There was a management regime running the company for two and a half years and the company is almost broke," he says. "Here we are, working our innards out - and we get angry." (Southcorp engaged in some disastrous promotional prices in markets like Britain, booking as sales wines still in warehouses.)

"The wines haven't changed at all," Gago asserts. That reflects the winemaking independence of Penfolds (and sister wineries) within the Southcorp group. The winemakers are dedicated to "not altering the Penfolds style and fiercely protecting it."

Grange was famously created in 1951 when Max Schubert, back from a trip to Bordeaux, set out to style a red table wine along the lines of France's long-lived first growths. Forced to use the resources at hand, Schubert employed Shiraz, which is plentiful in Australian vineyards, and he aged the wine in American oak.

Those fundamentals have not changed since. "At the moment, everyone is adding Viognier to Shiraz," Gago says. "Here's the next cycle; this is the current fad. Should we put it into Grange? No." To deal with pressure for a Grange with French oak, Penfolds in 1997 crafted an entirely new wine called RWT Shiraz.

Gago also is defensive of the other Penfolds icons. St. Henri, first made in 1956, is a Shiraz always aged in large, old wooden vats. Bin 707, a Cabernet Sauvignon first made in 1964, is always aged in new American oak.

In an average vintage, Penfolds makes 7,000 to 9,000 cases of Grange. The production is capped by the volume of what Gago calls "class A" quality grapes. The wine is carefully allocated to markets around the world, with current release prices around $250 a bottle.

"A lot of Australians get irate that any goes out of the country," Gago says. "The 1998 was being shipped from wine merchants in London back to Australia, to collectors, within a week of release. The 1998 Grange at the cellar door in Australia sold out in less than two hours."

"My biggest challenge is just to maintain the current armoury and to optimize it in every vintage," says Gago, very much a respecter of the fixed styles of the icons. "We're trying to keep the Grange style. It is not an easy wine to make at that level. If we could make another 1998, or a 1990 or a 1986 Grange again, that alone would be a great lifelong winemaking achievement."

He can place an individual stamp on other wines. When Gago took over as chief winemaker from John Duval, he negotiated an agreement that sees him still making highly individual wines. These include a Sangiovese, released only in Australia where it has begun to do well in competitions. He also makes Pinot Noir and, most recently, a Grenache, released with his signature on the label. "There is plenty of opportunity to do other things with other wines," he says.

Recent Notes

95/100 Penfolds Chardonnay Reserve Bin 00A 2000
South Australia, Australia
This one-off 'special bin' wine was made alongside the 2000 vintage of Penfolds' flagship white wine, Yattarna. On rare occasions, Penfolds winemakers have issued 'one-off' Special Bin wines that allow them to identify unique parcels of quality wine and releasing them as individual ultra-premium wines. Examples such as the Bin 60A, Bin 90A and Kalimna Block 42 wines are highly sought after by wine collectors the world over. Bin 00A stems from the Yattarna chardonnay project and is a blend of chardonnay fruit 75/25 from Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills. The entry is awash in lees and citrus fruit with more creamy mineral lees in the aftertaste. Big complex and as rare as it gets this is a fabulous Oz chardonnay.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: Australia $60.00 Special Events Winery Only
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

92/100 Penfolds Chardonnay Yattarna 2000
Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia
The search for a "white" Grange began in 1992 with total company support something which couldn't be said at the time Max Schubert was working to develop the original Grange Shiraz in the early 1950s. This is the fifth release since the original 1995 and it is a good one. The fruit originates from 100 per cent cool climate sites at Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills. Peach, fresh cut apple and citrus mark the nose and palate of this 100 per cent barrel fermented chardonnay that also goes through 100 per cent malolactic fermentation. It has elegance length, intensity, creamy fruit and complexity like no other Oz chardonnay.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $72.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $84.95 Specialty; ON $89.00; QC $89.50
CSPC: 717512
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

90/100 Penfolds Riesling Reserve 2002
Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia
This 100 per cent Eden Valley riesling was first released in 1999 but it's already establishing itself as a winner. The Stelvin (screw cap) ensures its pure mineral green apple skin nose with citrus lemon flavours and just a hint of toasted honey in the finish. As it ages the wine is expected to "rich-up" and take on more honey and toast characters. Delicious.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $23.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $24.95 Specialty; ON $24.95
CSPC: 468629
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada
 
