Value-able Wines for the Times

It's a question many consumers are contemplating as the economic recession finally begins to seep into the retail wine business in Canada. If you thought price had little to do with quality on the way up it appears it may even have less to do with it on the way down.

My sense is that cheap wine is rarely great and often not even good, if only because there is a price point at which you cannot go below to make a decent wine. Add to that the massive B.C. alcohol tax and cheap is not a word we toss around much in British Columbia when we talk wine.

That's not to say you can't find great deals in Vancouver. As credit lines tighten up savvy wine buyers can find some interesting buys in government stores. The problem is no one is advertising any deals and the government stores do not hold sales so you pretty much have to stumble on them in the store and you have to know your prices. I'm not sure why customers who are asked to pay through the nose every week of the year are not alerted to sales in what amounts to their own stores but it never happens.

As governments look for stimulus packages to spark an economic recovery, I'm wondering why they do not consider dropping our massive liquor tax by ten or even 15 percent. A significant tax cut along with new recession pricing coming from most wineries could account for a hefty drop in retail wine prices that could incite a jump in sales and revenue.

When you consider restaurants slap on another 100 to 150 per cent in margin on their wine lists the savings would be considerable and the economic boost almost immeasurable. Since its food and wine (restaurants and hotels) that drive the B.C. tourism bus these days some would suggest it is time government took a serious, business approach to alcohol taxation and licensing as opposed to its current, heavy-handed, extract-every-dollar-out-of-the-business-until-you-bring-it-to-its-knees, strategy.

Let's get serious, wine pays for just about everything in the restaurant business and it has completely revitalised major sectors of the Okanagan, Similkameen and the Islands economies. It has raised incomes and property values and stimulated myriad businesses that have grown up around culinary tourism including Vancouver's thriving restaurant business that attracts tourists and locals alike year round.

When you connect all the dots it is wine that is the thread that pulls it all together and yet recession or not, and in good times and bad, the tax on wine never fluctuates in B.C. it simply goes up and stays up.

Today we celebrate good value wine B.C. style, as best we can, given we are paying as much as $5 to $10 more per bottle than we should be.

Neil Empson said he would use a screw cap someday when the world was ready but not before. It must be time. His Bollini Pinot Grigio Trentino 2007 finally has what it always needed - a screwcap - and the results are stunning. The always enticing floral, honey/apple aromas now jump from the glass revealing an undercurrent of minerality. More honey, citrus, earthy notes mark the palate with creamy lees and pear fruit. A delicious, stylish, well balanced white that is ready to drink. Bravo. Veal anyone.

Similarly delicious is the Crios de Susanna Balbo Torrontés 2008 from Salta, Argentina. Highly aromatic this spicy, floral Argentine white is a summer sipping star. The palate is elegant and fresh with spicy, slate, ginger, lychee, nectarine skin flavours. Finish is fresh and juicy with a touch of muscat, lemon zest and bitter ginger. An excellent quality with myriad food possibilities.

A blend of malbec, merlot and cabernet sauvignon is the mix in the Norton Privada 2006 from Mendoza, Argentina. This is rich, dry, warm red wine with vanilla, coffee, blackberry, black cherry, meaty, peppery flavours. A big chunky red designed for steak and a gold medal winner at the 2009 Argentine Wine Awards.

It is hard to believe how well made the Spain's Lujuria 2006 is for $10. The 70/30 blend of monastrell (mourvèdre) and merlot is a mix of coffee, dark chocolate and plummy red fruit with spice and smoke throughout. A good value barbecue red.

Alamos Malbec 2008 is a mix of Mendoza fruit picked at La Consulta, Tupungato, Lunlunta, and Agrelo. It all gets about nine months of ageing in 50/50 French and American oak and the result is a round sweet fruit entry with spicy black fruit flavours with floral, liquorice undertones in the finish. A soft, fleshy, tasty red that will be hit with steak not to mention most consumers.

The newest Old Vines Garnacha de Fuego 2007 continues down the soft, black pepper road with hints of black raspberries and cherry jam. The attack is round and soft with fine persistence and more, peppery, black fruit flavours flecked with liquorice root and tobacco. Slightly fresher and better balanced than the previous edition it should work well with pork, lamb or chicken.

BOLLINI PINOT GRIGIO TRENTINO 2007, VOLANO, TRENTINO- ALTO-ADIGE, ITALY

Price      $18

UPC       00726452000039

Score     89/100

Remarks              Delicious, stylish, well blanced and ready to drink.

CRIOS DE SUSANNA BALBO 2008, SALTA, ARGENTINA

Price      $19

UPC       07798068480300

Score     89/100

Remarks              Spicy, floral, apple, sausage, ginger, lemon oil aromas.

NORTON PRIVADA 2006, LUJÁN DE CUYO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price      $26

UPC       07792319678027

Score     89/100

Remarks              A gold medal winner at the 2009 Argentine Wine Awards.

LUJURIA 2006, YECLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA, SPAIN

Price      $10

UPC       8422445001178

Score     86/100

Remarks              A well made, simple, easy-sipping dry red from Spain.

ALAMOS MALBEC 2008, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price      $17

UPC       707319096037

Score     88/100

Remarks              A soft, fleshy, tasty red that will be hit with steak.

OLD VINES GARNACHA DE FUEGO 2007, CALATAYUD, ARAGON, SPAIN

Price      $16

UPC       08437005068131

Score     87/100

Remarks              Peppery, black fruit flavours flecked with liquorice root and tobacco.