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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

After a few warm days in Vancouver, restaurants are getting nervous.

Warm Reds, Cold Nights and other Wine Nightmares

What will they do with all those big alcoholic reds they have been selling us all winter or those tannic, oaky, overpriced, self-proclaimed icon reds that are particularly hideous when served warm?

Management, I say, management.

 

It is forethought that turns an ordinary day on the patio into a great afternoon or evening. What we want are fresh, aromatic dry whites, rosés, un-oaked chardonnays, crisp grüner veltliners, dry floral rieslings, spicy fruity gewürztraminers -- well, you get the point. It's officially summer.

 

The problem is that too many buyers have spent the winter studying the soil structure of some obscure French appellation or perhaps the difference between superiore, supérieur or umpteen other obscure wine laws designed to equip you with mostly esoteric information that makes you feel accomplished but won't help you much if the white wine is warm and red wine is even warmer.

 

Imagine taking a one-day crash course in understanding and serving summer-style wines: where to find them, how to serve them and with which foods. Now that is really useful information you can entertain your guests with.

 

The most important rule is an offshoot of the Boy Scout mandate: Be prepared. Sooner or later, it's going to get hot for a few days, if not weeks, in Vancouver, so there is no excuse for not being ready. Is it so hard to chill some sauvignon blanc or rosé ahead of time? Why not entice us with a large tub of ice containing a dozen interesting lunch or aperitif-style wines explicitly suited to summer?

 

I'm sure most customers would rather wait for their white wine to warm up a little bit on a hot day than sit around while you chill the bottle for 20 minutes. Who knows, you may even sell an extra bottle if you get off to a fast start. Oh, and you can use the same tub to cool down those red wines to cellar temperature instead of the deadly ambient, restaurant kitchen temperature.

 

If you are hosting a patio party at home, have a large tub of ice and water ready so your guests can super-chill their own wine in minutes. It may seem obvious, but don't set up the cooling station in the sun -- it doesn't work.

 

Now that we are prepared for the heat, here are some of the freshest, juiciest summer sippers I have tasted this year. All six bottles are guaranteed to turn any patio party into a cool event.

 

There is something about sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux that is not only correct, but very drinkable too. Dourthe has done a fine job for more than a decade with its Dourthe No. 1 Sauvignon Blanc 20th Anniversary 2007, even if it lives in obscurity under its white Bordeaux moniker. We love its restrained, lightly smoky fruit flavours flecked with minerals, ripe grapefruit and just a dash of lees or oatmeal. Cool, calm and sophisticated, it is the perfect solo apéritif, or serve it with grilled chicken or fish dishes.

 

Domaine Joel Delaunay Touraine 2006 is a crisp, fresh sauvignon made for food. After fermentation, the sauvignon is left on its fine lees for three months to help develop texture and complex flavours of citrus and nectarine skin. It's perfectly clean and fresh; you can drink this all summer on the coast. Well done.

 

I've tasted Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc 2007 several times this year and it remains deliciously fresh. Made by Chile's quiet superstar winemaker, Alvaro Espinoza, it's bursting with floral, grapefruit rind, mineral and passion fruit aromas kissed with a touch of lemon. Elegant and fresh, it hits the palate with dried herbs, pepper, grassy passion fruit and light asparagus flavours. Finesse and balance. Terrific value and cool sophistication for its price. Buy this one by the case.

 

The Perrin folks have hit the nail on the head with their La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé. The nose is bright and fresh with citrus/mineral, red fruit notes. Not too dry, the entry is crisp and lip-smacking with more mineral, raspberry, floral fruit notes and a whistle-clean finish. A winner under a screwcap. All you need is a picnic basket and a blanket. Killer value.

 

Wow! I love the style of the Espelt Coralí Rosé 2007. It's so fresh with lots of lemon/citrus fruit and floral characters. Lip- smacking, dry, fresh and lively, it begs for food. Once you taste it, you won't be able to stop drinking it. Pair it with food and you will sip this baby all night.

 

You get a good feeling from Folie à Deux Ménage a Trois Rose 2007 the moment its unusual merlot-syrah-gewürztraminer blend hits your palate. It's a delicious mix of red fruits, citrus and a bit of sugar, but when served well-chilled it is the perfect tonic to a warm summer day and many a spicy dish.

 

Good value too.

 


DOURTHE NO. 1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 20TH ANNIVERSARY 2007, BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Price: $18

UPC: 3258691241067

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Cool, calm and sophisticated. Serve with grilled chicken or fish dishes.

 

DOMAINE JOEL DELAUNAY TOURAINE 2006, LOIRE, FRANCE

Price: $20

UPC: 3514310000027

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Perfectly clean and fresh, you can drink this all summer.

 

QUINTAY CLAVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE

Price: $15

UPC: 07804613410019

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Stupid good; stupid value.

 

LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE 2007, SOUTHERN RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE

Price: $13

UPC: 00631470000124

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A winner under a screwcap. All you need is a picnic basket and a blanket.

 

ESPELT CORALI ROSE 2007, EMPORDE, CATALUNYA, SPAIN

Price: $16

UPC: 00805109445017

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Wow! Once you taste it, you will want another glass and another and ....

 

FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS ... ROSE MERLO-SYRAH-GEWURZTRAMINERK 2007, CALIFORNIA

Price: $18

UPC: 00099988371080

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A delicious mix of red fruits, citrus and, yes, a bit of sugar, but it's summer.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.