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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, October 6 2012

Last week the provincial government rolled over and gave the B.C.

Turkey Decisions

Government and Service Employees' Union everything they wanted, including a four per cent wage increase and a promise to kill plans to privatize the Liquor Distribution Branch.

 

According to this paper, Premier Christy Clark said the government agreed to scrap the privatization of the distribution side of the BC Liquor Distribution Branch in order to reach a deal without adding to its deficit or cutting services. Meanwhile union president Darryl Walker said cancellation of the sale of Liquor Distribution Branch warehouses is "the third time in 20-odd years that we've managed to stop the privatization and we think it's the right thing to do. We think it's got huge upsides now."

 

How many more upsides could we possibly suffer through? Government stores currently do not offer online shopping or home shipping and most of them are closed on Sundays. The shelves are full of not so cheap, big brands and most B.C. wineries avoid government store listings like the plague. I don't know about you but the BCGEU's definition of upsides is not the same as the one used by us working people who enjoy a glass of wine.

 

Clark and Walker should know that the province's wine-sipping working people will all breathe easier with the knowledge that getting a new wine from anywhere in the world to a BC Liquor Store and on to local restaurants will continue to take six to eight months instead of six to eight days the free world does it in, and that it will still only happen if a government buyer decides we should be allowed to drink it.

 

At this point I don't think anybody cares if the BCLDB stays or goes; all we really want is some service and selection for our 123 per cent markup. It goes without saying there are some excellent people working in government stores but it's hardly cutting-edge retail. Walker and his members have managed to keep the team together but, seriously, isn't about time they got into the game?

 

Speaking of game and other foods, Thanksgiving weekend is upon us and that means the annual wine dilemma of which wines should I pair with my turkey, not to mention ham, lamb or possibly roast beef. In my experience when it comes to the big bird fruit is your friend and high alcohol is your enemy. Expensive wines get lost at most big family dinners so anything you can do to simplify the wine process (but not the wine) is probably best.

 

In the case of turkey you can't go wrong serving red or white wine. Try to keep the tannin and oak levels in the low to medium low range for the reds and make sure the whites have enough fruit to carry the cranberries, stuffing, gravy and, well, you name it, because most anything is likely to show up on your dinner plate.

 

This year you may want to consider serving just a couple of wines (red and white) throughout the meal. It reduces confusion for most and it keeps the wine geeks in check throughout the dinner. It may even promote more interesting conversation. After that simply enjoy the day and don't forget to plan ahead and take a cab or have a designated driver and make it home responsibly and safely.


 

Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley 2010, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia

Price: $28

Score: 90/100

UPC: 009311789079745

Typically perfumed on the nose with a pronounced scent of apricots mixed with delicate floral notes, this viognier was made for turkey. The attack is rich and intense with more apricot, mango, ginger wet stone and citrus notes throughout. Slippery, subtle, stylish viognier that will turn your head. Good value.

 

Hardys Stamp Series Riesling -- Gewurztraminer 2011, South Eastern Australia

Price: $10.50

Score: 87/100

UPC: 9311043006791

Aromatic white wines can be the ticket for holiday turkey gatherings and this edition from Oz hits all the right notes. The nose is spicy with floral, red apple and peach notes. The attack is just off-dry to cool down spicy dishes with bits of lemon and lime rind, apricot skin with lemon meringue and a hint of petrol in the finish. A fun white you can serve solo or with appetizers and or spicy dishes.

 

Cono Sur Visión Pinot Noir 2010, Valle del Colchagua, Chile

Price: $18

Score: 89/100

UPC: 7804320056227

Lovely ripe plum, cherry jam, spicy, floral nose with bits of tobacco, dried orange peel and smoky, rhubarb aromas. The attack is suave with fine concentration and fresh acidity and more wild plum, strawberry jam and smoky, vanilla flavours. Just the right weight and texture to survive the bird and work with the trimmings of Thanksgiving. Good value.

 

Matchbook Syrah 2009, Dunnigan Hills, Yolo County, California, United States

Price: $18

Score: 88/100

UPC: 859551001017

Long story short, John Giguiere once lit a wheat field on fire hence the Matchbook name. The syrah is aged in an assorted mix of oak from France, Hungary and America for 26 months but only 22 per cent is new. There is nine per cent Sonoma cabernet sauvignon in the mix to add some structure to the rich blustery syrah fruit with its mocha, blueberry, and spiced fruit flavours. Soft and ready to drink with stuffed turkey.

 

The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2009, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price: $40

Score: 89/100

UPC: 009315705004606

The Holy Trinity 46/31/23 blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre is reminiscent of the great reds of the southern Rhone. Another drought year reduced yield, although the 50 to 120-year old vines seem to manage the stress well. Raspberries and black cherries mark the nose of this rich red with cedar, pepper, liquorice and black raspberry fruit. It is a 'B' for Barossa red, made for rich meat and bird dishes.

 

Sette Ponti Crognolo 2008, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $35

Score: 90/100

UPC: 8033011200628

A delicious and affordable super-Tuscan blend of 80/10/10 sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon grown on clay over limestone. Crognolo, named after the Cornus bush that grows on the property, is aged for 12 to 18 months in French Allier barriques and 6 months in bottle before release. A cool year has produced an aromatic thread in this mineral, cool, red fruit-flavoured wine with earthy undertones and fine-grained tannins. You can cellar this for five years or serve it now with turkey or rich, warm, fall and winter stews and roasts.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.