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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The Playhouse International Wine Festival begins Monday amid speculation surrounding the B.C.

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government's intentions to divest itself of its warehouse and distribution assets as they pertain to liquor. I stress the word distribution because, as far as I can interpret, the government intends to continue to hold sway over the listing, buying and selling of liquor across the province. Even so, there is a lot of cheering in the quasi-private liquor sector where it is thought that any change in the service they now get from government regarding liquor shipments will be an upgrade.

 

Restaurants and private wine stores may benefit the most with some suggesting shipments that take months to arrive could be delivered in weeks and what normally happens in weeks (and what doesn't happen on weekends) could be accomplished over-night. We shall see.

 

Far be it from me to oppose any form of privatization but the same misguided, ill-informed tinkering that gave us the present array of stupid liquor laws and goofy private wine shop regulations seems bent on continuing down the same road. None of the proposed changes address any of the real issues that trouble the liquor business in British Columbia.

 

What we need is a free and open market where the government merely taxes the product at the point of sale. We do not require them to select the wine or beer we drink, nor do we need them to sell it. Once they give up the liquor business, they will most surely become a better and more respected enforcer of the myriad laws surrounding liquor. Throw in the freedom to buy and sell liquor across the country, and government officials could get on with a lot more important issues like education and health and the future economy of British Columbia.

 

In other somewhat related news, the government announced in the budget that the PST rate of 10 per cent on liquor will be reinstated with the re-implementation of the PST. The massive markups on liquor will be reduced to pre-HST levels to balance off the 10 per cent whacked on the 118-120 markup tax. Are you following me? There will be no savings and no mention how much it will cost to change the price of every liquor item in the province again. What a gong show.

 

Now back to wine. There is plenty of wine in our Salut section today, but I thought I would pick six more wines that highlight some of the wineries that have made the effort to attend this year's Playhouse Wine Festival. In all, 175 reps will be wandering our wine stores and restaurants between tastings. By the way, be sure to drop by The Vancouver Sun booth while you are at the festival and pick up our nifty pocket guide to Chilean wine that you can use all year. I will be at the Sun booth between 8 and 9 p.m. on Thursday night to answer your wine queries. See you inside the room.

 

Don't miss the Santa Julia Reserva Syrah Etiqueta Blanca 2010 from Mendoza in government stores. Made by the Zuccardi folks, it's honest, bright, peppery, spicy red wine that's fresh with smoky, savoury, black cherry flavours. A simple, balanced easy style for pasta and meat.

 

The O. Fournier Urban Uco Malbec-Tempranillo 2010 is only sold in the private sector. Why? I don't know. Jose Manuel Ortega is a force on three continents, but has yet to impress the BCLDB. Too bad because it is our loss. A 50/50 mix of Malbec and Tempranillo, this barbecue red is ripe, round and smooth with spicy, blood orange, black cherry, tobacco, gamy flavours. Great value.

 

The Frescobaldi folks have a new release: a Sangio-vese, Ciliegiolo, Syrah mix from Maremma labelled Frescobaldi Pietraregia dell Ammiraglia Riserva 2008. From its smokey, meaty, blackberry, roasted mushroom, nose to its earthy blackberry, cedar, tobacco, leather flavours, this wine grabs your palate. Try it now with beef or pork dishes or cellar it for five years.

 

Local wine grower John Skinner is the man behind Painted Rock Merlot 2009 from Skaha Bench. The nose is a bit old-style chocolate, black cherry, vanilla but the palate is fresher with fine-grained tannins and a flavour mix of black sage, coffee, earth and black tea with fine fruit underneath. It will need another two to four years in bottle to develop properly. Can't wait for this property to go bio-dynamic and settle on a permanent winemaker.

 

I'm sure the Chapoutier booth will be busy, and the M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 2009 will be the reason. The mix is mainly Grenache with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and it's delicious. Spicy, black cherry jam, barn-yard, wild game, plum and gar-rigue aromas dominate. The attack is supple, elegant and fresh with light tannins and juicy black plum, orange, floral, peppery, licorice and chocolate flavours. Love the balance and the fine fruit intensity. Super effort and price.

 

Founder and winemaker Aurelio Montes will be pouring his flagship Montes Alpha M La Finca Estate 2009. You will love the freshness and styling of this mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Lots of refined red berry fruits with a savoury, cedar and black olive undercurrent. Leaner with more finesse and less overwhelming bay leaf character of late. Lots of new French oak, but it is well-integrated after two years in bottle. Steaks anyone?

 

It should be a great week for wine drinkers.

 


IFT Wines

 

Santa Julia Reserva Syrah Etiqueta Blanca 2010, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $15

UPC: 07791728017915

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A simple, easy sipping style for meaty pasta or pizza dishes.

 

O. Fournier Urban Uco Malbec-Tempranillo 2010, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $17

UPC: N/A

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A delicious 50/50 mix of Malbec and Tempranillo with spicy, blood orange, black cherry fruit.

 

Frescobaldi Pietraregia dell Ammiraglia Riserva 2008, Maremma, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $28

UPC: 8007425081197

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Licorice, smoky, blackberry red for hearty stews and short rib dishes.

 

Painted Rock Merlot 2009, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Price: $40

UPC: 00626990105848

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A good bet for the cellar or serve it now with a T-bone steak.

 

M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $52

UPC: 003391181010832

Score: 91/100

Remarks: A delicious well-balanced red that over-delivers for its price.

 

Montes Alpha M La Finca Estate 2009, Apalta Valley, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price: $85

UPC: 007804303271609

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Plenty of refined red berry fruits with a savoury, black olive undercurrent.


Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Liquor+laws+need+more+than+tinkering/6209493/story.html#ixzz1p44YIc63

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.