Value Has No Price Over $25

After inquiring with officials, the minister's response was: "We have fixed prices, so we don't change our prices with the value of the dollar. What we pay for the wine is what the supplier charges to the Liquor Control Board, so it's in the suppliers' hands how quickly they adjust to the change in the Canadian dollar."

Taylor may want to note that this is B.C., not Ontario, and we have a Liquor Distribution Branch while Ontario has a Liquor Control Board. Semantics aside, it seems we can eliminate the government from the equation.

Still it's difficult to fathom how a currency gain such as the one we are experiencing could not produce any significant price change in the face of a colossal 117-per-cent LDB markup applied to the landed value of the wine -- aided by an adjusted-for-liquor, 10-per-cent PST and then, for good measure, six-per-cent GST.

The answer could be, according to distributors and wineries, that most transactions take place in Canadian dollars to avoid the very problems of currency fluctuations. Just to add insult to injury, wineries and distributors claim they have been paying the freight for a low Canadian dollar for the last two decades so we shouldn't complain now.

The truth is the B.C. wine market is on fire, and lower wine prices are just not in the cards. When I asked a local agent why the price of American chardonnay hasn't dropped to reflect the dollar I was told there is no "price" for wine any more. In other words, people charge what they want or what they think the market will bear, and in B.C., consumers are paying up.

I've always thought the B.C. market was extremely savvy when it came to price and quality but maybe we aren't as smart as we think we are. In Ontario consumers buy many of the same wines we do but they often pay two or three dollars less per bottle -- and some are as much as $5 to $10 cheaper. I'm betting their prices are "fixed" too, but in Ontario the fix is in for consumers, not against them.

As if on cue, last week Wine Access magazine released its second annual International Value Wine Awards, featuring wines under $25. Today we look at six top-rated wines you can find in B.C. For complete competition results log on to www.valuewineawards.com. One footnote about the awards: The under-$25 price tag need only occur somewhere in Canada, so it's possible what was $21 in Ontario will be sold in B.C. for, you guessed it, more than $25.

The Best White Blend goes to St. Hallett Poacher's Blend 2006 from Barossa Valley. Poacher's white is a blend of Semillon Sauvignon Sémillon -- Sauvignon Blanc with grassy, canned grapefruit, mineral and floral nose. Fresh, round, zesty palate with grapefruit, honey, mineral, butter flavours with a rind-y, slightly sour finish. Good value.

Best Sangiovese went to the Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2004 from Tuscany. The '04 growing season was much warmer than the cool-ish '03, leading to sangiovese with more structure and backbone to accompany its fine acidity. Look for a beautiful fragrant, floral nose, black cherry fruit and a dollop of milk chocolate underneath. There is a tiny drop of syrah in this wine to add a bit spice in the finish. Very fine.

The Best Chile (red) award was shared by the Trio 2006 Merlot - Carmenère - Cabernet Sauvignon blend not in B.C. yet and the Carmen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. Look for typical minty, bay leaf Maipo aromas with ripe cassis and spicy saddle leather. The entry is supple and round with slightly dry, youthful grainy tannins. There are more intense menthol, smoky cherry, tobacco, black olive flavours. Best with grilled meat entrées.

The Best Chile (white) was awarded to Cono Sur Viognier Limited Release 2006 from Colchagua. Crazy floral, lime, mineral, mango, honey aromas mix with spicy ginger, orange peel, honey and mineral flavours. A solid, fresh style for white meats and seafood. Great value.

Best France went to Chateau Sainte Eulalie La Cantilène 2004 from Minervois. The last vintage was a big IVWA winner too, thanks to its attractive nose of licorice chocolate, pepper, black cherry and spice. The entry is full and round, the tannins gripp-y, with plenty of peppery, meaty, black cherry/licorice and plum-flecked fruit with bits of orange and vanilla. You can drink this Minervois, syrah, grenache and carignan blend or hold it a year or three.

Best California was taken by Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2005 from Sonoma County. Look for a fresh, elegant, delicate entry with green apple, citrus, creamy, baked pear and spicy vanilla flavours. Consistent quality.

Price: $13

UPC: 9316920000329

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh, round, zesty palate with grapefruit, honey, mineral, butter flavours.

ANTINORI PEPPOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2004, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $27 (in B.C. Price is $25 in Ontario)

UPC: 8087550012000

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Ripe black cherry fruit with a dollop of milk chocolate underneath.

CARMEN RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, Valle Del Maipo, Chile

Price: $21.95

UPC: 00083300097512

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Intense menthol, smoky cherry, tobacco, black olive flavours.

CONO SUR VIOGNIER LIMITED RELEASE 2006, Valle Del Colchagua, Chile

Price: $10.88

UPC: 7804320405407

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Spicy ginger, orange peel, honey and mineral flavours.

CHATEAU SAINTE EULALIE LA CANTILÈNE 2004, Minervois, Languedoc, France

Price: $24.99

UPC: 03548602001034

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Attractive, inviting nose of licorice chocolate, pepper, black cherry and spice.

RODNEY STRONG CHARDONNAY 2005, Sonoma County, California

Price: $23

UPC: 087512913257

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Cool style with great finesse and length. Consistent quality and value.