What's in a Score?

Wait a minute; this is a wine column, what does a Canucks goal in Vancouver, disallowed from a replay booth in Toronto, have to do with a wine column ? Well, now that you mention it, quite a lot. You see the score is not always what it should be and the further away from it you are, the less likely you are to interpret it correctly. Cue the wine.

If I read another explanation about how and why wines are scored, and how and why they should be scored, I think I'm going to be ill. Let me assure you, the future of the wine world or your winery does not hinge on any one score, or star, or any other symbol given by any writer or magazine, or, yes, even this newspaper.

The point system is and always has been a quick indication of what the writer thinks of the wine. The long answer is in the comments or notes, and does it matter if it is a string of aroma/flavour descriptors or off-the-wall comments that liken it to a Hollywood movie star's anatomy ? The real question is: how much faith do you put in the critic's work? What are his or her credentials to be commenting on any wine, and how do you put it all in perspective?

If you are OK with using someone else's judgment to help you select a wine, it doesn't absolve you from at least knowing something about that writer and perhaps buying a recommendation or two to see if your taste are compatible.

I've known people who have bought wines Robert Parker has scored under 90 points. Yes there is wine life under 90 points, because some readers prefer the subtlety and restraint in style that Parker often eschews for richer, denser more alcoholic wines - even if they are balanced.

The point is you that have to take some responsibility for your own palate. It's a thin line. While I have often begged British Columbians to become smarter, savvier, brighter wine tasters (because it means retailers will have to sell you better wine than they do), it doesn't mean everyone with a keyboard should be scoring and commenting on wine for public consumption.

As for those who refuse to "rate" wines, suggesting that you would never rate a painting out of 100, I say fine but I have the nagging suspicion you know what you like and you buy what you like. Or maybe you know nothing at all, so reviews are not required. But how does that painting or sculpture get into the Louvre museum? I'm betting someone made a selection.

In the 30 years I have been rating wines, the one thing I have noticed is that scores have become inflated. When I was in school a B+ was nothing to sniff at, and getting any sort of A was something to strive for, except for the brilliant. Now with such a focus on getting straight As, B grades seem of little interest to anyone. This appears to be the case in wine scoring. Wines that garner 90 points or more get most of the attention at retail, and frankly so do the critics that issue the high scores. Hmmm ... high scores, worldwide recognition, maybe there is something to this scoring business. Not all wines are equal, not all producers are talented and neither are all wine writers. Scores are just one way to keep track. If you have a better idea, step up to the plate and let us hear it.

Now back to that replay.

Three Winds Viognier 2011, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

Price      $14.00

UPC       3760143270629

Score    86/100

Remarks              A refreshing ginger, nutty lees, spicy, honey, floral nose with apricot and orange aromas. Round, soft, fresh, off-dry palate with more ginger, quince, honey, slate and baked apple flavours. An easy-sipping, forward style that can be served with a variety of foods from sushi to chicken and crab.

Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2011, Rheinhessen, Germany

Price      $18.00

UPC       04022642000749

Score    86/100

Remarks              Fritz's Riesling is designed to be fun and refreshing. Expect a fresh floral, honey nose with bits guava and ripe apple aromas. Ripe, round, fresh but a bit soft and sweet. Baked apple, honey, peach, grapefruit flavours. Good fruit with a bit of fatness in the finish.

Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserve 2010, San Juan, Argentina

Price      $14.50

UPC       00852832105527

Score    87/100

Remarks              The nose is a mix of pepper, spicy, black cherry and liquorice flecked with tobacco. The attack is warm and fresh with earthy, liquorice, black pepper, black cherry and savoury flavours. A solid, fresh, simple style red that is fruit-forward and offers solid value. Think hamburgers all summer.

Rocland Chocolate Box Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

Price      $25.00

UPC       00870933000152

Score    87/100

Remarks              Typically Barossa on the nose showing blackberry jam, blueberry and liquorice with 'chocolate', vanilla and smoky, rubber aromas. Ripe smooth and dense on the palate with more coffee, dark chocolate, vanilla, cedar and blackberry jam flecked with resin, leafy tobacco and prune flavours. Tart and warm in the finish but with plenty of fruit and oak that will appeal to lovers of this old style Oz red. Grilled lamb is the ticket here.

M. Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Mathilda Shiraz 2010, Victoria, Australia

Price      $22.00

UPC       817796011703

Score    89/100

Remarks              Chapoutier in Victoria, Australia using a mix of Pyrénées and Heathcote shiraz. Look for a savoury, meaty, pepper nose with liquorice and black cherry aromas. The attack is full, dry and smooth with black cherry fruit intertwined with dried herbs, sausage meat, liquorice, black pepper, prunes and tar flavours. A cooler, savoury style that delivers fine weight and texture for the price. Super value here. Try it with your favourite meat pie.

Insoglio del Cinghiale 2011, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy

Price      $38

UPC       8032937311203

Score    90/100

Remarks              Insoglio del Cinghiale is the little brother of the famed Tenuta di Biserno from Maremma. The blend is a mix of syrah, cabernet franc and merlot and like its big brother it is remarkably consistent from year to year. The '11 is a supple red, attractively styled with fabulous texture and weight to support a rich palate of liquorice, spicy black fruit and grilled meat flavours. Some 40 percent of the wine is spends four months in new and second year French oak barrels. The rest remains in stainless steel tanks. A country red with a lot of style.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Critics+created+equal/8239195/story.html#ixzz2RyOjMvhB