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In today's super competitive wine world, it is never easy to capture the imagination of the wine drinking public.
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I've been more than impressed with the Valdivieso wines for the last five years and while they more meet the value-for-money dictum the winery boast several labels that merit serious review by wine critics worldwide.
Caballo Loco, an unusual blend of red wine, is turning heads most everywhere it is tasted and at a recent blind tasting in
Caballo Loco or "Crazy Horse" is named after the winery's managing director Jorge Cordech, who is sometimes known to drive like a crazy horse. In fact, it's a superb, non-vintage red wine that not only contains multiple varieties but blends varying amounts of multiple vintages too.
When approved each edition (rather than vintage) of Caballo Loco is numbered consecutively. The latest is No. 4 but as winemaker Philippe Debrus points out "there is no pressure to make the wine every year and it will only be made in years when the vintage is considered superior.
Caballo Loco No. 4 is made of 50 percent cabernet sauvignon and a mix of malbec, cabernet franc, merlot and pinot noir. The final selection made by Debrus features the best barrels from each of the individual lots. The twist, in solera-like fashion, is half of Caballo Loco No. 4 is made up of Caballo Loco No. 3 and half of No. 3 is made from No. 2 and so on.
Is it the best red wine in
There is more to the Valdivieso story, which dates back to 1879, when it was first a producer of sparkling wine. Even today, the winery remains the largest single producer of sparkling wine in
Yet it's the most recent history of Valdivieso that attracts modern-day wine drinkers and while sparkling wine still plays a large role at Valdivieso its international accolades stem from the quality of its still wines coming out of Lontué.
Valdivieso has surprised many at Vinexpo by taking 10 medals at the
The key to Valdivieso's early success was the help it sought from American wine guru Paul Hobbs who consulted at Valdivieso until 1997. In a broad sense, the wines are richer and riper than many of its Chilean counterparts (with a distinct lack of greenness in most wines) and while you could argue they are New World in style, there is enough balance, elegance and structure in the Valdivieso style to appeal to both Euro and New World palates.
The source of all this excellence is Lontué; a cool growing region located three hours south of
Over the years Valdivieso has made a number of delicious chardonnays but the company's strength is red wine. Surprisingly one of its biggest strengths is pinot noir, making Valdivieso a
If the company has one drawback, it's could be a confusing array of labels which might be bettered position as three tiers. At the moment it is producing a series of labels that include a base varietal series, a barrel selection series, a reserve group, a single-vineyard reserve group, a super premium "V" series and of course Caballo Loco.
SPARKLING WINE
86 Viña Valdivieso N/V Nature
A 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir the "Nature" opens with clean, fresh, nutty green apple aromas mixed with citrus rind. Soft, creamy, fruit driven style with apple, almond and mineral flavours and a clean, tart citrus finish. The perfect wine for simply prepared shellfish. (WA) BC $00.00; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
89 Viña Valdivieso NV Brut
Almost exclusively chardonnay and pinot noir in equal parts, Valdivieso Brut also contains 5 per cent riesling. Light straw color. Nutty, green apple toasted almonds and apple/pear fruit that carry through onto the palate. The finish is rich and round in the mouth. Slightly less dry than you would think adding extra appeal for the occasional sparkling wine drinker. BCsp $11.95
88 Viña Valdivieso NV, Grand Brut
Light yellow color, fine, persistent, mousse. The nose is a mix of light, herbal scents, toasted almonds and apple/pear fruit that carries through onto the palate. The finish is crisp and well balanced.