90/100 Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2002
Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia
The Thomas Hyland labels focused on varietal wines hit a homerun out of the gate and year two maintains the standard. Using mostly Adelaide fruit, and barrel fermenting in 70 per cent new French oak barrels gives the Hyland chardonnay a distinctively creamy lees flavour and texture. Look for a slightly tighter version of Koonunga Hill (although not as firm as Yattarna) with delicious melon, grapefruit, mineral and smoky toasted lees throughout. It's a whole new way to think of Australian chardonnay. Good value too.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $19.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $19.95 Specialty; ON $18.95 Vintages Essentials
CSPC: 611228;   UPC: 012354071940
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

89/100 Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2002
South Australia, Australia
Koonunga Hill Chardonnay is always sourced from multiple districts with significant contributions from McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills. The difference in '02 was the much cooler and longer growing season that's given an always-solid wine, a fabulous lift. Look for impressive pear/apple fruit with a little bit of oak, a little bit of malolactic, some citrus highlights and an attractive creamy finish. This is outstanding value in chardonnay and as good as it gets for the price.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG
Prices: AB $13.75; BC $13.95 Specialty; ON $12.95; QC $14.95
CSPC: 321943;   UPC: 012354071339
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

86/100 Rawson's Retreat Semillon - Chardonnay 2002
South Eastern Australia, Australia
Penfolds Semillon Chardonnay is made with fruit sourced from vineyards in the Barossa Valley, South Australia and Lake Cullulleraine, Victoria and in 2002 a cool vintage the blend really sings. Lifted fruit aromas of pineapple and white peach mesh with nutty grapefruit and melon flavours. Simple well made good value white.
Tasted: 2003-08-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $9.99 Specialty
CSPC: 419242;   UPC: 012354071162
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

98/100 Penfolds Shiraz Grange 1998
South Australia, Australia
What does one say about the 1998 Grange that hasn't already been said. The '98 Grange is serious juice and is not to be missed by the committed collector. It is a big, plummy red that has dense, luscious, raspberry/blackberry fruit streaked with licorice and smoky toasted, mocha flavours. Schubert's recipe of old vines and low yields helps to contain the fruit even at 14 per cent alcohol. It's aged 18 to 22 months in new American oak and it's never released before it fifth year. It's early times but the '98 is already drawing comparison with the famed '96, '90 and '1986 Grange labels -- if anything the '98 is less iconic and more serious. Buy what you can afford.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $225.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $224.95 Specialty; ON $240.00; QC $236.25
CSPC: 336388;   UPC: 012354071100
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

93/100 Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2000
Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
RWT is a single-region (Barossa Valley) shiraz whose initials stand for 'Red Winemaking Trial. It was the working name affixed to the developmental wines as early as 1995 when former chief winemaker John Duval began work on the initial bottlings. The 2000 RWT, a Penfolds shiraz aged exclusively in French oak (60 per cent new and 40 per cent one-year old) is the third release ( there was no 1998) turns three with the 2000 vintage a powerful, masculine, perfumed red that reeks of blueberry and blackberry fruit. The tannins are opulent yet well manicured leaving a wonderfully rich red that has a big future. Well done and clearly a Penfolds label to be reckoned with.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $91.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $109.95 Specialty; ON $110.00; QC $111.75
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

92/100 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2000
Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia
At 12.5 acres the Magill shiraz is the only single vineyard wine in the Penfolds line-up. The current Magill vines, some 50-years old, were saved by Grange founder Max Schubert and his successor winemaker Don Ditter both of whom grasped the historical significance of the original site of Grange and why it should be preserved. The grapes are all handpicked and placed in small wax-lined boxes for transport to the winery. It's aged in 80 per cent French and 20 per cent American new oak for 14 months. The 2000 is a super plush wine with fabulous savoury, chocolate cherry flavours, mid-palate elegance and spice that simply jumps from the glass. The best Magill we've tasted since the early 1990s.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $59.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $69.95 Specialty; ON $70.00 (Chirstmas Holidays Release); QC $70.25
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

91/100 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 2000
South Australia, Australia
At Penfolds the only cabernet made prior to 1990 was the 707 -- a red born to be complex and live long. In 1990 the decision was taken to make a red wine that was more accessible at an earlier age and the "407" was born. Except in 2000, (as with 1981 and 1995 vintages), conditions for cabernet were less than ideal and no Bin 707 was made. This year the fruit was primarily sourced from Coonawarra and Bordertown with those grapes making up over 60 per cent of the final blend with small parcels coming from Margaret River, McLaren Vale, Robe and Padthaway. As a result the 2000 "407" has been supercharged with some lots of wine it would not normally see. Thirty per cent of the wood is new (20/10 French/American and the result is ripe juicy fruit that is not only delicious and drinkable but a definite step above the '99.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $31.25; BC $33.00 Specialty; ON $32.95; QC $33.95
CSPC: 414987;   UPC: 012354071476
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada
 
