Waiting for Summer

It's the long weekend already. I guess that's what happens when it rains for weeks. Time slips away as elections come and go, the roof on BC Place grows larger every day and, meanwhile, we all stand around waiting for enough warmth to plant our tomatoes that likely won't ripen this year if they do not go in the ground this holiday weekend.

The wine year progresses too. Canadian wine growers must be ready to pull their hair out. A long cool spring in Ontario and British Columbia points to a summer that will require extreme viticulture. If you don't reduce your crop to a near uneconomic level you won't be harvesting any ripe red grapes come late October or even November.

The good news is we know a lot more today about the effects of cool weather than we did even a decade ago. With the help of computer models and sophisticated farming techniques, it is possible to at least aid Mother Nature. Still warmth and sunshine can never be replaced, and the sooner it arrives the more likely Canadian wine producers and local tomato aficionados will begin to relax.

On a somewhat unrelated note, although one could argue weeks of rain could be responsible for strange acts, many of you will know that radio celebrity Terry David Mulligan drove across the British Columbia / Alberta border last week with a case of B.C. wine hoping to get arrested for breaking the law but met no resistance from the RCMP.

Wine producers and consumers across the nation have been lobbying to get provincial governments to permit the free movement of wine between provincial borders without any progress for years. I suspect asking provincial governments, addicted to liquor tax revenue, to get involved in a federal constitutional issue will continue to reap similar inertia at all levels of government.

When I first appeared on these pages nearly two decades ago, I was sure Canadian liquor monopolies would fall before the Berlin Wall and the Soviet Union; boy was I wrong. I suspect very little will change because the people in charge of alcohol and licensing hold all the cards. Small Canadian winery owners do not have the resources, and let's be frank, the money to compete with the large multinational wine companies.

I'm told it now costs as much as $200,000 to fund a new listing in Ontario and Quebec given the support required in monopoly magazines and instore displays. Given the magnitude of that income and the rest of the taxes collected it seems unlikely the government would allow a handful of small Canadian wineries to circumvent the rules and sell direct to its customers. That could only give the wrong message to international wineries who must play, or should we say pay by the rules.

But why ruin another long weekend? Here are some interesting wines to contemplate while you are estimating the future harvest dates of your tomatoes.

I'm not sure who is behind the big moscato push in the U.S. and, according to some, it's heading for Canada. But given the somewhat obscure nature of the grape, I'm guessing the big attraction here is sugar. Don't get me wrong the McWilliams Hanwood Estate Moscato N/V is not sickly sweet, it is off-dry, delicate, aromatic, light, breezy and good value. All you need is a hot day and an even warmer patio. Pour this one by the tumbler, and if you must have food make sure it is spicy.

Back to southern France where plenty has been written about the terrific 2009 vintage. So why not take a chance on the Saint Saturnin Le Clocher 2009 -a $15 red blend made from Syrah, Grenache and carignan. Dry and fresh with earthy and fruit flavours, expect mostly soft textures and a pinch of tannin in the finish. Fire up the barbecue, grill some beef and serve this red all summer long.

Château de Cabriac 2008 has a little less influence from the sea making its Syrah, mourvèdre, Grenache and carignan a little riper on the nose and the palate. The style is smooth and rich with black raspberry, black cherry and smoky licorice notes. An impressive red wine for the price that is ready to drink with barbecue favourites especially grilled sausages.

Bonarda always has plenty of colour and the Argento Reserva Bonarda 2010 is no exception. In this case, it comes with a fresh, floral raspberry scent from fruit grown at 600 to 700 metres above sea level at Rivadavia, Mendoza. The flavour is similar with a savoury note and jammy texture. The finish shows a touch of vanilla from its aging in American oak.

Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue Cuvee Bronzinelle 2007 continues to improve, getting brighter and more floral with better acidity and lift on the palate. The attack is rich and soft with fine black cherry, tobacco, cedar, licorice and smoky meaty flavours. A classic stew wine that could easily work with the barbecue. All meats work here. The blend is almost half Syrah mixed with mourvèdre, Grenache noir and carignan.

Pirramimma has been run by the Johnston family for more than a century, and the latest Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2006 is one of the best. Pirramimma, or the moon and the stars in Aborigine-speak is home to Oz's first 100-per-cent petit verdot. Always ripe and hedonistic, the acid is in check and the fruit and finish are voluptuous without the knockout alcohol. I assume the alcohol has been dialed back but so what? The result is fine with us. Rich dense, dark, glossy black fruit is the story with an earthy underbelly that keeps it all in balance. Lamb chops anyone?

Price: $15

UPC: 85000019030

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh, light, breezy and off-dry. Good value.

Saint Saturnin Le Clocher 2009, Languedoc, France

Price: $15

UPC: 003352260031506

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fire up the barbecue, grill some beef, and serve this red all summer long.

Château de Cabriac 2008, Corbières, Languedoc, France

Price: $14

UPC: 33488822101152

Score: 87/100

Remarks: An impressive red wine for the price that is ready to drink.

Argento Reserva Bonarda 2010, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $15

UPC: 007794450088307

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Floral raspberry fruit with a savoury, jammy texture.

Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue Cuvee Bronzinelle 2007, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

Price: $22

UPC: 03455840613021

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A classic stew wine that works just as well with barbecue meat.

Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2006, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

Price: $29

UPC: 9315785008105

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Rich dense, dark, glossy black fruit is the story with an earthy underbelly.