87 Viña Valdivieso 1996 Brut Reserve
Look for slightly richer aromas of baked apple and nuts in this 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. The flavours are baked apple with some nutty, toasty elements. The texture is round. The finish is fresh and fruity with about as much jump as you can expect for the money. Good value. (WA) BC $00.00; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
86 Viña Valdivieso NV, Rose
A 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir whose pinkish colour is the result of 6 to 8 hours of skin contact. Look for aromas and flavours of cherries, almonds, toast and herbs. Long, smooth cherry citrus finish. A soft, fruity sparkler that is very easy to drink. (WA) BC $13.95; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
90 Viña Valdivieso NV Moscato Sparkling Wine
An interesting blend of five varieties of moscatel and 50 per cent torontel. Big muscat style nose with spicy, floral, honeysuckle and peach aromas and flavours. Good harmony among the fruit, sugar and acid with a crisp finish. Perfect accompaniment to prosciutto and melon. BC $14.95; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
85 Valdivieso Sparkling Merlot
Deep dark, cherry red colour. Fairly intense cherry fruit aromas, earth and almonds jump out of the glass but the flavours are drier with stemmy, earthy notes. A curiosity that as a category is attracting a reasonable number of consumers. Big enough to serve with duck. (WA) BC $15.95
WHITES:
SAUVIGNON BLANC
85 Valdivieso 2001 Sauvignon Blanc
Fresh grapefruit rind aromas with passion fruit characters too. Skinny refreshing citrus juice entry with a grassy passion fruit finish. Clean, fresh and cheap. Bring on the oysters. BC $12.95
85 Viña Valdivieso 1999 Sauvignon Blanc
A blend of sauvignon blanc and the Chilean version - Sauvignonasse. Look for open, grassy, herbal aromas mixed with scents of white fruits. Medium extract with more oak and mouth feel than fruit. The finish is flat and soft. Could be livelier for a sauvignon. (WA) BC $12; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
85 Viña Valdivieso 1998 Sauvignon Blanc
Lovely fresh fruit aromas of grapefruit and kiwi with a touch of grass. Fine herbal, kiwi peachy fruit that finishes soft and round. Fine improvement over last year. A slight reduction in residual sugar would make this a very serious wine. BC $12
84 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Sauvignon Blanc
Lightweight version of this varietal with aromas and flavours of grapefruit and peach. Citrus, herbal finish with some bitterness. Serve well chilled. BCspeculative $11.95; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
Viña Valdivieso 1996 Sauvignon Blanc
Opened too long, try another bottle.
(412890) BC $11.30
CHARDONNAY
87 Valdivieso 2001 Chardonnay
Central Valley, Chile
Lovely fresh fruit nose with mineral and peach highlights. Citrus mineral, green apple flavours mark the palate with a dry, lime rind finish. Solid everyday international style white that will work well with food. BC $12.99 (WA)
85 Valdivieso 2000 Chardonnay
Lovely appealing nose of melon peach mango and a little hint of butter. Less weight in the mouth and more apple mineral fruit this year than we have seen. The finish is citrus green apple and mineral. Not as easy-drinking as previous versions but will work well with seafood. BC $12.90 (WA)
86 Valdivieso 1999 Chardonnay
Buttery lees and bubble gum style fruit with some lemon/grapefruit notes in the back. Fresh peach, toasted apple taste with a crisp finish. Simple, light, straightforward bargain chardonnay made for summer sipping. (WA) BC $12.90
86 Viña Valdivieso 1998 Chardonnay
Open, ripe peach, melon honey-style aromas and flavours. The style is warm and mouth filling with ripe, peachy/pear fruit flavours in the finish. Easy drinking style. BC $12.90
89 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Chardonnay
Pale straw color. Honey peach/pear and spice aromas. In the mouth, the wine is rich and round with slightly sweet floral, citrus and honey fruit flavours but the finish is dry and clean. Very fine value wine. BCsp $12.70
Viña Valdivieso 1996 Chardonnay
Pale straw color. Dry apricot skin and apple nose on the nose and palate. The structure is soft and simple making the wine very easy to drink. A solid, straightforward, "commercial " style chardonnay.
Viña Valdivieso 1995 Chardonnay
Pale straw color. Peach, melon, citrus aromas dominate the nose and palate. The structure is light and simple making the wine very easy to drink. A solid, straightforward, "summer" style chardonnay.
