Warm Days Cool Wines

So while the nation may be dumping its sleek shades for this season's giant-sized sunglasses the shifts in wine buying tend to be more subtle evolving over season's rather than months.

Similarly, conservative wine drinkers tend to lag behind even the slowest evolving changes in the business such as the trend toward less obvious oak.

The taste of oak has long be associated with New World wine and to a lesser degree those of the Old World but extended air drying of the oak staves prior to assembly, better coopers and plenty of experimentation has changed the way many winemakers use oak barrels.

Today winemakers talk about better-integrated oak and it usually means fermenting only a portion of the juice in barrels instead of all of it. In addition, the wood tends to be a mix of ages versus the all-new mantra of the past, again to keep the overt oaky/vanilla flavours from dominating the wine.

Here in British Columbia where shifts in wine taste are the quickest on the continent many leading edge drinkers are eschewing wood all together in their summer sippers opting for the cleanest, freshest, expression of the fruit. Throw on a screwcap and you have the recipe for uncluttered, super fresh wine that speaks to a lot of our food.

As the temperatures soar this weekend, it is a good time to remember that the new red is white and the more eclectic the better. Okay, I did say change takes time, but if you are willing to try something new, any of today's picks should refresh your weekend. Remember do not be afraid to plunge any of the following bottles into a bath of ice water for 20 minutes before serving.

I am really enjoying the unpretentious Gustav Adolf Schmitt Riesling Classic 2004 from Rheinhessen, Germany. At $11, its floral, ripe, red apple nose with flecks of mineral, peach and Vaseline notes over delivers. The fruit is fresh and tangy with green apple, nectarine skin and juicy citrus flavours. A well- balanced, fresh style for drinking anytime. Good value.

A few dollars more buys you the honey and guava scented Moselland Divinum Riesling Kabinett 2003 from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region of Germany. It's fresh, elegant palate is bursting with mineral, slate-y, citrus, peach and baked pear flavours. Very tasty.

For pure style pick up the Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 2004 from the Rheingau. From it's bright orange label to its chalky, slate, green apple skin and citrus rind aromas this wine is a winner. Packed with finesse for the money it is a delicious crisp, fresh riesling you shouldn't miss. A thoroughly modern white for modern times.

Yalumba is one of the few Down Under wineries moving quickly into the clean and fresh zone as seen in its Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2004. Grassy, gooseberry, bell pepper notes mix with mineral, grapefruit rind and green apple skin/kiwi fruit flavours. The style is crisp with fine varietal definition. Solid value.

New form Chile and catching the fresh fever is Undurraga's Aliwen Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2004. Again, it opens with grassy, lemon, gooseberry aromas followed by chalky mineral, gooseberry, grapefruit rind, lemon flavours. A food wine for oysters and clams.

Finally, the benefits of moving back to clean, fresh white wine opens up a new world of Northern Italian wines such as the Cecchi Litorale Vermentino 2004. Expect the unexpected with pear, gooseberry, floral, citrus, mineral melon aromas flavours. This has summer seafood written all over it or perhaps a picnic on the beach. Get it while it is fresh.

Weekend Whites

Wine Gustav Adolf Schmitt Riesling Classic 2004, Rheinhessen, Germany
Price $10.95
UPC 4006975023088
Score 86/100
Remarks    Well balanced, fresh style for drinking anytime. Good value.

Wine Moselland Divinum Riesling Kabinett 2003, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Price $15.50
UPC 4006975015502
Score 87/100
Remarks    Fresh, mineral, slate-y, citrus, peach and baked pear flavours.

Wine Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 2004, Rheingau, Germany
Price $15.99
UPC 4018847101336
Score 87/100
Remarks    A thoroughly modern white for the times.

Wine Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2004, South Australia
Price $12.99
UPC 9311789392219
Score 86/100
Remarks    Easy, crisp style with good varietal definition. Solid value.

Wine Aliwen Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2004, Region del Valle Central, Chile
Price $13.99
UPC 7804315000693
Score 87/100
Remarks    A food wine for oysters and clams.

Wine Cecchi Litorale Vermentino 2004, Tuscany, Italy
Price $17.95
UPC 8006030039999
Score 88/100
Remarks    Fine summer seafood wine. Get it while it's fresh.