Turkey Wines for the Weekend

As the editor-in chief of the magazine and head judge at the competition, I'm delighted to share some of the winners with you this holiday weekend as you take on the annual turkey wine hunt.

Regular readers of this column know by now that turkey wines are not really about the turkey but more about all the other flavours and noise that surround the holiday on which we give thanks for the abundance that marks most of our lives.

In my experience, fruit is your friend, high alcohol is your enemy. Expensive high end wines get lost at most big family dinners, so anything you can do to simplify the wine process (but not the wine) is probably best. And don't forget to plan ahead and take a cab or have a designated driver.

Now to the wines.

Value wines remain front and centre in the minds of consumers. Although, contrary to what some major wine buyers think, it is not always about the cheapest wines. Value occurs at all price levels, and I, for one, wouldn't mind seeing a lot more $20 and $30 and $40 values in local wine shops. We don't need another $10 wine that was never good enough to make it as the No. 1 wine at the winery in the first place.

In the case of turkey, you can't go wrong serving red or white wine. Try to keep the tannin and oak levels in the low to medium-low range for the reds, and make sure the whites have enough fruit to carry the cranberries, stuffing, gravy and, well you name it, because most anything is likely to show up on your dinner plate. You may even want to consider serving just a couple of wines (red and white) throughout the meal. It reduces confusion for most, and it keeps the wine geeks in check. It may even promote more interesting non-wine conversation.

The versatile viognier kicks off our picks, and we begin with at least mentioning the delicious but sold-out Mission Hill 2008 Reserve Viognier that conquered all other viogniers local and foreign in the competitions. The wines to look for this weekend that will easily mesh with your roasted bird are: Yalumba 2008 Eden Valley Viognier, South Australia, $28; Cline Cellars 2009, Sonoma County, California, $19; or the very best value Cono Sur 2009 Viognier, Valle del Colchagua, Chile $11.

Riesling is another variety that can slice through turkey and cleanse the palate, and we had a surprising victory from across the border. The judges cited the elegant styling of Chateau Ste Michelle 2008 Riesling as the key to its success. Expect it to be floral with peachy, ripe red apples flavours and, of course, refreshing acidity. Other Rieslings we liked were: Prospect Winery 2008 Larch Tree Hill Riesling, Okanagan Valley, $13; Mission Hill 2007 Reserve Riesling, Okanagan Valley $19; Devil's Rock 2009 Riesling, Rheinhessen, Germany, $13; and McWilliams 2008 Hanwood Estate Riesling, South Eastern Australia, $17.

One of the most exciting categories was 'White Single Varieties." Names such as moschofilero, grüner veltliner, fiano and assyrtiko may sound strange, but they sure tasted friendly. The big surprise was the interest in Pinot Blanc, and several showed well. The co-winners were Red Rooster Pinot Blanc 2009 with its bright nose of lemon and peach and similar flavours, and the refreshing stylish Boutari Moschofilero 2009 from Greece; both will make your turkey dinner special. Other wines that caught the judges' eye included: Hester Creek 2008 Pinot Blanc, Okanagan, Valley $16; Mission Hill 2009 Five Vineyards Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $14; Calona Vineyards 2009 Sovereign Opal, Okanagan Valley, $14; Laurenz 2009 Singing Grüner Veltliner, Austria, $20; Santa Ana 2009 Reserve Torrontés, Mendoza, Argentina, $15.

Pinot Noir is not only popular but a perfect pairing partner for turkey. Most fruit-forward New World picks will work. If you choose burgundy, stay at the village level and keep it youthful. The IVWA top pick was the Rabbit Ranch Pinot Noir 2007, a solid, uncomplicated Pinot from Central Otago. Other top pinots include: Mount Riley 2009 Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, $25; MacMurray Ranch 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, $25; Yering Station 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, $16.

The malbec category was a dog race. The top pick in this market were the Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2007, with its smooth and glossy textures and typical black cherries, plums and savoury black licorice notes. Other judges' choices" included Bleasdale 2008 Second Innings Malbec, Langhorne Creek, South Australia, $15; Trapiche 2008 Reserve Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, $12; Luigi Bosca 2007 Single Vineyard Reserve Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, $22; Finca Los Primos 2009 Malbec, San Rafael, Mendoza, $11; Trivento 2007 Golden Reserve Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, $20.

The "Red Blends" category was huge this year with some 150 wines mixing all manner of grapes and proportions. The clear winner was the Château de Sérame 2007 Minervois, a delicious blend of 50 per cent mourvèdre, 38 per cent Grenache noir and 12 per cent carignan. Expect it to more than work with turkey. Other top blends included: Château de Moujan 2008 La Clape, Languedoc, France, $15; Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2006 Proprietors' Reserve Meritage, Okanagan Valley, $20; Trivento 2008 Amado Sur, Mendoza, Argentina, $16.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Cono Sur Viognier 2009, Valle del Colchagua, Chile

Price      $11

UPC       7804320405407

Score    87/100

Remarks              Nectarine, honey, grapefruit, ginger, orange aromas and flavours. Crazy value.

Red Rooster Pinot Blanc 2009, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $17

UPC       681246800069

Score    88/100

Remarks              Pear, green apple notes and a nice riff of mineral and a hint of butter.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2008, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States

Price      $15

UPC       088586621840

Score    88/100

Remarks              Off dry and fresh with surprising balance and elegance.

Rabbit Ranch Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago, New Zealand

Price      $25

UPC       09421019900036

Score    89/100

Remarks              Good solid, uncomplicated pinot fruit from Central Otago.

Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2007, San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina

Price      $19

UPC       7790703167645

Score    89/100

Remarks              A true bargain at $18.

Chateau de Serame Minervois 2006, Languedoc, France

Price      $26.00

UPC       003258691335377

Score    89/100

Remarks              Rich, round, supple, full but elegant palate.