Vive La France

kids are immersing themselves in the French language with renewed fervour and it appears their parents are doing the same with French wine.

Sales during the first three months of 2006 are reportedly up 9, 10 and 28 per cent respectively and, while it's from a small base, any upward trend has to be considered a major accomplishment for French producers.

Clearly the massive French presence at the Playhouse Wine Festival (France was the designated theme country in 2006) has made an immediate impact on B.C. consumers. If French producers need any further translation, it means this: If you work the British Columbia market and tell us what you are doing, you will probably be rewarded.

Not surprisingly, Sopexa Canada, a private marketing company that represents several French regions across the country, is bullish on France too. B.C. representative Mireille Sauve says: "Our research has shown that British Columbia is the most sophisticated wine market in Canada, so we are all very excited by the steady climb in sales."

Of course, in the end what really matters is whether French wines can compete on a day-to-day basis, providing quality and value. It's a battle they have been losing since the mid-1980s, but it would appear, at least of late, that the tide is turning.

New World producers are getting sloppy at the low end of the market, relying on critters and packaging to sell their wine and eschewing the quality-for-price dictum that was so crucial to their ability to carve away market share from the Old World.

Ironically, New World producers are doing what the Europeans did in the late '80s, namely leaving the door open a crack. Spain, Portugal, Italy and now France are taking advantage of the opportunity with better-made, fresh, crisp, dry wines that, at this juncture of the North American palate development, are probably much welcomed. It should be a very interesting fall in Vancouver as each country fights for your attention.

Today we look at six French wines you should be sure to check out soon.

We love the new Bouchard Aine & Fils Chardonnay 2005 from the Pays d'Oc. It has a ripe apple, mineral, citrus skin nose with a hit of lees and a slightly floral nose. The style is elegant, beyond the price, with green apple, smoky, mineral, light lees flavouring, all with a touch of honey and a crisp finish. A solid food wine that exhibits chardonnay character. Good value.

Lulu B Syrah 2004, also from the Languedoc, has a big meaty, ripe, peppery, syrah nose. It is very consumer-friendly with gobs of dense, soft, dark, plum-flavoured fruit. Ripe, round and a bit simple, but doubtless this will be fun to sip around the barbecue. Yellowtail en francais.

Roc de Mazere Buzet Merlot 2004 comes from the sud-ouest. It is typically soft and round on entry with sweet plummy, grapey, black-cherry fruit. Warm, smooth and aromatic, it should be well-suited to traditional fall fare such as duck or mushrooms and roasted meats. The finish is long and soft.

Alsace remains on the fringe in this market, mostly due to a lack of exposure. You can look for the Paul Zinck Riesling 2004 to sip on. Alsace riesling is always much drier in style than anything from across the border in Germany. The Zinck is particularly clean and dry with a floral, dried-fruit nose with oily citrus rind and pineapple on the palate. Four square and dry in the finish. Pair with grilled fish.

Mont Tauch is well known as the best co-op in Fitou. Lively, energetic and modern are but a few descriptors used to characterize this producer with a soul. Mont Tauch Les Douzes Fitou 2004 is a blend of low-yielding, old-vine carignan, grenache and syrah made by a dozen of the region's best growers. Look for an intense red wine that mixes leather, pepper and plummy, almost overripe fruit. Rich and rustic, I enjoyed it with a T-bone steak, but any strong meat dish will do.

Syrah, grenache, carignan and mourvedre are the mix in the Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Cuvee Bronzinelles 2004 from Coteaux du Languedoc. The '04 is a fine improvement over the '03 with its peppery, meaty, garrigue nose flecked with black cherry, smoky, earthy and licorice root. The entry is fresh with soft and supple, ripe tannins. Lots of earthy, licorice, gamey, garrigue and peppery, spicy, floral, cherry flavours. Good concentration and balance, if a bit chunky. This is French country wine at its best.

BOUCHARD AINE & FILS CHARDONNAY 2005, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, LANGUEDOC
Price: $11.99
UPC: 3340180002645
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Solid food wine that exhibits chardonnay character. Good value.

LULU B SYRAH 2004, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, LANGUEDOC
Price: $15.90
UPC: 604174001711
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Yellowtail en francais.

ROC DE MAZERE BUZET MERLOT/CABERNET FRANC/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004,
SUD-OUEST
Price: $16.99
UPC: 3231230206697
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Smooth aromatic red, well-suited to
traditional fall fare.

PAUL ZINCK RIESLING 2004, ALSACE
Price: $19.45
UPC: 3522800050049
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Clean and fresh with a touch of oily, citrus rind and pineapple.

MONT TAUCH LES DOUZES FITOU 2004,
LANGUEDOC
Price: $19.99
UPC: 3288841029016
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Intense red wine that mixes leather,
pepper and plummy ripe fruit.

CHATEAU SAINT MARTIN DE LA GARRIGUE CUVEE BRONZINELLES 2004, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC
Price: $23.99
UPC: 3455840613021
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Licorice, gamey, garrigue and peppery, spicy, floral, cherry flavours.