To Vancouver From Out of Africa

Post-apartheid South African wines have struggled in British Columbia for many reasons, most of which revolved around the quality they came back to the market with, but those early days are now well behind Cape producers.

The new South Africa has a much broader understanding of what it is going to take to make it in North America, especially in wine-savvy markets like Vancouver.

As it stands, the South African wine category is sporting a 25.9-per-cent increase in sales with a 12-month rolling total approaching some $10.6 million. Just less than 70 per cent, or $7 million, of those sales involve red wine.

At 1.7 per cent of market share, South Africa is not about to frighten any of its competitors, but the category is trending upward and, as the listings expand, they should be able to carve out a niche in the market. As a consumer, you can't ask for much more.

The festival and the theme-country designation should stimulate more interest and my sources tell me you can expect to see a number of new listings of South African wines in the months to come.

In my estimation, the wines to look for are the sauvignon or shiraz-based labels. That's not to say South Africa's top wine producers aren't worth investigating, it's just unlikely any of them will bother trying to enter into the cumbersome listing process for government-run stores when they can sell most of their wine with one phone call to a private retailer in London, New York or Calgary.

Today's picks are on the shelves around B.C. and are but a glimpse of the new South Africa category.

The Graham Beck Brut bubbly, a South African Cap Classique, is made at the winery's Robertson facility. Look for a fine continuous bubble bead and a bright, clean, floral, citrus nose streaked nose with pear, honey and biscuit flavours. This 100-per-cent chardonnay is crisp and dry on entry with fine citrus, green apple, honey nut and baked apple flavours. An impressive 48-month aging before release makes this a hip, creamy, complex sparkler that would look good on any occasion.

With spring around the corner it will soon be rose time, and at $7.99, it's tough to ignore the Blouberg Rose. Blouberg takes its name from the blue-tinged mountains of the Cape and it's meant to be an easy-drinking quaffer fashioned in the Vinho Verde style. Look for deep pink raspberry colour and a mineral, cherry, spicy, apple scent, in a round and soft style with cherry, mineral, citrus, bell pepper flavours. It's fresh and balanced but fairly sweet on entry and finish. The blend is an oddball mix of sauvignon blanc, Cape riesling, semillon, merlot and pinotage.

Honey, canned peach and spicy nut aromas are behind the De Wetshof Lesca Chardonnay 2003. It's dry, round, slightly tight with buttery, mineral, smoky, honey, citrus rind and green apple flavours. Crisp and flavourful, if a bit light in mid-palate concentration. A solid wine for more than a decade, and it's only getting to Canada now.

Perhaps the most celebrated Cape labels are the whimsical Goat wines that reference in style and taste the Cotes wines of the Rhone. Fairview Goat - Roti is such a blend -- it mixes shiraz, grenache, carignan and viognier, grown in different areas of the Western Cape. Look for spicy, gamey, blackberry, licorice aromas with a bit of chocolate and vanilla. It's ripe and supple with light tannins, but quite warm with intense coffee vanilla, pruney, spicy, orange peel, blackberry jam flavours. It has intensity and freshness, but it is a bit alcoholic on the finish.

The Beyerskloof Pinotage 2003 hails from Stellenbosch and represents the national varietal wine in our tasting. Look for a polished nose of smoke, saddle leather, licorice root, black cherry jam and floral, gamey notes. The flavours are a mix of sour cherry, black plum, licorice, cigar and smoky cedar. It has fine fruit flavours, if a bit dry and acidic on the finish. Good for ostrich steak or lamb.

If you are a cabernet fan, you may want to check out the Stark Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, also from Stellenbosch. The nose is a mix of dill, black olive and smoky cedar aromas. On the palate it is dry and supple with smoky, leather, minty cassis, cedar chocolate flavours. Some elegance and finesse, but a touch dry and light.

Weekend Wine Tasting: South Africa

Wine Graham Beck Brut, Robertson, Breede River Valley

Price  $24.99

UPC   6004867000030

Score 88/100

Remarks    Citrus, green apple, honey nut and baked apple flavours.

Wine Blouberg Rose

Price $7.99

UPC 083206000708

Score 84/100

Remarks    An easy-drinking quaffer fashioned in the Vinho Verde style.

Wine De Wetshof Lesca Chardonnay 2003, Robertson, Breede River Valley

Price  $25.99

UPC   6004635000224

Score 88/100

Remarks    Mineral, smoky, honey, citrus rind and green apple flavours.

Wine Fairview Goat - Roti 2003, Western Cape

Price  $23.99

UPC   6002291000794

Score 88/100

Remarks    Spicy, gamey, blackberry, licorice aromas with a bit of chocolate and vanilla.

Wine Beyerskloof Pinotage 2003, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region

Price  $16.99

UPC   896366000040

Score 86/100

Remarks    Sour cherries, black plum, licorice, cigar, smoky cedar.

Wine Stark Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region

Price  $29.99

UPC   6009669350024

Score 87/100

Remarks    Round, elegant cabernet with cassis cedar chocolate.