US Court Okays Interstate Wine Shipments - Canada Remains Closed

Supreme Court ruled this week that American consumers may purchase wine direct from out-of-state wineries, striking down laws banning the practice.

The five to four decision strikes down laws in the lucrative New York and Michigan markets that make it a crime to buy wine directly (in effect bypassing the entrenched and expensive three-tier wholesaler, distributor, retailer system) from producers in another state.

"States have broad power to regulate liquor," Justice Anthony Kennedy wrote for the majority. "This power, however, does not allow states to ban, or severely limit, the direct shipment of out-of-state wine while simultaneously authorizing direct shipment by in-state producers."

The decision puts in doubt laws in 24 states that ban out-of-state shipments, although the opinion suggests the laws will be upheld so long as in-state and out-of-state wineries are treated equally. We knew there had to be a catch somewhere and treating wineries equally could be the fly in the ointment.

Here in Canada, where inter-provincial direct wines sales between private retailers and consumers are prohibited, we've been down the equal-treatment road before.

When the Free Trade Agreement and GATT forced the provincial government to refrain from discriminating against imported wine back in the early 1990s, our legislators voted to double the 50-per-cent mark-up on domestic wine rather than decrease the 100-per-cent mark-up on imported wines. The equal tax treatment satisfied international lobbyists but left B.C. with wine prices so out of whack with reality, they are now among the highest in the world.

So expect those American states that currently ban direct shipments of out-of-state wine to consider banning in-state shipments too, thus penalizing consumers and wineries but satisfying the powerful lobby working for the highly-influential liquor wholesalers.

But enough about the high cost of wine. The first major long weekend of the year is upon us and we are featuring six wines that deliver terrific value in a province where liquor taxes make it nearly impossible to make such claims with any regularity.

We begin with two weekend whites from Down Under designed to get you sipping out-of-doors.

Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004 hails from Marlborough, New Zealand. The off-dry white with the now obligatory animal label is the latest Yellow Tail wannabe, although at $16.95 it clearly has a more upscale market in mind. Look for smoky jalapeno, mineral, grapefruit notes mixed with canned asparagus and grassy gooseberry flavours. Chill well and serve liberally as an aperitif.

The Madfish Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004 from Western Australia is a leaner, crisper white with an attractive grapefruit rind, green apple skin, and mineral/floral nose. Expect bright grapefruit/kiwi, gooseberry and green melon flavours with a crisp balanced finished. It should pair well with seafood dishes.

The latest Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon 2003 has arrived. A Sancerre in spirit, if not appellation, this is cutting-edge sauvignon with a strong ocean seaweed, grassy, grapefruit nose and similar mineral, smoky slate, grassy, bell pepper, grapefruit flavours. Fine finesse with a bit of succulence. Try with grilled sole or halibut.
Two more "Sideways" wines -- and possibly the two best value pinot noirs in the market: begin with the just released LinCourt Pinot Noir 2002 from Santa Barbara County. The best LinCourt pinot yet, the '02, fermented in small open-top containers, is absolutely delicious and, for its quality, highly affordable. Cherries earth and truffles disappear into a sweet lush, fruity red with mouth filling textures. Hard to resist.

Its counterpoint is the Kenwood Pinot Noir 2003 from the Russian River Valley. Smoky, vanilla cherry cola and compost notes mix with celery salt, black raspberry, strawberry jam, and spicy vanilla, orange rind flavours. It finishes warm and juicy and is ready to drink. Terrific value.

Finally, if grilling chicken and meat on the barbecue is on your weekend to-do list, pick up some Le Petit Jaboulet. This non-vintage red offers spicy, black raspberry jam aromas with juicy, round, smoked black raspberry and licorice fruit flavours.

Wines for the Long Weekend

Wine  Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Marlborough, New Zealand
Price   $16.95
UPC   082100736300
Score 85/100
Remarks      Fresh off-dry sauvignon with jalapeno and gooseberry flavours.

Wine  Madfish Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2004, Western Australia
Price   $16.99
UPC   9320403000331
Score 89/100
Remarks      Crisp and balanced with nice finesse ― a great seafood wine.

Wine  Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon 2003, Loire, France
Price   $25.95
UPC   3490960007138
Score 88/100
Remarks      Ocean seaweed, grassy, grapefruit and mineral flavours.

Wine  LinCourt Pinot Noir 2002, Santa Barbara County, California
Price   $22.95
UPC   086985001508
Score 91/100
Remarks      Absolutely delicious and highly affordable pinot noir.

Wine  Kenwood Pinot Noir 2003, Russian River, Sonoma County, California
Price   $23.99
UPC   010986002813
Score 89/100
Remarks      Supple fat, easy-drinking pinot full of flavour. Terrific value.

Wine  Le Petit Jaboulet N/V, France
Price   $12.95
UPC   3105719350556
Score 86/100
Remarks      Soft, juicy, black raspberry, smoky barbeque red.