Treking in Chile

The competition is stiff and the marketing is ferocious for New World varietal wine and clearly, for the moment, Australia is winning that battle hands down.

The diversity of wines Chile has to offer is not reflected in the homogenized selection available in government stores. The monopoly hitched itself to the big wineries long ago and, over time, the big boys have effectively grown their shelf space, eliminating anything new or interesting that could pose a threat to their market share.

That leaves us with a category of well-known brands but not much else. Without new, exciting wines to attract consumers, the category slowly but surely stagnates until even the big brands can't save it.

I recently spent a week touring Chile's newest, highest-altitude vineyards that are situated closest to the coast. With few exceptions, the best wines I tasted are not available in B.C., nor are they likely to be anytime soon.

It's a crucial issue for anyone who cares about wine, be they producers or drinkers. New wines create excitement, they stimulate conversation, they drive restaurant wine lists. And the qualities of those restaurant wine lists attract tourists and those tourists spend money.

As incredible as it may seem, the foundation for B.C.'s newfound reputation for food and wine began with a small cadre of passionate wine enthusiasts and chefs who were better served in the 1980s and 1990s than they are today.

Now, there's nothing wrong with today's picks; but, like the Canucks, once you get by the first line of labels there isn't much else worth celebrating.

The Cono Sur Viognier 2002 continues to impress for the price. You will love its spicy, mineral, floral nose with streaks of citrus blossom and honey throughout. It's fresh, crisp and round on entry, with more honey, mineral, baked pear flavours on the palate and a strong mineral, citrus finish. Plenty of intensity and as versatile a food wine as you can find. This is a steal.

The Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2003 with its open mineral, passion fruit and green apple/melon nose is very New Zealand-like. On the palate it's dry, tight and lean with bright acidity and fine balance. Lemon, green apple, green kiwi flavours with a strong mineral and light bell pepper notes mark the finish. Mussels and clams are the ticket here.

Is the Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2003 the most affordable, well made chardonnay in the market? I think so. Look for melon, pear and apple aromas with a touch of honey and lees and a super fresh entry. On the palate you will find plenty of green apple, citrus, honey, baked pear flavours with a touch of vanilla butter and pineapple on the finish. Fine fruit and balance at a great price. Drink all summer with any seafood.

It's been a while since we've tasted the wines of Undurraga and we like what we see in the Undurraga Merlot 2003 out of the Colchagua Valley. It has an attractive saddle leather, gamey, cherry aroma streaked with vanilla and pepper. The entry is soft round and supple with smooth textures, the flavours a mix of smoky vanilla, cherry, mint and chocolate with fresh acidity on the finish. This is a well balanced red from front to back. Perfect for grilled flank steak or chicken.

Many will like the sappy black cherry and mint aromas of the San Pedro Castillo de Molina Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. The style is rich but with herbal/minty/cassis fruit and coffee mocha flavours. It has a warm full-flavoured but dry finish. A typical Chilean cabernet.

Escudo Rojo 2002 is the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild's Maipo red. It's a 60/10/25/5 Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, carmenere and merlot. Expect cassis and mint notes upfront with smoky, tobacco aromas and a soft, round, supple entry. The tannins are dry and light. On the palate there are more spice, mint, cassis, vanilla, leather and olive flavours with a touch of cedar and tobacco. Grilled steak will tame this perfectly.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Chile
 
Wine Cono Sur Viognier 2002, Valle del Colchagua, Curicó
Price $10.99
UPC 780432050407
Score 14.5/20
Remarks  Honey, mineral, and citrus rind and baked pear flavours.

Wine Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Valle de Casablanca, Aconcagua
Price $12.37
UPC 089046777329
Score 14/20
Remarks Lemons, green apples and green kiwi fruit flavours.

Wine Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2003, Valle de Casablanca, Aconcagua
Price $11.95
UPC 7804320256900
Score 15.5/20
Remarks The most affordable, high quality chardonnay in the market.

Wine Undurraga Merlot 2003, Valle del Colchagua, Curicó
Price $12.99
UPC 7804315030027
Score 14/20
Remarks Smoky vanilla, cherry, mint and chocolate flavours.

Wine Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001, Valle del Maipo
Price $17.55
UPC 78043000106145
Score 15/20
Remarks Black cherry and mint aromas mixed with currant and chocolate.

Wine Escudo Rojo 2002, Valle del Maipo
Price $24.95
UPC 812485000013
Score 15.5/20
Remarks Dry elegant minty Chile red wine.