86 Valdivieso 2000 Chardonnay Barrel Selection Reserve
Light candied apple and peach aromas mixed with light butter and floral notes. Quite light in the mouth with lees, mineral and dry citrus flavours. Surprisingly light and restrained for Valdivieso and frankly disappointing for a 17 reserve wine. The broad appellation is a mystery too. BC $16.95 (WA)
89 1999 Valdivieso Barrel Selection Chardonnay
Open mineral, lees, and pear nose, reminiscent of a cool
88 Carmen 2000 Chardonnay Reserve
Open inviting toasted vanilla, honey/butter/melon nose. Rich toasted lees flavours with more butter honey and lees. More citrus than usual, which we like, and good melon fruit in the finish. Fresh clean and very drinkable. Good value. BC $16.95
88 Valdivieso 1999 Chardonnay Reserve
Ripe peachy melon fruit with buttered popcorn aromas in the background. The mid-palate is elegant and mostly restrained with citrus butter flavours and a dry high acid finish and a wisp of alcohol. More notes. BC $20.00 (WA)
90 Valdivieso 1998 Reserve Chardonnay
Another generous nose of honey, floral, lees and wild yeast notes. Inviting and quite complex. We like the mix of
89 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Reserve Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay
The Valdivieso Reserve is 100 per cent barrel fermented in 40 percent new French oak. The fruit is whole-cluster pressed and harvested by night. Look for toasty, pear, banana, apple, lees and peach aromas. Fine mid-palate structure with an elegant long finish that's totally in balance. The price is fair. BC $20
87 Viña Valdivieso 1996 Reserve Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay
Medium straw color. Very pleasant up-front honey and toasted oak on the nose. Lighter than you might expect on the palate with peach, butter and vanilla highlights. Fresh, light and well-balanced. BCspeculative $19.95; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
Viña Valdivieso 1994 Reserve Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay
Light green/yellow color. Big up-front toasted oak on the nose that dissolves into similar oaky, toasted notes on the palate. Generous, rich, buttery style with strong hints of peach and vanilla. Should be particularly attractive to those who prefer the rich soft styling of oak.
REDS:
CARIGNAN
83 Valdivieso 1999 Carignan
Dry earthy, nose and similar flavours on the palate. Lots of freshness but too much acidity on the mid-palate. It makes the mouth water but ultimately the finish is dry and rustic. Ordinary red with a tart finish. BC $00.00 (AG)
CARMENERE
86 Valdivieso 2000 Carménère Barrel Selection Reserve
Central Valley, Chile
Open mint leather, vanilla earthy aromas. Soft and round on entry with some weight but fairly tart in the finish. A skinny, soft red with herbaceous green pepper overtones that is ready-to-drink now. Not particularly great value. BC $16.99 (WA)
84 Valdivieso 2000 Carmenère
Big minty resiny compost carmenère nose with a touch of orange rind in the finish. Soft round and simple entry with no shortage of minty peppery fruit and herbal menthol flavouring. Typical carménère. BC $13.95 (WA)
PINOT NOIR
85 Viña Valdivieso 1998 Pinot Noir
Good color. Black cherry, gamy, herbal fruit aromas and flavours. Rounder, softer style with a spicy/rootsy, stemmy finish. Fine straight-ahead pinot at a fair price. BC $14
86 Valdivieso 2000 Pinot Noir Barrel Selection Reserve
Crushed raspberry black cherry fruit mixed with spice and earth. Similar flavours with warn thin dry finish. This is good pinot with decent intensity for the price but it is young and needs some time to settle down. BC $16.95
89 Valdivieso 1999 Barrel Selection Reserve Pinot Noir
