Very Vivacious Viognier

California has embraced the grape openly, as has Australia with Yalumba winery in the Barossa Valley leading the charge. Winemaker Louisa Rose says on the winery website: "Viognier is incredibly challenging and demands handling with kid gloves. It's unpredictable, difficult to grow and the yields are low. The variety always has the ability to surprise you -- one day the grapes on the vine are dull and flavourless, yet the very next day there'll be the explosion of musky apricot characters that make it so appealing."

Despite broad acclaim from wine critics, viognier has yet to win the battle with consumers, and, to be frank, it's struggling to find its place in most markets. Apparently, it is not enough to be tasty and boast attractive honeysuckle and mineral aromas.

Nor does it matter that viognier comes in almost countless flavours: mineral/apricot, white peach, candied orange peel, kiwi, apricot, lime, honeysuckle, pineapple, honey and smoky vanilla, to name but a few.

In Vancouver, viognier appears to be tailor-made for the fusion of flavours that make up our diverse dining scene. I can imagine its floral, ginger-honeyed flavours combining with a curry at Montri's Thai restaurant, or the lamb popsicles at Vij's. The prawns at Shiru-Bay Chopstick Cafe would be a fun match and, well, you get the picture -- this is one versatile grape variety.

While its colour and nose suggest a ripe (almost sweet) wine, viognier is invariably dry, making it well suited to a variety of foods. And it can also be served solo on the patio with dramatic results.

Today's viognier update is culled from the 20-odd listings available in B.C liquor stores. Let's hope the selection is expanded soon.

We begin with great news from South America -- two terrific viognier selling for less than $11.

The Santa Julia Viognier 2005 is from Mendoza, and like several of its predecessors, it remains consistently well made. Floral, spicy, buttery, mineral, honey, sausage aromas preview a ripe, crisp palate with a slight oiliness. Fine mineral, honey, butter, citrus and creamsicle flavours mark the palate. Fine intensity and balance for the price. Great value.

Not to be outdone, the Cono Sur Viognier Limited Release 2005 from the Andes in Colchagua Chile is similarly delicious. This wine goes from strength to strength and the price can only be worrisome to local producers. The nose is brimming with orange citrus notes. The palate is fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours. Serve well chilled -- this is a patio superstar.

Moving to the Languedoc in the south of France, we get a different view of the variety. More mineral and floral notes, better acidity and slightly less extraction make these viognier very food friendly.

The Serame Viognier 2004 is another very consistent label. Fresh honey, spicy ginger and chalky, butter apricot aromas draw you into the wine. It is round and dry, but well balanced with floral, citrus, ginger, mineral and fresh guava flavours. Great value, and a wine that can be served with so many foods.

Yalumba makes several viognier but the workhorse is Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2005. The nose is floral with spicy ginger, butter, grapefruit notes. The '05 is slightly leaner than previous editions with ginger, marmalade, floral, buttery, caramel flavours. Solid and under screwcap, it remains fresh.

California has dramatically increased its viognier plantings to some 2000 acres, 10 times what is planted at Condrieu, so eventually the style will have to take its cue from the Golden State.

The Smoking Loon Viognier 2004 from California is the best yet for the Sebastiani group. The nose is a powerhouse of aromas and flavours -- honey, floral, butter, quince, citrus and ginger, but it is soft, round and dry on the palate. It's a bit alcoholic on the finish but with more balance than past editions. Solid value.

The new Bonterra Vineyards Viognier 2004 from Mendocino County should grab the attention of organic wine fans. The nose has all the requisite ripe peach, honey, floral, orange rind and spicy meaty notes. The palate is rich, fresh, and slightly oily with a hint of sweetness mixed with ginger, mineral, honey, buttery, lime rind notes. Very exotic and the price has fallen $3 since the last vintage.

CONO SUR VIOGNIER LIMITED RELEASE 2005,
VALLE DEL COLCHAGUA, CHILE
Price: $10.99
UPC: 7804320405407
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours; a patio superstar.

SERAME VIOGNIER 2004,
LANGUEDOC, SOUTH OF FRANCE
Price: $12.40
UPC: 3258691206646
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Great value and a wine that can be served with almost any foods.

YALUMBA Y SERIES VIOGNIER 2005, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $17.99
UPC: 9311789475974
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Round, fresh, slightly leaner style with ginger, marmalade and floral flavours.

SMOKING LOON VIOGNIER 2004,
CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $16.95
UPC: 017444000749
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Solid value that is getting better every year.

BONTERRA VINEYARDS VIOGNIER 2004, MENDOCINO COUNTY,
CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
Price: $21.99
UPC: 082896740437
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Well made organic viognier.