Wine Lists Woes Part Two

Despite their proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the three communities are as different as day and night, but more on that next week.

In the meantime, thanks to all those readers who took the time to respond to last week's column about restaurant wine pricing. It definitely hit a nerve with many who regularly dine out -- or used to.

Clearly there is a fair bit of consternation about the price of wine in restaurants. Dine Out may have deals on the food, but not on the wine, and the size of pours seems to be upsetting diners. It's so irksome, some told me, they have given up eating out.

Clearly there are a growing number of diners who have grown weary of paying through the nose for wine and they want relief. It's also becoming obvious they would dine out more often if they could get a decent bottle at a reasonable price.

Their price list sweet spot is somewhere near $35 and goes up to about $65 but, more than anything, it is the markup that hurts. Twice the original purchase price is plenty for diners, but less than double would be more favourably accepted. They want some value.

My feeling is a table of four would be more likely to buy two bottles of modestly priced wine and really enjoy their dining experience rather than fretting over ordering an $85 bottle and not really savouring it.

Government could help here. The practice of charging restaurants the same price as individual customers buying a single bottle of wine is ridiculous.

This week we look at six terrific Rhone reds that would enhance any wine list.

I suggest local wine list makers consider doubling the cost price of these wines and then subtracting $5 to $10. They might end up with happier customers -- and higher wine sales.

We begin with a cheeky little red that over-delivers for the price. Boutinot Chat-en- Oeuf Cotes du Ventoux 2009 has a peppery, spicy, black licorice nose with black cherry aromas. The palate is dry, fresh and supple with juicy black cherry and plum flavours flecked with more spicy, peppery, licorice and smoky garrigue flavours. Good fruit and intensity, at a great price, from a very good vintage in the Rhone. Great for barbecue duty.

The latest Brotte Cotes du Rhone Les Brottiers 2008 surprises with its intense white pepper nose followed by bits of tobacco, game, black cherry, licorice and dried thyme aromas. The attack is round and ripe, the textures are supple and the palate juicy with a mix of black cherry, plum, raspberry, spicy, tobacco, meaty flavours. It is a drier style from a cooler vintage, but showing excellent fruit and balance. Solid value here. Stock up.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Grenache Syrah 2009 draws its fruit from four vineyards spread across separate Rhone departments in the Drôme, Vaucluse, Gard and Ardèche sitting over a mix of clay and limestone alluvial deposits. The nose is typically peppery with bits of chocolate, licorice and black cherry aromas. The entry is rich, smooth and dry with a slightly tannic but supple palate with fine acidity. More black cherry, plums, dried herbs and flecks of orange mark its spicy finish. Well balanced and still youthful, it has a long warm finish. You can drink this now or cellar it for two to five years. Good value here and interchangeable with the 2008 labels still kicking around in some stores.

Chateau de Montfaucon Baron Louis Cotes du Rhone 2007 is a blend of six Rhone grape varieties: 40 per cent Grenache, 15 per cent Cinsault, 15 per cent Syrah, 10 per cent Carignan, 10 per cent Counoise, 10 per cent mourvèdre. Just over half of the wine is aged in barrels that are on average three years old. The nose is a mix of black licorice, game, dried herbs and black cherry jam aromas. The palate is warm and supple and awash in juicy black cherry jam, chocolate, thyme, plum and smoky, tobacco flavours. Good intensity and fruit suggest further aging is possible for a year or three.

A real favourite from the star 2009 vintage is Cuvee du Vatican Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009. The attack is ripe and smooth yet with juicy acidity and light tannins. Black cherry jam, black raspberry and earthy, licorice, floral, spicy game, mineral and dried herb flavours. Excellent concentration and fruit but on the warm alcoholic side. Drink now with grilled lamb or suitable big meat dishes while the fruit is foremost.

Finally, for those who like their Rhone reds big and rich, look to the Chateau Pesquié Cotes-du-Ventoux Quintessence Rouge 2007. Pesquié is a blend of spicy, barnyard, black cherry and black raspberry aromas flecked with licorice, cedar, beef Oxo and dried herbs or garrigue. Rich, warm, round and suave, the palate is intense with some light tannin. Expect fine acidity with very peppery, smoked meat, Oxo, garrigue, jasmine, black cherry compote, orange peel, licorice root, leather and tobacco flavours. A full blown, slightly rustic style with some warmth, but great concentration. Needs a few years to round out, or try with grilled steak and rosemary now.

Price: $13

UPC: 3430560001419

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Good fruit and intensity at a great price from a good year in the Rhone.

Brotte Cotes du Rhone Les Brottiers 2008, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $17

UPC: 3217661027797

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A drier style but excellent fruit and balance. Solid value here.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Grenache Syrah 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18.50

UPC: 03391181110938

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Full, warm, well balanced and youthful. Good value here.

Chateau de Montfaucon Baron Louis Cotes du Rhone 2007, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $27

UPC: 003760007340024

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Black cherry jam, chocolate, pepper, plums and smoky garrigue flavours.

Cuvee du Vatican Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $25

UPC: 003760006835910

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Excellent concentration and fruit. Drink now with grilled lamb.

Chateau Pesquié Cotes-du-Ventoux Quintessence Rouge 2007, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $30

Score: 03439929910096

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Smoked meat, jasmine, orange and black cherry compote flavours