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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

"Think pink" is now the summer mantra in North America.

One could argue the "back to pink" movement is now a couple of years old, but change takes time.

If you're not sure what the new pink wine is, think blush with some guts. In the "good old days" (I can see my kids' eyes rolling upwards), wine similar in colour to the eye of the partridge was called rose. But it seems rose is now passe with the young crowd, which is why it's best to "think pink."

Eventually, even the most serious wine drinker will turn to pink if the conditions are right. For me, it happened in the south of Spain. The temperature was in the high 30s. There was a warm wind blowing in from the Mediterranean, the tapas were tiny and perfect and the pink wine was cold. Magic.

Back home, the endless cold fronts dampening most springs and early summers on the coast tend to suppress the urge to drink pink. Super-sweet blush wines and most white zinfandels gave good reason to avoid pink, but what goes around comes around.

Pink wines are back in vogue and tasting better than ever, especially given the hot, dry weather that seems to come earlier and stay longer whether you live in the Lower Mainland, the Sunshine Coast, the Okanagan or on Vancouver Island.

For the record, there are few places rose is made by blending red and white wines -- at least legally. Most pink wine begins life like a red, as crushed black grapes fermenting on their skins. After a few hours, the skins are removed and fermentation continues a la white wine making. The result is delicate pink wine with just enough flavour and tannin to stand up to a wide array of al fresco summer bites. And when pink is right, it is magic.

Today we offer six to get you started. For best results, just add sunshine and a picnic basket.

The Blouberg Rose is an unusual blend of South African sauvignon blanc, cape riesling, semillon, merlot and pinotage. It takes its name from the blue-tinged mountains of the Cape. It's meant to be an easy-drinking pink fashioned in the Portuguese Vinho Verde style. The colour is deep raspberry; the nose mixes mineral, cherry and spiced apple; cherry, mineral, citrus and bell pepper accent the flavour. A fun patio sipper with some residual sugar.

If you haven't tasted Mateus Rose recently, you're in for a pleasant surprise. The colour is an attractive light raspberry red. With a mix of mineral, earthy, cherry, slightly floral notes on the nose, it's refreshingly drier than the old version with some spritz, and earthy, light cherry, citrus, mineral apple flavours. A very sound, affordable summer rose. For the record, the blend of grapes is baga, bastardo, touriga nacional, tinta roriz and tinta pinheira.

The success of the dry red Castano Monastrell has spawned a rose from this Spanish producer that hits the mark. Castano Monastrell Rose 2003 has a cherry, berry, spicy, mineral aroma with a touch of game and earth. Look for fresh black cherry, licorice, spicy, mineral and citrus flavours with a touch of raspberry. Great value and a versatile picnic party drink. Try with chilled salmon and potato salad.

From France and the southern Rhone region of Tavel comes Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2003. This classy blend of grenache noir, cinsault, clairette, syrah and grenache blanc has a citrus rind, candied cherry, mineral, pine, floral, taffy apple aromas. Dry, round and quite rich with nice cherry, mineral, buttery, ripe apple, citrus flavours with a hint of sweetness and almonds. Good balance and lots of flavour.

From nearby Costieres de Nimes is Chateau Silex Eloge Rose 2003. This time, the blend is syrah, grenache and cinsault and the nose cherry, strawberry, citrus and mineral with a nutty, clove streak. It has a ripe, round, fresh palate with lots of citrus, strawberry, mineral, straw and berry jam flavours. Nice acidity and freshness with a just a bit of sweetness. Very solid, juicy rose for the summer. Good value.

The Nekeas Rose Cabernet Sauvignon - Grenache 2002 hails from Navarra, Spain. As mentioned a couple of weeks ago, this wine delivers with intense cherry, raspberry jam nose with some almond and spicy, earthy notes -- very fresh. It is rich, round and fresh on the palate with just the right amount of sweetness and lots of strawberry jam and peppery maraschino fruit flavours in the aftertaste. Good acidity keeps it fresh. It's a rockin' rose that is perfect for lunch or summer picnics.


WEEKEND WINE TASTING

Think Pink - Rose

Wine: Blouberg Rose N/V, South Africa
Price: $7.99
UPC: 083206000708
Score: 84/100
Comments: Fresh and balanced with a sweet-ish entry and finish.

Wine: Mateus Rose N/V, Portugal
Price: $9.49
UPC: 5601012011500
Score: 86/100
Comments: Very sound, affordable summer rose.

Wine: Castano Monastrell Rose 2003, Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
Price: $11.95
UPC: 8422443001277
Score: 87/100
Comments: Great value, picnic wine for chilled salmon.

Wine: Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2003, Tavel, Rhone Valley, France
Price: $22.99
UPC: 785255000028
Score: 87/100
Comments: Cherry, mineral, ripe apple, citrus flavours.

Wine: Chateau Silex Eloge Rose 2003, Costieres de Nimes, France
Price: $16.95
UPC: 3395942408616
Score: 87/100
Comments: Very solid, juicy rose for the summer. Good value.

Wine: Nekeas Rose Cabernet Sauvignon - Grenache 2002, Navarra, Spain
Price: $12.65
UPC: 617835005218
Score: 87/100
Comments: Rich, round and fresh on the palate with just the right amount of sweetness.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.