VQA - Is It the Sign of the Times?

As we reported Friday, the B.C. Liquor Distribution Branch (BCLDB) has completed its investigation into the murky labelling issue and, after consulting with its customers, will launch new signage in all stores beginning Monday to clarify the provenance of CiC wines.

"Bottled in British Columbia from international and domestic wine" is the new verbiage that will appear on store signs for wine in glass. Its larger, bag-in-the-box or wine casks brethren will be sold under the heading "Wine casks packaged in B.C. from international and domestic wine."

There will be shelf talkers for a month or so explaining the signage changes. The words on the talkers are: "Wines in this section have been bottled (or packaged) in British Columbia from international and domestic wine. These products are identified on the package as 'Cellared in Canada.' "

A far more interesting twist is additional information that will be displayed in the VQA section of BCLDB stores. For the unaware, a large slice of 100-per-cent B.C. grown and produced wine is sold under the Vintners Quality Alliance or VQA symbol. The problem, according to BCLDB officials who polled their customers, is many shoppers had no idea VQA meant the wine was 100-per-cent B.C.-grown and produced.

It's been two decades since VQA was rolled out and I'm guessing both B.C. and Ontario producers would be shocked to learn the VQA brand may not be as recognizable as they think.

In any event, the VQA section will get an upgrade of sorts with signage that states: "BC VQA 100 per cent British Columbia wine.

I should mention that both the Italians and Napa Valley producers were in town last week. The Italians are as charming as ever, speak very little of the recession, and insist sales are strong and prices are all the Euro's fault.

Contrast that with the large number of Napa Valley winery owner and winemaker sightings in town. Napa is suffering big- time. With a limited number of wine styles and super-high prices, they are stuck between a rock and a hard place. Normally the latter is good for vines, but in terms of wines sales, it is a no-go.

The good news is the ridiculously high Napa pricing is getting an overhaul as a direct result of several winery principals getting back out on the road and getting in touch with the Vancouver market.

Many were shocked by the retail price, not to mention the restaurant wine list price of their wines. Few had any idea how large the markup tax is or how it works and how a wine that sells for $35 in San Francisco can end up selling in Vancouver for $60. I'm told we can expect some price relief soon. Amen to that; we can't wait. In the meantime, today our vino six-pack begins in France.

La Difference Viognier-Muscat 2008 has a floral, spicy, orange, ginger, melon, lemon nose and, as you might expect, a lively and juicy palate. Look for green apple, floral, orange, honey, mineral, nectarine flavours and plenty of finesse. Try now with pan-Asian dishes. Sold in private wine stores only.

Similarly aromatic and sensational on the nose is the Tapiz Torrontés 2008. We love the mix of Chinese five-spice with juicy, ripe, peachy, pear fruit with green apple skin flecks throughout. Balanced, lively delicious white wine you can serve with roast chicken or sushi, or solo before dinner. Sold in private wine stores only.

From California, the Round Hill Chardonnay 2008 offers a soft, easy palate with spicy lees, clove, melon, baked peach, honey, vanilla flavours. Regular straight-up California chardonnay. Sold in private wine stores only.

Round, fresh, juicy but slightly sweet describes the Jean Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Mendoza. Look for cassis jam, blackberry, cedar, licorice flavours, all in an easy-drinking style for current consumption. Steak, anyone?

Then there's the Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2007. Look for Adelaide fruit with blueberry jam, black cherry, spicy, licorice notes and rich smooth palate. More black olive, blueberry, black cherry flavours flecked with herbal, garrigue, vanilla and licorice mark the finish. It has a fine fruit core. Grilled lamb works well here.

To end the column, there's Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004. Ripe, round, supple and elegant, the balance of acidity and sugar here is sheer luxury. Black fruits and chocolate with spice and spirit. A few roasted nuts and a book are the match here.

Price: $16, private wine stores

UPC: 5027857002020

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Good finesse and texture for current drinking.

TAPIZ TORRONTES 2008, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $17, private wine stores

UPC: 7798116200133

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Dry, aromatic and sensational.

ROUND HILL CHARDONNAY 2008, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES

Price: $16, private wine stores

UPC: 087712001235

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Melon, baked peach, honey, vanilla flavours.

JEAN BOUSQUET CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $16

UPC: 00879716000037

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Easy-drinking style for current consumption.

THOMAS HYLAND SHIRAZ 2007, ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Price: $20

UPC: 012354071988

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fine fruit core and ripe, warm finish.

Quinta do Crasto

LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT 2004, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL

Price: $27

UPC: 05604123001521

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Supple, elegant style with good acidity and sugar balance.