The wine is aged for six months in old barrels with little or no intervention. Very tasty. Huge ripe black cherry and mint with a smoky, licorice background. Ripe fruit from a fine concentrated vintage. Very rich on the palate with ripe strawberry and cherry jam, some earth and spice too. Very varietal, elegant and supple. Valdivieso seems to have its finger on the pulse of pinot noir in
87 Valdivieso 1999 Pinot Noir Reserve
Tight nose, with more earth and barnyard components with only hints of plum fruit and smoke. Soft fruit flavours that surprisingly lack the concentration you might expect from the superior '99 vintage. With the development of the Barrel Selection and the 'V' Pinot Noir perhaps there isn't enough fruit to go around. BC $20.00
89 Viña Valdivieso 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir
Mostly Lontué La Primavera fruit. Again lots of smoky, toasted-oak, strawberry jam and barnyard aromas with underlying fruit flavours of cherries and plums. Long liquorice, earthy finish. Similar styling to the 1997 but with more concentration and depth. Still young and should improve over the next year in bottle. BC$20
89 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Reserve Pinot Noir
Smoky, toasted-oak nose with underlying fruit flavours of cherries and plum jam. Similar styling to the 1997 with good mid-weight pinot noir flavours and textures. Showing better than ever and proving it can age gracefully. (Last tasted 10/01) BC$19.95
90 Viña Valdivieso 1996 Reserve Pinot Noir
Medium ruby color. Smoky, toasted-oak, plum and cherry nose. Fine concentration of flavours of cherries, plum jam and orange spice. Lovely deft touch, good mid-weight pinot noir. Again proving to be one of the country's best pinot noirs. Terrific value too. BCsp $19.95
86 Viña Valdivieso 1995 Reserve Pinot Noir
Deep purple color, heavy, smoky toasted-oak nose. Fine concentration of flavours including plum/mint, earth and vanilla. Still some tannin in the finish, but the weight and structure are Pinot Noir. Certainly one of the best from
Viña Valdivieso 1994 Reserve Pinot Noir
The Valdivieso Pinot Noir is only one of a handful of Pinot Noir made in
90 Viña Valdivieso 1998 "V" Pinot Noir
"V" is new territory for Valdivieso as they pursue the ultimate in Chilean pinot noir. From the best lots off the best sites comes a big smoky (sausage) nose that comes from the Francois Frères heavy toast barrels. Rich, round and supple, has orange, spicy, smoky bacon and plum flavours with an earthy, choke cherry aftertaste. Good balance but slightly acidic in the finish. Unusual pinot, produced in a cold year. BC $54.95 (ST)
SYRAH
88 Valdivieso 2000 Syrah Barrel Selection Reserve
Smoky leafy nose with intense, cassis jam and blackberry fruit. Almost sappy. Soft earthy, pepper fruit and smoky, shoe leather. Round and easy to drink with dark coffee, character and quite a peppery finish. BC $16.95 (WA)
MALBEC
87 Valdivieso 2001 Malbec
The bright purple colour perfectly matches the lifted cassis fruit aromas. Soft and round and eminently sippable now '01 malbec has barbecue red written all over it. Dark fruit flavours that jump out of the glass. Uncomplicated and ready to drink. A supple, spicy red for the barbecue. BC $13.99 (AG)
85 Valdivieso 2000 Malbec
Open leafy cassis aromas with mushrooms and sausage - quite busy. Tastes like it smells but the textures are soft and round and it's easy to drink. Fun wine but the price is out of whack. BC $14.95 (WA)
86 Valdivieso 1999 Malbec
Winemaker Philippe Dubrus adds a bit of carignan and cabernet sauvignon to this mix of Curicó-sourced malbec grapes. Richer than the merlot but softer than the cabernet this is a fine, everyday, earthy red. The flavours of dark fruits, prunes, black cherry and black berry fruit jump out of the glass. Soft, round, supple, spicy red for the barbecue. BC $15.95
85 Viña Valdivieso 1998 Malbec
Purple inky color. Minty, vegetal, mushroom aromas with some pepper. Very malbec. Soft round supple red with minty, earthy, spicy herbal overtones. Use liberally around the barbecue. BC $18
