Tomassi Valpolicella Is A Family Affair

Many European Union suppliers have been asking for more loonies this spring from Canadian agents to reflect the strength of the rising Euro, leading me to think that whatever recovery the Old World may have been rekindling on local store shelves may come to an abrupt halt this spring.

But before that happens, permit me to suggest the wines founded by Giacomo Tommasi who planted his family's first vines 101 years ago at Pedemonte in the heart of the historic Valpolicella Classico region, northwest of the city of Verona.

Today his grandchildren, (brothers, Sergio, Ezio, Franco and Dario, and their families) tend more than 250 acres of hillside vineyard in the Lessini Mountains.

The family produces a wide range of traditional and a few not so traditional wines.

Among the traditional Tommasi labels are Amarone Classico, Valpolicella Classico, Recioto della Valpolicella, all of which blend local varieties of corvina Veronese, rondinella and molinara.

Less traditional is the varietal Garda merlot and or the ripasso-style Valpolicella which frankly surprised me with its voluptuous fruit.

The winery also releases a handful of white wines made from designated vineyards at Soave, Lugana, Bardolino (near Lake Garda), Custoza and further north at Valdadige. Here are my notes:

The Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2001 is grown in the Valle dell'Adige from 25-year old vines that sit some 1,400 feet above sea level -- at the northern edge of the province of Verona.

Pinot grigio, or gris as we call it in B.C., may be made from the same grape in Italy but it's not the same wine we know in the Pacific Northwest. More acidity, more spice and more mineral mark this Italian version that is lean clean, crisp and food friendly. Le Rosse would be perfect with pre-dinner crostinis or alongside numerous shellfish dishes. It's ready to drink.

Merlot Le Prunée 2000 is the Tommasi family's ode to innovation. In the heart of Valpolicella they have planted a vineyard composed entirely of merlot. The name Le Prunée, arises from the close planting and severe pruning that take place in the vineyard and results in vines whose yield (or bunches of grapes) are low and normally fairly rich.

Expect a deep colour and a fairly intense, earthy, resiny, barnyard and peppery fruit nose. There are soft merlot textures on entry followed by dry, smoked cherry flavours with more pepper and spice in the finish. The classic Italian styling makes it a wine that demands food. Grilled sausages or an osso buco-style dish would be perfect here.

The Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000 has a smoky tobacco, prune/plum, earth and truffle aromas. The textures are soft, round, and well, Valpolicella-like with spicy, earthy, compost and smoked prune flavours. Simple but elegant and another ready-to-drink red. Think of this as a reliable, casual spaghetti red.

Break out your wallet and spring for a bottle of Ripasso Valpolicella 1998. This 70/20/10 blend of corvina/rondinella/molinara grapes is made by re-fermenting (ripasso) Tommasi Valpolicella Classico on the warm grape skins from which the Tommasi Amarone (reviewed below) has just been pressed. Used only in the best years, the process enriches the Valpolicella making it an extraordinary experience.

The fruit is exuberant and dark with blueberry-like flavours flecked with spicy baked apples. Rich, round, long but not too alcoholic, this is a wine you can easily enjoy with strong cheeses and big dinner entrées or that will cellar for a decade or more. Excellent quality.

The Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998 is simply bigger. Its ripe cherry, plum jam and almond aromas are streaked with spicy sausage, tobacco and sweaty leather undertones. It's already quite soft and supple with only a few light, dry tannins in the finish. I like the cherry, strawberry jam fruit flavours and the spicy, tobacco, prune nuances. You can drink it now but it should improve during the next few years.

TOMMASI - VITICOLTORI

PEDEMONTE, VERONA, ITALY

Wine: Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2001, Valdadige

Price: $17.95

UPC: 8004645365106

Score: 14/20

Comments: Clean, mineral, spicy food-friendly.

Wine: Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000

Price: $15.95

UPC: 8004645304105

Score: 14/20

Comments: Spicy, earthy, compost and prune fruit flavours.

Wine: Tommasi Merlot Le Prunée 2000, Garda

Price: $17.95

UPC: 8004645366103

Score: 15/20

Comments: Dried, smoked cherry, spicy flavours.

Wine: Ripasso Valpolicella 1998

Price: $28.95

UPC: 8004645365102

Score: 16.5/20

Comments: Exuberant, dark fruit and savoury flavours.

Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998

Price: $47.95

UPC: 8004645402108

Score: 17/20

Comments: Plum jam, almonds and tobacco with power.