Vintage Port 2007 - For Collectors Only

Just such a vintage is 2007 and it has finally arrived in BC Liquor stores. According to producers the secret to success in 2007 was cooler than normal temperatures during the final growing period. This led to ideal maturations, and in the case of the Douro's flagship touriga nacional grape, an excellent sugar/acid balance and perfect phenolic ripeness.

Having tasted my way through two separate vertical tastings of vintage port spanning a century of time a couple of years ago I have little doubt the 2007 vintage ports will age. It's hard to explain how satisfying it can be to taste a wine from 1927 or 1934 or even 1994 but it is well worth the effort to cellar these great vintages.

Port's ability to go the distance starts in the steeply, terraced vineyards of the upper Douro Valley. The vines themselves grow out of near solid, stone soils in a climate frozen much of the winter and scorched all summer. Strange sounding grape names such as tinta cão, tinta barroca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca have survived from an ancient list of hundreds of varieties to form the basis of the modern-day, port blend.

Vintage port is born amid a short violent fermentation that can last as little as 30 hours. The still fermenting must, with an alcohol content of six to seven degrees, is "run off" into large wooden casks. At this point, the winemaker blends one part neutral grape brandy for every four parts of the partially fermented must. What is left is port: strong, sweet, fortified and designed to age for decades in bottle.

To prepare for its upcoming deep sleep inside the bottle, vintage port is removed from the barrel at the earliest possible moment on or about the age of two. After that the longer and cooler its sleep, in a still, dark cellar, the better the possibility it will keep for decades and more.

Today we explore the 'declared' 2007 vintage port only just released in British Columbia. It's considered a glorious vintage, one I would term a "foundation" year, as in it would provide an ideal base for a port collection and a suitable cornerstone in any cellar. For you veteran port collectors it will be the icing on the cake.

We love the liquorice, chocolate, spicy, orange peel, and fig and black cherry aromas of the Smith Woodhouse 2007. Round, rich, moderately sweet and warm with supple tannins and fine concentration it has both finesse and richness but you can enjoy now. A fine effort and excellent value too.

The Fonseca 2007 is four-square on the palate with round tannins and big spicy, chocolate, liquorice, black cherry, black tea, floral flavours. There is excellent depth, fruit, structure and acidity in what is a bold Fonseca that will age well and maintain its fruit for decades. A dense succulent port for the ages.

The Dow's 2007 will be a long distance runner that will reward years of patience. Love the spicy, peppery, licorice, tea, black cherry, floral aromas. The style is dry and warm with fine tannins and firm acidity and structure mix into a chocolate, spicy, licorice, black cherry jam and dried fig flavours. Long with fine concentration and plenty of finesse. Drink 2020 and beyond.

Warre's 2007 is the first to be made entirely from estate owned fruit. Quinta do Retiro in the Rio Torto has been in the mix for more than 100 years but was purchased in 2006. Similarly Quinta da Telhada in the Douro Superior was added in 2006 to join the estate centrepiece Cavadinha. The result is perhaps the best Warre in years. Rich, full and warm with fine acidity and sweetness and structured but smooth tannins. It's giant of wine with finesse and intense liquorice, chocolate, peppery, floral, blackberry and plum flavours and a supple, juicy, high acid finish. A fist in a velvet glove. One of the finest Warre's in my tasting memory.

The Graham's 2007 mixes, liquorice, black cherry jam, peppery, spicy and violet aromas in a full, slightly tannic palate rich in acidity and sweetness. More chocolate, cherry, liquorice, tea, fig and resin flavours mark the palate. Not the same intensity as Taylor, Croft or Fonseca but it should age gracefully. Full of fruit and finesse it will be among the best Graham ports of the century.

The Taylor Fladgate 2007 is one to lay down for your grandchildren. This is rich, inky port with huge concentration. There is plenty of tannin in a full, fresh and juicy palate packed with black cherry, blackberry, liquorice, plum and chocolate flavours. The finish is long, elegant and silky with great acidity and freshness. Less is more here and all will be revealed in decades down the road. Delicious now but will live for 50 years easily.

Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2007, Rio Torto, Cima Corga, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $38 375mL

UPC       05010867502512

Score     91/100

Remarks              Chocolate, liquorice, orange, black cherries. Excellent value.

Fonseca Vintage Port 2007, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $131; $69 (375mL)

UPC       5013521100543

Score     93/100

Remarks              A dense succulent port for the ages.

Dow's Vintage Port 2007, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $95

UPC       5010867205246

Score     93/100

Remarks              A long distance runner that will reward patience. Drink 2020 and beyond.

Warre's Vintage Port 2007, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $96

UPC       05010867205246

Score     93/100

Remarks              One of the finest years from the estate.

Graham's Vintage Port 2007, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $106; $52 375mL

UPC       05010867403000

Score     93/100

Remarks              One of the best of the century; full of fruit and finesse.

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2007, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $143.00

UPC       05013626113141

Score     96/100

Remarks              One to lay down for your grandchildren.