Tormaresca Antinori's Ode to the South

Now, after almost a decade of hard work, the results of the Tormaresca initiative are beginning to arrive in Canada.

Viticulture is nothing new to Puglia where vines have been in the ground since the 8th century, when the region was known as Magna Grecia or Greater Greece. Later, throughout the expansion of the Roman Empire, Puglia remained an important centre for the production of grain and oil, and was a mandatory gateway for all commerce between Rome and the Orient along the Appian Way and the port of Brindisi. That type of traffic ensured a long and mostly healthy wine industry.

I say mostly healthy because, despite the charm of Southern Italy's people and landscape, most of the wine, until recently, wasn't ready for primetime consumption in our market. Today, Antinori, and about a half dozen other producers, are working hard to polish the image of Puglia and its native grapes. My sense is that the renovation is well underway and anyone looking for honest, affordable red wines, which make simple meals better, will be pleased with the progress.

At Tormaresca, Antinori has taken modern Tuscan know-how and has paired it with the ancient native varieties of Puglia. So far the results are remarkable. They have revamped some large tracts of vineyard land and are currently putting the finishing touches on a new winery that will place Tormaresca at the forefront of southern Italian wine -- all under the ever watchful eye of Antinori's chief winemaker Renzo Cotarella.

During a recent tour of Italy's southern Adriatic coast, I came to know the Tormaresca project and the negroamaro, primitivo and nero d'Avola grapes much better. Since my visit, most of the new wines have arrived in British Columbia and are reviewed here today.

We begin our tasting with Tormaresca Chardonnay 2005, a wine that blends fruit from both key Tormaresca estates: Bocca di Lupo in Murgia, and Masseria Maime in Salento. It's partially barrel fermented which accounts for its buttery peach aromas and flavours, but you can also taste the minerals and the nearby sea influence on the nose and palate. A soft, fresh, ripe apple/citrus chardonnay with an elegant demeanour that reflects its European origins in flavour and style. Try with sole or other light, simply prepared fish dishes.

The Tormaresca Paiara Rose 2005, a blend of negroamaro and cabernet, is a dry, nervous version designed for food. It's perfect for appetizers and there is little or no sweet fruit to mess up the food. Crisp and lip smacking, it should pair up well with crab cakes or lobster.

Paiara Rosso 2003 is an impressive a blend of mostly negroamaro with some cabernet sauvignon for backbone. It takes its name from the igloo-shaped, thatched roof buildings that vineyard workers used to escape the hot, noon-day Mediterranean sun. The style is warm, round, fat and supple with some light, chewy tannin. Smoky, cherry jam, cooked cassis and spicy flavours mark the palate. There is fine value here and it's a versatile wine you can serve with cold chicken or grilled meats.

Tormaresca Neprica 2004 is a clever blend of negroamaro, primitivo and cabernet sauvignon (the first two or three letters of each grape make up the moniker Neprica) and captures the warm, almost tropical essence of southern Italy. Chocolate, licorice and black fruit with flecks of mineral and anise make this a perfect introduction to the New South wrapped in an earthy, inviting style. A solid performer you can serve with spaghetti Bolognese, grilled sausages and flank steak.

After the vineyard reorganization, the Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo 2003 vines average some 15 years. The nose of this primitivo is slightly feral with peppery plum fruits and a wisp of almonds. The entry is rich; the tannins are smooth and chalky. On the palate the flavours are a mix of wild game (Salento), ripe, blackberry jam with licorice and vanilla. Big blockbuster-style red that spends just over a year in oak barrels.

Tormaresca Masseria Maime 2003 is an estate selection of negroamaro that is aged 14 months in barriques and another 10 months in bottles before release. We love the spicy, black fruit nose with the smoked meat and almond undercurrents. It is rich and weighty on the palate with concentrated, black cherry and plum pudding flavours. Lovely spice and finesse in the finish. Drink now or hold for three to five years.

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TORMARESCA CHARDONNAY 2005, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $14.99
UPC: 8026530000015
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh, ripe apple/citrus chardonnay with an elegant demeanour.

TORMARESCA PAIARA ROSE 2005, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $10.99
UPC: 8026530000350
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Crisp, lip- smacking rose that's perfect for crab cakes.

PAIARA ROSSO 2003, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $10.99
UPC: 8026530000336
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Great value negroamaro and cabernet sauvignon from Puglia.

TORMARESCA NEPRICA 2004, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $14.99
UPC: 08026530000039
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Try with spaghetti Bolognese, grilled sausages or flank steak.

TORMARESCA TORCICODA PRIMITIVO 2003, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $27.99
UPC: 08026530000176
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Wild game, black berry jam with licorice and vanilla.

TORMARESCA MASSERIA MAIME 2003, SALENTO, PUGLIA, ITALY
Price: $37.99
UPC: 08026530000152
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Big, rich, weighty red with finesse.