Whither Coastal Wine?

Those conditions are usually found on the coast or in nearby inland valleys, where every day during the growing season the warm morning sun burns off the fog and heats up the valley air, which in turn rises and pulls in more air off the cold Pacific, thus cooling the vineyards. Because a vineyard doesn't have to be situated on the coast to be affected by that weather pattern, the debate about appellation boundaries -- from Mendocino to Santa Barbara to points east -- apparently never ends. No official resolution of the debate seems to be in sight for consumers, so I decided to approach it the old-fashioned way: in a taste-off. I added a couple of ringers to the tasting, which turned out to be one of the year's best for flavour and sheer drinking enjoyment. Here's what I found: Agustin Huneeus purchased the Pinnacles vineyard at Monterey in 1986. There he uses high altitude and ocean breezes to grow chardonnay in a cool climate. The vines are on the Santa Lucia Highlands, with the Gavilan Mountains to the east and the Santa Lucia Range and Pacific Ocean to the west. The ranges create a channel through which cool sea breezes from Monterey Bay combine with warm Salinas Valley air to create a special mini-climate. Nine strains of chardonnay are used to create the wine's smoky lees and mineral-scented nose with enticing pear, floral and vanilla aspects. Look for delicious pear/apple and sweet honey fruit. Fresh and elegant, it's perfect with seafood. California's "Central Coast" appellation includes San Benito, Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties, areas characterized by sandy soil, warm days and cool, ocean breezes. The fruit for Robert Mondavi's Central Coast chardonnay comes mostly from Monterey County, and all of that from the 250-kilometre-long Salinas Valley. Each morning like clockwork, warm inland air at the southern end of the valley rises, and by 2 p.m. the wind is buffeting the vineyards with cool air pulled in off Monterey Bay. This Mondavi chardonnay has a bright pear/apple/mineral nose, with a scent of butter and warm bread dough. I enjoyed its elegant, cool, crisp flavours -- again, baked apple, mineral and pear. This one is a winner. Among several dinner options to accompany it, the winery suggests lemon chicken with green beans and couscous. There's something irresistible about Villa Mt. Eden chardonnay. It's another Monterey County wine, and like the previous year, the '99 has a rich, spicy, smoky aroma with floral honey tones. Its pear, vanilla, honey and butter flavours (with a streak of mineral/green apple) are intense. Well-balanced, easy to drink and a credit to the "Coastal" collection. (This one is available only at Mark Anthony Wine Stores; for information call 604-739-9463.) The Jekel Gravelstone Vineyard has a similarly cool, Monterey profile: an appealing citrus, toasted lees nose; a tight, bright fruit component; and fine acidity. It's not as fat or weighty as others in the group, but I like the crisp textures and fresh, nectarine/apple finish. It would be a perfect foil for grilled scallops. Chile's "coastal" valley is Casablanca, and one of its stars is the Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay. You'll love its ripe, floral and mango fruit nose and creamy, vanilla/lees character with just a touch of citrus in the background. It has fine balance, plenty of creamy, toasty citrus flavours and a warm finish. This is as good as it gets under $25. The Callaway Coastal is one of many new-wave California chardonnays that rely on freshness for their appeal. It has apple/nectarine flavours and a touch of grapefruit rind in the finish. Time on its lees and partial barrel fermentation help round out the textures for a leaner, more Euro-style finish. Today's final wine is more West Coast than "coastal," but Washington State's Stimson Lane, which also owns Villa Mt. Eden and Chateau Ste. Michelle, exhibits a deft hand with chardonnay. The '99 Columbia Crest has a big, rich, open, peach/melon/apple nose, with a touch of butter. The flavours are light buttered popcorn, with ripe, peachy, melon fruit. It's fun to drink and certainly good value for an American wine. WEST COAST CHARDONNAY Wine: Estancia 1999 Pinnacles, Monterey, California Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 322057 Score: 16.5/20 Comments: Textbook cool climate chardonnay. Wine: Robert Mondavi Coastal 1999, Central Coast, California Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 379180 Score: 16/20 Comments: Best ever from Mondavi. Wine: Villa Mt Eden 1999, Monterey County Price: $21.95 Stock No.: 569566 Score: 16/20 Comments: Screams California. Wine: Jekel 1999 Gravelstone Vineyard, Monterey County, California Price: $20.45 Stock No.: 175513 Score: 16/20 Comments: Fresh, cool, citrus appealing. Wine: Errazuriz 1999 Wild Ferment, Casablanca, Chile Price: $22.95 Stock No.: 545392 Score: 16.5/20 Comments: Balanced and delicious. Wine: Callaway 1999 Coastal Chardonnay, California Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 576702 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Light apple nectarine fruit. Wine: Columbia Crest 1999, Columbia Valley, Washington Price: $17.95 Stock No.: 306670 Score: 15/20 Comments: Buttered popcorn.