Waning Wine Selection Is New Government Specialty

The "we are back in business" edict may inspire members of the B.C. Government Employees Union, but it's a depressing thought for most wine buyers, whose choice once again will be limited to whatever the government thinks you should be drinking.

Don't be fooled by private wine store signs. Everything they buy and sell is subject to government intervention, hefty taxes and, by default, a long, tangled web of paperwork.

Since the monopoly first announced that they bring no special talents or purpose to retailing, warehousing or distributing alcohol back in 2002, the selection of new and interesting wines has all but dried up.

The move away from specialty, hard-to-find wine (the kind that adds lustre to the portfolio) in favour of yet another boring, big-brand producer label is exactly why the government should have got out of the business in the first place.

If management of the B.C. Liquor Distribution Branch truly believes it is "back in business," it might be appropriate if it began acting like a business. If provincial premiers ever get serious about removing interprovincial trade restrictions on liquor, Alberta retailers will own this market in a month.

This week's picks begin with Hardy's Nottage Hill Chardonnay 2003. The nose is an inviting mix of honey, floral and peach aromas streaked with citrus butter. It is round and smooth on entry with just a hint of oiliness that you find in more expensive versions. It is a touch sweet (in the "yellow tail" style), but there is fine acidity and a smooth buttery, vanilla/peach and apple/honey finish. When I first tasted this 750-ml bottle of Oz chardonnay earlier this month, I called it solid and affordable. Since then, the wine has shown up in B.C. liquor stores in 1.5-litre bottles for the same $10.99. Now that's a bargain.

Winemaker Mark Wendenberg is perhaps B.C.'s best kept secret, given that he's the man behind so many well-made Sumac Ridge wines. In this case, the Sumac Ridge Gewurztraminer Private Reserve 2002 covers all the bases with its bright fruit, a touch of lychee-nut fruit, a dash of citrus and a pinch of spice. It's lighter than you might expect, making it more of a sipper than a food wine, but who's complaining? Drink now and all spring and summer.

Given B.C.'s propensity for producing quality pinot blanc and pinot gris, it's particularly instructive to taste wines from Alsace, where both varieties flourish, albeit in a totally different style.

The Pierre Sparr Pinot Blanc Reserve 2002 comes with impressive mineral, chalky, citrus, quince-fruit aromas and some floral notes. It is moderately rich and round on the palate yet quite elegant with plenty of baked pear, quince, mineral and citrus flavours. Good acidity, dry and fresh with a long apple finish. It will match all types of fish, or just serve and sip. Excellent effort.

Another fine bet is the Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Reserve 2002 that opens with enticing slate, honey and pear aromas backed up with citrus and apple notes. It too is rich, ripe, round and fatter than most any New World gris, yet there is fine acidity too. Look for a big flinty, mineral, orange and baked-pear flavour with butter and honey streaks in the finish. It is long, intense and ripe but crisp on the finish. Try it with scallops or prawns in a citrus, butter sauce.

The entire Yalumba Y Series continues to impress me, led by the latest edition, Yalumba Shiraz Y Series 2001. Rich and round, it is a sweet and spicy mix of licorice, mocha chocolate and black fruit from the front of the palate to the back. This is the type of inexpensive Oz shiraz that deserves all the fuss; the rest are just pretenders. Drink or hold a year or two for even more reward.

Finally, Italian retailer Neil Empson's recent visit to Vancouver shone the light back on his A Mano Primitivo 2001. Unlike old-style primitivo, the A Mano has none of the volatile cooked flavours that plague some southern Italian wines. Look for ripe, cherry-jam fruit with spicy clove undertones -- some might describe the nose as pinot noir-like. Consumers will be attracted to its round, supple entry bright fruit and firm, full-flavoured, toasted finish. Dry, fruity, refreshing and affordable -- definitely in the running for the barbecue red wine of the year.

Weekend Wine Tasting:  New Listings

Wine Hardys Nottage Hill Chardonnay 2003, South Eastern Australia
Price $10.99 1.5L
UPC 9311043057144
Score 14/20
Remarks  Good clean, solid Oz chardonnay at a giveaway price.

Wine Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer Private Reserve 2002 Okanagan Valley, B.C.
Price $13.49
UPC 778876128936
Score 15/20
Remarks Bright fruit with a dash of citrus. Drink now and all summer.

Wine Pierre Sparr Pinot Blanc Reserve 2002, Alsace, France
Price $17.90
UPC 97871000987
Score 16/20
Remarks Baked pear, quince, mineral and citrus flavours.

Wine Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Reserve 2002, Alsace, France
Price $25.90
UPC 97871000291
Score 16.5/20
Remarks Flinty mineral, orange, baked pear flavours with butter and honey.

Wine Yalumba Shiraz Y Series 2001, South Australia
Price $18.99
UPC 9311789005706
Score 15.5/20
Remarks Inexpensive Oz shiraz that deserves all the fuss.

Wine A Mano Primitivo 2001, Apulia, Italy
Price $17.45
UPC 8026705101103
Score 15/20
Remarks Ripe cherry jam fruit with warm spicy clove undertones.