VINA ERRAZURIZ

The Chadwick family, owners of Viña Errazuriz, are partners with Robert Mondavi in the production of Seña, Chile's first super-premium wine, as well as Caliterra and L'Arboleda. The winery is located at Panquehue (pronounced pan-KAY-way), near the warm eastern edges of the Aconcagua Valley, a 90-minute drive north of Chile's capital, Santiago. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the valley's star grapes and the best of them are grown at the Errazuriz home estate, Don Maximiano. Farther west and closer to the ocean is the valley's Casablanca sub-region and the Errazuriz La Escultura estate. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir thrive in its cooler climate. Much farther south, the cool Curicó Valley provides a different backdrop for merlot and sauvignon blanc grown at the winery's El Descanso estate. There, the first replanted block of merlot is now in production. The young vineyard has been thinned to one cluster per shoot and unlike older sections of El Descanso, the block is pure merlot. That means none of the vigorous carmenère (a merlot look-alike) and its aggressive flavours are mixed in with the merlot at crush, something that's a problem in many older Chilean vineyards. As a result, future vineyard management and picking decisions will be more efficient, resulting in wine with more intense fruit flavours and fewer green/weedy/dill aspects. Today, a look at several Errazuriz labels, all of which are widely available in government liquor stores. The 2000 sauvignon blanc is clearly Casablanca fruit. Cool green-apple and grapefruit aromas waft from the glass. On the palate, a cool mix of guava/passionfruit, mineral and grass flavours excite, and there's a touch of grapefruit rind in the finish. This one's clean, fresh and easy to drink -- a perfect shellfish white. The 2000 chardonnay is also Casablanca fruit, from the Escultura estate. Partial barrel fermentation adds depth without killing the ripe guava, apple, vanilla and citrus rind aromas. It's round, moderately dry, well balanced and fruity, with delicious creamy textures in the finish. Guava, spiced apple, pear and grapefruit flavours dominate. At $12.95, it's great value. The '99 Wild Ferment Chardonnay is a super white, with a rich, leesy, creamy nose, although the fruit is beginning to fade. It has honey and mineral aspects now, with a creamy vanilla lees character and some citrus. Spicy lees flavours dominate in the mouth, and the finish remains dry and crisp. It's fairly French in style. The 2000 merlot is not as plush as the '99 vintage, and shows more dill, mint and sweaty vegetable aromas before the cherry flavour kicks in. It has a lovely entry that is round and soft but definitely on the spicy, leaf-cool spectrum for merlot. The regular 2000 cabernet is also a touch weedy, with cassis and warm vegetal characters. It has a surprising richness in the mouth, given the cool nose with mostly round, supple fruit. It's good if you like the herbal/chocolate/earthy Chilean style. Grilled meats would tame its youthful edges. The '98 cabernet reserva is slightly disappointing, if only because the '97 was such a standout. It has intense cassis aromas with a touch of rubber, barnyard and earth. On the palate there are similar cassis, earth and vanilla flavours, but without a great deal of complexity. Solid -- but I'm looking forward to the '99. VINA ERRAZURIZ, ACONCAGUA, CHILE Producer: 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Valle de Casablanca Price: $11.95 Stock No.: 286385 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Grass, guava and passionfruit in a bottle. Producer: 2000 Chardonnay, Valle de Casablanca Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 284133 Score: 16/20 Comments: Fresh, lively; drink all summer. Producer: 1999 Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Valle de Casablanca Price: $22.95 Stock No.: 545392 Score: 17/20 Comments: Perfect now. Producer: 2000 Merlot Domaine Estate Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 297887 Score: 14/20 Comments: Cool, round, soft; minty/dill style. Producer: 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine Estate Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 284125 Score: 14/20 Comments: Rich, herbal, mocha earth. Producer: 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Domaine Don Maximiano Price: $19.95 Stock No.: 287805 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Cool, cassis-flavoured.