Western Eh! Beyond Remote

The producers of WA, as it is widely known -- or Western Eh! as this writer prefers -- are about to tour the Western United States. But based on the reputation of Vancouver as a hotbed of wine drinkers, not to mention great food, several growers have made a significant effort to drop by the British Columbia market on their way down the West Coast of the United States.

They will meet with a small group of buyers, distributors and media early next week to exchange thoughts and, of course, share some wine. Based on a recent trip to Western Australia, and its many sub-regions, they are in for a very pleasant surprise.

WA's traditional acclaim has been built upon cabernet and chardonnay and most of that from the Margaret River region, but three decades of work has spawned the development of new areas and some very tasty sauvignon blanc, semillon, riesling and shiraz.

In the case of the sauvignon and semillon, WA producers combined them in varying amounts and they are ordered in wine bars under the snappy acronyms of SSBs or SBSs depending upon the amount of each variety in the blend. We should be doing the same here.

WA is the largest state in Australia and, while it's perhaps best known globally for its surf, it is the gorgeous Mediterranean climate that does its work over the wine-producing regions of the southwest that include the Swan District near the State capital Perth and, further south, the regions of Peel, Geographe, Blackwood Valley, Pemberton, Manjimup, Great Southern and Margaret River.

With only four per cent of the total Oz production, Western Australia is easy to overlook, but it's where that four per cent sits in the quality ladder (near the top) that should make you want to pay attention.

There is one small catch: these wines have always been pricey, or at least a few dollars more than their East Coast counterparts. The good news is, given the current price of B.C. wine, some of these labels are beginning to look like bargains.

Western Australia has much to offer, although at the moment it is vastly under-represented in British Columbia. If flavour and quality count for anything, the numbers should grow substantially in the years ahead.

The MadFish Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2006 is simply delicious. In fact, it's the kind of wine we should be making in the Okanagan. Round, clean and fresh, it's slightly dry on the palate with good gooseberry, passion fruit, grapefruit rind, smoky mineral flavours.

The Goundrey Homestead Chardonnay Unwooded 2005 from the Great Southern is the bargain wine of Australia. It's terrific value, white wine that delivers on all accounts without the use of any oak. The fruit comes from south Western Australia, including the cooler Mount Barker region where Homestead is located. Look for fine minerality and a tight nervous palate that shows just enough ripe fruit to balance it all out.

Stella Bella Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc 2004 is a Margaret River star. This delicious 60/40 blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc is wood free, but for one per cent. Lip-smacking fresh on the palate with bright mineral notes, green peach and a long silky polished finish. It's so good you can only buy it in private wine shops. Serve with a variety of shellfish.

The latest Pink from Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Rose 2005 is as good as the last. Fresh and juicy under screwcap, it mixes the red berry, fruit flavours of merlot and cabernet with floral notes and touch of licorice. This is a classic, summer-patio sipper that should work well with a wide range of light summer menu items.

The Ferngrove Merlot 2004 will surprise with its cedar, smoky, tobacco, peppery nose streaked with cherry and olive notes. The palate is round and supple with more cherry, tobacco, peppery, cedar, olive flavours. It has fine fruit and shows some finesse. Best with grilled meats or poultry.

The Palandri Shiraz 2002 appears to be the vintage that never changes. It's been around for a couple of years, if not more. Look for crushed black pepper notes on the nose and soft, smooth textures on entry. The flavour is a mix of blackberry jam, peppery, spicy, coffee and some obvious acidity. It's ready to drink.

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MadFish Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon 2006, Western Australia
Price: $16.99, private wine shops only
UPC: 9320403000331
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fresh gooseberry, passion fruit, grapefruit and smoky mineral flavours.

Goundrey Homestead Chardonnay Unwooded 2005, Great Southern, Western Australia
Price: $14.99
UPC: 9316369013157
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Not your typical fruit bomb. Killer value.

Stella Bella Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Margaret River, Western Australia
Price: $24.99, private wine shops only
UPC: 855785000147
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Lip-smacking fresh with bright mineral notes and green peach flavours.

Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Rose Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Margaret River, Western Australia
Price: $19.04
UPC: 09310194452143
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fresh and juicy, it mixes red berries with floral fruit flavours.

Ferngrove Merlot 2004, Western Australia
Price: $19.99
UPC: 9329382000059
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Supple, warm palate with cherry, tobacco, peppery, cedar, olive flavours.

Palandri Shiraz 2002, Margaret River, Western Australia
Price: $23.14
UPC: 836023000006
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Ripe, blackberry jam, peppery, spicy, coffee flavours.