White Versus Red - Which Gets Your Vote

Now imagine if it was wine we were voting for and the parties involved were red and white.

It's been nearly 14 years since the CBS news show 60 Minutes declared red wine to be good for your health and consumers haven't stopped drinking it since. Getting consumers to switch back to white has been an uphill struggle for more than a decade, even if many of the reds dominating the market look as old and tired as the current crop of politicians.

There have been some important white-wine campaigns, such as the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement and the Riesling Revolution, but red wine remains the drink of choice for many Canadians. Most are breaking the accepted rules by drinking it with the likes of meat, fish or fowl and they are doing it before, during and after dinner.

I believe there will a turnaround in white-wine consumption and like most wine trends, it will begin first here on the coast. It could arrive as early as the next election -- I mean, this summer.

I'm thinking this way because new white wine has much to offer, led by clean crisper tones, better acidity and a great deal less oak in the flavour. It may seem odd, but in general the food we are served in 2004 is far better suited to white wine than it was in the 1990s. For the first time in a long while, it could be that the food you select to eat will provoke you to change your white wine preference.

Today, we offer six recently tasted whites. Some, like the Jigsaw, are just plain fun. Others are serious food wines. None are tired old caricatures of themselves and all deserve serious contemplation before you vote.

As mentioned, the Rosemount Jigsaw Verdelho Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2003 is a fun white. You'll love its bright white peach and floral notes and grassy melon aromas. It's fruity, fresh and slightly sweet, with heaps of melon and buttery citrus flavours. It is an excellent example of what's now possible at the entry level, given modern wine-making techniques. A fun, easy-drinking, summer sipper that's as fresh and as colourful as its label.

The Domaine de la Charmoise Sauvignon Touraine 2002 is made by winemaker Henry Marionnet, who is regarded in France as one of the best producers of red and white wine in the Touraine. His sauvignon comes with intense canned asparagus and floral, grapefruit rind notes mixed with mineral aromas. Its dry, crisp, elegant and svelte styling previews similar flavours of asparagus, bell pepper and grapefruit rind with more crisp, dry, mineral notes in the finish. Bring on the seafood.

California's Fetzer Fume Blanc Echo Ridge 2002 has an attractive grapefruit, vanilla, kiwi, grassy melon nose typical of "California" sauvignon blanc. Round and smooth on entry, there is a touch of sweetness to accompany its fresh grapefruit, green melon, grassy mineral flavours. It is well balanced with a dry, chalky finish. A fine and affordable effort.

Pascal Jolivet, quickly becoming a Loire Valley legend, has crafted a pristine sauvignon that screams more grape than terroir. His ode to the New World is Attitude Sauvignon 2002. Look for an intense grapefruit rind and tinned asparagus nose with a touch of green melon. The wine is dry, round and lean in style with dusty green apple, asparagus, grapefruit rind and gooseberry flavours. The crisp finish begs for grilled oysters or shellfish. Jolivet's Attitude is totally hip and could be a white wine leader for the ages.

A new listing in private wine shops worth seeking out is Morande Terrarum Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003. This Casablanca Chilean sauvignon comes wrapped in a fresh gooseberry, grapefruit and mineral jacket. It is crisp and juicy on the palate with more mineral, grapefruit rind, green apple and chalky melon flavours. It would be a fine choice with simply prepared seafood.

Our final pick is the Turnbull Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2001 out of Napa Valley. Skellenger Vineyards is the source of most of the sauvignon used at Turnbull, half of which is made with the sauvignon musque clone and its lime-scented fruit. The blend gets an extra smattering of three- to five-per-cent viognier and malvasia bianca that help elevate the floral notes in the wine; there is also seven-per-cent semillon to fatten the mid-palate.

At 60-per-cent stainless-steel-fermented juice and 40-per-cent barrel-fermented, this is modern American sauvignon at its best. The wine is streaked with lime citrus notes and refreshing fruit flavours in the finish. An excellent, Napa-style, summer-sipping sauvignon that is well worth the price.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Sauvignon Blanc

Wine Rosemount Jigsaw Verdelho Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Australia
Price $10.49
UPC 012894968113
Score 14.0/20
Remarks Fine fruit in an easy-drinking, fun commercial summer sipper.

Wine Domaine de la Charmoise Sauvignon Touraine 2002, Loire, France
Price $22.95
UPC 831906001521
Score 15.0/20
Remarks Dry, crisp, svelte styling and a crisp mineral finish.

Wine Fetzer Fumé Blanc Echo Ridge 2002, California
Price $14.99
UPC 082896710270
Score 14.0/20
Remarks Fresh grapefruit, green melon, grassy mineral flavours.

Wine Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon 2002, Loire, France
Price $25.95
UPC 3490960007138
Score 15.0/20
Remarks Green apple, asparagus, grapefruit rind and gooseberry flavours.

Wine Morandé Terrarum Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003, Valle de Casablanca, Chile
Price $17.49
UPC 7804449103031
Score 15.0/20
Remarks Big flavour, well balanced and crisp. A terrific fish wine.

Wine Turnbull Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2001, Oakville, Napa Valley, California
Price $29.95
UPC 793589067501
Score 15.5/20
Remarks Lime citrus notes and refreshing fruit make for a summer-sipping sauvignon.