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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

At last some good news for the world's wine producers and from the most unlikely of places, Canada.

Wine Consumption in Canada Grows Like Mad

Research released by the French behemoth wine fair VinExpo, and its U.K. research partner the IWSR, indicates the Canadian wine market is growing three times faster than the world market in terms of retail sales. The report entitled Current Trends in the International Wine and Spirits Market and Outlook to 2012 was released in Toronto last week, by VinExpo officials.

 

A similar message was echoed by Jon Fredrikson, president of Gomberg Fredrikson & Associates, speaking at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, in Sacramento, America's biggest annual wine-trade exposition. Fredrikson avoided any single market predictions given the current volatility of the US economy but, and it's big but, he said "Wine continues to gain traction among American adult consumers - and especially young adults in their 20's - and it is likely that wine consumption will still continue to expand over the next decade."

 

Between 2003 and 2007, Canadian wine consumption jumped 26.62 per cent. The study predicts similar wine consumption growth through 2012. Incredibly Canadian wine consumption will have increased at a rate of 6.5% per year, compared to the world average annual growth rate of 1.4%.

 

Retail wine sales jumped 29.3% between 2003 and 2007 and all signs point to a further rise of some 26% between 2008 and 2012 to reach $5.642 billion. And just to add some icing to the cake, and maybe some advertising too, sales of still wine in Canada is expected to grow at nearly three times that of the global market: 26% versus 9.5%.

 

Imported wine consumption in Canada rocketed to 26 million cases in 2007, an increase of just under 32 over 2003. That ranks little old Canada as the 6th largest importer of still wine in the world, in terms of volume and this growth it is expected to continue through 2012 at the 30% rate or 37 million cases of imported wine annually.

 

France was recently unseated as the number one wine-drinking country in 2007, by Italy but by 2012 the United States will be the world leader, although if President Obama ever raises a glass of wine in public it could happen a lot sooner.

 

The Canadian market breakdown looks similar although both differ to what we see in the trend-setting British Columbia market. For the record, France leads all suppliers on the Canadian market, with 6.127 million cases exported to Canada in 2007. Italy and Australia follow a close second and third with 5.4 and 4.83 million cases respectively. In British Columbia, Australia while stumbling, leads the USA (read California) followed in order by Italy, Chile and France. Domestic wine sales have also fared well, climbing 16.58% since 2003. In fact B.C. wine as a category is now bigger than any single import category, at least for the moment.

 

Back to wine and today's look at Chile's "signature" grape variety carmenère. There is something about this leafy, herbal, soft tannin, chocolate flavoured red that some consumers can't resist, or can they? New listings in governed store are sparse no doubt due to previous soft sales, yet carmenère is held in high regard by some retail buyers.

 

Viña Chocalán Carmenère 2007 is that typical carmenère bottling with its leafy, dried herb nose and black fruit. The palate is soft, the fruit sweet and the finish supple with dusty chalky tannins and a slight touch of cigarette ash. Certainly fine with grilled meat.

 

The select version of the previous wine Viña Chocalán Carmenère Reserva 2005 is grown at Maipo and all handpicked and aged in French oak. The nose is intense exhibiting brambly liquorice and raspberry fruit nuances. The palate is smooth; the fruit juicy spiked with dried herbs with bits of cigarette ash and dried crushed leaves. Simply a more intense version. Best with grilled meat or hamburger.

This soft juicy savoury De Martino Legado Reserva Carmenère 2006 comes from the De Martino vineyards in Isla de Maipo. The palate is soft and spicy with chocolate/cherry, mocha coffee flavours and that characteristic savoury leafy thread at the backend. A ripe full-bodied, organic carmenère. Well done.

The Natura Carmenère Organic 2007 is on theme with its leafy, peppery, smoky, green olive, cedar, and resin aromas. The palate is rich, round and dry with soft, sleek tannins and chocolate, black olive, cedar, earthy, peppery flavours. Fine solid, chunky carmenère with controlled green.

 

The Viu Manent Reserva Carmenère 2006 comes from near the town of Perallilo in the Colchagua Valley where the vineyard is about 16 years old. All of the wine is aged in wood and most of it is French oak. The textures are suave and supple with that espresso, chocolate, cigarette ash nose and dark chocolate dried herbs plummy fruit flavours. Surprisingly lush for the price. Best with roasted meats especially lamb.

 

Finally the Carmen Carmenère 2007 has taken on a fairly consistent style: spicy, crush leaf notes with bits of black fruit and smoky, earthy, coffee aromas. On the palate it is dry with oregano, cigarette ash and juniper berry fruit flavours and a touch of elevated mid-palate acidity. Not an easy style to love but should be fine with rustic dishes. Hamburgers come to mind.

 


CARMENERE

 

Viña Chocalán Carmenère 2007, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $13.00 private wine stores

UPC 007804603660455

Score 86/100

Remarks Typical carmenère with its leafy dried herb nose and black fruit.

 

Viña Chocalán Carmenère Reserva 2005, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $16.00 private wine stores

UPC 007804603660677

Score 87/100

Remarks Best with grilled meat or hamburger.

 

De Martino Legado Reserva Carmenère 2006, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $20.00 private wine stores

UPC 07804395000309

Score 88/100

Remarks Ripe full-bodied organic carmenère. Well done.

 

Natura Carmenère Organic 2007, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $17.49

UPC 082734620143

Score 87/100

Remarks Good solid, chunky carmenère with controlled herbal character.

 

Viu Manent Reserva Carmenère 2006, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price $20

UPC 07804314935064

Score 88/100

Remarks Surprisingly lush for the price. Best with roasted meats especially lamb.

 

Wine Carmen Carmenère 2007, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $14.00 private wine stores

UPC 677758901554

Score 85/100

Remarks    Should be fine with rustic dishes. Hamburgers come to mind.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.