91/100 Penfolds Cabernet Shiraz Bin 389 2000
South Australia, Australia
Bin 389 is often referred to as "baby Grange" in North America because parts of the wine are matured in the same barrels that held the previous year's Grange. Since 1960, Penfolds has been making Bin 389 by combining the structure of cabernet sauvignon with the richness of shiraz. The fruit is mix of McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Coonawarra with small contributions from Robe, Barossa Valley and Kalimna all of which spends 14 months in 22 per cent new oak with the remainder a mix of one and two-year old American oak. Blackberry and chocolate are the key flavours with smoky licorice undertones. The 2000 "389" is clearly benefiting from the decision NOT to make a 2000 "707" thus leaving some superior lots of cabernet to enrich an already rich red. Soft and round and ready to go but should hold well through 2010.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $34.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $36.95 Specialty; ON $38.95; QC $38.50
CSPC: 309625;   UPC: 012354071209
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

90/100 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 1999
South Australia, Australia
St. Henri is an elegant, multi-district shiraz that is based on Barossa fruit. Since its original 1957 release St Henri has lived in the shadows of the bigger Penfolds red but throughout the last decade it has begun to regain respect for its purity of fruit and style - there is no new oak used here. The '99 has a savoury/spicy/peppery nose with black raspberry fruit and sausage meat flavours. There's 10 per cent cabernet in the mix for stability.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $39.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $44.95 Specialty; ON $46.95; QC $47.75
CSPC: 510875;   UPC: 012354071773
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

90/100 Penfolds Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 2000
South Australia, Australia
Only a small percentage of Kalimna fruit gets into Bin 28 these days but it doesn't seem to affect the quality. The '00 will wow you with its rich sweet vanilla aromas and chocolate cherry fruit. This is an easy-going shiraz with a plush exterior and sweet peppery fruity aftertaste. A fine introduction to the magical Penfolds multi-blend shiraz that features style and substance.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $31.25 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $34.95 Specialty; ON $32.95; QC $33.95
CSPC: 4222782;   UPC: 012354071834
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

89/100 Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2001
South Australia, Australia
The bookend to the Thomas Hyland chardonnay is the shiraz made from select parcels of fruit grown at McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and the Barossa Valley in South Australia. It's mostly matured in used French and American hogsheads to create a more accessible style than the Bin wines. We like the savoury, blueberry, plum fruit flavours and soft tannins. The finish is soft with hints of mocha and fruit cake. Impressive winemaking.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $20.00 Fine Wine Shops; BC $21.95 Specialty; ON $19.95 Vintage Essentials
CSPC: 611210;   UPC: 012354071988
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada

89/100 Penfolds Shiraz Bin 128 2000
Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia
Launched in 1962, Peter Gago says Penfolds Bin 128 reflects the unique climate and growing conditions of the Coonawarra district and the elegant style of cool-climate Shiraz matured in French oak. Look for leather spice and dark black cherry fruit that is almost juicy in 2000. Soft, round and ready-to-go.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $32.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $34.95 Specialty; ON $32.95; QC $33.95
CSPC: 422782;   UPC: 012354071834
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada
 
88/100 Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
South Australia, Australia
Another stylish blend of cool fruit from Coonawarra, Bordertown, Padthaway, Robe and McLaren Vale. The tannins are bit chunky at this point - reflecting its varietal cabernet characteristics. The fruit is a mix of spicy blueberries and cassis. This is the first release in Canada.
Tasted: 2003-06-11 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $20.00 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $21.95 Specialty; ON $19.95 Vintage Essentials
CSPC: 634113;   UPC: 012354076044
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada 

86/100 Rawson's Retreat Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
South Eastern Australia, Australia
Open clean spicy, berry jam nose. Chocolate berry prune flavours with fine weight and richness. Simple, soft and round but well made and well priced.
Tasted: 2003-04-20 by AG
Prices: BC $12.95 Specialty
CSPC: 633651;   UPC: 012354071018
Producer: Penfolds
Distributor: Southcorp Wines Canada