Two-Buck Chuck Equals Ten Loonies in Canada

It would seem no matter how many years go by or what inflationary pressures are brought to bear upon the cost of wine, $10 remains a sacred barrier for the average wine drinker.

The current "two-buck Chuck" rage (and copycats) sweeping U.S. wine shops has B.C. wine drinkers drooling but don't bother waiting for any similar bargains north of the border. The Charles (two-buck Chuck) Shaw Cabernet Sauvignon phenomenon will never happen in Canada because structurally Canadian liquor monopolies don't operate in a manner that allows anything less than a "10-buck" version of the runaway, California best seller.

Chilean wine is a great example of how pricing between Canada and the United States can differ so radically. A lot of inexpensive Chilean wine is sold to Canadian distributors at $24 US per case. I won't bore you with the details but in B.C after taxes the same $2 US per bottle translates to a shelf price of $10.99. By comparison the same wine is sold to distributors in New York for 27.65 US per case or $2.31 a bottle and it ends up on New York retail shelves for $4.99.

That said, there are wines that squeak into government stores for less than $10 a bottle and some that sell for considerably less but the question remains: Are there any worth drinking? Today I managed come up with a half-dozen candidates (or is that victims) that after taxes and bottle deposit set back our expense account $56.31 or $9.38 a bottle. Here's what I found.

Jacques & François Lurton started producing wine in Argentina in 1992 and now have extensive holdings in Mendoza home to the Lurton Mendoza Bonarda 2001. This wine with its deep, red colour and a a consistently good value. The entry is round and soft with fine mid-palate flavours of sour cherries and plums streaked with licorice. There's also fine extract and a medium to long tasty, savoury finish. Anything grilled would be a fit here.

Farnese Sangiovese Daunia has been a runaway best seller for nearly a year in this province, putting to rest any fears that British Columbians are developing a California palate or taste for fruity wine. It has a peppery, roasted earth nose with a touch of prune plum fruit in the background. Round textures with cooked strawberries and plum fruit mix with a gamy/leather aftertaste and a pronounced acidic bite in the finish. Simple, basic old-style southern Italian red.

Finca Los Primos Malbec 2001 takes us back to Mendoza, Argentina with its smoky leather Christmas pudding nose with spicy peppery undertones. This is another wine that is smooth and supple on entry with more black plum fruit and smoky peppery finish. There's a touch of elevated acidity in the finish but its soft textures and round fruit flavours will win over many palates.

Grupo Codorníu, one of Spain's largest wine groups, and a company that made its fortune in sparkling wine, is the name behind Bodegas Nuviana Tinto 2001. This cabernet, merlot, syrah blend has a leafy, cassis, herbal nose with flecks of pepper coffee in the finish. The flavours are similarly cool with coffee, tobacco highlights and firm acidity. There's a touch of mint in the finish but essentially it's dry, round and somewhat acidic. Needs food.

The Grão Vasco 2000 comes out of Portugal's Douro Valley. The nose has a pleasant fragrant aroma with notes of leather and spice and on the palate it is soft and round with an earthy savoury aftertaste. It is a somewhat older, Euro-style red that lacks the fruity character of more modern winemaking techniques but it still has appeal for the price.

Corbières in the Languedoc region of southern France is home to Domaine de la Bastide 2001, a Guilhem Durand wine. It's an equal blend of traditional Languedoc varietals: Grenache, syrah, carignan and merlot fermented in concrete. Look for a raspberry confiture, gamy aromas with hints of jasmine, straw and cooked plum. Fairly dry and round on the palate with cherry plum orange fruit flavours and a touch of five-spice. Elegant, flavourful and fresh.

Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: RED WINES UNDER $10

Wine: Lurton Mendoza Bonarda 2001, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $9.99
UPC: 63533566041
Score: 14/20
Comments: Smoky leathery licorice nose with sour cherries and prunes.

Wine: Farnese Sangiovese Daunia 2002, Moro River Valley, Abruzzo, Italy
Price: $7.95
UPC: 65314911126
Score: 13.5/20
Comments: Peppery roasted earth nose with a touch of prune/plum fruit.

Wine: Finca Los Primos Malbec 2001, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $9.95
UPC: 7790703167195
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Smoky leather Christmas pudding nose with spicy peppery undertones.

Wine: Nuviana Tinto 2001 Huesca, Spain
Price: $7.98
UPC: 841001399382
Score: 12/20
Comments: Leafy cassis herbal peppery nose with flecks of coffee in the finish.

Wine: Grão Vasco 2000 Douro Valley, Portugal
Price: $9.99
UPC: 560107800501
Score: 12.5/20
Comments: Earthy savoury spice and leather -- older style Euro red.

Wine: Domaine de la Bastide (Rouge) 2001 Vin de Pays d'Hauterive, France
Price: $9.85
UPC: 33821000007
Score: 15/20
Comments: Raspberry confiture with hints of jasmine.