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When Yalumba winemaker Jane Ferrari's was asked to fill in for boss Michael Hill Smith and conduct a winemaker's dinner in Vancouver last year she didn't hesitate to accept the offer.
Ferrari later learned the dinner would be advertised as "The Viognier Monologues," a cheeky word play on the theatrical play The Vagina Monologues, and the dinner theme the viognier grape, and that's when the panic set in. She had yet to see the play and the more she researched the play the less comfortable she became with her speaking engagement.
The night of the event Ferrari quickly captured her audience when she pointed out to the attendees that the many euphemisms used to describe that part of the female anatomy that is the hub of The Vagina Monologues were nothing compared to the many and varied pronunciations of viognier she had encountered when meeting wine consumers at public tastings.
If the growth of viognier sales has been stunted by anything it may be a pronunciation problem. In my experience if consumers cannot confidently pronounce the name of a wine the chances of it being purchased in any quantity is greatly diminished.
The correct pronunciation of viognier is VEE-own-YAY but as Ferrari points out the staff at Yalumba have heard just about every pronunciation possible including: VEE-own-YEAR, VEE-og-NEAR, VIE-on-JEER, VIG-knee-OR and many more.
Still the quirky grape has managed to spread around the world in the last decade from its Northern Rhone base to Australia, California, Chile and even British Columbia's Okanagan Valley.
It's not an easy grape to grow. Mildew is a problem; yields are less than ample and seldom predictable. But when it's right, viognier's golden colour and the aroma of fruit and flowers can be shockingly good.
While its colour and nose suggest a sweet tasting wine, viognier is invariably dry. It is best known for its plethora of flavours that span the gamut from mineral/apricot, white peach, and candied orange peel to kiwi, apricot, lime, honeysuckle, pineapple, honey and smoky vanilla.
Today's picks span several styles and prices; all are worth tasting. The Moillard Viognier Huges le Juste 2001 hails from the Languedoc in the South of France. It has the typical spicy, floral, meaty nose with honey and white peach aromas. Its toasted butter and citrus/honey/peach flavours are simple, fruity and likeable. Good value for an introductory European viognier. On the palate it is soft, with a slightly oily texture.
The Smoking Loon Viognier 2002 mentioned earlier this summer sold out so fast many missed it but its back. Smoking Loon is pure fun from its name and label to its enticing open honey, mineral, orange, cream and spicy mango nose and flavours. It's round and fresh with fine elegance and acidity. Look for ripe mango, honey/orange fruit mixes with baked quince and butter flavours in the finish.
My personal favourite (now bottled with a screwcap) is the Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2003 from Australia. One can see why Jane Ferrari is so committed to viognier. This is simply a gorgeous wine. Look for a highly expressive nose of citrus apricot, honeysuckle and orange spice. Fresh and mouth filling its rich tropical fruit flavours finish long. Spicy barbecued chicken is the perfect match for this great value white.
The Beringer Viognier Appellation Collection 2003 is all Napa Valley. The nose is a mix of floral, quince, honey and citrus rind aromas with some green apple and peach. The style is rich and ripe but it remains dry with honey, mineral, spicy, green apple skin with some orange and floral notes on the finish. Grilled scallops or sea bass would be a fine match.
My final two pick are viognier blends. The Tamaya Viognier - Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc represents outstanding value form the emerging Limari Valley in Chile. Look for an attractive open honey, floral nose with streaks of buttery, nectarine from its viognier base. The textures are dry round and crisp on the palate with juicy pear, grassy/mineral, honey, citrus flavours and just a touch of butter. A well-balanced, dry style white suited to any seafood. Sold in private wine shops only.
The Talomas Chardonnay & Viognier is an 83/17 blend of chardonnay/viognier that hits all the right buttons. Its low yields fruit sources include 64 per cent Monterey, 22 per cent Santa Maria Valley and 14 per cent Sonoma County. Look for a very attractive gardenia, honey, peach, mineral, buttery melon nose. It's very fresh on the palate with juicy red apple, buttery vanilla, peach, floral, citrus, honey flavours. Delicious.
Weekend Wine Picks - Viognier
Wine
Price $11.75
UPC 3180421087198
Score 86/100
Remarks Good value introductory-style European viognier.
Wine Smoking Loon Viognier 2002,
Price $17.75
UPC 017444000749
Score 88/100
Remarks Ripe mango, honey/orange fruit mixes with baked quince and butter flavours.
Wine Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2003,
Price $17.99
UPC 9311789475974
Score 89/100
Remarks This is the best value viognier in the market.
Wine Beringer Viognier Appellation Collection 2003,
Price $24.95 **
UPC 089819011506
Score 87/100
Remarks Try scallops or bass.
Wine Tamaya Viognier - Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc 2003,
Price $13.50*
UPC 7808731000008
Score 87/100
Remarks A well-balanced, dry style white from emerging
Wine Talomas Chardonnay & Viognier 2002,
Price $21.99
UPC 086003002203
Score 90/100
Remarks Very attractive intense gardenia, honey/peach, mineral and buttery melon nose.
* Private Wine Store: Dundarave,
** All Mark Anthony Wine Mart stores