84 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Malbec
Purple inky black hues. Minty, vegetative herbal aromas. On the palate, it's round and supple with smoky, earthy, spicy, gamy mushroom flavours. Very malbec with crisp acid in the finish. BCsp $17.95
86 Viña Valdivieso 1996 Malbec
Bright purple/cherry hues. Orange spice, minty, cassis and herbal aromas. On the palate, it's round and supple with smoky, earthy, spicy, and gamy mushroom flavours. A solid effort for Malbec. Estimated price in BC $18; Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
87 Valdivieso 2000 Malbec Barrel Selection Reserve
Lovely dried lychee, prunes and soya aromas with tobacco and earth. Very complex. Big smoky dried berry fruit and leather. Powerful red with good intensity will work well with barbecue. Good value here. BC $16.95 (WA)
87 Valdivieso 1999 Barrel Selection Malbec
Deep purple color. Herbal, minty, earthy aromas and some prune and cherry, very little influence from oak. Soft palate with peppery, woody, earthy cherry flavours with some pepper and heat in the finish. Not as showy as the reserve and slightly drier. BC $16.95
91 Valdivieso 1997 Reserve Malbec
Rich aromas and flavours of prunes, black pepper, mint, earth, vanilla and orange spice. A big wine with soft, ripe tannins that are long and attractive on the palate but will need a few years to round into shape. This is serious malbec. BC $27
90 Valdivieso 1996 Reserve Malbec
Deep cherry, purple color. Rich aromas of plum black pepper, mint, earth and orange rind. Moderately rich with round, ripe tannins. The flavours are a blend of vanilla, orange spice, mint and earth. Quite long and attractive on the palate but will need a few years to round into shape. This is serious malbec. BCsp $25.95
90 Valdivieso 1999 Malbec Single Vineyard Reserve
Central Valley, Chile
Open blackberry smoke and licorice with a dusting of earth. Much better balance across the palate with ripe fruit mushrooms and vanilla smoke. Quite impressive already and will improve definitely worth picking. Impressive and tasty with several good years ahead if it. BC $29.00 (WA)
89 Valdivieso 1998 Malbec Single Vineyard Reserve
Attractive spicy vanilla oak and cherry aromas with saddle leather and mushroom highlights. Round but a touch tight with good length and richness. Similar flavours to the nose with some tight tannins in the finish. Fine spicy clove cherry finish. BC $35.00 (WA)
89 Valdivieso 1998 "V" Malbec
Fine balance and ripe fruit but not the wine it should be for the price. Lots of vanilla, toast, very spicy coriander, earthy, plum aromas. Soft tannins and elegance with spicy, vanilla, orange rind and cherry flavours. Finish is somewhat dry and earthy with some acidity. Stylish dry malbec that will appeal to some. BC $59.95 Marfful Consultants (604) 277-5997
MERLOT
86 Valdivieso 2001 Merlot
Central Valley, Chile
Open peppery, resiny, black cherry nose with crushed leaf aromas. Young and ripe on the palate with smooth tobacco cherry cassis flavours. A touch leafy in the finish but we like this and think it will further improve in the bottle over the next six to eight months. BC $13.00 (WA)
87 Valdivieso 2000 Merlot
Minty herbal garrigue spiced nose with sour cherry highlights. Lovely merlot textures with some plush and black cherry fruit flavours. Fine quality for the price and a lovely spicy earthy finish. Should hold well over the next year or two. BC $13 (WA)
86 Valdivieso 1999 Merlot
Look for slightly cooler aromas of pepper, spice, cherry and herbs but no real green flavours. The structure is balanced with spicy, peppery, cherry/citrus peel flavours. A stylish example of merlot, which is saying something these days. Fine value too. BC $13
86 Viña Valdivieso 1997 Merlot
