After a few warm days in Vancouver, restaurants are getting nervous.
What will they do with all those big alcoholic reds they have been selling us all winter or those tannic, oaky, overpriced, self-proclaimed icon reds that are particularly hideous when served warm?
Management, I say, management.
It is forethought that turns an ordinary day on the patio into a great afternoon or evening. What we want are fresh, aromatic dry whites, rosés, un-oaked chardonnays, crisp grüner veltliners, dry floral rieslings, spicy fruity gewürztraminers -- well, you get the point. It's officially summer.
The problem is that too many buyers have spent the winter studying the soil structure of some obscure French appellation or perhaps the difference between superiore, supérieur or umpteen other obscure wine laws designed to equip you with mostly esoteric information that makes you feel accomplished but won't help you much if the white wine is warm and red wine is even warmer.
Imagine taking a one-day crash course in understanding and serving summer-style wines: where to find them, how to serve them and with which foods. Now that is really useful information you can entertain your guests with.
The most important rule is an offshoot of the Boy Scout mandate: Be prepared. Sooner or later, it's going to get hot for a few days, if not weeks, in Vancouver, so there is no excuse for not being ready. Is it so hard to chill some sauvignon blanc or rosé ahead of time? Why not entice us with a large tub of ice containing a dozen interesting lunch or aperitif-style wines explicitly suited to summer?
I'm sure most customers would rather wait for their white wine to warm up a little bit on a hot day than sit around while you chill the bottle for 20 minutes. Who knows, you may even sell an extra bottle if you get off to a fast start. Oh, and you can use the same tub to cool down those red wines to cellar temperature instead of the deadly ambient, restaurant kitchen temperature.
If you are hosting a patio party at home, have a large tub of ice and water ready so your guests can super-chill their own wine in minutes. It may seem obvious, but don't set up the cooling station in the sun -- it doesn't work.
Now that we are prepared for the heat, here are some of the freshest, juiciest summer sippers I have tasted this year. All six bottles are guaranteed to turn any patio party into a cool event.
There is something about sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux that is not only correct, but very drinkable too. Dourthe has done a fine job for more than a decade with its Dourthe No. 1 Sauvignon Blanc 20th Anniversary 2007, even if it lives in obscurity under its white Bordeaux moniker. We love its restrained, lightly smoky fruit flavours flecked with minerals, ripe grapefruit and just a dash of lees or oatmeal. Cool, calm and sophisticated, it is the perfect solo apéritif, or serve it with grilled chicken or fish dishes.
Domaine Joel Delaunay Touraine 2006 is a crisp, fresh sauvignon made for food. After fermentation, the sauvignon is left on its fine lees for three months to help develop texture and complex flavours of citrus and nectarine skin. It's perfectly clean and fresh; you can drink this all summer on the coast. Well done.
I've tasted Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc 2007 several times this year and it remains deliciously fresh. Made by Chile's quiet superstar winemaker, Alvaro Espinoza, it's bursting with floral, grapefruit rind, mineral and passion fruit aromas kissed with a touch of lemon. Elegant and fresh, it hits the palate with dried herbs, pepper, grassy passion fruit and light asparagus flavours. Finesse and balance. Terrific value and cool sophistication for its price. Buy this one by the case.
The Perrin folks have hit the nail on the head with their La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé. The nose is bright and fresh with citrus/mineral, red fruit notes. Not too dry, the entry is crisp and lip-smacking with more mineral, raspberry, floral fruit notes and a whistle-clean finish. A winner under a screwcap. All you need is a picnic basket and a blanket. Killer value.
Wow! I love the style of the Espelt Coralí Rosé 2007. It's so fresh with lots of lemon/citrus fruit and floral characters. Lip- smacking, dry, fresh and lively, it begs for food. Once you taste it, you won't be able to stop drinking it. Pair it with food and you will sip this baby all night.
You get a good feeling from Folie à Deux Ménage a Trois Rose 2007 the moment its unusual merlot-syrah-gewürztraminer blend hits your palate. It's a delicious mix of red fruits, citrus and a bit of sugar, but when served well-chilled it is the perfect tonic to a warm summer day and many a spicy dish.
Good value too.
DOURTHE NO. 1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 20TH ANNIVERSARY 2007, BORDEAUX, FRANCE
Price: $18
UPC: 3258691241067
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Cool, calm and sophisticated. Serve with grilled chicken or fish dishes.
DOMAINE JOEL DELAUNAY TOURAINE 2006, LOIRE, FRANCE
Price: $20
UPC: 3514310000027
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Perfectly clean and fresh, you can drink this all summer.
QUINTAY CLAVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE
Price: $15
UPC: 07804613410019
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Stupid good; stupid value.
LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE 2007, SOUTHERN RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price: $13
UPC: 00631470000124
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A winner under a screwcap. All you need is a picnic basket and a blanket.
ESPELT CORALI ROSE 2007, EMPORDE, CATALUNYA, SPAIN
Price: $16
UPC: 00805109445017
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Wow! Once you taste it, you will want another glass and another and ....
FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS ... ROSE MERLO-SYRAH-GEWURZTRAMINERK 2007, CALIFORNIA
Price: $18
UPC: 00099988371080
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A delicious mix of red fruits, citrus and, yes, a bit of sugar, but it's summer.