Wal-Mart without the Rollbacks

True, it was a bottle of cognac, not wine, but the point is there are still a few people with disposable income who don't mind spending it on high-priced liquor and wine.

We mention the sale because, as extravagant a purchase as it was, the sale of that bottle at a duty-free shop is connected to Vancouver's position as a crossroads for travellers who often come to the city to vacation and do nothing else but eat and drink. Not all that long ago, that bottle would have been in the destination city of San Francisco, New York or London. Yet today, Vancouver's position at the gateway to the Pacific Rim makes it as likely a candidate as any to share in the growing amount of money spent by the globe-trotting food and wine tourist.

Vancouver's international reputation for its food and wine culture, almost all based on the quality of our local produce, restaurants and wine, is a big part of the equation. It's what attracts tourists and it's what sells $34,000 bottles of cognac and more often than not several-hundred dollar bottles of wine and the food that goes along with it. Lest anyone need reminding, more than half of that money ends up in government coffers thanks to some hefty taxes so the sale of expensive wine is important on many levels.

Why mention this today?

Government liquor stores are going to begin rationalizing the way they display products, giving more facings to the top selling brands and less to the labels that generate lower sales traffic. Translation: more Yellow Tail Shiraz and Fuzion Malbec on the shelves and fewer handcrafted estate wines.

I have no problem with cheap brands; it's just that they bring nothing to the party (pun intended). Brand Australia is suffering from lack of interest thanks to a barrage of cheap wine labels that have gutted any lures to the section. Brand California couldn't be any less interesting based on the labels sold here, and now we can expect Chile and Argentina to look the same.

What's so depressing about the "Walmart-ing" of BC Liquor Stores is that it will come without any of the famous price rollbacks Walmart is famous for. In other words, you still get to pay more for less -- and you can now add less choice to the mix.

In LCBO stores, the mega Ontario liquor monopoly is well ahead of us. All its best wines are confined to one or two facings at floor level. I'm not sure what is more depressing, the loss of labels that bring people into the stores or the mental picture of the monopoly asking its customers to bend over to reach the best bottles.

Before they permanently disappear from sight, I scoured my notes for some of the finest bargains I've tasted this year. Get them while you can because the future of cheap wine that comes from somewhere and is made by somebody with a soul is in jeopardy.

Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2009 has impressed for several vintages now for the price. Always consistently fresh, this dry, grassy nettle-scented is white flecked with bits of citrus, green apple and lemons. Made for the patio and summer sipping, it is similarly at home with oysters.

If you value consistency, the Cono Sur Viognier 2009 should be high on your list. A replica of the '08, it is fresh and clean with nectarine, honey, grapefruit, ginger, orange aromas and flavours. Light, refreshing New World style with myriad food possibilities. Crazy value.

It difficult to imagine the Aveleda Casal Garcia Vinho Verde N/V disappearing from any store mix, but despite its classic roots and floral, lemon, slate, mineral and green apple aromas, its style is under-appreciated. Fresh, crisp and slightly sweet on entry with a characteristic light spritz in the mouth, vinho verde is a defender of the different and unusual. Love the nectarine, lime, slate and quince flavours. A simple, fresh, delicious sipper for summer and seafood.

Farnese has always found a way of getting fairly decent juice into a bottle at a very fair price as is the case with the Farnese Sangiovese Daunia 2008 from Abruzzi. The warmer climes add a little heft to the sangiovese grown here, offering bits of roasted earth, a touch of plums and hint of spice. It is as good as it gets for $8.

The Man Vintners Shiraz 2007 from South Africa comes with a spicy, meaty, smoky, menthol, licorice nose with blueberry, blackberry jam, coffee, smoky, savoury, meaty, licorice, vanilla cream flavours. Much more Oz-like in ripeness and styling and all with solid fruit. Excellent value here.

Referred to as the "end of the earth," Southern Most Red 2009 hails from Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina, and is made by Bodega Del Fin de Mundo. The palate is warm and sweet with plenty of cedar-y black fruit and pepper and a soft, smoky, chocolate finish. Your basic hamburger red at a great price.

Cono Sur Viognier 2009, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price: $11

UPC: 7804320405407

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Light, refreshing New World style with myriad food possibilities. Crazy value.

Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Southeastern Australia

Price: $12

UPC: 012354081826

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Made for the patio and summer sipping, it is similarly at home with oysters.

Aveleda Casal Garcia Vinho Verde N/V, Vinhos Verde, Northern Portugal

Price: $11.50

UPC: 5601096210309

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Simple, fresh, easy sipper for summer and seafood.

Farnese Sangiovese Daunia 2008, Moro River Valley, Abruzzo, Italy

Price: $8

UPC: 00653149111269

Score: 85/100

Remarks: As good as it gets for $9.

Man Vintners Shiraz 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price: $12

UPC: 06009669350444

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Much more Oz in ripeness and styling, with solid fruit offering good value in the category.

Southern Most Red 2009, San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina

Price: $12

UPC: 007798099598265

Score: 86/100